two tone green Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hi Michael, And a bit more £. But yes, they are rather nice. Looking forwrd to getting home next weekend to play. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Hello Lee & TTG, it was good to meet up with yous at Halifax yesterday, it's good to have a real ale bar at a show. That's three years on the run that we've finished off all the real ale. Going to the pub after the show was a laugh. I have attached a photo what I was trying to explain to you about the hanging chains. I use some tinned copper wire of about 30 or 32 S.W.G. for this, to do the twisting I mount the open end in a pin chuck and twist away, when I'm happy with the look I just run a small amount of solder along it just to make it a bit more rigid. Hope this helps. Have to start saving for Telford now. OzzyO. I like the idea of this - the wires twisted to represent the chains. I'll need to get some really fine wire, but I might give this a go in 4mm for my Deltic bufferbeams. Thanks for posting the photo - a picture speaking a thousand words etc. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I like the idea of this - the wires twisted to represent the chains. I'll need to get some really fine wire, but I might give this a go in 4mm for my Deltic bufferbeams. Thanks for posting the photo - a picture speaking a thousand words etc. Jon Hello Jon, for this to work in 4mm you would need something about 38 or 40 SWG. That's getting down to the the Nat's do dar. Please post a photo to let us see how you get on. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Hello Jon, for this to work in 4mm you would need something about 38 or 40 SWG. That's getting down to the the Nat's do dar. Please post a photo to let us see how you get on. OzzyO. OzzyO.... ah.. thanks... I'll see whether I can find any sites selling gnats bits or whiskers... and see how I get on... A photo, of couse will be provided if I succeed - if I can get the macro in close enough Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 OzzyO.... ah.. thanks... I'll see whether I can find any sites selling gnats bits or whiskers... and see how I get on... A photo, of couse will be provided if I succeed - if I can get the macro in close enough Hello Jon, or you could try some copper wire about 0.5mm dim. and twist it and see how that looks. It's the twist that helps make it look like chain! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Evenin all. Here's an update from todays work which has been rather a mixed bag in terms of success. I started by adding the parking brake wheels to the cab consoles and then making sure all the wires from the cab nose LEDs could pass easily through the console and bulkhead walls. With that done I fixed both bulkheads into the two cabs, making sure the correct bulkhead was fitted to their respective cab. Now came the disastrous bit of the day - I was test fitting cab No 1 to the body sides and roof when the entire cab pinged off and landed on the hard floor. I think I was lucky really as only the recently fitted bulkhead came off. Unfortunately this took with it the wiring for the cab lighting but not the lights themselves. I nearly took a pic of the disaster zone but instead decided I would press on and make a mends before being defeated. So, cutting away the remaining plastic outersheath that was stuck to the cab roof and de-soldering the small parts of cable that had been left behind I managed to keep the apparent damage to a minimum. It wasn't long after that I had re-attached two lengths of wire and tested the new circuit - with a result first time! I just need to add a little cab grey paint to that, but that's a job for tomorrow. Right, if you look back in my build thread you will notice I had a little trouble with the folded gearboxes I have for each bogie. I was not happy with these, and if it I am to be honest, it was during the rather disapointing running when they were first inserted that caused me to slow down on my build. Chatting to Ozzyo and Two Tone Green at the O Gauge Guild the other weekend I had decided these gearboxes were going to go. I knew that upon re-assembly after completing the paintwork I was destined for yet more faffing about trying to get the gearbox and motor combination in the correct positions. Lo and behold, I'd assembled as I did before and fired her up on the test track to see not only poor running but the gearboxes occasionally jamming up completely. Having pre-empted this - on Monday afternoon I had placed an order with Slaters for two of their GB14 gearboxes which come with the Mashima 1833 motors. These were delivered to me here in Aberdeen at 9am on Tuesday - absolutely outstanding service! So I fitted these in the space of an hour each bogie... a fraction of the time it took me to fit gearboxes the first time.... and they worked an absolute treat, so smooth and super slow running even on DC: Ok, with all that calamity over with it was time to get on with finally putting this loco together. So here are a few pics of the body being assembled which despite their simplicity I have found quite difficult getting things aligned and avoiding any large gaps in the joins: Despite my best efforts to have no gaps I just couldn't seem to alleviate this one, its not a big gap but nevertheless it will need some filler in it to hide it: To get it all together I simply tack glued it to start with while holding it all in situ. I could have done with three pairs of hands but I managed and without anything pinging off this time! Once I was happy I applied more cyano glue to the joins to make them solid. ...and the progress to date then.... TAADAHHHHH!!!! I have now got to fit cab No 2 to the body but as you may be able to see from this piccy, I have lots of work to do with a file and emery cloth to get the ends to mate properly: Well that's tomorrows job along with fitting the pipes and connectors and perhaps I shall even make and fit the circular nose-end plates now that I have some of those holes punches I must have a hunt around for some 30 or 32 SWG wire to try Ozzyos' method of emulating chains on the pipes. To finish here's a few pics I took last thing as I decided to quit for the day - I was beginning to think I would never get to this point of the build: Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hi Lee, Its really looking good. Pleased you have got your gear box sorted out and pleased with the running. I am having to return the bogies for the 45 as they don't fit as such. JLTRT changed the bogies from etched to molded plastic like the 40 with a similar attachment method. So the current gears box bogie combination lacks the tabs and end supports for the buffer beam and rear spreader to hold the side frames on. So they will go back and a set of bogies similar to the 40 will be sent to me. And I was looking forward to getting something done this weekend once I get home. Back to the 108 if I get chance. Regards TTG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Yet more progress! After only a minor hiccup, and for those that may like a bit of a laugh at my expense: Yes, its my thumb print - and is the result of becoming a little too attched to the loco. The Rocket Hot (super thin cyano) really does do what it says on the bottle. Only applied a tiny amount but oh my does it get everywhere. After a little rub down with some very fine Emery paper I managed to get rid of it without any problems or blemishes. Anyway, the end result, a completed loco body: Hurrrahhh! TTG - sorry to hear about your ABC peak bogies... I guess that means you will have to build your whistler instead then Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 108 me thinks first. Would look odd one hand with a forty on it with the collective in the other. I take it your not a forties field adventurer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hi there. I've been watching this build, (but not posting), as it goes along. I'm certainly inspired by your build HM, and as soon as I can get some funds together, I'm intending to buy myself a JLTRT Peak. Keep the posts coming. It's all coming together now. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I see you have found out how strong this resin stuff is I also like your anti theft device with the thumb print. I notice on the cab front you have used 2 of the disc retaining clip castings in the front door retainer holes. There should be 4 T shaped castings to represent these. Looking good though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I did the thumb print a couple of times too, always reminds me why I dont like superglue. easy to rub off with some wet and dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted June 10, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hi Lee, Good to see you at the show and talk 40's with you. Here is what you need, ABC Gear bogies, you know it makes sense. You held them, fondled them, drawled over them, so why not give in and own some as well. The others are the ones for the 45, just so you know I had them in the bag. Now thats interesting.....I bought an ABC bogie chassis for my 40 and had the devil of a job getting it running, even sent it back once as it had a real bad "stiction" problem, anyhoo I finally sorted it out by replacing the original layshaft with a silver steel rod, turns out the original shaft was slightly bent. But I see that now ABC is using a jointed mainshaft which would negate any alignment problems....hmm. Anyhoo now I am using normal gearboxes and they run just as good I have found but those slaters brasss ection boxes look even better, I may try a couple of those soon. Not been doing much lately on either the 108 or the 40 as other things have over taken in priority, not even been able to get in here much.... Its good to see everyone is getting along with the builds though, and the 40 is looking very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Two updates in one day, good heavens...... I have spent the rest of the day getting on with some odds 'n' ends jobs. First of all fitting the pipes and connectors back onto the bogie buffer beams: I was going to stick the bogie rub plates on but then I couldn't remember whether these sit perpendicular to the bogie frame or whether they are angled slightly: If anyone could advise me I would be very greatful of the input. Next I cut out a few 2.5mm dia pieces of plastikard to make up the circular plates on the nose ends. I started trying to find some small bits of wire or something to form the three fixing bolts - I haven't got any further with that so watch this space! I then tried to assemble the 'flexible' vacuum pipes that sit ontop of the bogie frames but to be honest I didn't get very far with this task either: There isn't very much metal for these to slot into each other so I thought I would return back to this later tonight. Perhaps I need to drill out the centre on one end for its counterpart to fit into. Ok, it seems I've made an error with the door fixing furniture. Brian you are correct I used some of the disc retaining clips as I couldn't see anything else that resembles the item in question. Here is a pic of the remaining cast brass parts I have left: Please could you point out which item I should have used, and do you have any ideas or suggestions as to how I can remove the incorrect fittings as they are glued in place. After todays near miss I know eaxctly how strong this stuff is ** I have just had a look at the JLTRT parts listing PDF for the class 40 and everything that is listed I have had. I think everything that is shown above may be headcode/ headboard brackets - but I could be wrong ** Sean - thanks for your comments. I can only say that I would thoroughly recommend one of these JLTRT kits, they are excellent and certainly worth the money. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted June 10, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 10, 2011 Lee, you can get some "glue buster" from Deluxe....it works a treat getting cyano to relinquish its vice like grip on everything. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 A bief posting which might be a bit off topic - so apologies... but following OzzyO's posting showing the brake suspension chain, I said I'd have a go in 4mm for my deltic. As was pointed out, the wire I'd need would be gnats whiskers sized... so I looked on Eileens and found that I could go down to 44SWG if necessary... but wasn't sure which material to use. However... earlier this week I'd purchased some piercing saw blades and last night I noticed that they were bundled in some very fine wire. I Unwound some of this and gave it a go - two bits placed in a pin vice chuck and twist. Broke several, but 4th time lucky. This is the result. This will do - but I'll soak it in some thin glue to strengthen it. Must get this fitted! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Here are the door catches marked on the attached pictures. I did file them back a bit as I thought they stuck out too much. The rubbing plates on the bogies are angled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Brian, what can I say - thank you very much for your help once again for a quick and very accurate response. Your piccies helped enormously. I have looked at the T shaped castings and yes they do look very long to be on the front, so like yourself I shall file those down a little - I think they also need a notch filing in them on the lower side to make them look more 'catch like'. I think it wil be easy to rectify my mistake as I have some Delux Glue Buster (thank you Boxbrownie) but I think it may be easier to simply cut the existing wrong parts off and glue the T's over the top. Regarding those bogie mounted plates (used to protect the bogies bearings I gather) after I'd posted I found a pic on the 40118 restoration website which clearly showed these at an angle - but thank you once again. I'm not sure what I'd do without the help of RMWeb members I have managed to assemble one of the vacuum pipes. I wasn't keen on a simple push together and glue joint, so I drilled out a little on one side and made the other have a tapered stud to fit: Then I superglued them (keeping my fingers well away this time). This gave a good strong component. I know the part takes no stress but I could just imagine picking the loco up by this point and one of the pipes breaking if just glued. I think this is correctly put together: .. and then in situ: Well I think that is enough for today. I may get a little more done tomorrow but next week will be difficult to get some time as I'm on lates and don't usually finish work until late which makes working on my loco difficult. Jon020 - thats a great piece of work and I'm very impressed with the twisted wire that you have used to simulate chains. It looks like Ozzyo's idea is a very good one Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 A bief posting which might be a bit off topic - so apologies... but following OzzyO's posting showing the brake suspension chain, I said I'd have a go in 4mm for my deltic. As was pointed out, the wire I'd need would be gnats whiskers sized... so I looked on Eileens and found that I could go down to 44SWG if necessary... but wasn't sure which material to use. However... earlier this week I'd purchased some piercing saw blades and last night I noticed that they were bundled in some very fine wire. I Unwound some of this and gave it a go - two bits placed in a pin vice chuck and twist. Broke several, but 4th time lucky. This is the result. This will do - but I'll soak it in some thin glue to strengthen it. Must get this fitted! Hello Jon20, I use tinned copper wire, but there's no reason that copper wire wont work. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 12, 2011 Author Share Posted June 12, 2011 Here's another update after almost a full days build and I'm rather pleased with how things have gone. Pull up a seat its going to be a long one.... After Brians helpful pointer about the door retaining hook/ fastener I removed the headcode disc holders quite easily with some Deluxe Glue Buster. Simpy added a drop at the rear of the nose, let the solution work its way through the cyano holding the disc holder and then using some pliers just pulled it out without any problem at all. So I started out reshaping and modifying those T shaped bit of cast brass. After loooking at a few reference pics and a bit of filing I managed to get this (please excuse the poor image quality, its taken with my phone camera and the item in question is about 3mm in length. I did try to rescale the pic but it just appeared as a blurred mess): I filed the original 'T' down to 2.5mm, as Brian has already pointed out these were way too long, and then filed a notch in them. Fitting was simple and I was rather pleased with the outcome: To add to the nose door fittings I made some headboard brackets out of 1.6mm plastruct, cut at 45 degrees and then glued in a tiny piece of 0.5mm Plastruct rod to form the bar of the bracket (you can tell how big, erm.. I mean small, these things are from the size of the dots on my cutting mat): Adding this lot to the nose along with all the handrails was not too bad a job really. I was dreading doing the hand rails but I managed to get a jig for these and it made light work of the task to be honest: The roof detailing was just the same with a few more handrails: I haven't stuck these in situ as I'm not sure what the best option is here with regards to painting. Should I remove then before painting and then add them afterwards or should I stick them in now??? The same applies for the etch roof grille too: I have added this but not glued it in place as I fear that the primer may be too thick and gunge this up a little. Again what is the best option with this, prime it separately and then add prior to the banger blue coat?? Questions , questions.... With all that lot out of the way I couldn't resist putting the loco together to see how it looked. So heres a few pics of the loco in its 'almost complete' state: No 2 end No 1 end No 1 end No 1 end roof No 1 end (my favourite piccy so far) Well thats about it for today, I'm not sure when I will add anymore to the thread for a week or so (but you never know I may be able to get a small amount of modelling time) ..and finally, a small list of things to add to her: Air Cylinders above water tank Bogie vacuum pipes Stone Vapour boiler bodyside plate Decoder & Speaker Nose headcode & marker lights Cab glazing Cab consoles Drivers & Second mans seats Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
11D Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Thanks for sharing - this is an education in something I briefly enjoyed as a lad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 They do come out nice don't they. I would leave the 2 small handles off the top of the nose and glue them in after painting the yellow end. It is much easier to mask without these in place. The rad grill could be glued in now as the spray from a Halfords primer that I used will not block anything up. Just a thought here, I wonder if the Shawplan 37 roof fan grill etch fits the JLTRT hole as it is a better etch than what is supplied? In your list of "still to do" you did not mention the rad shutters diagonal white metal brace to glue on. Those catches look just the job with the little bits filed out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 How Do Lee, that's really coming together. If your worried about the paint clogging up the roof grill, blacken it with Birchwood Casey, then fit after painting. OzzyO. PS. don't forget the windscreen wipers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 11D - you are most welcome Brian - thank you. Its a bit of an Ooops moment again then as I have stuck the nose top handrails in place, the only wire handles I didn't stick in were those on the roof. Yes, I can see now this is going to make spraying the loco rather difficult as it seems that the yellow/ blue interface is right on those nose handles. I may have to use the Glue buster to remove them. Oh ek! It really has been a learning experience (one which seems is not over yet) - at least my next build should go easier I may have a look at the Shawplan class 37 roof grille etch and see if that fits if you think it is a better component. OzzyO - thank you. I'm sure you must be sponsored by Birchwood Casey. Its a nice idea but I think I shall leave the grille off and as it (or the Shawplan one) is brass I shall take it home and spray it using my airbrush with the Phoenix Precision etch primer. I like the Emoticons drinking beer... hmmm who does that remind me of......? As you can see the list of 'things to do' is growing and I can think of several items missing from list too. I need to get cracking with the paintwork on the bodywork as I can see this dragging the build time out considerably. I'm considering putting the glazing in and masking it off as I can see the cab interior getting a coat of banger blue if I'm not careful Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 looking great, just before you paint the roof, I think the handles are a touch long, this pic is one of Brians that he posted when I was building mine.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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