Silverstreak Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) >>>The PHDesign plated over headcode box on the Deltic looks really good but I've got to say the ETH attachment looks much too wide unfortunately when compared to actual photographs<<<<< Hmmm the ETH socket itself looks fine to me but the baseplate does look a tad too wide but an easy fix with a spare piece of etch bent to shape. The soon to be released etched set from Pete Harvey is great news. I would be quite happy to use all of the bits to alter my Deltic to later condition, its just the required complete paint job thats putting me off at the moment Brian great inspiration from your good self . Incidently do the bogie sideframes come off easily as I would surmise it would be an easier task to remove the ridge that way Bob Ps if anyone can come up with the best method of creating the black coloured seal surrounds to the plated over headcode box lights without ballsing up the yellow paint I would like to hear it Edited October 10, 2011 by Mod5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Bob, the sideframes will come off with a screw driver to give you a bit of leaverage on the locating lug on the back of the sideframe and the metal bogie. I swear a couple of mine had a dab of glue on them as they took a lot of persuading to push off. You will need to remove the air cylinders but as these are glued in the locating spigot gets left behind, but it just superglues back in place ok. You may end up breaking the fine actuating rod off the end though. Again it's no big problem as it goes back in it's hole and then butts up to the cylinder nice and tight. I have broke a few of these but you would not no. If you break the cylinder with the handbreak chain on it there is a spare available from Howes (minus the chain though) I will take a picture with a few coments on it tomorrow in the light of day to explain better for you. I intend to paint my black bits with a fine artists pen from Rotring I think it is. Even more daunting though is painting the silver raised line around the bodyside windows, that will send me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Yes - I agree - the eth socket looks very good - just the baseplate is a bit wide - mind you once the baseplate is painted yellow it'll probably look OK - or you could make your own baseplate. I agree the seals will be tricky to paint - I am doing a similar thing to a Heljan 47 with a Extreme Etchings plated headcode panel (which I'm very pleased with) with round rubber seals. I have painted it yellow and am pretty confident I can paint it black neatly with a very,very fine brush which I've bought for the purpose using some matt black paint - not easy though. I did a similar thing on my Heljan 37 where I spray painted the outer rubber seals on the headcode boxes by masking them up with tamiya tape and that worked really well but took ages!. I had previously thought about creating a template in tamiya tape using a standard holepunch put it is slightly too big - although you might still be able to do this, ease the tape template on the headcode box in a slightly smaller radius and slowly work your way around. By the congratulations on your superb 'Tracks Revisited' as I saw the link above - I recall photographing at Sunderland Bridge in the early 80's waiting for the Redbank vans on a Sunday & I believe you would then be off over the S&C in your Escort if something good was running over there. I was only about 17/18 at the time and lived locally so had to make do with a bike to get me to the ECML and an Olympus OM1 to photograph with as low an ASA as I could get away to achieve the maximize sharpness but was always very jealous of your Pentax 6x7's! Best wishes & sorry for going slightly off topic here to everyone else! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Thank you Brian I thought you must have taken off the sideframes somehow. I look forward to seeing the images Deltic 17 - Some good ideas there to replicate the light seals on a plated headcode box and thank you for the positive feedback re the content of "Tracks" ---- Sunderland Bridge eh that takes me back One crazy idea I thought about was that permanent black felt-tip pens come with variety of tip widths I have one that is just just too small to the extent it was a tight fit for the headlight opening. With a very slightly wider nib.and with the headcode plate laid on a flat surface keeping the pen absolutely virtically allow it to centre on the opening then twist in a circular fashion with a full rotation hopefully leaving a nice thin black impression on the raised lip of the light seal of the headcode panel. Anymore for anymore Regards Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 The headcode cover rubber seals are not that hard to do as bob has mentioned a black perminent marker is a very good way to do it. Bbut an easy way is to put som Tamiya masking tape on to the headcode cover before fitting and run a scalple handle ove the edge of the outer circle this will cut through the tape then remove the disc and place it on a platic bag until ready for use then paint the black fit the masking disc and paint yellow then remove the masking disc and your done. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I had two ideas for this, one is the same as Pete but paint the black first them apply the masking tape, then follow what Pete has said. The other one was to paint it black (there could be a good song title in that) then apply the yellow, then with some 1000 grit wet 'n' dry glued to a length of flat wood slowly remove the yellow paint. The down side to both of them would be to get the yellow to cover the black, so it could mean a coat of white between the two. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I have now filled the sandbox fillers on the body and fitted the corner steps under the buffers. To rub down the filler on the corner sandbox fillers I removed the corner handrails (they just pulled out easily with a pair of pliers) and then pushed them back in when the job was done. The steps are a bit tight for clearance on the bogie dragging etch so a bit of fettling required on a couple of them, i.e. prise it off and move it back a bit! I narrowed the fuel tank yesterday by cutting the front off and then with a large, long file I removed a bit of the tank inner upto the round locating holes and then glued the front back on. I have in a spares box some castings that RJH did to upgrade their Deltic many moons ago so I have used a couple of the castings on the end of the tank. This morning I have made a small retainer for the ETH cable to stop it sticking out as per the prototype. All the supplied pipes are on the bufferbeams as well now. For Silverstreak/Bob I have included a couple of pictures showing how to remove the bogie sideframes. I still have the small airpipes to fit on the ends of the brake cylinders and a speedo drive cable. The body is just about ready for a paint job now I think, after I have poked the windows out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Excellent, helpful images Brian, you have done an amazing job of removing the raised edge on the bogies. By the way Brian hand painting the quarter light windows to represent the plate over replacement works as I have tested it out and it looks ok to my eye but I would suggest also carefully painting the back of the window to reduce the liklihood of backlighting seeping through. I think I will invest in a set of replacement windows from Howes in case I damage the existing ones when stripping down the body.. Those cast Air-horns from MMP look cracking . The list of added bits gets longer with each of your thread contributions. If I was looking for bits to replace on a steam outline kit loco I know where to look but not so for Diesels so this thread is an education but i'm not complaining Thanks also to Pete H and others re solving the Headcode box light seal poser Regards Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) I am lucky Bob in that Howes is just a 15 minute ride away so when I need a spare part I can get it and carry on modelling whilst the iron is still hot, so to speak. If you need anymore info on these Heljan models just ask away. Got the body in primer now Edited October 11, 2011 by brian daniels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I'm not sure what Brian used to remove the raised edge on the bogies but I can recommend a number 9 Swan Morton Chisel scalpel blade and it is very good on seam lines too, as being wide and flat it only removes down to one level and no lower. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I used a flat blade to remove to initial rib and then used a file as, thankfully, all the detail had to come off. I finished it with a fibreglass pen to get at the bits a file could not reach. A couple of pictures of it in primer now and the bogie pipework now done. Must go and paint the etched bits on the sideframes in primer now with a brush as I don't want to spray over that handbrake chain and clog it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Looking really good Brian, cant wait to see it finished. Made a start on the bogies this evening and I already know I will need to order the sprue with replacement brake cylinders on, Can I ask do you use an airbrush or a Railmatch aerosol. My steam outline go off to a colleague a local painter and lining expert but spraying a Deltic Im willing to do myself. Anyway back to getting those ridges off I can concur with Peter re the use of wide flat blade for removing the raised edge around the bogies Regards Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I always use Railmatch in an airbrush Bob. I am for the first time trying their acrylics out on this and it's got a big yellow nose now! You should be able to paint one of these as it's got to be the easiest masking job on a loco. If I were you I would push out all the windows now before you start gluing anything on the body, don't ask how I know I should have done this It's a shame they glued those brake cylinders in isn't it. I only managed to total one as all the others could be re-used even if they did not have the locating spigot on the back anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Hmm I would be interested in how you find your first use of acrylics Brian. I have yet to place my order with Howes so I shall hang on for your conclusions Hopefully Image attached will be of my first de-ridged bogie I have also removed all of the moulded on pipe work as I intend to replace with a mixture of copper and brass wire Regards Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Getting there Bob One down 3 to go. Here is a picture of it with a yellow end now. I thinned it about 50/50 I think as it was thicker than I thought acrylics were. It's covered in one go as well I think. I will mask it tomorrow and sdo the blue and hope the yellow stays on the model and not the masking tape! I painted the wheel faces with primer as well ready to paint them with frame dirt so they have a head start with the weathering later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Brian - 'THE BLACK WATCH' looks superb with the end painted - the only other thing I notice straightaway on the original Heljan model is the wiper positions - where they have positioned them looks like it is in the middle of a rain storm - Deltic wipers were roughly more at a 45 degree angle when not raining - also some Deltics in the late 70's/early 80's only had one wiper on each glass whereas others (most I think) had double wipers. I note that 55013 had double wipers so you are OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 12, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2011 Brian Very NICE! How easy do you think those wipers come out? I'm thinking about a conversion to a single wiper fitted loco. Jeez! I was doing a very good job at resisting one of these Heljan 55. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 The wipers are fitted with a square peg in a square hole to keep them skyward. I have been thinking about opening the hole out to lay them down a bit, maybe one day. Resistance is futile Tim if you have a craving just go for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hi Brian, Great to see the Deltic coming on. My experience with the yellow acrylics is that they are thicker than the blues. As one jar of yellow did both the DBSO sides and 97301, but a jar of blue gave my peak a couple of coats with a bit to spare. How are you going to fill the cab quarter lights? Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 12, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2011 The wipers are fitted with a square peg in a square hole to keep them skyward. I have been thinking about opening the hole out to lay them down a bit, maybe one day. Resistance is futile Tim if you have a craving just go for it Thanks Brian. Now, where is that slippery slope smiley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Quite a productive day today as I managed to press out all the body glazing without any damage which was a relief then set too and filled in all of sandbox fillers plus now all four bogies have had their ridges removed After breaking one brake cylinder last evening while trying to remove it prior to ridge removal I decided to leave the remainder in place and just cut and file around them, Final task for the day was to fit replacement pipes to the brake cylinders using .5 copper wire Strange, on my loco two bogies sideframes are black plastic through and through while the other two have a black finish but are made from a grey/white coloured materiai which shows up while filing and cutting Next steps are to order the paint (Any more feedback Brian on your use of acrylics) await the release of Peter Harvey's Deltic etched fret and get hold some cast bits and bobs Regards Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Following this with interest. I REALLY hope something will be done with the horrid plastic buffers that just scream "toy!" ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Coming along there Bob. One little job for you to do on those bogies is to remove the little moulding hanging down where the 37 steps would locate into and then fill the one next to it on the frame. I have painted the body now with the blue and thankfully it all went ok. The acrylic does cover better than the enamel I have found. Picture tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) Thanks for that Brian, I have a side print of a Deltic bogie post preservation so Im grateful for the tip. A couple of questions what glue do you use for fitting the etched/cast bits and bobs to the plastic body and bogie frames and is it Railmatch acrylic thinners that you have been using to thin the paint used on the Deltic JeffP MMP advertise a set of cast buffers for a Deltic so there is an alternative out there Regards Bob Edited October 12, 2011 by Silverstreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 12, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2011 Jeez! I was doing a very good job at resisting one of these Heljan 55. Me too....until today, picked mine up locally (same price as Tower so thats a result), I must say it looks a beast of a diesel....lovely! I test ran it then safely tucked it away in the box again to join a few more that will require fettling after I have finished fettling the four projects already on the go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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