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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Now is that rail blue or this "other" shade that only seems to show in pictures

 

i've seen a few pics of units in 'early' blue like this and it seems it was a matt finish rail blue - possibly due to new spraying techniques? just wondering if this finish wasn't as durable, being superceded by 'normal' rail blue. looks the same type of finish as was applied to new VEPs?

units in this matt blue also seem to have the small arrows and numbers.

 

whatever livery you choose brian, i'm sure it'll be up to your usual standard - i hesitate to use the word 'models' as they are so realistic.

 

cracking stuff!

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Sean, glad you managed to last the distance :blink:

 

Has anyone tried to "guess" this darker shade of BR Blue on a model Keefer?

 

Andy, should have it running at the Bourne End session after crimble if you want a closer look.

 

I have now ordered a set of bogie footsteps and speedo from Westdale so just waiting now for these bits and the corridor connections to finish it.

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sorry it's taken me to get back to this, brian

 

AFAIK it's standard rail blue, just with a matt/semi-matt finish. i think where it looks darker, it may be simply due to the particular print/slide emulsion used? i'm sure i've read somewhere that the fact there's no yellow ends (hence more blue) can make the blue seem 'strange'. also, the way a matt finish reflects the light may have an effect on colour perception?

 

was looking through the old RMWeb tonight and stumbled upon dibber25's 'DMU archive pics' thread:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21330

 

there's another pic of an all-blue 128 (as well as david's pic shown above!)

 

hope this helps

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I am still not convinced that blue is bog standard BR Blue. To make a model look like that I would think you would have to change the blue by darkening it or something :unknw_mini: Anyway this one I am doing is good old Banger Blue.

 

I have recieved to cab steps and speedo from Westdale and the corridor connections from CPL. Have done one end so far. The instructions are a bit vauge but I think it looks right, certainly better than the ones supplied. The concertina bit on them is made using black paper. I have done one side to see what it looks like as being paper it will have to go on after it's cleaned and painted. Need to sort a top bit out as well later. Still waiting for some buffers to finish the chassis off though. The windscreen wipers were from a DJH kit but they are for a wider windscreen than this. I tried to re-bend them but the left hand one here won't play ball :(

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128 is on the back burner as I can't do any spraying in this weather so now I have a Heljan 33 I am working on that.

 

First job is to narrow the tanks underneath. I don't know why but all Heljan 7mm loco's are too wide down here. I have removed about 1-1.5mm each side. I have also moved the coil springs in on the bogies (bottom pic shows before and after). I am changing the air pipes on the bufferbeams at the moment and then I will paint the pipes and MU/ETH orange. Still can't make my mind up yet what to number it :blink:

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Hi Brian,

 

That will look much better with the main springs set back more, funny how although there is the room Heljan tend to "flatten" the look of thier bogie sides.....maybe they make up for it by widening the tanks? :lol:

 

Anyhoo.....for everyone following Brian's diesel thread.....Merry Christmas folks....and take abreak Christmas evening from the modelling Brian, we'll wait :D

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Finally decided on 33015 for this loco. Just about done apart from another coat or two of cream on the roof. I have painted the buffer shanks silver to improve them. Whilst on the subject of buffers they do not work very well as bought so I carefully drilled them out a bit deeper with a 3mm drill by hand, working perfectly now. A picture attached to show the narrower tanks. Before I screw the body back on I think I will disconect the red tail lights which are the 2 lower lights on the front but these were seldom if ever used instead using the red blinds. Whilst I had the sideframes off I painted the wheel faces Frame Dirt ready for the weathering later.

 

I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a happy modelling New Year :drink_mini:

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I have just removed the wire that works the red tail lights. If anyone else wants to turn theirs off it's the little black wires that need removing from the terminal.

 

I have also made some new headcodes on the computer and found out that to remove the headcodes you need to take out the cab interior and push the old headcode and glazing out. The headcodes are paper stuck on the rear of the glazing. When putting a new headcode in I am sure the glazing is handed so try to keep the oriantation of it correct and just push it back in. Replace the cab interior and bobs your relative :)

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I have just removed the wire that works the red tail lights. If anyone else wants to turn theirs off it's the little black wires that need removing from the terminal.

 

Be careful. One of my little black wires was red. The PCB is marked with which wires go where, so it's best to check that first.

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I know it's Christmas day but I got bord so I smoothed down the mould lines on the cabs and then weathered it. Looks ok to me. Mind you the 33's did not get very dirty in the good old days, you could eat your dinner off the engine block of the EH ones. When I changed the headcodes I put FC in one end and 2 blank whites in the other. To me a crompton says fuel tanks and parcel trains down here in Oxford hence the FC, tanks to Brum headcode.

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Merry Christmas Brian,

 

The Crompton looks superb, glad you decided on an EH loco.:D

 

I did the fuel tank and bogie mod on my 4mm Heljan locos, it seems Heljan like the wide fuel tanks their 7mm 47 is the same.

 

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi PCM, I don't know what goes on with the Danes and their wide tanks either. I have narrowed my 7mm 37, 47, and now 33. Will have to try and get through to them when they do the 31 to narrow it down a bit.

 

Attached a couple of pictures of the insides Tim, showing the PCB board. It does say in the enclosed instruction sheet to just swap over the board with the sound chip so I assume that it will be a straight swap. I don't think I will be putting sound in this as I do most of my running on DC layouts to be honest.

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That new configeration of board Heljan are using looks to be the same dimensions as the Loksound XL, so apart from the scavenger fan plug everything else is a straight swap through the screw terminals, will be interesting to find out if Heljan are still putting resistors attached to the LEDs themselves as well as on the board, or an inline resistor will be needed to each lighting circuit. But at least it means I will not have to make one of my "conversion PCBs" for my 55 and 31 when they become available.

 

No modelling for me today.....wouldn't you know it, Christmas holidays and today my central heating pump decided to sieze up....thank heaven B&Q are open today, oh well at least its cheaper than a sound decoder :lol:

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I think your correct Brian, thats basically the same board as the production 33 except for the graphics, as you say...at last the krone drops, or penny over here :D

 

Pump fitted....just trying to sort out the wiring on the thermostat now, decided to change to a newer more accurate (than the 30 year old original) room thermostat while the system is down, problem is the 30 year old wiring, I think the original plumber was either colour blind or just dumb, the wiring colours no way correspond to the diagram for either the boiler or the stat :(

 

Good news it we have got heat, but it may not turn off :lol:

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I have finaly got round to putting the transfers and then varnishing my 20029 now the weather has warmed up. One thing that surprised me was that it has the large arrow on the bodyside instead of the smaller one that they usualy have there. Will give it a while for the varnish to harden then weather it and put the windows in after the weathering to save me masking them off.

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