hornby 2020 Hornby A2/2 and A2/3 (2020 Range)

[zr2498]

This is a photo with body removed, but when I installed firebox flicker and sound there was no need to touch the weight over the chassis.

 

[46256]

38 minutes ago, micklner said:

One was briefly shown being repaired re Valve Gear failure, on last mondays Hornby programme.

It would have been interesting to see in detail what the problem was, it looked like a motion bind. If I recall it was handed to the repairer, but didn’t elaborate on how it was remedied. The next mention of it ,was it being returned to the customer.

[zr2498]

1 minute ago, 46256 said:

It would have been interesting to see in detail what the problem was, it looked like a motion bind. If I recall it was handed to the repairer, but didn’t elaborate on how it was remedied. The next mention of it ,was it being returned to the customer.

I haven't looked back over the programme, but seem to remember there was an incorrect part fitted to the motion. This was replaced with the correct one and tested OK.

[MikeParkin65]

2 hours ago, 46256 said:

It would have been interesting to see in detail what the problem was, it looked like a motion bind. If I recall it was handed to the repairer, but didn’t elaborate on how it was remedied. The next mention of it ,was it being returned to the customer.

One connecting rod was fitted upside down. Not clear how this caused the gear to lock up but given that the complete gear plus the slide bars had to be removed I suspect the nut holding the connecting rod to the front driver was either loose or not driven fully home things causing it to fowl the rods, perhaps on a curve. 

[MikeParkin65]

3 hours ago, zr2498 said:

This is a photo with body removed, but when I installed firebox flicker and sound there was no need to touch the weight over the chassis.

 

I think all of the gearing will be above the middle driver - I don’t think there will be a gear train under the main part of the casting over the leading wheels. 

[sjp23480]

I picked up an A2/2 from Amazon Warehouse for a decent price (at the time) and it had buckled eccentric rod - the problem was due to a loose nut holding the eccentric crank.  All sorted and running sweetly.

 

Probably worth checking the nut on the eccentric crank is nice and tight before running in.

[gr.king]

50 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

I think all of the gearing will be above the middle driver - I don’t think there will be a gear train under the main part of the casting over the leading wheels. 

Indeed. Looking at what appears to be the end of a gear shaft protruding through the side of the main chassis block, above the middle wheel, I suspect the spur gears require no other means of retention, but the separate weight may still do the job of holding down the nose of the motor and thus keeping the worm in mesh. A new means of retention without the weight may be possible, but clear knowledge of what lies beneath would still be best.

[Dominion]

I have had one all apart Graeme but I did not take any photos at the time. The intermediate gears are accessed through a small triangular plate in the side of the main casting. They are independent of the front weight. However my memory agrees with your guess that the weight does hold down the front motor bearing.

 

I actually found it quite easy to work on and it gave me the feeling it was a well designed chassis. 
I am intrigued to know what you have in mind for it. Tom

[davidw]

1 hour ago, Dominion said:

 

I am intrigued to know what you have in mind for it. Tom

 

As do I!

[Ollie K]

5 hours ago, gr.king said:

Indeed. Looking at what appears to be the end of a gear shaft protruding through the side of the main chassis block, above the middle wheel, I suspect the spur gears require no other means of retention, but the separate weight may still do the job of holding down the nose of the motor and thus keeping the worm in mesh. A new means of retention without the weight may be possible, but clear knowledge of what lies beneath would still be best.

Ask and you shall receive…

 

Purely as I’m also interested to see what Graeme’s up to (and it might answer questions for others in future) I’ve just had the bonnet off my A2/3.

 

 

The metal shroud protruding from the motor and stretching over the top of the driving wheels is released via two small screws.

 

 

Once removed it reveals the motor worm drive and a tall screw tower mounting. No other gears are exposed.

 

 

The shroud’s rear acts as a retaining bracket for the front of the motor, as per the Hornby A3 / A4 chassis. 
 

 

As seen here the loco still runs with the cover removed, but the worm drive skips out of mesh in forward drive (better in reverse) and would require an alternative means of securing the motor. 
 

If the motor cover was sawn off just ahead of the first screw hole it appears to me it would be held by the aft screw, continuing to do its job retaining the motor but leave the space above of the first pair of driving wheels clear.

 

 

Does this help?

 

Ollie

Edited March 16, 2023 by OliverBytham

[Dominion]

I wonder if the resin meister is planning an A2/1 with one of his own V2 bodies … ? 

[gr.king]

17 hours ago, OliverBytham said:

 

 

16 hours ago, Dominion said:

 

 

19 hours ago, davidw said:

 

 

Excellent pictures Ollie, many thanks. I agree that the severely cropped weight, held by just the aft screw, might still do the job of holding the motor, better still, if there's space within the body for a thin brass strap over the rear of the weight, with its ends fixed by screws into new tapped holes in the sides of the main block.

What's it for Gents? Well I'm tempted to see whether one of these units can be employed under the home-made body I already have for A2/2 Lord President with original shortened Mikado boiler and vee-front cab. That was made from a butchered A3 body, with new front portion and A4 type cab from resin. Had I made it with the Hornby chassis in mind, I would have simply included a long enough slot in the base to take that big weight, but it was created to suit a modified Bachmann A2 chassis and the whole of the front of the boiler is permanently filled with shot and resin, cast in situ...

Apart from demonstrating the feasibility of using the Hornby chassis for the only types of resin A2 conversions that still make any sense now that Hornby offer the others RTR, an option that could just possibly still interest others, use of this chassis would save me one future job, as believe it or not, I still have only one completed Thompson Pacific chassis of my own which has to take turns under my A2/2 and A2/3 bodies!

The possibility of an A2/1 is obviously there too, for those who fancy it. The rear frames of the chassis would have to be cropped a bit, and the A4 cab spliced into the A3 body a little further forward, or, if you have money to burn, convert the very expensive new Bachmann V2 body...

Edited March 16, 2023 by gr.king
Tidying up grammar!

[davidw]

5 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

 

 

Excellent pictures Ollie, many thanks. I agree that the severely cropped weight, held by just the aft screw, might still do the job of holding the motor. Batter still, if there's space within the body for a thin brass strap over the rear of the weight, with its ends fixed by screws into new tapped holes in the sides of the main block.

What's it for Gents? Well I'm tempted to see whether one of these units can be employed under the home-made body I already have for A2/2 Lord President with original shortened Mikado boiler and vee-front cab. That was made from a butchered A3 body, with new front portion and A4 type cab from resin. Had I made it with the Hornby chassis in mind, I would have simply included a long enough slot in the base to take that big weight, but it was created to suit a modified Bachmann A2 chassis and the whole of the front of the boiler is permanently filled with shot and resin, cast in situ...

Apart from demonstrating the feasibility of using the Hornby chassis for the only types of resin A2 conversions that still makes any sense now that Hornby offer the others RTR, an option that could just possibly still interest others, use of this chassis would save me one future job, as believe it or not, I still have only one completed Thompson Pacific chassis of my own which has to take turns under my A2/2 and A2/3 bodies!

The possibility of an A2/1 is obviously there too, for those who fancy it. The rear frames of the chassis would have to be cropped a bit, and the A4 cab spliced into the A3 body a little further forward, or, if you have money to burn, convert the very expensive new Bachmann V2 body...

It would be interesting to see if a 60503/4 were possible. My 60520 - conversion using your parts - stands up very well against 60511, 60516 and 60523. 60516 being a DJH kit and the other two Hornby models. I intend geting at least two further A2/3's and another A2/2

Edited March 16, 2023 by davidw

[John Tomlinson]

47 minutes ago, davidw said:

It would be interesting to see if a 60503/4 were possible. My 60520 - conversion using your parts - stands up very well against 60511, 60516 and 60523. 60516 being a DJH kit and the other two Hornby models. I intend geting at least two further A2/3's and another A2/2

 

If you fancy a bit of respraying, Hattons are now offering "Chamoissaire" in LNER green for £109!

 

John.

[davidw]

17 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

 

If you fancy a bit of respraying, Hattons are now offering "Chamoissaire" in LNER green for £109!

 

John.

It's crossed my mind.

[zr2498]

3 hours ago, davidw said:

It's crossed my mind.

Good chance to practice the painting and lining that I have just recently been tutored on at Missenden.

I assume a repaint and new lining could get this LNER green to Era 5 (late) without any other changes to the construction and fittings?

[davidw]

15 minutes ago, zr2498 said:

Good chance to practice the painting and lining that I have just recently been tutored on at Missenden.

I assume a repaint and new lining could get this LNER green to Era 5 (late) without any other changes to the construction and fittings?

Depends on what you want to model. Boiler and chimney may differ. Also lower the lamp iron and put a number plate below the the handrail. Not impossible

[Dominion]

11 hours ago, davidw said:

It would be interesting to see if a 60503/4 were possible. My 60520 - conversion using your parts - stands up very well against 60511, 60516 and 60523. 60516 being a DJH kit and the other two Hornby models. I intend geting at least two further A2/3's and another A2/2

 

Here is my version of the A2/2 modelled to approximate the original P2 firebox and boiler as shortened by Thompson. This is instead of the A2/3 or Peppercorn boilers that 4 of the A2/2a got later, as modelled by Hornby.

 

So it would be the same as your 60503/4 question David. I just did mine as 2001 as it carried that number for a while after rebuild. It uses Graeme’s resin parts at the front and the etch for the motion too, following the chassis modification method Graeme developed. The cab and firebox sides and running plate are from a damaged Hornby P2. The boiler and firebox top are from a Hornby A1.

 

It is far from perfect but it gives me a reasonable representation of an A2/2 as they were during the LNER  period. No painting or lining yet either except some black parts, what you see is from the Hornby donors. 

[gr.king]

That's a clever combination of body parts, even preserving the paintwork.

[micklner]

6 hours ago, Dominion said:

 

Here is my version of the A2/2 modelled to approximate the original P2 firebox and boiler as shortened by Thompson. This is instead of the A2/3 or Peppercorn boilers that 4 of the A2/2a got later, as modelled by Hornby.

 

So it would be the same as your 60503/4 question David. I just did mine as 2001 as it carried that number for a while after rebuild. It uses Graeme’s resin parts at the front and the etch for the motion too, following the chassis modification method Graeme developed. The cab and firebox sides and running plate are from a damaged Hornby P2. The boiler and firebox top are from a Hornby A1.

 

It is far from perfect but it gives me a reasonable representation of an A2/2 as they were during the LNER  period. No painting or lining yet either except some black parts, what you see is from the Hornby donors. 

I presume on Bachmann A2 chassis ?. Well dome getting the Hornby parts to fit if correct assumption.

[davidw]

7 hours ago, Dominion said:

 

Here is my version of the A2/2 modelled to approximate the original P2 firebox and boiler as shortened by Thompson. This is instead of the A2/3 or Peppercorn boilers that 4 of the A2/2a got later, as modelled by Hornby.

 

So it would be the same as your 60503/4 question David. I just did mine as 2001 as it carried that number for a while after rebuild. It uses Graeme’s resin parts at the front and the etch for the motion too, following the chassis modification method Graeme developed. The cab and firebox sides and running plate are from a damaged Hornby P2. The boiler and firebox top are from a Hornby A1.

 

It is far from perfect but it gives me a reasonable representation of an A2/2 as they were during the LNER  period. No painting or lining yet either except some black parts, what you see is from the Hornby donors. 

 

Agree with Mick it's an exceptional bit of modelling

[Dominion]

Yes it is the Bachmann chassis. I had modified that already for an A2/3 but hadn’t done much of the “Graeme method” body modifications when Hornby announced their A2/3 so it didn’t get finished.  I think the A2/2 had a different motion bracket face so that’s not quite right. 
The body is riding a little high in the front which I should work on a bit more on some time. The steam ejector pipe angles up incorrectly to which I should also address … later ! 
The loss of the Bachmann A2 body and running plate at the front loses a lot of weight, so the smoke box is loaded with Canadian  1 cent coins which are a perfect fit for the resin casting, so it actually pulls quite well now. 

[Farang]

 

If you fancy a bit of respraying, Hattons are now offering "Chamossaire" in LNER green for £109!

 

I have just ordered one as at the price it was too good to miss. I'm too young to remember the LNER but did see all the Pacifics at KX late '50s early '60s.

I just hope there is nothing wrong with it and Hornby are just clearing an over-stock at a knock down price.

[gr.king]

3 hours ago, Farang said:

I have just ordered one as at the price it was too good to miss. I'm too young to remember the LNER but did see all the Pacifics at KX late '50s early '60s.

I just hope there is nothing wrong with it and Hornby are just clearing an over-stock at a knock down price.

Perhaps you'll be kind enough to let us know whether it is defect-free and a good smooth runner when received?

[Ollie K]

On 18/03/2023 at 16:57, gr.king said:

Perhaps you'll be kind enough to let us know whether it is defect-free and a good smooth runner when received?

Mine is one of the Hattons bargain bin examples: not in my usual prewar modelling period but at that price it seemed worth a punt for a new-tooling Pacific. It’s next in the renumbering/renaming/weathering queue.

 

Insipid green notwithstanding, it’s spot on. Running plate straight (unlike the A2/2s) no loose details in the box and a smooth runner. Massive discount seems to be to clear stock of a slow-selling livery as opposed to shifting a flakey product.