Badger airbrush blocks easily

[roythebus1]

I've got an elderly Badger 150 (I think) and am fed up with it blocking. Despite giving it several thorough cleans with Badger cleaner and a iso-something cleaner, it refuses to pick up paint from the jar. It's currently missing the very expensive neoprene washer that should go in between the nozzle and brush body, would that make much difference?

 

Or am I not thinning the paint enough? I'm trying to use a grey etch primer undercoat I bought at a show last year. I've never had much success with air brushing over the years.

 

To add insult to injury, my rather elderly compressor bought back in 1969 broke its motor shaft so will have to be replaced. It's a Campbell Mausfeld unit that only has a small hole in the outlet adaptor to regulate the pressure. It'll probably be cheaper to replace the compressor. I've got a 12 volt unit out of my Range Rover tht still works remarkably well but won't work in the Range Rover!

 

 

[friscopete]

I use  those cheap double action  airbrushes (12 quid or so ) off Amazon  these days and throw them away if I get any problems . .They work fine for most model train work ,aircraft ,or model cars etc .I have used various  acrylic ,Tamiya ,2K ,Scalecoat  etc .Not the received answer for the great and good but an airbrush is just another tool .Airbrushes work much better if you use them a lot .

[Kylestrome]

53 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

It's currently missing the very expensive neoprene washer that should go in between the nozzle and brush body, would that make much difference?

 

Quite probably. That washer is there in order to maintain a seal between the body of the airbrush (containing the paint) and the nozzle. If this is not sealed there is the probability that paint will escape into the air cap. It then dries out and blocks the passage of air past the nozzle – effectively blocking the airbrush.

 

David

Edited August 6, 2023 by Kylestrome

[Kylestrome]

28 minutes ago, friscopete said:

Airbrushes work much better if you use them a lot .

 

Airbrushes work much better if you CLEAN them a lot. 😉

[PMP]

54 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

 It's currently missing the very expensive neoprene washer that should go in between the nozzle and brush body, would that make much difference?

I have a -200, one time I omitted to put it back in after cleaning, and the brush didn’t work. Replacing it the brush works perfectly, since I’d assume as they are similar designs, it should be considered essential.

[roythebus1]

Thanks, I know I got a couple of these washers about 4 years ago and have lost one during cleaning and the other is probably in a safe place! At about £4 a time they're bloody expensive for what they are.

 

Meanwhile I'll adapt the airbrush to work off my portable worksop compressor, turn that down to about 20psi. that's all I use for painting big buses.

[cctransuk]

3 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

I've got an elderly Badger 150 (I think) and am fed up with it blocking. Despite giving it several thorough cleans with Badger cleaner and a iso-something cleaner, it refuses to pick up paint from the jar. It's currently missing the very expensive neoprene washer that should go in between the nozzle and brush body, would that make much difference?

 

Or am I not thinning the paint enough? I'm trying to use a grey etch primer undercoat I bought at a show last year. I've never had much success with air brushing over the years.

 

To add insult to injury, my rather elderly compressor bought back in 1969 broke its motor shaft so will have to be replaced. It's a Campbell Mausfeld unit that only has a small hole in the outlet adaptor to regulate the pressure. It'll probably be cheaper to replace the compressor. I've got a 12 volt unit out of my Range Rover tht still works remarkably well but won't work in the Range Rover!

 

 

 

The neoprene washer is essential in order to create the vacuum that draws the paint into the nozzle.

 

It's pointless to try to use the airbrush without the washer.

 

Bite the bullet, and buy several of the washers, so that you have a stock against future losses.

 

CJI.

[roythebus1]

Yes, that's my cunning plan, and maybe attach one with. spot of superglue!

[cctransuk]

1 hour ago, roythebus1 said:

Yes, that's my cunning plan, and maybe attach one with. spot of superglue!

 

Not a good idea - it will make the washer rigid, and will not properly compress so as to seal the gap.

 

There is no alternative but to carefully set aside the washer whilst frequently cleaning the airbrush.

 

This is why I use rattle-cans whenever possible; only using the airbrush when there is no alternative.

 

CJI.

[roythebus1]

I've not had much luck with rattle cans either, my can of Humbrol etch primer came out much too thick, hence the Badger came out of hiding!

 

I did try a very small O ring, I've got loads of those, but that sealed everthing too well and wouldn't even pass air through. 

 

Is there anywhere that sells these washers cheaper than Badger @ £4.39 each plus postage?

Edited August 6, 2023 by roythebus1

[cctransuk]

24 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

I've not had much luck with rattle cans either, my can of Humbrol etch primer came out much too thick, hence the Badger came out of hiding!

 

I did try a very small O ring, I've got loads of those, but that sealed everthing too well and wouldn't even pass air through. 

 

Is there anywhere that sells these washers cheaper than Badger @ £4.39 each plus postage?

 

Use Halfords rattlecans - Humbrol are cr*p.

 

I doubt that you'll get the washers cheaper than that - get several and save on postage.

 

CJI.

[roythebus1]

That was my intention! It may encourage me to use the airbrush more often. I've never been able to get it working properly, had it about 40 years now!

[brossard]

I didn't see any mention of the type of paint being used.  If you are using acrylic it has a tendency to dry in the nozzle, clogging the thing.  It is good to use a Paint Retarder.  Both Tamiya and Vallejo have these.  Add a few drops and it slows the paint drying so it has a chance to reach the work.

 

John

[lapford34102]

Bodge I've used successfuly on my ancient 150.

Cut a thin mm or two wide strip of masking tape and wind round nozzle thread. How much is a bit of guesswork / trial and error but enough to make a seal between the nozzle and the airbrush body.

HTH

Stu

Edited August 6, 2023 by lapford34102
Making it more sense!!

[TheEngineShed]

If your paint is coming from a jar, it helps to filter the paint as well, when you add it to the airbrush cup.  I use a piece of a metal coffee filter, the kind meant to replace the paper filters.  I'm fairly meticulous about cleaning the cap and rim when a jar is opened, but you would be surprised what ends up in the filter.  Paint first through filter, then thinner or retarder to wash the remaining paint through the filter. 

[John Tomlinson]

On 06/08/2023 at 15:52, roythebus1 said:

I've not had much luck with rattle cans either, my can of Humbrol etch primer came out much too thick, hence the Badger came out of hiding!

 

I did try a very small O ring, I've got loads of those, but that sealed everthing too well and wouldn't even pass air through. 

 

Is there anywhere that sells these washers cheaper than Badger @ £4.39 each plus postage?

 

As said by all, the washer is vital for the airbrush to work. I have a Badger 200 bought back in the early 1980's.

 

I got fed up with these, not only the price but also the fact they seem to go hard and loose their effectiveness after a while. I've a feeling cleaning with cellulose thinner through the airbrush didn't help.

 

So I've been using plumbers PTFE tape, not a lot wound around the thread - it should be wound clockwise in the thread direction to work properly. You might need to experiment a bit with quantity at first, but once sorted it saves a lot of bother.

 

John.

Edited August 18, 2023 by John Tomlinson

[roythebus1]

I've got lots of ptfe tape, what thread does it go round?

 

I've tried using cellulose thinner in the past, while it really cleans the airbrush I find it clogs again as soon as I use paint! Meanwhile I've ordered som washers from Badger.

Edited August 19, 2023 by roythebus1

[ColinK]

After using my airbrush I dismantle it then clean it in the recommended way, then put all the parts in a ultrasonic bath to clean it again.

[John Tomlinson]

12 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

I've got lots of ptfe tape, what thread does it go round?

 

I've tried using cellulose thinner in the past, while it really cleans the airbrush I find it clogs again as soon as I use paint! Meanwhile I've ordered som washers from Badger.

 

The thread onto which the little white washer goes. The PTFE tape simply forms an alternative to the washer.

 

Useful if you're out of washers, alathough it sounds as if you've sorted that one!

 

John.

[shipbadger]

I've just read this thread and so far I've not seen mention of the aerosol airbrush cleaners.  My cleaning method involves passing some of the solvent just used though the brush and pushing an old paint brush around to remove any stubborn paint followed by squirting the airbrush cleaner directly into the pick up opening of the brush.  I have a pile of old newspaper to spray onto.  When the spray runs clear that's it.  I only dismantle when it is obvious things are starting to clog up.  I have half a dozen of so brushes ranging from single or dual action, suction or gravity fed, expensive Badger or Paasche or unbranded  'knock off' copies, all get the same treatment.  My most expensive airbrush (initial retail price) actually cost £25 at a model railway show complete with three extra paint jars.  I was told it didn't work.  Well the three paint jars would have cost more than the £25 to buy so I bought it.  A good clean later and one working high quality brush.  Just persevere with your airbrush, collect some old models or tin cans and just keep bashing away until you feel comfortable using it.  One final comment, etching primer may not be a good thing in an air brush as as it's name implies long term use or leaving it in the brush may etch the metal.  Halfords sell perfectly good rattle can etch primers.

 

Tony Comber

[John Tomlinson]

20 minutes ago, shipbadger said:

I've just read this thread and so far I've not seen mention of the aerosol airbrush cleaners.  My cleaning method involves passing some of the solvent just used though the brush and pushing an old paint brush around to remove any stubborn paint followed by squirting the airbrush cleaner directly into the pick up opening of the brush.  I have a pile of old newspaper to spray onto.  When the spray runs clear that's it.  I only dismantle when it is obvious things are starting to clog up.  I have half a dozen of so brushes ranging from single or dual action, suction or gravity fed, expensive Badger or Paasche or unbranded  'knock off' copies, all get the same treatment.  My most expensive airbrush (initial retail price) actually cost £25 at a model railway show complete with three extra paint jars.  I was told it didn't work.  Well the three paint jars would have cost more than the £25 to buy so I bought it.  A good clean later and one working high quality brush.  Just persevere with your airbrush, collect some old models or tin cans and just keep bashing away until you feel comfortable using it.  One final comment, etching primer may not be a good thing in an air brush as as it's name implies long term use or leaving it in the brush may etch the metal.  Halfords sell perfectly good rattle can etch primers.

 

Tony Comber

 

Your point about etching primer is a good one.

 

I do regularly use my airbrush for this stuff, but I'm mighty quick at the end to make sure it is all flushed out and cleaned away. As you say, to delay would not be a good idea, particularly as the clearances in the nozzle are very small indeed.

 

John.

[roythebus1]

Problem solved I think!! Having been in touch with Barwell, the Badger parts stockist, I had several problems.

 

A medium nozzle with fine needle, so I got a fine needle. that didn't really improve things.

 

A stock of the little neoprene washers. That didn't improve things.

 

A new air valve and some new paint jars. Even that lot didn't improve things, still not drawing paint up.

 

I did seem to notice a bit of air escaping where the air valve screws onto so tightened that as far as I could. Still no joy, still leaking air. So, out with the fine carborundum stick and lightly rub the flat surface to make sure it's flat, AND put a wipe of air brake pipe sealant on the mating face. Problem solved! I think.. I've had the air brake sealant for years, I use it on air brake systems on my vintage buses.

 

I mixed a bit of etch primer and that seems to work ok but tends to clog the pick-up pipe rather quickly, but job done. I'll try some Precision Paints top coat later today. My portable workshop compressor is being used at lase, it's a bit noisy in the railway room but the small airbrush will take quite a while to use 50 litres of air!

 

 

[cctransuk]

5 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

I mixed a bit of etch primer and that seems to work ok but tends to clog the pick-up pipe rather quickly .......

 

Are you thinning the paint enough?

 

Clogging the pick-up pipe shouldn't be a problem if the paint is thin enough.

 

CJI.

[roythebus1]

Maybe not, I was using etch primer 60/40 mix. I'm aware that only a thin coat is really needed. Maybe I need to thin it a bit more.

 

What would you suggest for top coat, Precision Paints, oil-based. also what air pressure? PP website suggest 30 psi and 10 psi for etch, but at that pressure nothing was picking up.

[roythebus1]

I thinned down some Precision Paint green and had a bash at spraying some brass kits. It took several coats to get decent coverage but I still get the nozzle clogging. Paint was well stirred well with a broad plastic spatula. Now wondering why the nozzle keeps clogging. It was cleared by just screwing the needle up tight and opening it again. I'm using white spirit to thin the paint at 25psi. any more ideas?