Help in handling couplings

[G.M.R.]

Having successfully shifted my focus from 4mm to 7mm over the past year, I am battling with a fundamental concern over the operational handling of couplings.

 

I don't have a lot of stock yet, but the RTR locos and Coaches I do have are fitted with screw link couplings which sit neatly under the buffer beams, almost out of sight, even from the side. So far I have not found any satisfactory way of coupling up the stock whilst on the track. Even uncoupling is difficult from above, so I use a cocktail stick as a shunting pole from the side.

 

I have made a small wagon from a kit which has larger, rather clunky, three link couplings, which I can at least see from above, but even these are hard to manipulate onto the hook of the adjoining vehicle.

 

I know that there is a wealth of experience here, and although I have failed so far to find an answer from my searches, I would be very grateful for any helpful advice or experience as to how best to go about this essential part of operating my newly constructed layouts.

 

 

[F-UnitMad]

A good solution here:-

 

[brossard]

It does take practice to use 3/screw link couplings.  I made myself a couple of tools:

 

 

Simple enough and they work pretty well.  Coupling wagons to locos and to themselves can be fiddly but is doable.  I think you need to develop your muscle memory for this.

 

For coupling corridor coaches to locos, you will probably need to cut out the lower ledge on the gangway.  Otherwise you can't access the coupling.  For coupling coaches together (not something I have done yet),  I plan to use Kadees embedded in the buffer beam instead of underneath.

 

After spending nigh on 30 years having to put up with horrible 00 couplings, I find it a delight to be able to use prototype couplings in 0.

John

Edited March 2, 2021 by brossard

[G.M.R.]

Thank you both. I will have a go at producing both types and see how I get on.

[Simond]

If you’re making a shunter’s pole, do as the prototype, and make your hook a little like the last turn of a corkscrew, you’ll be able to spin it to get the pole out.  It’s terribly frustrating to couple a reluctant vehicle, and then either flick the link off again, or worse, flick the wagon off the track!

 

I would simply not bother trying to couple rakes of corridor coaches with screw couplers, Kadees are a good solution, as Brossard suggested, there are other solutions for semi-permanent couplings if your layout permits.

 

atb

Simon

[brossard]

1 hour ago, Simond said:

If you’re making a shunter’s pole, do as the prototype, and make your hook a little like the last turn of a corkscrew, you’ll be able to spin it to get the pole out.  It’s terribly frustrating to couple a reluctant vehicle, and then either flick the link off again, or worse, flick the wagon off the track!

Very good suggestion about the corkscrew end Simon.  It can be a fiddle to disengage the hook.  Must try to do that.

 

John

[F-UnitMad]

12 hours ago, Simond said:

If you’re making a shunter’s pole, do as the prototype, and make your hook a little like the last turn of a corkscrew, you’ll be able to spin it to get the pole out.

Cue a frantic search for pictures of real shunter's poles*!! Your post made me realise I'm not sure I've ever seen one properly.

 

* stop sniggering at the back, you dirty minded lot!!

[Simond]

there was a discussion in these august pages on the subject some years back...

 

search "shunters pole"

 

I found this, but I was looking for another discussion, in which the real thing was photographed.

 

 

 

Edited March 3, 2021 by Simond

[F-UnitMad]

Quick 'google' threw up this interesting blog page:-

https://janfordsworld.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-role-of-shunter.html?m=1

[51235]

Hello all

For 3-link couplings, I have changed the bottom link with a home made soft iron wire link. I then used a magnetised pole (in reality a scribe with a neo magnet attached to the "non-pointy" end. The magnet need to be stong enough to lift the link, but not strong enough to lift the wagon. I used the scribe as it was to hand and wanted to see if I could couple without a hook. The technique is to lowere the pole, engage and lift the link and "stroke" it over the hook so that the link is released from the magnetised pole and falls into place on the hook. Uncoupling is a doddle as the pole lifts the link and the pole is removed. It works well in both 4mm and 7mm.

So far I have not tried screw couplings, due to the tight radius in the bottom link.

Carriages, especially with corridor connections will always be a problem - Kadees seem to be the simplest solution, especially in fixed rakes.

Have fun

Andy

[G.M.R.]

Took delivery of Lionheart Mk1 coaches yesterday. They are lovely and internally within the rake include already fitted buckeye couplings. But on the ends of the rakes - outer end of the BSKs, they have screwlink.

 

Connect the rake to a Hattons Original Flying Scotsman with corridor tender ........

 

I couldn't do it!!

 

Even with ideas posted above. I ended up connecting the two outer screw links together with a piece of wire, just to be able to run the train around the garden. I need to be able to remove from the track and replace when I want to play.

 

Any ideas?

[47606odin]

18 minutes ago, G.M.R. said:

Took delivery of Lionheart Mk1 coaches yesterday. They are lovely and internally within the rake include already fitted buckeye couplings. But on the ends of the rakes - outer end of the BSKs, they have screwlink.

 

Connect the rake to a Hattons Original Flying Scotsman with corridor tender ........

 

I couldn't do it!!

 

Even with ideas posted above. I ended up connecting the two outer screw links together with a piece of wire, just to be able to run the train around the garden. I need to be able to remove from the track and replace when I want to play.

 

Any ideas?

buckeyes, like the real thing

[G.M.R.]

9 minutes ago, 47606odin said:

buckeyes, like the real thing

Guessed that might be suggested. I am used to NEM sockets in 4mm stock. Looking at fitting Kadees or similar to these is worrying at first. Not that there isn't space, but the thought of starting to hack around some very expensive items is of concern. If anyone has photos of how it's done, I would appreciate seeing them.

[Stubby47]

No idea if this would work, but what about magnetic corridor connections ?

[G.M.R.]

1 minute ago, Stubby47 said:

No idea if this would work, but what about magnetic corridor connections ?

Actually the coaches are already fitted with them to keep the gangways together within the rake in addition to the buckeyes. 

 

I could try fitting some to the loco tender, but I think the weight of the coaches would likely be too much pull for the magnets to hold.

 

but appreciate the idea

[brossard]

37 minutes ago, G.M.R. said:

Took delivery of Lionheart Mk1 coaches yesterday. They are lovely and internally within the rake include already fitted buckeye couplings. But on the ends of the rakes - outer end of the BSKs, they have screwlink.

 

Connect the rake to a Hattons Original Flying Scotsman with corridor tender ........

 

I couldn't do it!!

 

Even with ideas posted above. I ended up connecting the two outer screw links together with a piece of wire, just to be able to run the train around the garden. I need to be able to remove from the track and replace when I want to play.

 

Any ideas?

 

Sadly the "buckeyes" fitted are under the buffer beam.  Should be in the BB.  I left them alone since it would be too much trouble to try to fix this.

 

This is my Heljan coach end:

 

 

0 gauge Kadee mounted in the BB.

 

John

[G.M.R.]

2 hours ago, brossard said:

 

Sadly the "buckeyes" fitted are under the buffer beam.  Should be in the BB.  I left them alone since it would be too much trouble to try to fix this.

 

John

 

You got me thinking with your helpful photo there John.

 

I had already had to repair the gangway assembly so knew how that came apart. I removed it and then fixed one of the supplied end doors inside the coach using blacktack.

 

Now the hook of the coupling is visible and similar to the non corridor coaches I have so I can get the screwlink from the loco over it.

 

Thanks for triggering the thought process

 

A spot of black paint over the two magnets that are showing on the buffer beam and it will look fine for me.

 

In hindsight, I would have been better off with a non-corridor tender, but there you go.

[brossard]

Glad to have helped.  Hope everything works for you now.

 

John

[Mike Selby]

John,

 

Many thanks for your extremely useful solution - which works perfectly!  Take Care.

 

Mike