OO Gauge 3-link Couplings

[BR60103]

My comment about pulling out the buffer beams was for kit built cars.  Goes back a long time and probably was K's cast metal and Airfix plastic, using the glues that a schoolboy could buy 60 years ago.

 

[ianLMS]

I have a variety of 3-link couplings and Instanter as well as screw links for the passenger type rolling stock. 

 

Slaters/Romfords are over size but work well. I trim the tail, file it down to slot in the hole in the headstock and bend it to 90 degrees. Once it is pushed through the hole it sits neatly behind the headstock where i can solder or superglue it. Sprung buffers where possible, but many of mine dont have them.

 

I do prefer the chain from Brassmasters for the 3-links. Much finer and easier to bend and have 2 size options. 

Edited July 26, 2022 by ianLMS

[Il Grifone]

I made my 3 links from copper wire. This oxidises to a nice 'rust' colour, avoiding painting. The prototype dimension is 10" new (there are probably exceptions*), but I allowed for wear and wound them around two pieces of 2mm diameter rod.

 

The instanter (I believe it was originally 'instanta, but luckily they thought better of it) was indeed a GWR innovation (see below!) from c1908. (Apparently the patent dates from 1895 - couldn't find it of course!)

[petejones]

10 hours ago, ianLMS said:

I do prefer the chain from Brassmasters for the 3-links. Much finer and easier to bend and have 2 size options. 

 

I don't suppose you could measure one of the links could you? Or at least tell me if they are shorter than the Smith's links?

[Nick Holliday]

Just for the record this is an RCH drawing from 1923 of a three link coupling from the https://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~adrian/steam/RCHWagons/index.html website

 

[ianLMS]

12 hours ago, petejones said:

 

I don't suppose you could measure one of the links could you? Or at least tell me if they are shorter than the Smith's links?

Will take a look tonight. Brassmasters do a thicker prototype sized link and a thinner one for those with tighter curves. Choice of either copper or soft chain links. 

 

Edited July 27, 2022 by ianLMS

[Compound2632]

On 24/07/2022 at 21:22, Il Grifone said:

coupling jolts ripping the headstock off

 

Absolutely prototypical. 

 

(At least for wood-framed wagons in the 19th century. I recently learned from a post on here somewhere that the old Bromsgrove wagon works had a floor paved with old headstock timbers.)

[ianLMS]

I have the thinner chain. Links are 4.5mm long. Slaters are the same length but use thicker wire and are narrower. Romfords are just over 4mm long and thicker still.

 

Brassmasters are nearest ruler, then slaters, then Romfords.

 

 

[gwrrob]

9 hours ago, ianLMS said:

Will take a look tonight. Brassmasters do a thicker prototype sized link and a thinner one for those with tighter curves. Choice of either copper or soft chain links. 

 

 

Excellent looking but shame about them having the fifteen sheets minimum order though.☹️

[Captain Kernow]

I've used 3-links (and screw links) in 4mm scale for over 45 years, including under exhibition conditions.

 

What I do is not necessarily going to be the best way for others, but I offer it in good faith, because I know that it works pretty well for me:

 

- Smiths hooks - overscale yes, but you need every bit of help you can get in terms of seeing the 'target' under exhibition conditions

 

- I use Smiths links - they do a smaller 'finer scale' one in the brass and also both sizes in the steel

 

- Instanter couplings are fine, if fitted correctly to an appropriate wagon, but they can be a PITA under exhibition conditions

 

- the Ambis steel 'D' links for screw couplings are just about the only game in town for such steel links, because the late, lamented Exactoscale version is no longer available. They need to be bent into the 'D' shape, but be very careful and take the bending steadily, otherwise they can be prone to break

 

- I don't spring the couplings either - never had any problems in that regard

 

- sprung buffers are helpful, though, especially when propelling stock

 

- I shorten the Smiths coupling shank by at least half and then thin down the part that will be going into the buffer beam by at least two thirds. I then file the very end of the slimmed down shank to a fine point. This helps locate the shank in the buffer beam hole.

 

- if it is a plastic buffer beam, I normally drill a 0.5mm hole in the centre, where the point of the thinned-down Smiths hook will go. I then hold the fully assembled coupling hook (with links attached) in a slim pair of pliers with insulated handles and heat the tip of the shank up in a gas flame. I then quickly but carefully insert the hot and pointy end into the 0.5mm hole in the buffer beam and carefully push the shank home, until the part that you've left at full thickness reaches the buffer beam. I've been doing this for many years and if you are starting out doing this, I'd advise have a practice run or two first, to get the feel of it. Obviously take all the usual precautions when working next to a gas hob flame.

 

- I have always used pencil torches with hooks attached, but the real game changer for me over the last few years has been magnetic coupling hooks. Dave Franks at Lanarkshire Model Supplies used to sell them attached to a pencil torch, but they are not available any longer. I then made my own, purchasing some extremely small (2mm x 1mm) magnets, which were mounted on the end of a 0.8mm piece of brass rod, which in turn was attached to a modern pencil torch (with a nice, bright LED light) using plastic cable ties. I cannot stress enough how much easier the magnetics have made using 3-link couplings in 4mm scale!

 

[petejones]

Thanks, I will get samples of Slaters and Brassmasters, and the other Smiths couplings.

[SM42]

I agree that the overscale Smiths are most useful if you wish to actually couple things in anger as it were.

 

The scale discrepancy is one of those things that doesn't leap out at you in a strange sort of way.

 

Scale hooks are just too small. 

 

A lightly magnetised needle file and a steel bottom link are also useful 

 

To bend the screw link D links I use a piece of brass bar of the correct diameter. 

 

I place the link on  a pad of kitchen towel and push the brass rod down onto the centre of the link to start the bend, then bend  almost to shape around the bar,  adding in the centre link before final bending up. 

 

I tend to use a cut down dress making pin to form the turnbuckle bar, superglued into place in the centre link.  

I do   after all, have a lot of the old track pin versions in stock and  I was never convinced by this,  even though some of my early wagons use them.

 

Andy

[Porcy Mane]

On 24/07/2022 at 17:29, petejones said:

Has anyone tried fine jewelry chain, such as this?

 

I wind my own from copper jewelry wire. See here:

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=7068#p78095

 

and here:

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=7068&start=25#p88925

 

The comparison photograph of the instanter was taken long before Accurascale introduced theirs. S'pose I should be taking a more up to date snap.

 

 

On 25/07/2022 at 14:47, petejones said:

What's the worst that can happen if they aren't sprung?

 

I don't find it necessary to sprung 4mm couplings but...  it gives the running characteristics of your wagons a far more realistic dynamic if you do.

 

Take a look at the couplings on the covhop & box van in this vid. Covhop and box van have sprung couplings. The brake van couplings are solidly fixed.

 

 

 

P

 

Edited July 27, 2022 by Porcy Mane

[brossard]

1 hour ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

I wind my own from copper jewelry wire. See here:

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=7068#p78095

 

and here:

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=7068&start=25#p88925

 

The comparison photograph of the instanter was taken long before Accurascale introduced theirs. S'pose I should be taking a more up to date snap.

 

 

 

I don't find it necessary to sprung 4mm couplings but...  it gives the running characteristics of your wagons a far more realistic dynamic if you do.

 

Take a look at the couplings on the covhop & box van in this vid. Covhop and box van have sprung couplings. The brake van couplings are solidly fixed.

 

 

 

P

 

 

Nice video...until the brake van hoves into view.  Very illustrative example of the differences between sprung and unsprung couplings.

 

John

[sb67]

8 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

I've used 3-links (and screw links) in 4mm scale for over 45 years, including under exhibition conditions.

 

What I do is not necessarily going to be the best way for others, but I offer it in good faith, because I know that it works pretty well for me:

 

- Smiths hooks - overscale yes, but you need every bit of help you can get in terms of seeing the 'target' under exhibition conditions

 

- I use Smiths links - they do a smaller 'finer scale' one in the brass and also both sizes in the steel

 

- Instanter couplings are fine, if fitted correctly to an appropriate wagon, but they can be a PITA under exhibition conditions

 

- the Ambis steel 'D' links for screw couplings are just about the only game in town for such steel links, because the late, lamented Exactoscale version is no longer available. They need to be bent into the 'D' shape, but be very careful and take the bending steadily, otherwise they can be prone to break

 

- I don't spring the couplings either - never had any problems in that regard

 

- sprung buffers are helpful, though, especially when propelling stock

 

- I shorten the Smiths coupling shank by at least half and then thin down the part that will be going into the buffer beam by at least two thirds. I then file the very end of the slimmed down shank to a fine point. This helps locate the shank in the buffer beam hole.

 

- if it is a plastic buffer beam, I normally drill a 0.5mm hole in the centre, where the point of the thinned-down Smiths hook will go. I then hold the fully assembled coupling hook (with links attached) in a slim pair of pliers with insulated handles and heat the tip of the shank up in a gas flame. I then quickly but carefully insert the hot and pointy end into the 0.5mm hole in the buffer beam and carefully push the shank home, until the part that you've left at full thickness reaches the buffer beam. I've been doing this for many years and if you are starting out doing this, I'd advise have a practice run or two first, to get the feel of it. Obviously take all the usual precautions when working next to a gas hob flame.

 

- I have always used pencil torches with hooks attached, but the real game changer for me over the last few years has been magnetic coupling hooks. Dave Franks at Lanarkshire Model Supplies used to sell them attached to a pencil torch, but they are not available any longer. I then made my own, purchasing some extremely small (2mm x 1mm) magnets, which were mounted on the end of a 0.8mm piece of brass rod, which in turn was attached to a modern pencil torch (with a nice, bright LED light) using plastic cable ties. I cannot stress enough how much easier the magnetics have made using 3-link couplings in 4mm scale!

 

 

That's a great bit of info, I'm going to try the magnets on some 3 link fitted stock I have so I'd love to know a little bit more. I've seen some on e bay but they say hey have a really strong magnetic force which, I guess, would be too strong, how did you mount them to the brass rod and what torch have you used, I've struggled to find a decent sized LED one?

Edited July 28, 2022 by sb67

[Il Grifone]

15 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Absolutely prototypical. 

 

(At least for wood-framed wagons in the 19th century. I recently learned from a post on here somewhere that the old Bromsgrove wagon works had a floor paved with old headstock timbers.)

 

Indeed! That's why the RCH specified through drawgear. This would have only been for new builds and the earlier ones would have continued in use until they fell apart.... ( I have read (don't ask where!) of one breaking in half and dumping its load all over the track. I doubt this was the only time it happened and illustrates why the companies weren't keen on P.O. wagons. (The Midland Railway tried buying them (which only resulted in their ex-owners buying new ones!) and British Railways scrapped them as quickly as they could replace them with steel wagons.

[Compound2632]

1 minute ago, Il Grifone said:

The Midland Railway tried buying them (which only resulted in their ex-owners buying new ones!) 

 

But the new ones were built to the RCH specification and were subject to inspection by and registration with one of the main line companies - so a definite win. 

 

Anyway, the owners didn't buy (or hire) new ones very rapidly. The Midland bought up over 66,000 PO wagons between 1882 and the mid-1890s but only around 24,000 new PO wagons were registered by the company between 1887 and 1902. So there was a period in the 1890s when the majority of coal traffic on the Midland was carried in the company's wagons. In the 20th century, the balance changed again, with a further 48,000 or so PO wagon registrations by 1914.

[Captain Kernow]

3 hours ago, sb67 said:

 

That's a great bit of info, I'm going to try the magnets on some 3 link fitted stock I have so I'd love to know a little bit more. I've seen some on e bay but they say hey have a really strong magnetic force which, I guess, would be too strong, how did you mount them to the brass rod and what torch have you used, I've struggled to find a decent sized LED one?

I made up a very small brass 'sheath' of extremely thin metal, which I wrapped around the magnet, then removed the magnet temporarily and soldered the 'sheath' to the end of the brass rod. I then glued the magnet into the sheath with epoxy.

 

The pen torch might be Everready, not sure, would have to check, but I think I found it (like the magnets) on the internet. It does have a really bright LED bulb, though.

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

8 hours ago, brossard said:

 

Nice video...until the brake van hoves into view.  Very illustrative example of the differences between sprung and unsprung couplings.

 

John

 

Very illustrative of not having free running stock IMHO, P4 modellers wallpapering over the cracks?!!

But at least it got Porcy into somebodies bedroom!

 

Mike.

[Porcy Mane]

6 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

Very illustrative of not having free running stock IMHO

 

Crikey Mike, you been eating picadillo served up with with raw beef.

 

Unless requested otherwise, all my stock is built to run very freely, otherwise it doesn't get passed to run on other peoples train sets.  (See vid below).

 

If you analyse the Crock Depot vid, you'll notice that all the stock "hesitates" at a dipped rail joint but that hesitation is far more harsh & greatly magnified by the rigidly fixed coupling on the brake.

 

 

6 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

P4 modellers wallpapering over the cracks?!!

 

Not quite sure of the point your trying to make there. Physics laws remain the same regardless of whether your modeling in OO, EM, or P4.

 

6 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

But at least it got Porcy into somebodies bedroom!

 

Never been in Mr. AB's boudoir but sharing a room at exhibitions we've attended tends to be a delightful aural experience. 

P.s. He bought another Airfix brake van the weekend just gone. Paid the princely sum of 10p for it.

 

 

Edited July 28, 2022 by Porcy Mane

[SM42]

I found too strong a magnet made it hard to disengage the coupling link. 

 

Just enough to lift the coupling and enable you to break the force by pulling slightly away sideways when the link is over the hook. 

 

Any small tool can then be used, file screwdriver etc.

 

Coupling hooks seem a good idea until you get it tangled in the links and pull the wagon off the track. 

 

Horses for courses really. 

 

My memory is playing tricks on me.

 

I have looked out my Bachmann 16 tonner and the couplings are glued in.  Full length tail, groove cut in wagon underframe to hold tail and increase surface area for glue, wagon weight replaced to make room. 

 

If I can find the van I did, I'll see what I did there. 

 

Andy

[Axlebox]

Uncle Percy, I retain the copyright on that soundtrack, so either negotiate the right to use it or desist henceforth from broadcasting it on a public forum,

Your nephew, AB,

ps I accept payment in half pint instalments.

[Porcy Mane]

1 hour ago, Axlebox said:

ps I accept payment in half pint instalments.

 

After deductions for compensation payments for induced industrial deafness, that leaves you owing me, a balance of 3 bottles of Tormore, 21 pints of Guinness and 77 Airfix brake vans.  (Brown plastic moulding please, Dapol unacceptable). The freebee Hornby Trout you gave me last week has been taken into account during these calculations.

 

P.s. what's it like being a nephew that looks much older than your uncle?

[Enterprisingwestern]

6 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

P.s. what's it like being a nephew that looks much older than your uncle?

 

It's your boyish good looks wot does it!

 

Mike.

[Axlebox]

2 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

After deductions for compensation payments for induced industrial deafness, that leaves you owing me, a balance of 3 bottles of Tormore, 21 pints of Guinness and 77 Airfix brake vans.  (Brown plastic moulding please, Dapol unacceptable). The freebee Hornby Trout you gave me last week has been taken into account during these calculations.

 

P.s. what's it like being a nephew that looks much older than your uncle?

You haven’t taken into consideration my distress at waking up at 2am to find my nearly naked hirsute Uncle leaning over me with a microphone in his hand…and you wonder why I’ve prematurely aged…