Jeremy Davison

Hi, they look really great! I wondered how you do your panel wash? I did go looking for a Tamiya panel wash paint but it was really hard to get, I'd be interested to know what works, especially on yellow! Thanks Jeremy

I think the Class 185 is a great shout and a real 'missing link' from the current modelling scene. They might not have many liveries, but cover a huge geographical range and will be around for many years to come. I'd certainly have one and probably two as they look great in both liveries. Cheers Jeremy

Yes, look at my post on the previous page

It could have a big stay-alive in it, which is pretty similar!

Maybe I'm missing the point here, but the DVT with sound was an easy fix. I used a Loksound FX (function only decoder) with Legoman Biffo sound and a stay alive fitted to it. All the flicker goes and the sound is excellent. Cheers Jeremy

Everyone briefed and looking forward to setting up on Friday

There is the internet in Benidorm........ ;)

Yes, not long to go now! Looking forward to a good weekend!

I'd like to know how to set the CVs to turn the interior lighting on with F0 so that it will stay illuminated at shows after a trip. I normally do this on ESU chips but am not sure where to start on Zimo decoders. Any help gratefully received. Thanks Jeremy

I disagree with you an this McC, as we often take a layout out to exhibitions that has OHLE in a stabling area. Being able to raise and lower the pans allows both the CL92s and Cl90s to sit on shed with their pans down, but then put them up and drive off when required in a realistic manner. They are not a gimmick! One day people will take pantographs as seriously as the valve gear on a steam loco! Now tiny LEDs that flash where the pantograph meets the rail are maybe closer to a gimmick, but again represent a specific thing seen on the real railway. So please keep pushing the boundaries and developing these 'firsts'! (Oh and make sure that the Cl 92 pantograph head is flat with the wires when up, and when down, sits within the loading gauge please). Cheers Jeremy

Does anyone know which CVs control the brightness of the destination displays and the interior lighting. Mine are really dim. Also, I'd like to add the interior lights to work with F0 so that at exhibitions people don't forget to turn them on (or on again after a trip). Hopefully someone else has worked out how to do these things. I normally use ESU decoders and its easy to do all the above on a Lokprogrammer. Thanks in advance Jeremy

You beat me too it Dave! Thanks for posing this. Looking forwards to the Exhibition, Jeremy

Great Endon is now back in my garage near Preston and I just wanted to say a big thank you to Malcolm and all the Falkirk team for putting on an excellent exhibition. We were made to feel very welcome, and it was a busy show with generally a good crowd in front of the layout. I was pleasantly surprised and very grateful to be awarded the Tony Cornwell Cup for my layout, which made my day. Thanks again Jeremy

ESU Chips have a 'flicker' start function for lighting. This is used in the Realtrack Cl156s and looks very realistic. Hope this helps Jeremy

Taking Caroline for a test spin on Euxton Junction. To get the rear lights on Caroline to not show, I used a piece of insulation tape on the board and the change the light settings on the Cl37. (yes I know its the wrong green for this Cl37 livery) Cheers Jeremy

I read all my railway magazines nowadays on Readly and have just checked BRM and Rail Express. I'm running the latest version of Edge in Win 11 and they both work fine for me. So I don't think its Readly or magazine specific. Hope you get it sorted. Jeremy

As discussed earlier in this thread, its easy to pop out the circuit board and put a strip of insulation tape over the connector pads for the end next to the loco. Its worked well for me. I also mapped the red lights onto F0. There are some reasons why Revolution did it this way, also discussed previously. Regards Jeremy

Hi, its here; I've highlight the checkbox:

Got my Viridian Green Caroline today from Rainbow Railways today and very nice it is too. The external packing was excellent and I quite like the Revolution box itself too. With regard to the DCC chip, as mentioned earlier, I fitted the Lokpilot 5 Fx (which I know has at least 6 powered functions) and was initially disappointed to find the searchlights and step lights not working. I then turned OFF the power option to AUX3 and AUX4 and now all the lights are working fine. I just wanted to share this so that its clear that there are clearly drivers built into Caroline's circuit board to work with logic inputs on AUX 3 and AUX4 by default. Hopefully this will be of use to anyone struggling to get their lights working. Cheers Jeremy

Its more the other way around. There are 8 powered function outputs on the Lokpilot 5 Fx and Aux3 and Aux4 can be changed from powered to logic if you wanted to. Page 21 of the manual: 'AUX3, AUX4 (on the 21MTC interface !!!) can be switched to logic level (NEM660) or power. Logic level: CV124 Bit 7 = 0 Power: CV124 Bit 7 = 1' Hope this helps Jeremy

That's why I went for the ESU Lokpilot 5 FX, it doesn't have the drive motor functionality, (but you don't need that in Caroline) and has more than enough functions, and is cheaper than a normal Lokpilot 5. From the ESU website: "Functions The LokPilot 5 Fx has been equipped with an astonishing number of function outputs. Depending on the cutting version, each LokPilot 5 Fx decoder offers at least 10 reinforced function outputs with 250mA output current each. In the versions with PluX22 or 21MTC interface, 4 outputs for controlling servos or logic level outputs are added. All important lighting functions are available. The brightness of each output can be set separately." Hope this helps Jeremy

I've got my ESU Lokpilot 5 FX ready to go in.....

Thank for that info. It will help me swap the buffers around and as you say add the pipework. I've got two more on order in the next batch of 37/6s that will need pipework and ploughs :) Jeremy

I appreciate that Accurascale have gone to the trouble on 37402 to recreate the different buffers at each end which is amazing attention to detail. (Thank you!) However all the photos that I can see show the more rounded buffers at the fan/nameplate end, whereas on the models that same end seems to have the squarer buffers. Ironically googling for images of the model shows one image on the Hattons website that looks correct, however I've tried swapping the body around and it only fits one way. Can anyone point me to any pics that show the squarer buffers at the fan/nameplate end? All the ones that I can find look like this with the rounder buffers at the fan end: https://www.flickr.com/photos/126693116@N06/48316458916/sizes/h/ or am I just going bonkers?!? Any help appreciated! Cheers Jeremy

I'd hope to see the N-gauge 319 expanded to OO scale before long. I'm surprised we haven't seen this already as the 'little ones' look really good. Cheers Jeremy