Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

[KeithHC]

It is interesting to see that 4mm and 3mm scales are written about but I cannot see much reference to Wayne’s products in 2mm. However as I have said before the system Wayne has come up with is a game changer no matter what the scale is. Also it is interesting to see the relevant scale/gauge societies taking interest and buying into the system. Could we see in future Irish 4mm track, S scale and to match the upcoming 7mm L and B locos even 0-14. Too me the system seams scalable and long may it last. Just think in the future we might go to Brighton to visit British Fine scalerama.

 

Keith

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, whart57 said:

 

A separate topic was started, but it covers exactly the same ground as here, and most of those following also follow this thread. As I pointed out earlier, the 3mm scale versions - B6 only so far - are literally the EM point scaled down by three quarters, though as Wayne uses the appropriate Templot template you may know of any detail differences I am not aware of. The instructions supplied are the 4mm scale ones and the 3mm scale modellers who use them come looking here for tips.

 

As this thread is about using Wayne's excellent kits my belief is that there is so much overlap between using an EM kit and using a 3mm scale one that the discussions could be combined in a single thread.

 

Hi,

 

The mystery is where are these 3mm kits available? They are not listed on Wayne's web site. If it's a B-6, it can't just be scaled down version of an EM B-7. Peco make a B-6 turnout for the EMGS, perhaps it is scaled down from that?

 

My point was that this topic is primarily about the Finetrax kits available from https://www.britishfinescale.com/ which lists Standard 00, 00-SF, EM and N. The N Gauge kits already have several topics on RMweb about them.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Wayne Kinney]

10 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

The mystery is where are these 3mm kits available?

The 2FS and 3mm kits are currently only available directly from the respective society shops. I will be adding them to my website in due course, just busy with other items/orders right now

[martin_wynne]

5 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

The 2FS and 3mm kits are currently only available directly from the respective society shops. I will be adding them to my website in due course, just busy with other items/orders right now

 

Thanks Wayne. So they are branded Finetrax and available to non-members of the societies to order from those shops?

 

Unlike the EMGS B-6 which is not Peco-branded and available only to EMGS members.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Wayne Kinney]

Just now, martin_wynne said:

Thanks Wayne. So they are branded Finetrax and available to non-members of the societies to order from those shops?

 

Unlike the EMGS B-6 which is not Peco-branded and available only to EMGS members.

Hi Martin,

 

They are branded Finetrax, only members can purchase from the respective society shops. They will be available to non members once listed on my website. Members get a slight discount for buying them  from the society shop.

 

There maybe the opportunity for non members to purchase at shows, but you would need to check with the societies on that.

[Compound2632]

On 16/03/2022 at 21:27, martin_wynne said:

But modellers love them! 

 

One has to ask, why?

 

And really, should one pander to their unprototypical desires?

[hayfield]

9 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:

 

One has to ask, why?

 

And really, should one pander to their unprototypical desires?

 

There is a large following of modellers who love the ability to easily make formations, in their own mind its correct and looks just like the prototype. Before anyone starts jumping up and down that's fine and I have no issues with it

 

In most prototypical situations a so called Y turnout is asymmetrical, but then its far more common to see a turnout with a slight curve than a straight one but we accept straight turnouts as the norm. 

[Compound2632]

1 hour ago, hayfield said:

There is

 

Both my questions were intended to be rhetorical, with the first one also attempting wit.

[NFWEM57]

3 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

And really, should one pander to their unprototypical desires?

You're going to dislike my EM conversions then..!!!! (wit)

Edited March 18, 2022 by NFWEM57
typo

[bradfordbuffer]

9 hours ago, whart57 said:

 

A separate topic was started, but it covers exactly the same ground as here, and most of those following also follow this thread. As I pointed out earlier, the 3mm scale versions - B6 only so far - are literally the EM point scaled down by three quarters, though as Wayne uses the appropriate Templot template you may know of any detail differences I am not aware of. The instructions supplied are the 4mm scale ones and the 3mm scale modellers who use them come looking here for tips.

 

As this thread is about using Wayne's excellent kits my belief is that there is so much overlap between using an EM kit and using a 3mm scale one that the discussions could be combined in a single thread.

Only 2mm difference from 3mm to oo!

[NFWEM57]

Very quite.. Has everybody moved elsewhere after the debate? If so where?  

[KeithHC]

26 minutes ago, NFWEM57 said:

Very quite.. Has everybody moved elsewhere after the debate? If so where?  

We are all lying low…….. Also we are keeping out of the way to allow Wayne time to make diamonds, slips, turnouts in 00 EM 2mm 3mm et al.

 

Keith

[NFWEM57]

OK, back to the HST conversion whilst I wait...!

[Enterprisingwestern]

On 18/03/2022 at 15:46, Compound2632 said:

 

One has to ask, why?

 

And really, should one pander to their unprototypical desires?

 

An easy answer, British Rail never had to pander to a 6' x 4' board, a third bedroom or a garage to fit their prototypical trackwork formations in, a Y point can be a useful space saver for a modeller.

 

Mike.

[Compound2632]

59 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

An easy answer, British Rail never had to pander to a 6' x 4' board

 

i'll give you the third bedroom or the garage - the latter being my case, 16' 6" x 7' 9" - but I doubt that anyone who is using these points is building a layout on a 6' x 4' board, unless perhaps it's an inglenook with scenic depth.

[Dominion]

This is not a never before seen curious formation.

I am just experimenting with different rail and timber/sleepers as I consider where to join the different elements in the scissors formation hybrid I am working on.

On the left is one of Wayne's track bases. On the right are Peco bullhead flextrack sleepers.

From the front the rail is Wayne's, Peco, C&L, Peco, Wayne's.

All three rail sections fit both chair types here and all seem to come to the same level.

(The C&L rail is not quite snug in the printed chair bases but I think it will work fine at the joins.)

I think I can mix and match whatever is most convenient for the different joining locations.

[hayfield]

10 hours ago, Dominion said:

 

 

 

(The C&L rail is not quite snug in the printed chair bases but I think it will work fine at the joins.)

I think I can mix and match whatever is most convenient for the different joining locations.

 

It depends which C&L rail you have, Phil used to use the generic code 75 drawing tool the company producing the rail had, but I think like the 7mm rail now has his own 4mm tool which is much nearer scale.

 

Do you have a scale plan to work to ?

Edited March 21, 2022 by hayfield

[Dominion]

Thanks John. The C&L rail is from a few years ago when I visited Pete at his premises while I was in the UK.

Yes my plan is from the ever useful Templot.

[NFWEM57]

For info, the Double Slip and Crossing in EM and OO are now on sale.  Received my double slip earlier this which I purchased last week.  Plan to install on my test track soon and run the 5MT through it and upload a video.

 

Patrick

[martin_wynne]

@Wayne Kinney          

 

Hi Wayne,

 

Looking at your instructions for the double slip, I think you have missed mentioning the need to add dropper wires to the inner switch blades (my additional text in blue):

 

 

Admittedly most builders will know what to do, but as these kits are aimed at beginners it's probably best to explain everything in full. Without droppers on those switch blades they will be relying on blade contact with their stock rails which is notoriously unreliable.

 

Have you considered adding links from the check rails to the adjacent running rails in your kits? It can improve pickup and running considerably. If a wheel rubs against a check rail the rolling action can lift it momentarily off the running rail, interrupting the pickup. Having live check rails is one reason why soldered copper-clad construction works so reliably.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[bradfordbuffer]

2 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

@Wayne Kinney          

 

Hi Wayne,

 

Looking at your instructions for the double slip, I think you have missed mentioning the need to add dropper wires to the inner switch blades (my additional text in blue):

 

 

Admittedly most builders will know what to do, but as these kits are aimed at beginners it's probably best to explain everything in full. Without droppers on those switch blades they will be relying on blade contact with their stock rails which is notoriously unreliable.

 

Have you considered adding links from the check rails to the adjacent running rails in your kits? It can improve pickup and running considerably. If a wheel rubs against a check rail the rolling action can lift it momentarily off the running rail, interrupting the pickup. Having live check rails is one reason why soldered copper-clad construction works so reliably.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Thanks for tip on live check rails! Just about to wire up the first point kit I have completed....EVER! In 3mm 14.2mm gauge...l will link check rails with stock rails tonight...get it stuck to a board few lengths of Society's flexible track....just in time to receive my RTP class 08s in 14.2mm gauge

 

Thank you british finescale 

Edited April 3, 2022 by bradfordbuffer

[bradfordbuffer]

3 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Thanks for tip on live check rails! Just about to wire up the first point kit I have completed....EVER! In 3mm 14.2mm gauge...l will link check rails with stock rails tonight...get it stuck to a board few lengths of Society's flexible track....just in time to receive my RTP class 08s in 14.2mm gauge

 

Thank you british finescale 

Hi Wayne, 

In light of Martins suggestion for 'live wing' for future developments would it be possible to include a additional web for any one who would want live wings! I'm not quite happy cutting under rail web in this area! 

Any thoughts?

G

[BWsTrains]

9 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

Have you considered adding links from the check rails to the adjacent running rails in your kits? It can improve pickup and running considerably. If a wheel rubs against a check rail the rolling action can lift it momentarily off the running rail, interrupting the pickup. Having live check rails is one reason why soldered copper-clad construction works so reliably.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

Thanks Martin.

 

This is a silver lining for me as I'm waiting for my remaining BF kits, mainly the Single Slip so what had delayed my build for some time is now a blessing in disguise. Wires will be added as you recommend to link up check rails on all my kits, I had wondered about the benefit of that but regrettably not enough to ask.

 

Regarding @bradfordbuffer 's request for support webbing, I've successfully curved most of my built kits and Martin's earlier post shows the places where cuts should be made. One of these locations each side can easily be used for the bridging wires to check rails and re-glued after soldering. Hence I don't see any need for a change to the moldings which at this stage with multiple kits and multiple gauges would not be trivial.

 

Colin

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by BWsTrains

[bradfordbuffer]

10 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

 

Thanks Martin.

 

This is a silver lining for me as I'm waiting for my remaining BF kits, mainly the Single Slip so what had delayed my build for some time is now a blessing in disguise. Wires will be added as you recommend to link up check rails on all my kits, I had wondered about the benefit of that but regrettably not enough to ask.

 

Regarding @bradfordbuffer 's request for support webbing, I've successfully curved most of my built kits and Martin's earlier post shows the places where cuts should be made. One of these locations each side can easily be used for the bridging wires to check rails and re-glued after soldering. Hence I don't see any need for a change to the moldings which at this stage with multiple kits and multiple gauges would not be trivial.

 

Colin

 

Hi thanks for suggestion for re glueing ...the suggestion for Webing was not to retro fitting to existing kits just for future  developments for the range...as a newbie to point building all suggestions welcome ...

G

[mogman1969]

an outside slip could be useful too