drt7uk Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) At the end of my tether with my Hornby Dean Single, Lorna Doone. To overcome the terrible traction, I put bullfrog snot on the driving wheels (this version has no traction tyre to begin with). Initially this worked pretty well but it's not as good as an actual traction tyre, if anything it gives it too much grip which causes it to judder and be very noisy. Has anyone else found a better solution? Have you found a way to add weight to it? Or should I just hope that someone does a decent retooling soon. Rapido's incredible Stirling Single shows how it can be done, i.e. with a lot of diecast. I'm not after miracles, just to pull 4 coaches (weights removed) up a modest incline! Thank you Edited July 5, 2023 by drt7uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PeterStiles Posted July 5, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2023 Mine sits in a display cabinet to make my wife (named after the book) smile. That's worth the money it cost. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K Hatton Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 I wonder if DCC concepts powerbase system may help you with this? I've never used it myself so can't comment on how "good" it is but it seems the kind of thing that would give your engine that extra grip you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Pete Haitch Posted July 5, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2023 I came across one that had been fitted with a tender drive with all axles connected to same gear-train. Tender top and coal-load were a little on the high side to provide room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted July 5, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2023 Didnt the Tri-ang original have 'Magnesion' fitted? :) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted July 5, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2023 5 hours ago, drt7uk said: Have you found a way to add weight to it? Is there anywhere in the body to add weight? Weight in the smokebox could be balanced by the method of a weighted tender leaning on the loco-tender coupling (the design of the coupling seems to be amenable to that with a bit of packing). The only slightly complicated part of this is that the front two axles of the tender have to be given enough up and down movement that they don't carry any of the weight. That could be done by modifying the outside bearings or by mounting the axles on a loosely fitted truck with inside bearings (it wouldn't need to be very sophisticated). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted July 5, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) 14 hours ago, K Hatton said: I wonder if DCC concepts powerbase system may help you with this? I've never used it myself so can't comment on how "good" it is but it seems the kind of thing that would give your engine that extra grip you are looking for. I found the juice wasnt worth the squeeze when I tried that system. it works in theory, but its a lot of effort in track modification for a handful of locos, and a lot of effort if you have a lot of locos. Edited July 5, 2023 by adb968008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR-fan Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 While perhaps not simple solutions, either replace the driving wheels with a traction tyre fitted set or as seen in a You-tube video, run the loco with a Bachmann "City" class loco and many, many coaches may be hauled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Or, bin it and get a proper Triang one. (or just change the chassis to a Triang one. Take out the magnadhesion magnet, which causes drag, and replace it with a nice block of lead. Works a treat!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phatbob Posted July 6, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2023 Get a powered coach chassis from Replica Railways (http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/menusep4/menuchass) and make up a powered coach to run behind the loco. I have a powered BG and it'll drag anything! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drt7uk Posted July 6, 2023 Author Share Posted July 6, 2023 Thanks folks, good tips! I'm going to try changing the plastic wheels on the coaches to metal ones and seeing if this helps fix the issue, before I modify the loco itself 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted July 6, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2023 23 hours ago, 33C said: Take out the magnadhesion magnet, which causes drag Only has an effect on steel track. In essence it's the same as the DCC Concepts Power Base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldH Posted July 7, 2023 Share Posted July 7, 2023 I have read elsewhere on the forum that steel rail has a higher coefficient of friction than nickel silver? Would replacing the track on the gradient with steel rail help? I'd be interested to know as I have some pretty ferocious gradients on the BNR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted July 7, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2023 (edited) 9 hours ago, GeraldH said: I have read elsewhere on the forum that steel rail has a higher coefficient of friction than nickel silver? Would replacing the track on the gradient with steel rail help? I'd be interested to know as I have some pretty ferocious gradients on the BNR. I have some silly gradients to, I “roughed up” a section of nickel silver track with a file, it added about 1 coach to an average train, so it was noticeable… but so is the sound ! Weight in the loco works, 10g 20g self adhesive car wheel balance weights from ebay will help. Edited July 7, 2023 by adb968008 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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