Class 37, by Accurascale

[adb968008]

5432…

Bananas

 

ok..

5432…

just brushing my teeth.

 

right now then..

5432..And sold out.

1.

 

this routine guarentees you will be beaten up by your little one, every time.

you could try a variation..

3740Gone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2023 by adb968008

[Bishdurham]

2 hours ago, atom3624 said:

Where does the decoder go? ..................

Use F29 to often and you will find it in the litter tray!

[G-BOAF]

My retailer has just dispatched my '409.

So hopefully on the desk for some shunting later in the week

[Krieghoff]

Ive just had my despatch note for my Loch Lomond DCC Sound from Rails. Happy days. Looking forward to that as ive ordered Caroline in BR green as well. 

[Lowlander]

2 hours ago, Bryn_Bach_Railway said:

Is there any update on the sound decoders? Both as to when they might be back in stock and as to if the refurbished sound file ever got the cold start added? Have a DC 37 402 and would very much like to get it running and sounding proper :)

I've fitted Leggoman Biffos new Accurascale 37 sound chip and it is just as good as the Accurascale pre-fitted ones. If that's any help!

[Jeremy Davison]

I appreciate that Accurascale have gone to the trouble on 37402 to recreate the different buffers at each end which is amazing attention to detail. (Thank you!) However all the photos that I can see show the more rounded buffers at the fan/nameplate end, whereas on the models that same end seems to have the squarer buffers.

Ironically googling for images of the model shows one image on the Hattons website that looks correct, however I've tried swapping the body around and it only fits one way.

Can anyone point me to any pics that show the  squarer buffers at the fan/nameplate end? All the ones that I can find look like this with the rounder buffers at the fan end: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126693116@N06/48316458916/sizes/h/

 

or am I just going bonkers?!?

 

Any help appreciated!

Cheers

Jeremy

 

 

[97406]

3 minutes ago, Jeremy Davison said:

I appreciate that Accurascale have gone to the trouble on 37402 to recreate the different buffers at each end which is amazing attention to detail. (Thank you!) However all the photos that I can see show the more rounded buffers at the fan/nameplate end, whereas on the models that same end seems to have the squarer buffers.

Ironically googling for images of the model shows one image on the Hattons website that looks correct, however I've tried swapping the body around and it only fits one way.

Can anyone point me to any pics that show the  squarer buffers at the fan/nameplate end? All the ones that I can find look like this with the rounder buffers at the fan end: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126693116@N06/48316458916/sizes/h/

 

or am I just going bonkers?!?

 

Any help appreciated!

Cheers

Jeremy

 

 

You can unscrew and swap the bufferbeams around if you need to. They detach to facilitate the application of the bufferbeam pipework.

[AussieEE]

6 hours ago, Bucoops said:

 

The decoder fitting is easy if you are quick. There is a port on the bottom. The stay alive however can frequently be fatal which obviously defeats the point.

The stay alive are only good for 9 times in the cat. 

[Bucoops]

28 minutes ago, AussieEE said:

The stay alive are only good for 9 times in the cat. 

I meant fatal for the owner...

[Jeremy Davison]

2 hours ago, 97406 said:

You can unscrew and swap the bufferbeams around if you need to. They detach to facilitate the application of the bufferbeam pipework.

Thank for that info. It will help me swap the buffers around and as you say add the pipework. I've got two more on order in the next batch of 37/6s that will need pipework and ploughs  :)

Jeremy

[scissors]

15 hours ago, 97406 said:

You can unscrew and swap the bufferbeams around if you need to. They detach to facilitate the application of the bufferbeam pipework.

Didn't realise they were removable, that's good to know. I assume it's the two screws underneath, immediately behind the buffer beam.

[97406]

7 minutes ago, scissors said:

Didn't realise they were removable, that's good to know. I assume it's the two screws underneath, immediately behind the buffer beam.

There’s 4, though expect one or 2 to succumb to the carpet monster. 2 or 3 screws will work when you lose some of them! 😃

 

[scissors]

Just now, 97406 said:

There’s 4, though expect one or 2 to succumb to the carpet monster. 2 or 3 screws will work when you lose some of them! 😃

 

Thanks, I've got 37043 to do so I'll give it a go later. I did 37423 without realising it was removable and it is a little tricky.

[97406]

2 minutes ago, scissors said:

Thanks, I've got 37043 to do so I'll give it a go later. I did 37423 without realising it was removable and it is a little tricky.

It’s great for doing the ploughs, though I managed to fit Accurascale ploughs to one of my Bachmann 37s OK.

[Accurascale Fran]

Hi everyone,

 

Just a quick tease to point out that we will be running some of our lovely 37/6s as part of our "Accurascale takeover" this Friday and Saturday. Expect some pics very soon too, once we stop drooling over them! Oh and 97301.... 

 

Cheers!

 

Fran 

[Mooresby]

Look forward to seeing these @Accurascale Fran

Any news on any surplus large logos being put up on your site?

[Markn]

As much as 608 will surely be popular, I can't wait to see how good the fade on 609 looks! That's the standout one for me.

[adb968008]

37402 Buffers…

 

I just updated mine and thought i’d share.

As pointed out earlier, the rectangular buffers are at the wrong end.

Switching them is straight forwards..

 

i remove the body as a matter of safety (avoiding the detail getting snagged, losing an aerial etc, but you could choose to leave it on and go straight to step 4).

 

1. Disconnect the eth, a tiny screw driver will simply pop it out (both ends)

 

2. unclip the body, this is as easy as Lima one, simply run your finger nail between body and chassis both sides,  4 lugs to unclip its dead easy.

3. Make note the body only fits the chassis one way correctly… locate the three pipes on the chassis and align to the large grill end.

 

4. Four tiny sunglass sized screws hold the bufferbeam and coupling cradle.. remove the screws and lift out.

Caution here to not unseat the coupling cam box and spring.. it should be flush and gently handling here, to avoid frustration with the spring..

 

 

5. swap bufferbeam ends, refit the screws, ensuring the coupling cam is seated flush to the cradle and hence the frame

6. tighten, refit the body as per the fuel pipes to the large grill and oush the eth cable back in, job done.

 

5-10 mins.

Edited August 2, 2023 by adb968008

[The Stationmaster]

1 hour ago, Accurascale Fran said:

Hi everyone,

 

Just a quick tease to point out that we will be running some of our lovely 37/6s as part of our "Accurascale takeover" this Friday and Saturday. Expect some pics very soon too, once we stop drooling over them! Oh and 97301.... 

 

Cheers!

 

Fran 

How about video with sound?  For those who g haven't yet heard the sound of A/S 37's they'd be in for a real treat.

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

1 hour ago, Mooresby said:

Look forward to seeing these @Accurascale Fran

Any news on any surplus large logos being put up on your site?

They are all playing trains,with what they have to play on we would be too,no doubt i will go out and he will wip them on when we are not looking, but god loves a trier.......

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

You can watch Making Tracks for free it seems onhttps://railcam.uk/ ,ive just tried without loging in and its playing but its worth every penny of the £36 to support railcam

[Bryn_Bach_Railway]

21 hours ago, Lowlander said:

I've fitted Leggoman Biffos new Accurascale 37 sound chip and it is just as good as the Accurascale pre-fitted ones. If that's any help!

That’s for the suggestion, ideally tho I’d like to keep them on the same decoder as then performance should be very similar if not the same (mainly as in speed curves and how it reacts to the throttle etc) so that double heading or top and tailing will be easy to do for rail-tour and heritage line operations, along with the odd test train too

[Vecchio]

Have to celebrate the arrival of my new toy in style... Waited since my last Scotland holiday (2022) for this moment and kept the bottle in the rear of my cupboard... 

No fear, I don't drink at this time of the day, may be a little later... 

 

IMG20230802141336 

 

[37501]

My thoughts exactly. I received a bottle of Vulcan XJ823 rum as a birthday present last year. I have been saving this to celebrate the arrival of my two Scottish Class 37s….

[mevaman1]

8 hours ago, adb968008 said:

37402 Buffers…

 

I just updated mine and thought i’d share.

As pointed out earlier, the rectangular buffers are at the wrong end.

Switching them is straight forwards..

 

i remove the body as a matter of safety (avoiding the detail getting snagged etc, but you could choose to leave it on and go straight to step 4).

 

1. Disconnect the eth, a tiny screw driver will simply pop it out (both ends)

 

2. unclip the body, this is as easy as Lima one, simply run your finger nail between body and chassis both sides,  4 lugs to unclip its dead easy.

3. Make note the body only fits the chassis one way correctly… locate the three pipes on the chassis and align to the large grill end.

 

4. Four tiny sunglass sized screws hold the bufferbeam and coupling cradle.. remove the screws and lift out.

Caution here to not unseat the coupling cam box and spring.. it should be flush and gently handling here, to avoid frustration with the spring..

 

 

5. swap bufferbeam ends, refit the screws, ensuring the coupling cam is seated flush to the cradle and hence the frame

6. tighten, refit the body as per the fuel pipes to the large grill and oush the eth cable back in, job done.

 

5-10 mins.

Cheers adb968008.

 

I have just swapped mine to correct the minor problem.

 

Now to fit the ploughs!

 

Andrew