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GW Models wheel press and quartering jig


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George had an embarrassingly good Saturday at Scaleforum, so he'll be busy making new batches of tools. 

 

They are all excellent value for money, designed and manufactured by George who understands the needs of modellers more than most. The 10" rollers will do boilers even for small 7mm scale locos, and can roll tapers. I would suggest that they are a better choice than the smaller length one.

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I have one the "buttons" which the axles fit into appeared to be jammed , I presume they should push inwards when the wheels are pressed on the axles ? Any suggestions for a cure please.

 

Further to above, oil didn't work . Removed the plungers gave then a light polish with emery paper and sorted.  

 

 

Re GW wheel pullers has anyone managed to get them to work on Gibson Drivers ? Mine are so weedy that all they do is pull the rim off !!

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Not used one to pull wheels, but what might help is to use a washer slightly larger than the wheel, including the tyre. If necessary cut a slot in it to allow the washer to slide over the axle. By pulling on the washer it will hopefully all move together. The smaller the hole in the middle the better.

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Not used one to pull wheels, but what might help is to use a washer slightly larger than the wheel, including the tyre. If necessary cut a slot in it to allow the washer to slide over the axle. By pulling on the washer it will hopefully all move together. The smaller the hole in the middle the better.

Wasn't there an article in MRJ about a similar modification to the wheel puller?

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I have the GW Models Riviter, Wheelpress and Rolling Bars, andf I would not want to be without them.  I also have the pullers, but have never used them.

A quick point about the press, if using Gibson wheels you need to shorten the crankpins slightly before putting them in the press.  As supplied, the screws that form the crankpins are slightly too long to fit in the quartering slots.

Cheers, Dave.

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Slightly off topic, but as its relevant to GW Models, here seems to be a sensible enough place!

 

In the advert on the current MRJ, it mentions a 6" and 10" mini roller, I presume this is a boiler rolling tool?

 

If anyone can shed any light, I'd be most grateful!

 

Cheers

 

J

 

Edited to sort out an autocorrect faux pas!

Well worth the money the 6 inch has grooves for making bends in rail and the bigger version is good for tumble homes on coaches. George also did a range of boiler mountings and smoke box darts (the best I've used) but people whined about the price and he stopped doing them. I can't personally order enough to make it worth his while to start production again, shame but you can see his point!

 

CAT

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..... George also did a range of boiler mountings and smoke box darts (the best I've used) but people whined about the price and he stopped doing them. ....

 

He still makes non-rotating oval sprung buffers, suitable for use on certain BR Standards and LMS Pacifics.... £4 a set, I think.

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I have one loco which is ex-LNWR, and hence quartered the other way to usual.

 

Now, I know that you can’t see both sides of an engine at once, and this really doesn’t matter, but for an extra fee, I ordered one which will do both LH and RH leading (although not at the same time!)

 

Can’t remember the extra cost, but worth it. (I already had a press, so sold that one to a friend.)

 

With the wheel puller, I use a disc with a slot cut into it rather than apply the force directly to the tyre. If the wheel centre is not flush with the rear of the tyre, then I try to find a washer of the appropriate thickness and diameter, or turn up a stepped disc, so that force is applied to the centre and the tyre together.

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A quick point about the press, if using Gibson wheels you need to shorten the crankpins slightly before putting them in the press.  As supplied, the screws that form the crankpins are slightly too long to fit in the quartering slots.

Cheers, Dave.

Can't say that I've found this.  What I have had to do is 'thin' the outside boss around the axle hole by gentle filing so that the rim sits flat against the rubber packing - but not on all wheels.  These were the Gibson GWR Pannier wheels which are ex-Studiolth moulds I believe with no crank pin holes moulded in.

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