two tone green Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Thanks Lee, would love a chat about the 40. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 A little more done tonight. I've managed to almost finish off both of the cab bulkheads now, having added a little extra detailing in the form of AWS cylinders and connecting pipework. I've used 0.5mm wire bent into the odd shapes to form the pipes - having done a little research into the bulkhead detailing. All that is needed to complete the bulkheads now is the glazing in the engine room compartment doors: A close up reveals how 3D the detailing is now, and I'm quite pleased with it: I have finally managed to get both of the cab interiors sprayed with plastic etch primer ready for their coat of 'cab' grey. I need to fit a few interior details to the ceiling and I could do to find a source for O gauge fire extinguishers too. I have been looking around for these items for a while but haven't found any yet, perhaps the O gauge show next weekend will be more fruitful. With the cabs almost ready, I used some of my time to test fit the loco body sides and roof. These took a little bit of sanding and scraping to get them to fit nice and snuggly but I think the time was well spent as the outcome was a bit of a success: As soon as the cabs are done I'll be ready to get everything together so it looks like a class 40.... hopefully not to long now Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted May 27, 2011 Author Share Posted May 27, 2011 Hmmm, my last comments "Hopefully not long now".... I feel I may have been a little way off the mark there. It seems that there is an endless number of small niff-naff jobs to do and every time I sit down with my loco build I appear to find an increasing number of bits to do before I elect to stick all the cabs and body together. However, today I managed to spray the inside of the cabs after having primed them yesterday afternoon. I'm reasonably pleased with them but I guess there is always room for improvement. Once sprayed I had to let the paint go off before I could scrape the cab lights clean. I had put some Maskol on the tips of the LEDs prior to painting to make this easier and to ensure that only a small but well defined area where the light could emit is retained. This largely worked but I do need to touch up around one of the LED's to neaten things up a little. Anyway, here's the result of one of the three good LED's: Test fitting the bulkheads - I am please with the extra bit of detailing as it is clearly visible: The niff-naff jobs prevailed and I ended up painting what I think are the air/ vacuum brake pipes and also the first coat for cab seats: I was just about to apply adhesive to the body sides and roof (oh I can hear the groans already - here we go again, get on with it! ) when I realised I can make life a little easier for myself in the bodywork painting stage. I was concerned at how I would paint the exterior engine room rubber window surrounds (and keep it neat) so I thought I need to paint these prior to the application of the banger blue paint. I decided to mask off the exterior of the windows so that I can hand paint the surrounds using weathered black. When this is dry I can simply mask off the entire window, including the rubber surround, and then hey-presto I will hopefully have a neat and straight surround. If I do this now I think this stage of painting may be a lot easier with the body sides flat. Additionally, I have masked off the interior of the windows on the bodysides as these will be sprayed as per the locos original engine room bay colour. There now seems to be so much to do (the list is running at an entire side of A4).... ..and I haven't ordered the decoder and speaker yet Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Hi Lee, It's coming on really well. On the subject of painting rubbers on the engine room window surrounds. Don't bother. It's easier to paint the body blue and then when dry use a black permanent marker pen. I use the edge of a Shapie. This dries gloss but that won't matter as the matt varnish will cover this. Quick and easy solution to a 'niff naff' job. Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Nice to see another JLTRT diesel coming along, slow but steady, and very nice it is too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Vin - thank you for that 'top tip' I think I shall use that idea. Brian - thanks for your comments and encouragement, will you be in Halifax next weekend? Ok its question time again - I think I may have pointed this out before but 40118 has a circular plate on both nose end doors, adjacent to the centre lower headcode disc, as visible here steaming away at Birmingham NS in 1984. I have been searching for some time now for either an etch or circular piece of thin plastic that I can modify to depict this. I have thought of cutting some thin plasticard into a circle but chances of getting that to not resemble an egg are minimal. To date I have not managed to find anything that will be suitable and I think the item in question needs to be about 3 to 4mm in diameter. If you look at the photo the plate seems to be about the same size as the headcode disc hole plus its surround (hope that makes sense). Any ideas or suggestions? Right I'm off to detail a cab console or two....... Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted May 28, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 28, 2011 Is there a hole punch somewhere that you can lay your hands on? It might provide the right size off-cut. Alternatively, you could find a rod of the right diameter and slice a sliver off, if necessary finishing of with an emery board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Hi Lee, I won't be going to Halifax, too far from Oxford for me these days. As to your disc dilema as Phil says you can get sets of hole punches from craft shops. I have a set that I have used to punch out cab dials etch. Worth investing if you want to do anymore round things in the future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Time for an update..... .... its been a painting and detailing day today. Some of it successfull some of it not so . Firstly I primed the bufferbeam pipes and connectors with Pheonix Precision Etch paint. I have to say this is excellent to spray (albeit full of nasty stuff) and it formed a very nice coat onto which I could paint the details. I mixed up an off black matt for the pipes themselves and then primarily used satin finishes for the connectors and taps etc. I made good use of some of the JLTRT sprues too: Hmm funny how you always notice bits that you've missed in a photo isn't it? Not to worry as the Railmatch Orange always seems to need a second coat. For the MU jumpers I drilled a 1mm hole into some BBQ skewers - they made very good supports whilst spraying and painting: I've had a bit of trouble with the cab consoles to be honest, and I'm not quite sure where the problem lies as I have tried to be as meticulous as I could be with the spraying of the initial console colour. I initially sprayed the consoles with the JLTRT primer after having given them a very good wash to make sure that any horrid resin coatings were removed. All was well until I then sprayed a coat of Humbrol enamel No. 78. Initially I thought that was the correct colour but it later seemed way to light when dry (after having done a test swatch too....grrrrr). As if that wasn't bad enought when the paint was fully dry it started to develop a mottled look as though it didn't want to adhere to certain parts of the JLTRT primer. I had done some research on here regarding spraying enamels onto cellulose based paints and I think it could have been the very informative Bertie Dog (???) that explained this could be done provided the celulose was completely dry... so I gave it 8 weeks to dry! Sadly that cannot have been enough. Another coat later and the same result. Now I have always sprayed at 3:1, thinners to paint, and the third coat I changed the paint (Humbrol 105 I think) and also up'd this to 2:1. I have managed to get a result and it does look a little tatty, but to be honest, that is how I wanted it as per 40118 in her later years. With a little detail added to the console, following some photos as guidlines, here's the outcome: I have tried to do something with the AWS indicator but that failed. I took a photo of one at the weekend at the ELR but when printed out it looked like black and yellow random pixels. Back to the drwing board! Brian & 96701 - I have purchased some hole punches of various diameters to make some circular plate details for the nose fronts, so watch this space. Thank you for your suggestions. That should suffice for the moment. Hope to see some of you in Halifax tomorrow. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Here is a sunflower for you that someone put up on one of my builds a while ago. Print out and try your new punches! I see you appear to have used orange on your main res pipes? These should be yellow. Was the cab interior really a greeny colour and not dark grey? Like your cab dials. Are you going to put a little chain on the bottom of the air pipes to "hang" them up with? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Brian - thank you for the AWS rose, I shall give it a go straight away. re: main reservoir pipes...Oooops, yes they should be yellow, think I must have got carried away with the orange paint..... Out with the yellow paint then... The cab console was indeed green, I have several pics of it now showing the colour. The rest of the cab is the usual light grey interior though. I'd not thought of using chains - I shall see if I can source some whilst at Halifax tomorrow. Thank you very much for your help and encouragement. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Looking good Lee. See you at the show tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 I was just going to say that if you do not want your airpipes chained up neatly, file the pointy end off as it represents the dummy cocks that they are chaind to the bufferbeam with. It looks awfull with these still on and the airpipe left dangling. A couple of pictures attached showing them still on and chained up and with them off and dangling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Brian - thank you once again. That's very helpful. If I manage to get some small chains I shall attach accordingly or, as you have pointed out I shall remove the 'pointy' bit. After your previous email about the errors I had made today I set straight to work: ..and then added the AWS indicator: Those hole punches are just the ticket, I think that should sort out the front plate problem Right, time for a glass of wine after that lot. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Your doing such a nice job it seemed a shame to "miss" these little point bits on the air pipes. Nice to see your punches and the sunflower worked Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Hi Lee, This is my first post on your thread though I have been following your progress. The 40 is looking superb and the detail is great. I am not sure if you found out what the little disc on the front of the loco is, but from memory I am sure it had something to do with locos that had worked a royal train, I think the disc had a small hole for a phone line. I am not sure were I read this and it was a few years ago, so could be wrong. Thought it would be worth sharing. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted June 4, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2011 This is my first post on your thread though I have been following your progress. The 40 is looking superb and the detail is great. I am not sure if you found out what the little disc on the front of the loco is, but from memory I am sure it had something to do with locos that had worked a royal train, I think the disc had a small hole for a phone line. I am not sure were I read this and it was a few years ago, so could be wrong. Thought it would be worth sharing. Peter, I think you are correct. The mod is described here http://www.derbysulz...royaltrain.html (3rd para) and for evidence of 40118 on the Royal train on7 May 1974 with 40027 see http://www.prestonst...ge.php?pid=1706 Lee - excellent work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Peter, I think you are correct. The mod is described here http://www.derbysulz...royaltrain.html (3rd para) and for evidence of 40118 on the Royal train on7 May 1974 with 40027 see http://www.prestonst...ge.php?pid=1706 Lee - excellent work! Thanks Tim, I think it was that website were I first read about it. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Hi Lee, Good to see you at the show and talk 40's with you. Here is what you need, ABC Gear bogies, you know it makes sense. You held them, fondled them, drawled over them, so why not give in and own some as well. The others are the ones for the 45, just so you know I had them in the bag. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 Well what a great day out at the O Gauge Guild in Halifax... I have no idea why I haven't attended before now. Some superb advice from RMWeb members, traders and in particular from the JLTRT staff. Laurie and team were just excellent (as always). Ozzyo & TTG - it was excellent to meet with you, Ozzyo can drink beer like its going out of fashion! TTG those ABC bogies were magnificent and it was really good to chat about locos and BIH, I look forward to seeing your thread on a class 40 and of course class 45's (Booooo) PCM - thank you ever so much for your input to my thread. I have often wondered what the circular plate was for. I have spent many a happy hour perusing your Llanbourne thread, its so reminiscent of the 80's its untrue. Tim, thanks also (whats happened to your Craven thread?), your comments always welcome. I'd do some building tonight but been in the pub with Ozzyo!! Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Yes, a good day indeed. If you ever go south instead of north all the time and want to visit civilisation in deepest west Wales, get in touch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted June 5, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2011 Tim, thanks also (whats happened to your Craven thread?), your comments always welcome. Lee - Cravens on the back burner at the moment as a 3 month consulting assignment turned up which involves a weekly commute. Only 3 weeks to go but then we'll stick our boat in the water and have a couple of months sailing around the West Coast of Scotland. Hopefully, we'll get back to base and normality (wife at work; me not at work getting some modelling done during the week ) in September. I'll pick the thread back up then. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hi Lee, No worries, happy to have helped. Glad you like my Llanbourne thread. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hello Lee & TTG, it was good to meet up with yous at Halifax yesterday, it's good to have a real ale bar at a show. That's three years on the run that we've finished off all the real ale. Going to the pub after the show was a laugh. I have attached a photo what I was trying to explain to you about the hanging chains. I use some tinned copper wire of about 30 or 32 S.W.G. for this, to do the twisting I mount the open end in a pin chuck and twist away, when I'm happy with the look I just run a small amount of solder along it just to make it a bit more rigid. Hope this helps. Have to start saving for Telford now. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m davies Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hi Lee, Good to see you at the show and talk 40's with you. Here is what you need, ABC Gear bogies, you know it makes sense. You held them, fondled them, drawled over them, so why not give in and own some as well. The others are the ones for the 45, just so you know I had them in the bag. So thats what the best part of £600 of quality brass craftsmanship looks like then!, they are rather exquisite aren't they . Best Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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