maico Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 (edited) adb968008 photo shows how neat the motor installation is on these. Looks an excellent model throughout. Edited October 8, 2023 by maico 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 On 06/10/2023 at 00:48, Wheatley said: There's a slight bevel, but it's hard to see and even harder to photograph on a phone. Not nearly as pronounced as on the Gibson drivers under my DJH one. Looks a fantastic model, and lovely and smooth. Couple of comments: 1. Didn't see the regulator - is it different to the traditional large lever arm? 2. Speedo cable - are the wheel centres still plastic? I find I can realign speedo cables to be better-centred, which obviously reduces wear and looks much better - carefully of course. Al. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 4 minutes ago, atom3624 said: Couple of comments: Your comments/questions are all answered on the previous page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 2 hours ago, Porcy Mane said: Your comments/questions are all answered on the previous page. Thanks. I saw the mention of cast centres - unfortunate. A wobbly speedo would drive me nuts. No mention of the regulator that I saw - oversight? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted October 8, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2023 (edited) 29 minutes ago, atom3624 said: Thanks. I saw the mention of cast centres - unfortunate. A wobbly speedo would drive me nuts. No mention of the regulator that I saw - oversight? Al. flickr url its in a different location, ahead of the driver. I remain to be convinced on the gauge glasses though, they could be better. Edited October 8, 2023 by adb968008 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium New Haven Neil Posted October 8, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2023 Here's a real one a fortnight ago. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 1 hour ago, adb968008 said: its in a different location, ahead of the driver. I remain to be convinced on the gauge glasses though, they could be better. ... and like the 9F, no representation of the cladding join and associated screws down the apex of the boiler. Easily rectified but why should we need to that? 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted October 8, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2023 1 minute ago, Porcy Mane said: ... and like the 9F, no representation of the cladding join and associated screws down the apex of the boiler. Easily rectified but why should we need to that? Well - that's a new one! Normally, we hear complaints of boiler joints that shouldn't be there! CJI. 2 12 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 I need to remove and replace a digit in the number of my newly arrived Standard Class 2MT 2-6-0 so it represents one of the class based at Bank Hall in the late 1950s. Can anyone recommend the source of suitable transfers that will match the size and colour of the factory applied numbers. please? Stan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamingWales Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 18 minutes ago, Stanley Melrose said: I need to remove and replace a digit in the number of my newly arrived Standard Class 2MT 2-6-0 so it represents one of the class based at Bank Hall in the late 1950s. Can anyone recommend the source of suitable transfers that will match the size and colour of the factory applied numbers. please? Stan Maybe easier doing all the digits rather than trying to match colour and size as they won't be perfect. Railtec do full custom transfers where you can get the number you want as a single transfer so easy to apply and no wonky numbers either 4 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 Many thanks, I'll investigate! Stan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted October 9, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 9, 2023 Hi Stan, A bit like you I will be renumbering one of these Standard Class 2MT's. Like Steaming Wales mentioned it's perhaps best to redo the whole number. Steve at Railtec provides as excellent service. Here is the total renumber pack: ttps://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=3637 Gently remove the factory printed number with T-cut applied with a cotton bud/coctail stick. The shiny surface will be just right for transfers. Use Johnson's Floor polish to help setting and adherence once happy with your positioning of the numbers. The 3D printed numberplates and shed code plates are the best around. Let the transfer lift off the backing paper and allow it to dry on a ceramic tile/plate. Once dry using enamel varnish fix the plates into position using a cocktail stick for fine adjustment. My preference for cabside numbers is Fox Transfers: https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/steam-cabside-numbering-3-sizes-58502 These are applied individually. Again remove the factory printed number as above. Use a piece of Tamiya marking tape cut to size height wise to ensure the numerals are straight. Mark the centre point and work from inside out having centred the middle number. Allow to dry before using the floor polish to set. Cheers, Mark 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 My 78010 arrived in WestOz today, seven days after despatch by Kernow! Unboxed and run in, I am very pleased with the look and performance of the model. Detailing parts to be attached tomorrow for some layout running, and judicious use of paintbrush and black paint to lose some of the more obvious 'bling'. Well done, Hornby! Cheers from Oz, Peter C. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 The new model is clearly out of Hornby's top drawer, but I would be torn if my location justified a 2MT of LMS/Ivatt or BR/Riddles design. It's the ugly exterior of the BR cab which the Hornby model replicates very accurately with full on lack of charm. The Bachmann, inferior as a model, is much prettier because of the tidier cab design... Wonder if I am alone in this? 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halvarras Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 On 06/10/2023 at 13:32, coronach said: Those buffers don't look like they've been pushed fully home......? 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted October 13, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 13, 2023 15 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: The new model is clearly out of Hornby's top drawer, but I would be torn if my location justified a 2MT of LMS/Ivatt or BR/Riddles design. It's the ugly exterior of the BR cab which the Hornby model replicates very accurately with full on lack of charm. The Bachmann, inferior as a model, is much prettier because of the tidier cab design... Wonder if I am alone in this? Agree with all of that apart from the Bachmann model being markedly inferior - depends what you want from a model I suppose but I find my 10+ years old Bachmann pair to be well made, well finished and sweet running with decent traction. They also have proper Stanier pattern wheels. To match the Hornby model all Bachmann really need to do is provide be some representation of the inner frames (I like what Hornby have done on the 2MT here - just provided a drop down to suggest the frames) , neater loco to tender wiring and tender pick ups and AWS fittings for later '60s versions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 I think mine is fabulous. Credit to Hornby, they seem to have done many things right with this model. The only gripe I have is the poor communication through the process which created much frustration for many. If they can improve that aspect, I think it will improve their image and reputation no end. 3 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium coronach Posted October 13, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2023 36 minutes ago, Halvarras said: Those buffers don't look like they've been pushed fully home......? Yes you are correct. They are pushed in now though 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium coronach Posted October 13, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2023 I operate Whinburgh and Slitrigg using 3 link couplings and I am disappointed that, notwithstanding the superb detail exhibited by many model locomotives, in many cases the construction makes it difficult to install realistic screw couplings that are effective in coupling to a train. The dummy moulded hook that is provided can’t be adapted to accept links. Sometimes it is possible to drill out a slot that will accept a brass hook but in this case I think that would be difficult. Suggestions and comments gratefully accepted. 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said: Agree with all of that apart from the Bachmann model being markedly inferior - depends what you want from a model I suppose but I find my 10+ years old Bachmann pair to be well made, well finished and sweet running with decent traction. They also have proper Stanier pattern wheels. I am perfectly happy with my Bachmann models roughly contemporary with the 2MT, many of which have been fiddled with to load them with lead ballast for effective traction: and it is in this respect that the Hornby scores very highly for me, on all their metal bodied smaller tender locos I own the mass is a real asset. Edited October 13, 2023 by 34theletterbetweenB&D typo 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Markwj Posted October 13, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 13, 2023 I don’t have one of these or do I intend to buy one but pleased to hear all the positive reports of this model and hope it bodes well for future models from Hornby. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 14, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2023 22 hours ago, coronach said: I operate Whinburgh and Slitrigg using 3 link couplings and I am disappointed that, notwithstanding the superb detail exhibited by many model locomotives, in many cases the construction makes it difficult to install realistic screw couplings that are effective in coupling to a train. The dummy moulded hook that is provided can’t be adapted to accept links. Sometimes it is possible to drill out a slot that will accept a brass hook but in this case I think that would be difficult. Suggestions and comments gratefully accepted. I haven't got one of these (yet), but I also need functioning screw link couplings on my locos. Are the buffer beams on this model metal, then? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted October 14, 2023 Share Posted October 14, 2023 1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said: I haven't got one of these (yet), but I also need functioning screw link couplings on my locos. Are the buffer beams on this model metal, then? I presume so Captain. A bigger problem is that this class has a horizontal slot, rather than the much more common vertical slot. That is going to present a problem. A tight twist in the shank, or a very narrow, height wise, shank? Neither option looks an easy solution in respect of functionality and appearance. Will get a chance to look on Monday as mine is on the way. Bernard 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 14, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2023 55 minutes ago, Bernard Lamb said: A bigger problem is that this class has a horizontal slot, rather than the much more common vertical slot. That is going to present a problem. A tight twist in the shank, or a very narrow, height wise, shank? Neither option looks an easy solution in respect of functionality and appearance. I have had some success in the past, epoxying a very narrow (height-wise) Smiths shank into a small aperture on the buffer beam, but that really needs a gap behind said buffer beam, to bend a small section of shank around at 90°. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheatley Posted October 14, 2023 Share Posted October 14, 2023 (edited) The front buffer beam appears to be part of the diecast footplate. But - there is a plastic hook so presumably a hole, and there is a slot/gap between the buffer beam and the diecast chassis to take the bent shank. The splodge in the foreground is not factory spec (failed attempt to use Rocket glue to hold the steps on !). Rear buffer beam is plastic. Edited October 14, 2023 by Wheatley 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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