Fitting etched nameplates

[Will Vale]

Hi all,

 

I'm working on a Hornby class 60 at the moment, weathering it over the factory finish rather than painting from scratch, and I wanted to fit etched plates when done. I ordered a pair of 4mm scale 60014 "Alexander Fleming" plates from Fox, and when I checked them against the body they're about 2mm shorter than the printed plates, which are 24mm long

 

I must admit I'd never thought to check - it's not like there are other suppliers of 60s and I just assumed the plates would fit. Are there others (Shawplan?) which are the right length or will I need to remove the printed plates somehow? If so, can anyone offer any tips on doing this neatly without spoiling the factory paint?

 

Many thanks,

 

Will

[gwrrob]

Will I expect you would find the Fox plates are correct and the ones on the model are incorrect.Can you remove the printed ones on the model easily ?

[Will Vale]

I don't know - I've never tried it before! I've done some more searching and read that James Makin had removed logos from a Hornby 60 using enamel thinners, so that might be a good place to start. I'll try a wee corner and see what happens.

 

Thanks,

 

Will

[buffalo]

There have been several threads in recent months on renumbering and removing printed nameplates. You should be able to find some usefull suggestions in this one or this one. A search on 'renumbering' will find these, and maybe more.

 

Nick

[Gwiwer]

I found it very frustrating to discover the etched nameplates supplied with a class 47 were fractionally smaller than the printed ones. The etched logos were unusable for the same reason. Currently all are sitting in the workbench drawer marked "loco bits" pending a suitable means of removing the printed plates.

 

I'll go check buffalo's links. While Im away doing that does anyone have any tips as to the best adhesive to use for etched plates? I find only superglue type adhesives will create the required bond but they have the disadvantage of being quite fluid; this can lead to runs or surplus oozing out onto the bodyside with potentially damaging results.

[Pugsley]

Brake fluid will remove the Hornby printing. Apply it carefully with a small brush, then keep an eye on it. The silver will come away first (IIRC). Periodically test how its doing by wiping off with a damp cotton bud. Dry off with towel and reapply brake fluid if it hasn't come away completely.

 

I haven't damaged the paint finish with this method yet!

[meld]

Hi Pugsley,

 

Out of interest which grade and make of Brake fluid do you use .. I tried this meathod years ago and was left with a unstriped lima loco in fluid even after a couple of days

 

Mike

 

 

Brake fluid will remove the Hornby printing. Apply it carefully with a small brush, then keep an eye on it. The silver will come away first (IIRC). Periodically test how its doing by wiping off with a damp cotton bud. Dry off with towel and reapply brake fluid if it hasn't come away completely.

 

I haven't damaged the paint finish with this method yet!

[Pugsley]

I'm currently using Tetrosyl DOT 4, but any DOT 3 or 4 should work. The only thing that won't, I think, is DOT 5 or 5.1 as they're silicone based.

 

If you leave it on too long it will strip all of the paint off, but it's fine for short periods of time. Just don't forget about it!

[meld]

Pugsley,

 

Thanks for that, I'll give it another go

 

Mike

[Will Vale]

Thanks for the advice - the renumbering links were helpful, it's always a question of knowing what to search for!

 

I tried the thinners and cotton bud last night on the centre of one of the plates (knowing this would be covered up) and this worked quite well. When I shifted to the end, I found that by the time I got through the frame I was seeing plastic colour underneath *outside* the plate. Arrrrgh! So I'm going to have to try and mix some paint to match. I also have a polished-looking area where I was rubbing, but I think the paint and subsequent re-weathering will help with this. Pity I'm going for a relatively clean finish though.

 

I think from reading the other threads I was probably rubbing too hard

 

does anyone have any tips as to the best adhesive to use for etched plates?

The usual suggestion is a drop of superglue, but I've seen double-sided tape recommended and that sounds well worth trying - no ooze.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[muddys-blues]

Hi, when using the brake fluid for stripping off transfers keep some warm soapy water handy, this will kill off the brake fluid when applied on to it.

 

I find Evo Stick impact great for nameplates, 2 or 3 small applications on the the rear of the plates, place onto the loco with via a cocktail stick and blue tac, the Evo stick allows enough time to position the nameplate whilst applying, then if any Evo stick does squeeze out this can easily be removed gently before it dries with a scalpel blade, as you remove the residue it should just roll or pull away as a tacky little piece of Evo stick "just like a bogie from up your nose".

[steveb860]

Will,

tonight I have been backdating the Transrail 60 into Petroleum 60013, and also have the etch plates to add to 60014. To remove Hornby printed plates I use enamel thinners, cotton buds and a lot of patience, but it works. I then attach Plates, arrows and depot plaques with Railmatch Satin varnish. Once dry I restore the loco paint finish with satin varnish applied with an airbrush,not forgetting to mask off any windows, although I appreciate not everyone has access to an airbrush.

 

Whilst you are working on Alexander Flemming, dont forget to change the RF steel repeater flashes by the cab doors, as Hornby made a mistake here,they should be Petroleum flashes.

 

Happy modelling

 

Steve

[Will Vale]

Thanks for all the tips! I don't have brake fluid to try, and in the interests of progress I tried the enamel thinners again on the other side, working much more slowly. This time I got a decent result, so a grudging thumbs up for that approach. Possibly when I went wrong I marred the finish, so rather than going through the paint I ended up grinding the black pigment freed from the nameplate into the rougher surface?

 

I ended up dealing with the dodgy side by patch-painting the entire panel from the doors to just past the nameplate. It looks like the real loco was patch painted (or patch cleaned?) in this area, but I've had to extend it further than the area shown in the pics. It doesn't look great but it'll have to do - and at least I have one good side

 

Whilst you are working on Alexander Flemming, dont forget to change the RF steel repeater flashes by the cab doors, as Hornby made a mistake here,they should be Petroleum flashes.

Do you mean the stripes by the cab doors, or something else? I checked the stripes against the prototype pictures and they look the same to me, but I could well be missing something.

 

I keep wanting to change the name to Bob Fleming, but have resisted the urge...

 

Will

[Pugsley]

I keep wanting to change the name to Bob Fleming, but have resisted the urge...

 

There problem with the repeater flashes is that they're upside-down Metals sector ones, rather than the wavy lines of the Petroleum sector. It's quite subtle, but noticeable by those that know, if you know what I mean!

 

As an aside, I've started using Canopy Glue to fix etched plates onto my locos. It's a kind of PVA, I think, which dries clear and quick, but not too quick that you can peel any excess that squeezes out the side with the end of a cocktail stick.

 

This is the stuff I use and it's very good:

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?currency=GBP&products_id=105

 

HTH

[Will Vale]

Thanks Martin, I see the difference now. It's subtle enough that I think I can live with it. Glue tip appreciated as well - I'd wondered about PVA myself, or Matte medium.

 

Will

[Crisis Rail]

No Nails with a cocktail stick - Seen many a ruined (by others) bodyshell using Superglue.

[darren01]

HI

I glue my name plates on with matt varnish ,just put a thin layer on the back of the name plate ans press in on .

As the varnish dries it pulls the name plate tight to the model ,it's a lot safer then super glue.

Hope this helps

Darren01

 

 

[Steadfast]

Hi Will,

Not sure if it'll work on Hornby (or if you can get it in NZ) but Modelstrip works a treat on any printed Bachmann detail, may be useful for you in future. It eats through the inks used for numbers, names etc, but doesn't touch the base livery paint. Annoying when stripping to respray, but ace for renumbering, naming etc. It's a thick paste, apply it with a cocktail stick, remove after 30 mins with a damp cotton bud. Repeat if neccesary

I glue my name plates on with matt varnish ,just put a thin layer on the back of the name plate ans press in on .

As the varnish dries it pulls the name plate tight to the model ,it's a lot safer then super glue.

+1

Also, any seepage can be removed once tacky, like with Evo stick mentioned earlier. If the model is receiving a top coat of Varnish after, it isn't always needed to scrape off the seepage. I've done countless models like this, none have fallen off yet! Not sure if acrylics work, but Railmatch satin or matt enamel is holding on all my plates. It stays tacky a while, which means you can adjust easily if the plate isn't quite straight

HTH

 

jo