m davies Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I've suspected for some while that the models were 3D printed, at least the master and then castings taken and it has always been there (layers) in a very tiny amount, photos do tend to bring the worst out but those battery boxes look slightly worse than the rest of the model, paint will tell the full story though. I like the lagged pipe along the footplate, nice attention to detail there. Best Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Unfortunatly I don't think the paint will hide it now it's in primer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted June 23, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2011 Unfortunatly I don't think the paint will hide it now it's in primer Bummer.....must admit it did look a bit coarse, is it a production kit or a bit of a sneaky "pre" version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 This is a production kit. They had 3 at the ALSRM show at Reading recently. I had one, a friend had one so who has the other? It's got yellow ends and a black underframe now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted June 23, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2011 I like the lagged pipe along the footplate, nice attention to detail there. I've been thinking the same. Brilliant! Just a thin strip of masking tape wound round? Just done my bike handlebar tape and its not as easy as it looks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Well spotted Hal Nail it is indeed some thin masking tape wound round a piece of wire. It represents the hot water pipe that supplies the cab heating hence why it's insulated. Picture of it here Insulated pipe pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Hi Brian, Despite the 'issues' with the kit, you will have a cracking model in the end especially with all the effort that you have put into it. There are similar 'ripples' (although a different process in manufacture me thinks) with the 121/122 which I have filled and sanded - yet will only know for sure when it's painted (or in primer). Kind regards, CME. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Here she is nearly done. I still have to varnish it but I think it's a bit too mellow just at the moment for that. One slight problem with the Fox wasp stripes was that the ones for the cab end are not wide enough! I had to add an extra strip down both sides. I am well pleased with it and can't wait to get it weathered. I just had a nice parcel from JLTRT today with 3 replacement tank barrels for their TTA's so I can get on with those now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Brian, That looks superb and the paint job is just excellent. Is it Railmatch Banger blue?... and may I ask which undercoat paint you used? Cheers Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Brian, great work as usual - thanks for saying about the Precision 'wording' sheet, I ordered same from John for the two Bachmanns that I've just painted - got me out of a hole (again) cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Brian It looks very nice with all of the extra work you have done, it's a shame that not every thing was supplied with the kit. Nice one Brian. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Lee, yes it is Railmatch BR Blue over Halfords grey priner. Mike, any pictures of the Bachmann 08's? Well Pete it is a shame that I had to get a bit extra for it. Be interesting to see whether it shows though next to a bog standard one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted June 27, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2011 Needs a gloss coat of "out of shop" but no doubt you will bypass that and get straight onto "clean that, no chance!" weathering How does the new branchlines gearbox and motor run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Gloss varnish? Noooooooooooooooooooooo As you say it will be a nice, not over the top weathering, well here's hoping! I can't wait to get an even coat of varnish on it to blend in those gloss bits where the transfers went. The Slaters gearbox runs ok if a bit of a whine on it but not distracting enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Mike, any pictures of the Bachmann 08's? Hi Brian, I have done nothing to the models, just painted them - Halfords etch primer followed by Halfords Brooklands Green, Satin Black and Bumper Grey then on D3459, Tamyia weathering blocks - applied as a water colour and on 13115, just Railmatch Satin Varnish with a few drops of Weathered Black and Frame Dirt added to tone it down D3459 will be getting a Loksound chip shortly, whilst 13115 will be going back to it's owner tomorrow evening at the Club. Thanks for asking for the pictures. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 That's great Mike, always nice to see other 7mm diesel models. It's nice to see the Bachmann ones and get a better understanding as to why you get what you get in the MMP detailing pack for them. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Brian, unfortunately, I have had to curtail my modelling to painting and using PVA glues, so the detailing kit was out of the question as far as D3459 was concerned. I will be looking out for some bargains on the Bring and Buy stand at Gresford and Telford to hopefully pick up some decent models that just need a repaint - we'll see. cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Brian It looks very nice with all of the extra work you have done, it's a shame that not every thing was supplied with the kit. Nice one Brian. Pete Hi Pete/Brian. +1 CME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Hi Mike, Nice work! The phots seem better on here Have you modified the chassis/underfrmaes as there seems to be more fresh-air/daylight present than on some Bachmann's that I have seen... The Brooklands green.......which car manufacturer does it apply to? How well does it go on, as I have noticed that some car paint (acrylics) seem to, all too easily, end up with that plasticised orange peel effect - how do you find them/get them to go on so nice? ATB CME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Hi Mike, Nice work! The phots seem better on here Have you modified the chassis/underfrmaes as there seems to be more fresh-air/daylight present than on some Bachmann's that I have seen... The Brooklands green.......which car manufacturer does it apply to? How well does it go on, as I have noticed that some car paint (acrylics) seem to, all too easily, end up with that plasticised orange peel effect - how do you find them/get them to go on so nice? ATB CME Hi CME, no mods whatsoever. The Brooklands Green is Rover. I always warm brass locos whilst they are on the painting turntable for a few minutes with a fan heater and have the can on the turntable as well. It seems to do the trick, touch wood not had the orange peel effect, so hopefully, I'm doing something right - for a change. Light, short bursts with the can at 300mm to 450mm from the object. Just used the same procedure on the Bachmann Crab, so we'll see. cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o-gauge-scot Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Hello, I've recently converted to O gauge from OO, and am looking to model early 2000s, probably a small EWS MPD, so that I might actually finish it. Being a bit daunted by soldering, JLTRT seems a sensible option for me as far as getting locos and stock goes, and your assembled examples seem excellent, hopefully if I ever build any I can make them approaching your standard (so far I have two Parkside Grampus under my belt) Your 08 looks very snazzy to say the least, I would be very tempted to assemble one for my first loco some way down the line (that pun I assure you is the best I can muster), and you mentioned that JLTRT have sent replacement barrels for TTAs - are they scale sized now? As I've seen it mentioned that they were a tad undersized before, but they would make a good 'step up' between plastic kits and the JLTRT kits I think. Cheers in advance, O-gauge-scot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hello and welcome. I have made a start on the re-sized tanks. Thankfully the finished one came apart quite easily with a bit of glue buster. I am having to re-use the walkways but new cast end steps were suppplied as the tank is now a bit taller. I am sure you will find these kits nice to build. They weigh 630g so will need a good loco to pull them! You should be able to build a JLTRT loco just like mine as the shape is all done for us so there is no excuse for us to not get the bodies all looking the same. And we do, just look at the other threads on here about the JLTRT 40 builds. 08 is varnished now just the windows to add B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hi CME, no mods whatsoever. The Brooklands Green is Rover. I always warm brass locos whilst they are on the painting turntable for a few minutes with a fan heater and have the can on the turntable as well. It seems to do the trick, touch wood not had the orange peel effect, so hopefully, I'm doing something right - for a change. Light, short bursts with the can at 300mm to 450mm from the object. Just used the same procedure on the Bachmann Crab, so we'll see. cheers Mike Hi Mike, Thanks for the tips - I have some plastic models to spray soon, yet I sprayed a metal loco recently and the Halfords paint really didnt go on all that well :cry:.....I will give it another go though. Keep Posting! ATB CME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hello Brian, the small tank reminds me of the 'caustic soda' tanks that ran on the W.C.M.L. in the 80s. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted June 29, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hi Mike, Thanks for the tips - I have some plastic models to spray soon, yet I sprayed a metal loco recently and the Halfords paint really didnt go on all that well :cry:.....I will give it another go though. Keep Posting! ATB CME I was never keen on Acrylic car sprays, always finding the cellulose sprays gave a far superior finish but the last few cans of Halford acrylic I have tried have been very good, but you do have to be careful not to build up the depth too much, seems the cellulose gives a "thinner" paint surface and retains the body details better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now