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Hornby APT (2020 tooling)


PaulRhB

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29 minutes ago, marcusd666 said:

Has anyone fitted a plug in decoder ( No lead)? 

 

You’d need to find an incredibly thin one with a socket at 90° to the normal as there’s not much room above the socket and on the NDM the decoder socket moves in relation to the body as it’s on the motor cradle so it mustn’t touch or it will restrict the tilt and lift the bogies as a result. 

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3 hours ago, marcusd666 said:

Another quick question well 2 really.

 

Has anyone fitted a plug in decoder ( No lead)? and is any thinking of trying to replace the pano's with after market ones?

 

Thanks

The only direct 8 pin plug in I have to hand is the Zen version and it is way took deep to allow the cover back on, I used a Zimo 600 with 8 pin lead/socket with room to fit quite easily.

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On 05/02/2022 at 20:13, zoomer1979 said:

Good news, suppressor removed and is back up and running. Drive shafts are a bit out of balance I've noticed. It's possibly the reason why some of the NDMs are noisey and some aren't.

Neil.

Further to this, I was running the repaired NDM and within 15mins it stated running poorly, then smoke came from it again. Will be sending it back as soon as Hornby respond to my repair request :angry:.

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3 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

 

 

You’d need to find an incredibly thin one with a socket at 90° to the normal as there’s not much room above the socket and on the NDM the decoder socket moves in relation to the body as it’s on the motor cradle so it mustn’t touch or it will restrict the tilt and lift the bogies as a result. 


TCS DP2X-UK might fit the bill

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15 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:


TCS DP2X-UK might fit the bill

It might fit the NDM but the socket is so shallow on the driving cab the cover might not fit. The Zimo ones at £20 - £25 each fit so I’d stay with them to save money. 
 

0F5F4BFC-CDC5-4315-972B-18EDCAB6BDA6.jpeg.70e7037bfc3f56930c0118f6716f8818.jpeg

12.04mm x 17.83mm x 4.06mm

Edited by PaulRhB
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Decided to give the APT a run tonight with my daughter.

 

Nothing heavy, a 10 car set. Perfectly fine for my layout. Barely 10 loops later, suddenly the train slowed and all the carriage lights dimmed.

A short I thought, cut power, but it was too late, smoke rose from the NDM, It was dead!

 

And the heat made a nice hole in it's roof! £700+ of dead train less than a week after receiving it...

 

 

APT_Dead.jpg

Edited by JSpencer
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23 minutes ago, JSpencer said:

Decided to give the APT a run tonight with my daughter.

 

Nothing heavy, a 10 car set. Perfectly fine for my layout. Barely 10 loops later, suddenly the train slowed and all the carriage lights dimmed.

A short I thought, cut power, but it was too late, smoke rose from the NDM, It was dead!

 

And the heat made a nice hole in it's roof! £700+ of dead train less than a week after receiving it...

 

 

APT_Dead.jpg

These suppression capacitors seem to be a liability. I think I’ll just remove mine as they either aren’t up to the job or are faulty. It’s just a faff getting them apart AGAIN!

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So what do these capacitors look like? Can you snip one end or do you have to fully remove and solder wire across the contacts,  are they the capacitors for TV suppression?

 

Sorry so many questions but are we sure they are the problem?

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20 hours ago, marcusd666 said:

Same here I wouldn't recommend Them I have a used them and my NDM'S Started clashing and started getting derailing. They are great for uncoupling but sadly on my 1 second radius curve with a small y point they are no use.

20220203_105533.jpg

20220203_105502.jpg

20220202_103035.jpg

Would they still work with a shim wide enough to fix the length between the couplers?

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8 hours ago, Markwj said:

So what do these capacitors look like? Can you snip one end or do you have to fully remove and solder wire across the contacts,  are they the capacitors for TV suppression?

Sorry so many questions but are we sure they are the problem?

 

Someone else has confirmed their’s went back and had new one fitted and another that once removed it ran fine again so it’s  twice definitely been responsible for a failure and the melted hole above is right over the location for it on the chassis. It’s the small, usually brown, motor suppressor and in an ideal world it would be replaced with another to reduce noise but they do run fine without. You could just snip off one end but I’d want to tape the cut end so it can’t touch anything else. I know it voids the warranty to remove it but if you just unsolder it it can be re-attached if there was a motor fail. 

 

 

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30 minutes ago, scumcat said:

I want to remove  mine before They blow, but I can’t seem to remove the pantograph, any suggestions please.

There are two screws accessed from above , the pantograph stands on two pillars and they are screwed  at the bottom on each side. Try shining a light to see where they are , or look at one of the youtube videos of people like 00rail dismantling theirs. The screws are the same as the two under the body.

 

the panto screws are either side of the panto rather than at the ends

Edited by Bigeddie
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13 hours ago, JSpencer said:

Decided to give the APT a run tonight with my daughter.

 

Nothing heavy, a 10 car set. Perfectly fine for my layout. Barely 10 loops later, suddenly the train slowed and all the carriage lights dimmed.

A short I thought, cut power, but it was too late, smoke rose from the NDM, It was dead!

 

And the heat made a nice hole in it's roof! £700+ of dead train less than a week after receiving it...

 

 

APT_Dead.jpg

Very sorry to read about this.  Seems something drew a lot of juice before it blew 

 

The hole in the body, clearly something below it got very hot.  I'm mindful yours is going back so you wouldn't want to take it apart, but what do you think sits directly beneath the hole?

 

*Edit - i think Paul answered this above

Edited by Ouroborus
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1 minute ago, boxbrownie said:

The hole it has caused actually seems to have been burnt around the edges, not just a hot melted hole but burning.

 

Thats much more serious than just getting hot.

Capacitors do tend to go spectacularly!

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21 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:

Indeed, what worried me was if the capacitor actually went as far as “flaming” rather than just getting very, very hot?

Well I had one go on a large scale decoder and saw the flash through the loco windows and it scorched an inch diameter of the board so I think it’s more an intense flash burn as it goes rather than a sustained flame to catch plastic on fire. I removed the six screws rather fast to get to it though. 

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Anyone else had to return more than one of these? First version had a power car that was v noisy and could not get around my third radius curves. Plus there was also a cracked bogie on one of the end cars. 

My retailer sent me a replacement set (tape was still on the box so the instruction to test the model before sending was ignored). This time the power car can navigate the third radius curves just fine and sounds 'normal'. The new problem is that both the power car and non motored power cars wobble (I presume either bogies or axels warped). There is also an unsightly overspray with the yellow on one of the end cars. 

I'll just have to return for another new one again. Wondering what are the chances of getting a duff third version also? Whilst I generally like my retailer I also don't understand their approach of sending the product untested and uninspected despite a message to test being on the order. 

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2 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

Well I had one go on a large scale decoder and saw the flash through the loco windows and it scorched an inch diameter of the board so I think it’s more an intense flash burn as it goes rather than a sustained flame to catch plastic on fire. I removed the six screws rather fast to get to it though. 

It’s usually the electrolytic caps that can burn with flames, the ceramics just go pop spectacularly :wacko:

 

Still worried it got so hot to burn a hole through the body though.

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17 hours ago, JSpencer said:

Decided to give the APT a run tonight with my daughter.

 

Nothing heavy, a 10 car set. Perfectly fine for my layout. Barely 10 loops later, suddenly the train slowed and all the carriage lights dimmed.

A short I thought, cut power, but it was too late, smoke rose from the NDM, It was dead!

 

And the heat made a nice hole in it's roof! £700+ of dead train less than a week after receiving it...

 

 

APT_Dead.jpg


I hope you are reporting this to Hornby . I know recompense will be through who  you bought it from , but Hornby really need to know about this 

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13 minutes ago, Legend said:


it would have been virtually no problem in comparison 

Really?!? :lol: 
 

Based on the ‘ground breaking’ performance of the J94 and early Beattie and O2? All those were ok but hardly cutting edge. The J94 was noisy and the neither of the others were perfect either with assorted niggles on space in the Beattie for dcc and running with my original two O2’s. Ok those issues were well sorted with the re-issues and EFE versions but no DJM model was perfect out of the box in great numbers!

 

As shown a couple of pages back it’s a marked step up from the 80’s model in the front end shape and as a full set a much bigger task than anything DJ managed to actually produce ;) 

I’d give it overall 7/10 execution although I do feel it looks the part so I’d push the looks on bigger radii to 9/10

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33 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

Really?!? :lol: 
 

Based on the ‘ground breaking’ performance of the J94 and early Beattie and O2? All those were ok but hardly cutting edge. The J94 was noisy and the neither of the others were perfect either with assorted niggles on space in the Beattie for dcc and running with my original two O2’s. Ok those issues were well sorted with the re-issues and EFE versions but no DJM model was perfect out of the box in great numbers!

 

As shown a couple of pages back it’s a marked step up from the 80’s model in the front end shape and as a full set a much bigger task than anything DJ managed to actually produce ;) 

I’d give it overall 7/10 execution although I do feel it looks the part so I’d push the looks on bigger radii to 9/10


Sorry Paul .Was being facetious . The key word was “virtual” as in it would never have turned up, being vapourware. 

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4 minutes ago, Legend said:


Sorry Paul .Was being facetious . The key word was “virtual” as in it would never have turned up, being vapourware. 

Ah ‘virtually’ no problem ;)  

 

I’d agree with that 100%

 

Still I think despite its issues it’s a pretty good model but certainly not benefiting from detail, detail, detail in design, development and production as far as we can see :) 

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