RMweb Gold Right Away Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 15 hours ago, Graham_Muz said: They are designed as a push fit and if needed pushing out from the inside with the tip of a small screwdriver should work. When replacing note that the side sides are handed with a sloping underside to take account of the shape of the cab front at the sides. Thank you Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJC Dusty Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Has anyone noticed with the southern booster when running on dc when the power gets turned up above a fast crawl the cab lights turn off i wondered if this is normal and if this still happens on dcc or is this just my loco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 13 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13 (edited) 27 minutes ago, SJC Dusty said: Has anyone noticed with the southern booster when running on dc when the power gets turned up above a fast crawl the cab lights turn off i wondered if this is normal and if this still happens on dcc or is this just my loco. That might be by design, as in real life I would expect cab lights to be turned off when the loco is on motion, particularly at night. Edited January 13 by spamcan61 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green too Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 (edited) 16 hours ago, Graham_Muz said: Ultrascale wheelsets, as per the KMRC Bulleid Diesels, will drop in utilising the bearings and gears off the 00 axles. Gibson 4842B ( Use the black axles trimmed to length ) ............ picked mine up at Warley - a bit quicker than Ultrascale. There's a Manual Sheet on the EMGS website - easier than searching through 31 pages of RMweb thread. Edited January 13 by Wickham Green too axles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green too Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 (edited) First bogie IS now separated ......... the plugs & sockets ( middle of the end of the circuit boards ) were very reluctant to separate and I can only hope they'll go back together OK ....... the top cover of the gear tower clips off quite easily then it's a juggle to get the bogie off its pivot. I CANNOT see how the keeper plate can be removed from underneath WITHOUT access from the top, thus, as it's tightly clipped on in six places ....... now it's removed regauging should be a doddle ( and then it's got to be put back together ! ). Edited January 13 by Wickham Green too terminology 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted January 13 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13 1 hour ago, spamcan61 said: That might be by design, as in real life I would expect cab lights to be turned off when the loco is on motion, particularly at night. The cab light on any locomotive should never be on when in motion; shunting locomotives often had a cab light on only because the crew needed to hop on and off frequently. On the main line it's "lights out" every time. Which brings me to the point - made generally and not directed at anyone in particular - that model locomotives probably do not need working cab lights for that very reason. If we are looking for even a very modest easing in costs there is one for you. 1 2 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green too Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Lots of 'modern image' layouts are of depots where cab lights might be appropriate on stationary locos ....... but the software should switch them off the moment the thing moves. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ryde-on-time Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 Was it the BR green one people are after? One here https://agrmodelrailwaystore.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=14263 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 I've fitted a power bank to the HM7000 and I must say that it's a flawless runner and that I haven't found any of the issues mentioned above in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Right Away Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 On 10/01/2024 at 13:36, rembrow said: I was just about to post an issue I've found with mine, that maybe affecting your model. I have found two issues with the bogies and wheelsets. 1. Several power pick up wipers didn't travel to the full extent of the side to side movement. These can be adjusted by dropping the cosmetic sideframes and lifting out the wheelsets. …. Could you describe the process for removing just the wheels - this is for wiper adjustment only. Many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 I bought two of these, both very nice models. The first one runs perfectly out of the box, smooth, quiet and powerful. The second one, oh dear - it just won't stay on the track. Standing the model on a mirror reveals the warping problem mentioned by others. One bogie has the innermost and centre wheel on one side clear of the surface. It's not much of a gap, but enough to cause trouble. I dismantled the model to investigate, and I'm not convinced that the fault actually lies with the bogie. Removed from the loco it seems OK. Something is clearly out of true and I suspect that the error is with the chassis casting, either a minute distortion lengthwise or the cast bogie pivot pin not being true. Whatever, I superglued a metal shim to the underside of the chassis where it rests on the bogie side bearer. This places the full weight squarely onto the bogie as it should be and all wheels now sit firmly on the mirror. A simple fix, but it has completely solved the derailment problem and the second loco now runs as well as the first. 1 5 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold simon b Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 (edited) 3 hours ago, Trofimow said: I bought two of these, both very nice models. The first one runs perfectly out of the box, smooth, quiet and powerful. The second one, oh dear - it just won't stay on the track. Standing the model on a mirror reveals the warping problem mentioned by others. One bogie has the innermost and centre wheel on one side clear of the surface. It's not much of a gap, but enough to cause trouble. I dismantled the model to investigate, and I'm not convinced that the fault actually lies with the bogie. Removed from the loco it seems OK. Something is clearly out of true and I suspect that the error is with the chassis casting, either a minute distortion lengthwise or the cast bogie pivot pin not being true. Whatever, I superglued a metal shim to the underside of the chassis where it rests on the bogie side bearer. This places the full weight squarely onto the bogie as it should be and all wheels now sit firmly on the mirror. A simple fix, but it has completely solved the derailment problem and the second loco now runs as well as the first. Thanks for posting this fix, I've just put mine on a piece of glass and it has the same problem on both bogies. Looking at which wheels are affected I'd say the bogie castings are twisted, so I'm going to send it back for repair. The worrying thing is that this fault is actually visible in 3 of the pictures on the first page of this thread, seems like a quality control issue? Edited January 13 by simon b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kaput Posted January 13 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13 3 hours ago, Trofimow said: Whatever, I superglued a metal shim to the underside of the chassis where it rests on the bogie side bearer. This places the full weight squarely onto the bogie as it should be and all wheels now sit firmly on the mirror. Don't suppose you have any pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted January 14 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14 10 hours ago, Kaput said: Don't suppose you have any pictures? Since you ask... I'm afraid I didn't take a "before" picture. Here's an "after" pic - the left hand bogie had the problem, but now all wheels of both bogies are properly on the surface, and the loco actually runs as it should. The shim is an offcut of DCC Concepts Powerbase plate glued to the underside of the chassis below the side bearer. Yes, it's crude, it's addressing the symptom rather than the cause, but it's simple and it works. 1 3 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rembrow Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 15 hours ago, Right Away said: Could you describe the process for removing just the wheels - this is for wiper adjustment only. Many thanks. Like most powered bogies, the wheelsets sit in a box where the gearset is positioned. The box is in two parts, the upper part has the gears and slots to hold the wheelsets and a lower part that is a push fit to allow for maintenance. The lower part also has the bogie sideframes as part of its moulding. The lower part is held by 6 clips, two on each side and one each on the ends. This needs to be removed. As some pressure is needed I would advise that the body is removed to avoid damage to the pantograph. Also suggest working on a wide flat surface, as one or more wheelsets are likely to jump out, so need to be close to a work surface. Start by using a pronged file or similar to release the clip at one end, the clip is over a raised moulding on the upper part. Then gently pull the lower part and it should release along it's length. Each wheelset has two pick ups, the front and rear wheels have long pick ups that are bent towards the wheels at a point about half way along. So part is flush to the sideframe and you need to avoid bending that away, so I held the pick up at the bend point, with a needle file, so that the adjustment happened at the point of the bend. 2 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Right Away Posted January 14 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14 2 hours ago, rembrow said: Like most powered bogies, the wheelsets sit in a box where the gearset is positioned. The box is in two parts, the upper part has the gears and slots to hold the wheelsets and a lower part that is a push fit to allow for maintenance. The lower part also has the bogie sideframes as part of its moulding. The lower part is held by 6 clips, two on each side and one each on the ends. This needs to be removed. As some pressure is needed I would advise that the body is removed to avoid damage to the pantograph. Also suggest working on a wide flat surface, as one or more wheelsets are likely to jump out, so need to be close to a work surface. Start by using a pronged file or similar to release the clip at one end, the clip is over a raised moulding on the upper part. Then gently pull the lower part and it should release along it's length. Each wheelset has two pick ups, the front and rear wheels have long pick ups that are bent towards the wheels at a point about half way along. So part is flush to the sideframe and you need to avoid bending that away, so I held the pick up at the bend point, with a needle file, so that the adjustment happened at the point of the bend. Thank you very much indeed, this reply is most welcome. At present I have just two wipers which do not reach the wheels on “full side deflection” and does not affect running, but your very useful descriptive information will be invaluable when it finally becomes necessary to adjust more pick ups. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jonnyuk Posted January 14 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14 this is really useful info, my mine has been very inconstant, putting on glass shows exactly the same issue, now do i take it back or try to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenGiraffe22 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 I decided to order a CC1 in Malachite in the end as they seemed to be selling out fast, they went from Derails really fast but TMC had 10 in stock when I ordered, my preferred retailers purely because of free postage, it should arrive tomorrow, hopefully be able to test it at the parents Tuesday after work, be interested to see if I've got a good one or a derailer 🧐 I always think if locos can negotiate my decrepid old layout (most can) they can negotiate anything 😅 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green too Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Well, mine came from Derails and isn't a derailer ! ( EM wheelsets complete and reassembly should commence after supper - checking pickup contact first ! ) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich46 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Regarding changing the route discs/lights. I pushed them out using a small flat bladed screwdriver. Once they had moved slightly they came out easily. To get the replacements in I chamfered the end of each spline (used to locate them correctly) and slightly rounded the inner ends. This enabled me to locate them just in the hole followed by firm push home. So far I have fitted a Zimo standard decoder to the green CC1. It runs well except for one short length on my layout so I will investigate the bogies to see if the problem lies with them. 20002 in black/silver is awaiting the Youchoos sound decoder I have bought with a mix of their Class 71 and 2-BIL sounds. 20003 in post 1956 BR green will be fitted with a sound decoder later. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich46 Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 20003 should be 20002 of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green too Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 3 hours ago, Rich46 said: 20003 should be 20002 of course! I thought 20003 was wishful thinking ! 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIK Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 4 hours ago, Rich46 said: Regarding changing the route discs/lights. I pushed them out using a small flat bladed screwdriver. Once they had moved slightly they came out easily. To get the replacements in I chamfered the end of each spline (used to locate them correctly) and slightly rounded the inner ends. This enabled me to locate them just in the hole followed by firm push home. So far I have fitted a Zimo standard decoder to the green CC1. It runs well except for one short length on my layout so I will investigate the bogies to see if the problem lies with them. 20002 in black/silver is awaiting the Youchoos sound decoder I have bought with a mix of their Class 71 and 2-BIL sounds. 20003 in post 1956 BR green will be fitted with a sound decoder later. Hi, What's a Zimo standard decoder?. Regards Nik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich46 Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 By standard decoder I mean a non-sound decoder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Right Away Posted January 15 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15 (edited) 9 hours ago, NIK said: Hi, What's a Zimo standard decoder?. Regards Nik I have fitted my electric loco with a Zimo MX638D which was “borrowed” from a steam locomotive, that latter subsequently being hard wired with a MX600R. Like many other Zimo “budget” non-sound decoders, the MX638D no longer appears available, their only “economical”offering being the MX600R (8 wires) a really smooth chip, so long as you don’t require sound. Wish I’d stocked up on the 638 and 617 types whilst they were available, it would appear that the “sound” market could be taking precedence regarding decoders. Edited January 15 by Right Away correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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