HealeyMills Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 boxbrownie - I don't think I have the confidence to use your 'snap it off' method, knowing my luck I'd end up bending the axles and wheels. I take it you are well again now? Get the heat on in the shed and get crackin! Mike - thank you, I shall endeavour to keep this thread going, if only as a reference for others attempting one of these superb kits ... oh and for me when I build my second JLTRT class 40 (perhaps 40177 another Longsight beastie) Brian - thank you, I like the idea of using Xuron cutters, nice and quick (I suppose all your hints and tips will result in an expedient build judging by the rate you complete these kits!) I had noticed in your post/ response to my issue with pony whitemetal axle retainers that your were able to remove the entire pony wheel unit. This prompted me to simply use the tight fit method to hold pony wheel assembly in place rather than glue it. But thank you very much for the prompt. I have had to file away a little of the bogie frame to fit the pony unit in though as I discovered that without any adjustment the bogie frame seemed to bend upwards at the end. Initially the apertures for the pony unit were just a little too small so it was a simple to fix with a little patience and a file. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 I found the screws to screw the bogie sides to the main bogie very tough to screw together, was very tight and was knackered after screwing it together :-) Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 At last I have managed to get some more building done. After sitting and sifting through vast quantities of brass parts that come with the kit I decided to sort them into groups relevant to where they go on the model as it seemed so daunting looking at all the bits and not knowing where they went. Once this was done I started by fitting detail to the loco body underframe, namely the additional plastic framework and then some of the cast brass details: I found the cast brass details, even though this is 7mm stuff, are still quite difficult to hold whilst cleaning them up. There isn't much cleaning to be done but nonetheless there is a little due to the moulding process I guess but the parts are well detailed and then simply stuck on: Having had a little guidance on how to trim the ends of the axles I ended up using Mr Daniels' method by using the Xuron cutters - and light work they made of the job too. This allowed the axles/wheels sets to be inserted back into the bogie chasis and the frame added for a test fit: Down to detailing the bogie frames from here on in I suppose... There are quite a few components, many of which seem to be for the buffer beam, but items like sandboxes, steps and guard irons were simple to sort out. I haven't added the guard irons yet as I thought they would prohibit me from laying the bogie frame flat for the time being. I will probably add these last: Even with only these items fitted it seem to be looking more like a loco now and I must admit building the loco is quite a rewarding process: ..and finally, it wouldn't be right if I didn't pose a question. What on earth are these items? Hope to have another update in a few days Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Parts for the screw couplings. You should have another sprue, maybe 2, with the hooks and more shackles on. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Nice to see some more progress, The sprues you are having a bit of a problem with are the screw couplings. You should have more with the hooks on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Ah ha, thank you Richard and Brian. I do indeed have two other sprues - with parts that I recognised. I'll have to do some studying to get that lot together though Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Ah ha, thank you Richard and Brian. I do indeed have two other sprues - with parts that I recognised. I'll have to do some studying to get that lot together though Cheers Lee Hi Lee Here's the front end of my JLTRT Peak. You can see the construction of the coupling. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I found the screws to screw the bogie sides to the main bogie very tough to screw together, was very tight and was knackered after screwing it together :-) Mike Mike, are you sure that it wasn't a m2 nut and an 8BA bolt. Bin there done that . OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Wow, thank you for that Richard. With a bit of luck I can decipher what you have done with the bits I have in front of me. That 44(?) looks absolutely excellent, your build quality is just superb. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Well today I feel like I've made a huge leap forward with my loco build. Having had the help from Richard and Brian I'm feeling more prepared to tackle the couplings now. However, today I made a start on Bogie No. 1 frame: Whilst that was put to one side to set solid I decided to add the detail parts to the buffer beam and complete the remaining items (sandboxes and speedo) on the bogie frame of No.2: Most of the parts were fairly self explanatory but I have had a little bit of doubt as to whether I have correctly fitted the jumper cables on both side of the bogie frame. From the photos you can see how the brass casting has an arm and a two stage recess and I have attached the jumper cables using the last recess: I noticed if I used the first recess then the jumper sat rather high on the top of the bogie frame. None of the components are glued I might add as I want to trial every part and then perhaps paint the small items like the buffer beam fittings/ pipes etc separately. It was only when I was taking a couple of piccies I noticed that the long straight brass section at the end of the jumper cable actually interferes with the wheel. Perhaps, if I have fitted the jumper cable correctly it is simply a case of trimming this long straight brass section back a bit: Soldiering on I added the fittings the fuel tank: This gave me a little problem as I have found a couple of pics of 40118 with what I believe is a lack of a blanking plate as per the JLTRT kit but instead a pipe. This can be seen on the pic [Dennis Taylor - photopic]. If anyone has any gen on this I would be very grateful as the photo taken by Dennis Taylor at Sheffield on 4 April 1984 clearly shows the pipe but I'm not sure about the blanking plate. Finally, I have been researching the cylinders situated above the fuel tank and underneath the loco main body. I was concerned that the connections to these may not be at the bottom of the tanks/ cylinders - afterall if there was any condensate within these then that would end up in the system. If the cylinders were connected at their tops then this may not happen. So this rationale had me trawling the internet trying to find reference pictures of the cylinders in situ with connections. In the end I contacted a really helpful chap at The 16 SVT Society who has offered to get me the drawings for the cylinder connections on the currently being restored 40118. I know this probably sounds a little daft but I thought rather than connecting bits at random I could make a half decent attempt at replicating the actual loco. So as soon as I get the drawings I will make a start on the cylinder connections and installation. Until then its going to be bogie No 1 fittings and then the couplings next (cringe). So watch this space.... So, everything completed up to now: Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Tonights efforts - I have managed to get the steps, guard irons and buffer beam detail complete on bogie No 1: I'm awaiting delivery of four more sandboxes from JLTRT as they only seem to send the kits out with four and 40118 has eight in total. I was a bit disappointed with how the buffers scrubbed up to be honest. There seems to be a few small recesses in the brass casting. I have tried to get them smooth but I fear I may end up making the buffers too thin in the process so I think I may try to find some filler that I can use on brass in an attempt to get them smooth. You will see what I mean by this close-up: I really do have to make a start on those couplings.... Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Looking good Lee! Since I already had the scanner warmed up I thought I'd scan these and post them on here for you..... 40 118 at Doncaster and Sheffield in 1984. Apologies for the fuzziness around the edges, I think my scanner screen needs a good clean Nidge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Nidge, Thank you very much for posting the pictures - they are excellent The first picture shows the fuel tank filler nicely and solves one problem I had with detailing the fuel tanks. The third picture confirms the cab rear colour which is the usual light grey, but the console and around the driivers/ second mans seating area it is a light green colour (heavily scratched and scraped). I'm still faffing about with the screw link couplings at the moment, despite the kind help from Richard. Not sure which parts should have the holes drilled and cleaned out or for that matter what goes where at the moment. But I'm sure with a bit more studying I'll get there in the end. Once I have this sorted this I will post a blow by blow account of how to put the couplings together and how to fit them to the bogie (it could be a few days before I post again ). Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 After the helpful piccies from Nidge I have manage to fit the last part of the cast brass detailing to the fuel tank: I'm quite pleased with the fuel tank now and perhaps I shall try to get a coat of primer on it at some point this week. With a bit of luck I may get the info I need to complete the air tanks at some point this week which will enable me to work towards a completed chasis frame with bogies fitted (and working) by the end of this week also - perhaps that's all wishful thinking. I have made a start with the couplings today but I found them incredibly difficult to clean up. The hardest thing of all was drilling into the cast brass detailing to get the parts to fit. I broke a 0.7mm bit on this : Not a good result really and that was right at the start of the days build but things improved a little as I went on and eventually I managed to get all this lot ready for assembly: I have laid this out as I see it might go together, I think there is one collar missing but other than that I believe it to be correct - but I wondered if anyone can tell me whether I am going on the right lines with this. I did manage to find a drawing of a similar assembly on the JLTRT site but that was for the Class 20 build and the screw link coupling was a little different. Essentially the screw bar and one trunion were different but between that and the picture posted above by Richard I managed to get to this: Not a lot to show for 4 hours work. I understand that it is necessary to tap the inside of the lower trunnion bar - is this a 12BA tap as per the JLTRT Class 20 instructions? I'm looking forward to making a start on the loco body but that seems like an eternity away at the moment. I also need to work out a plan for fitting headcode, tail and cab lights plus (and this will be a first for me) a DCC sound chip with speaker. I have been looking at the Loksound XL provided by SWD and I would be very interested to hear any comments on the sound files used. Until next time.... Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinsley-toton Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi HM After seeing this thread I really MUST get on and finish my 40143 I've only had it 3 years T-T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hello Lee, photos are a bit like bus's none for ages then three come along together. Photo by Ron Chaplin. For drilling the shackles I support them on a bit of 1/8" aluminium in the vice (the alle goes in the U) it is 12 BA to tap the trunons. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi Lee You're very close on your lay out of the parts. The tommy bar (which you have placed at the hole at the end of the hook) goes through the hole in the cube on the threaded bar, being retained by a collar, and free to move. The coupling itself is retained by a spring and a split pin. If you do not have enough collars, 16BA washers with the hole opened up will do the job admirably, and less obtrusively too. Cheers Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi Lee, mines still without couplings, found them awkward too Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi Lee, I meant to post those photos ages ago actually but I'm glad they've been of some use to you. Just had another thought.... have you been to Tyseley to have alook at '118 in the flesh? It was parked by the turntable the last time I looked. Nidge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hello Lee, have a look in 'Prototypes > preservation > class 40 under going repair at Barrow Hill'. Some of the photos may be of use. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Good evening, No building taking place tonight as I didn't finish work until late and I'm way too tired. Richard - thank you for your guidance on the couplings. If I understand you correctly these are the two parts (circled) that you are refering to: I shall try to drill out the hole in the screw bar tomorrow and with a bit of luck (once I have filed down a collar) I shall have this bit done without any further problems. Nidge - I was thinking of taking a trip to Tyseley but I'm up in Aberdeen at the moment and its a bit of a way to go. Perhaps sometime soon OzzyO - I'm just about to order a 12 BA taper tap and die from Eileens. That piccy must be quite old as 118 has frost grilles on there. Nice pictorial updates from the CFPS - sad that 135 and 145 are broken though I really want to catch them sometime at the East Lancs Railway when they are back in full working order. Thank you to everyone that has left a comment or help on this thread, your comments and guidance are all really useful. I very much appreciate the help, as without it, I think I would still be trying to fit wheels to a bogie frame I can see my timescale for this week slipping a little bit now - but I guess there's no rush. Perhaps I could make a start on the cabs and body Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Richard - thank you for your guidance on the couplings. If I understand you correctly these are the two parts (circled) that you are refering to: Yes, that's correct. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixteen 12by 10s Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi Don't know if you have come across these already, but some time ago I posted a collection of detail shots of D212 on the gallery. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/gallery/image/17566-img-7460jpg/ Hope you find these useful, and if there is anything specific you need , let me know. Looks like you have a cracking model coming together. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 18, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2011 Lee, not sure if you have one but I tend to use a small needle file rather than a dril to give clearances, I find it is all too easy to break very fine drills on the hard brass castings, a small needle file turn in the opposite direction to its "cut" enables very small amount od material to be taken out without too much bite and fear of breakage.....needle file reaming if you will! Your pictures of all the little casting fitments is a great help here too.....thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Evenin' all. I've been faffing about with small uncontrollable brass components today. I think half of them must still be somewhere on the living floor as I lost count of how many times things pinged off. I tried to shape the cast brass collars that come with the kit - despite Richards advice to get 16BA washers and widen the holes a little. My recommendation, endorsing what Richard said (if only I'd taken heed) - don't be a twit and waste valuable time and energy trying to get the cast brass blobs with holes off the sprues and into a shape that resembles a collar (life's just too short) Anyway, here are a couple of piccies that I took after assembling the screw link couplings. Firstly the hook with first part of the assembly: Next I added the screw rod with the torque bar: .. and finally just for a trial fit here is the entire coupling minus a couple of collars (grrrrr): I am just about to order a few bits and bobs from Eileens and amongst my shopping list are 16BA brass washers. Once I get those (and the 12BA tap and die) I shall progress further with the coupling. Gary - thank you for the posting - the photos are a fantastic reference and how nice it is to see 40012 in such pristine condition. boxbrownie - I was beginning to think you'd deserted my thread My plans for the weeks' build have gone skywards as I'm away from Aberdeen for two weeks now, so no more Class 40 build until I return - sob, sob. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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