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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Brian that beast is look very good, 1 or 2 is all that is needed for the size of many layouts me thinks, JeffP after building many MMP dogfish and understanding the way they are designed, and Simon is producing other needed items for us modellers, things like this take time to get it right, I am sure that once you get into the intricasies of etch design and production that you will find it takes a long time :O

 

Ian G

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Please, David and Ian, I wasn't complaining, moaning or anything else. (This is where message baords fail, you'd have known that had I been actually talking to you, not typing).

 

I was simply pointing out that you have to wait for the better things in life.

 

And I fully understand what goes into the production of kits with that level of detail.

 

Sorry to both if my post seemed otherwise.

 

edited to say: at least with MMP and, I assume Simon, when stuff is promised, we can rely on it actually appearing.

Edited by JeffP
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Well I said I would have it done by the end of the week. All that needs doing is filling the roof slots with Isopon filler.

 

I soldered the doors to the body at the top runner and to the middle support and the ends so they don't rattle when it's running. I added a vac pipe from my spares box but unfortunately it was cast with the bottom tucking under a bufferbeam higher up than I needed. On trying to straighten it out it snapped off, no surprise really. So I soldered it back on, still not perfect but I can live with it. The buffers feel solid but that's more than I can say for the handbrake wheels, can't see them lasting long.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Brian.

 

I've just revisited the first pages of this thread where you have painted the class 26. I may have missed it, but where are the additional headlamps for the far North loco's from and how did you illuminate them?

 

As I say, you may have covered it, so apologies if the answer is a few pages further on and I missed it.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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Hi Brian.

 

I've just revisited the first pages of this thread where you have painted the class 26. I may have missed it, but where are the additional headlamps for the far North loco's from and how did you illuminate them?

 

As I say, you may have covered it, so apologies if the answer is a few pages further on and I missed it.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Sean

 

I have been using Cararama Mini headlights. These are cheap enough to buy and just use the headlights off. You could use the mini on a layout facing away from you?

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I have been busy recently doing more work on the Thumper unit. It is now a 2 car set and had it's first run round the Bourne End test track yesterday that threw up one little problem when propelling the driving trailer in that the buckeyes were catching on the coridoor buffer and causing it to derail occasionally so a mod needed here. I will take some more pictures when the weather improves. Should make a start maybe on the centre trailer coach.

 

I have also painted and decalled the Cargowaggon van and mighty impressive it looks too, again pictures to follow.

 

I also painted the Heljan Western and 40 before Christmas.

 

Got a week off work now so should get the camera out if the damn weather improves.

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Sean

 

I have been using Cararama Mini headlights. These are cheap enough to buy and just use the headlights off. You could use the mini on a layout facing away from you?

Thanks Brian.

 

I'll have a look for a couple of pairs. Whilst I do so, and if I can be a pain again, do the mini headlamps come with bulbs included and if not, what did you use to light them and how did you wire them up?

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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The mini lamps are just clear plastic with a chromed outside. To illuminate them on my JLTRT class 26 I used 16v bulbs held in place in a piece of brass tube that's glued into a hole in the front of the model. I have never had a problem with the 16v bulb running on 12v and getting too hot. I have just run them off a function from the sound chip. Remember that it's also possible to lower the voltage on the chips function outputs to maybe 9v so the bulb would definatly not get hot.I know I have said it before but I just like the bulbs light over LED's as it's, well, a light bulb which is what we are replicating.

Edited by brian daniels
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The mini lamps are just clear plastic with a chromed outside. To illuminate them on my JLTRT class 26 I used 16v bulbs held in place in a piece of brass tube that's glued into a hole in the front of the model. I have never had a problem with the 16v bulb running on 12v and getting too hot. I have just run them off a function from the sound chip. Remember that it's also possible to lower the voltage on the chips function outputs to maybe 9v so the bulb would definatly not get hot.I know I have said it before but I just like the bulbs light over LED's as it's, well, a light bulb which is what we are replicating.

 

That makes a lot of sense Brian - The light from LEDs often seems too harsh to me.

 

What diameter are the bulbs, where do you get them from and do you have a reference number for them please?

 

 

Regards

 

Dan 

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Dan I see they are available from DCC Supplies http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/index.php?manufacturers_id=41

 

They are 2.4mm diameter.

 

You can get them from the US for $25.95 for 20 but then there's the dreaded postage and import tax and the post office charging us for the pleasure of them doing their job! http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=1_1

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Dan I see they are available from DCC Supplies http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/index.php?manufacturers_id=41

 

They are 2.4mm diameter.

 

You can get them from the US for $25.95 for 20 but then there's the dreaded postage and import tax and the post office charging us for the pleasure of them doing their job! http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=1_1

 

Thanks Brian!

 

 

Regards

 

Dan 

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Here is the Cargowaggon fully painted and decaled. Although I still have not varnished it just yet. There was a lot of filling, then filing and then rubbing down on the roof! But it's come out nice and smooth in the end. The transfers are from Appleby and cover most of what is on the wagon that I have a picture of. The only bit that's wrong is the white lettering on the silver doors, this should be the same as the other lettering transfers, that is, black lettering on white with a black border. The long yellow panel went on ok with plenty of Micro-Scale setting solution to get it over the ribs. The Cargowaggon lettering is all individual letters to to try and keep in a line.

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I have been beavering away on the Thumper recently so that I have a twin set to run now at least.

 

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I have substituted the Wayo bogies for JLTRT ones which are far better as they have brake blocks! I had to use the supplied whitemetal casting in the middle of the bogie to make them a "Southern" style B1 bogie. Interestingly the bogie under the driving cab does not have the shock adsorbers fitted but all the other bogies do. Also had to move the step on the bogie side. I am now waiting to get some brass to make the lifeguards. This bogie also needs a speedo that I shall get from Westdale.

 

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Shame the corridor buffers do not touch. There is a lot of slack in the KD's so I might try them with a stiffer spring in them.

 

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I still have no stepboards on the trailer coach as they seemed to be all different legths on every prototype! The etched ones supplied are no good for 1133 that I am doing so I need to get hold of some strip to make them up from.

 

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On the ends I have used CPL emergency brake equipment. Also a lot of JLTRT blue star MU equipment.

 

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Added some pipework on the watertanks underneath.

 

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Made a start on the 4 roof pipes around the engine roof hatch only to run out of split pins with one to go.

 

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I have added the door stops on the power car, just need to pluck the enthusiasm to add the door hinges, lots of them!

 

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Again a lot of blue star MU jumpers. Had to move the lower end step inwards on this motor coach. I am sure the Berkshires are different from the Hampshires.

 

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I added some pipes from the rear of the fuel tank. I don't know where they go but suspect into the floor under the engine.

 

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This shows the backs that I put on the fuel tanks and battery boxes. One problem doing this though is that you cover up the inner screw holes to screw the chassis to the body. So a couple of new holes need drilling through. This also applies to the trailer coach.

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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