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Early Risers.


Mr.S.corn78
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11 minutes ago, tigerburnie said:

I can only see the sea from home if I stand on the roof,

You need a widow's walk! (The architectural not the widows' peak hairline feature.)

 

Edited by Ozexpatriate
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6 hours ago, Ian Abel said:

Possibly I'm in the minority being in the US, the track is a mix of LGB and Aristocraft, more Aristo, so here's the questions;

i) Will the fishplates alone provide a decent enough connection initially for the track power, given I'll use some pliers to make sure there's a lot of positive contact. I've got a honking Aristo G-Gauge controller that's going to be used to start with.

ii) With the Aristo, they have screw attached fishplates, see below;

 

will they provide good enough additional electrical route, AND how the hell do you manage to get those tiny screws installed down on your hands and knees without losing the buqqers??

 

 

As others have said " 'ere be dragons"  :)

 

Any electrical stuff exposed to the elephants (or hippos) will degrade PDQ and you will not be a happy bunny. To make it reliable you don't want to rely on a piece of track to transmit power much further than its own length which means, ideally, you need a copper power feed that connects to every piece.

 

Brass isn't a terribly good electrical conductor (copper is about four times better) so if you relied on the track alone the voltage will drop on long runs which will be a problem if you run analog rather than DCC. A copper distribution system should fix that.

 

That said, brass is still a much better electrical conductor that nickel-silver but you don't want to rely on fishplates to carry the current between track panels.

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43 minutes ago, Gwiwer said:

In the UK the main holiday time is July / August.  Nine months later you get .....

 

 

Mine was last month too but I was keeping schtum :)   At least they didn't call me Rothesay.

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46 minutes ago, AndyID said:

 

I've had that happen too. What I do is loosen the nuts on the offending wheel then wind them back in but no more than finger tight. Then drive the car for a few yards and stomp on the brakes. Reverse and stomp on the brakes again.

 

That's usually enough to crack the corrosion and it avoids getting under the car.

 

I wasn't worried about getting under the car. I was sure the two nuts I'd partially put back on were enough to hold the wheel as it released, and they were. I knew about the driving back and forward, but that would mean it being off the jack, and I wasn't so happy about that.

 

Anyway - whatever works.

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