Manchester Central, CLC & GN Warehouses & Castlefield Viaducts

[Ron Heggs]

I would definitely consider 3d printing, or casting in resin, with 75 to produce!

 

Have the mould & casting chemicals - will attempt to produce a few copies from a master

 

 * Put on the list of future builds *

 

Ron

[LongRail]

How close is:

 

http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=17277&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1

 

The Peco Dummy Point motor is well detailed but is too large and over scale as shown in the following link.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78216-minsterley-modern-image-ohle-layout/?p=1491543

[Ron Heggs]

The switch rail ties soldered to the rails -

 

 

 

 

 

A little cleaning up is required, and the bent tie straightened

[HAB]

Hello Ron,

 

Great to see continuing progress in the track building department!

 

Just a question - have you tried a vehicle through your switches?  It does look to me like there is a risk of the wheel flanges striking the bits soldered to the blades - maybe not every wheelset, but in 00 there are always a few flanges deeper than the norm.

 

Best wishes,

 

Howard

[Ron Heggs]

Hello Ron,

 

Great to see continuing progress in the track building department!

 

Just a question - have you tried a vehicle through your switches?  It does look to me like there is a risk of the wheel flanges striking the bits soldered to the blades - maybe not every wheelset, but in 00 there are always a few flanges deeper than the norm.

 

Best wishes,

 

Howard

 

Hi, Howard

 

Have run a Fruit Van and a Black 5 through without any problem. The minimum gauge at these points is 16.25mm, and flange depth is not an issue. The etches are 5 thou thick and sit mainly within the rail webs

 

Ron

[hayfield]

Ron

 

These (the switch rail stretchers) look very interesting, are they your own design ?

[Ron Heggs]

Ron

 

These (the switch rail stretchers) look very interesting, are they your own design ?

 

Hi, John

 

Yes. Designed to match the prototype whilst not dependant on visible stretcher bars keeping the rails at a fixed distance, and providing attachment point for actuators

 

Will post pictures of the etches and the construction method

 

Ron

Edited November 4, 2014 by Ron Heggs

[Pete Harvey]

Ron

 

The point work looks extremely good well done the only thing I would say is that the sleepers look a bit wide in length for 16.5mm gauge as if the need 1 maybe 2mm removing from each side so they look in proportion with the 16.5mm gauge, they maybe the correct scale length at present  and that would be fine for EM & P4 but it looks a bit wide, then again it could just be the camera angle?

 

Great work never the less.

 

Pete

[Ron Heggs]

Ron

 

The point work looks extremely good well done the only thing I would say is that the sleepers look a bit wide in length for 16.5mm gauge as if the need 1 maybe 2mm removing from each side so they look in proportion with the 16.5mm gauge, they maybe the correct scale length at present  and that would be fine for EM & P4 but it looks a bit wide, then again it could just be the camera angle?

 

Great work never the less.

 

Pete

 

Hi, Pete

 

You are quite right. There appears to be excessive timber outside the rails

 

Having cut all the sleepers at 32mm (8'-0") to match the gauge, rather than scale 8'-6", then had a senior moment or two, and the timbering was cut at scale. Need to shave 1mm off each end of the timbering

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[Ron Heggs]

The etched turnout ties - started with a CAD sketch -

Then produced the etch drawing -

Small detail - blue & green are half-etch front and rear faces

 

180 x 180mm etched sheet - 128 individual L & R etched items - Half have been removed for assembly. The copper clad strips are 1mm x 14mm to which a pair of ties are soldered 

 

Close-up of rear face

 

Close up of front face

 

Typical tie folded and awaiting trimming

 

Assembly of a pair of ties is by way of soldering to two copper strips. To obtain the correct gauge between the opposing ties a suitable wooden jig was used. To prevent any short circuit between the rails/ties a strip of the copper cladding on the underside was removed

 

Actuation can be by drilling a hole through one of the copper strips to enable a vertical operating wire to be fitted, or soldering a suitable connector to the underside to allow actuation from the side. Other options could be devised for remote operation

 

Cosmetic stretchers and operating rods can be added as required

[martin_wynne]

You are quite right. There appears to be excessive timber outside the rails

 

Having cut all the sleepers at 32mm (8'-0") to match the gauge, rather than scale 8'-6", then had a senior moment or two, and the timbering was cut at scale. Need to shave 1mm off each end of the timbering

 

Hi Ron,

 

???

 

By default Templot sets the timbering on 00 gauge templates (00-BF, 00-SF, 00-D0GAF) to 8ft long (32mm) to match the BRMSB standard for 00 gauge track.

 

Did you change the setting? The timbering is matching the templates in the pics and looks ok to me.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[Ron Heggs]

Hi Ron,

 

???

 

By default Templot sets the timbering on 00 gauge templates (00-BF, 00-SF, 00-D0GAF) to 8ft long (32mm) to match the BRMSB standard for 00 gauge track.

 

Did you change the setting? The timbering is matching the templates in the pics and looks ok to me.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

 

Hi, Martin

 

When defining the template settings for the initial plain track the timbering was set for 8' 0" (32mm)

 

Used the same template drawing to generate the turnouts and diamond. I didn't bother checking the timbering setting. I have since looked at the setting and it is 8' 6" (34mm). Cannot understand how it changed

 

Not to worry, a steel straight edge and sharp knife will sort this latest trackwork section out, and I will re-check all future template drawing settings before making a start on new trackwork sections

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[phixer64]

Hey Ron, you never cease to amaze me, with some of the simple ideas for batch construction. Superb work as usual.

 

Regards Jeff

[hayfield]

The etched turnout ties - started with a CAD sketch -

Tie#1.png

Tie#2.png

Tie#3.png

Tie#4.png

Tie#5.png

Then produced the etch drawing -

Tie#6.png

Small detail - blue & green are half-etch front and rear faces

 

IMG_0896.JPG

180 x 180mm etched sheet - 128 individual L & R etched items - Half have been removed for assembly. The copper clad strips are 1mm x 14mm to which a pair of ties are soldered 

 

IMG_0897.JPG

Close-up of rear face

 

IMG_0900.JPG

Close up of front face

 

IMG_0899.JPG

Typical tie folded and awaiting trimming

 

Assembly of a pair of ties is by way of soldering to two copper strips. To obtain the correct gauge between the opposing ties a suitable wooden jig was used. To prevent any short circuit between the rails/ties a strip of the copper cladding on the underside was removed

 

Actuation can be by drilling a hole through one of the copper strips to enable a vertical operating wire to be fitted, or soldering a suitable connector to the underside to allow actuation from the side. Other options could be devised for remote operation

 

Cosmetic stretchers and operating rods can be added as required

 

 

Ron

 

Very impressive, I guess you may have a few sales enquires coming and multi gauge at that

[LongRail]

Ron,

 

Looking back over the recent posts in more detail I note that in post #2502 you have overlapping staggered sleepers as you get close into the switch.

To me this looks a bit odd, I don't know to much about older track designs but in more recent times you would have long bearers which ran right across the switch and which are set at 90 deg to the mainline.

This would ensure the adjacent tracks are all held in place in relation to each other both vertically and laterally and allows for ballast to be provided throughout.

[ozzyo]

Hello Ron,

 

in post 2502 it looks like your using double sided copper clad, you mentioned that your gaping it on the underside. It maybe an idea to double gap it at both ends of the switch rail ties (and also do the top side as well). Then when you drill them for the operating pins you should have no chance of a short.

 

OK, it may be a bit like telling granny about eggs and all that.

 

OzzyO.

[Siberian Snooper]

Ron,

 

Looking back over the recent posts in more detail I note that in post #2502 you have overlapping staggered sleepers as you get close into the switch.

To me this looks a bit odd, I don't know to much about older track designs but in more recent times you would have long bearers which ran right across the switch and which are set at 90 deg to the mainline.

This would ensure the adjacent tracks are all held in place in relation to each other both vertically and laterally and allows for ballast to be provided throughout.

 

 

The timbering under his turnouts are square on to the mains, the timbering under the diamond is also correct, it is called equalised, all diamonds and slips are timbered to this pattern otherwise the special chairs or base plates for the noses and crossings cannot be properly supported. As soon as is convenient plain sleepers are used, as they are cheaper and easier to work with. The main requirement is that there is room to pack under the chairs and base plates.

[Ron Heggs]

Hello Ron,

 

in post 2502 it looks like your using double sided copper clad, you mentioned that your gaping it on the underside. It maybe an idea to double gap it at both ends of the switch rail ties (and also do the top side as well). Then when you drill them for the operating pins you should have no chance of a short.

 

OK, it may be a bit like telling granny about eggs and all that.

 

OzzyO.

 

Hi, Ozzy

 

I should have been a bit more explicit in my explanation of the 'gapping' of the copper clad strips

 

The underside of the strip is gapped by the removal a strip of the copper approx. 3mm wide. On the topside the copper is removed completely

 

If a problem still exists the length of the soldered tie tabs could be cut back

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[Ron Heggs]

Where's that package ? - the package containing the viaduct etches is back in the UK, and delivery is promised by TNT to my daughter's work's address first thing Monday morning. My eldest daughter will then collect it and bring back to Spain in two weeks time

 

Looks like December and January are going to be busy months

 

Ron 

[Ron Heggs]

Tried a Hornby Mk1 carriage on the trackwork, and it derailed at every common crossing. Checked the BTB, which measured 14.25mm at each of the four axles. Re-gauged them to 14.4mm, and it ran through perfectly

 

Looks as though every piece of rolling stock will need their BTB checking, and re-gauging as necessary

[martin_wynne]

Tried a Hornby Mk1 carriage on the trackwork, and it derailed at every common crossing. Checked the BTB, which measured 14.25mm at each of the four axles. Re-gauged them to 14.4mm, and it ran through perfectly

 

Looks as though every piece of rolling stock will need their BTB checking, and re-gauging as necessary

 

Hi Ron,

 

When using 1mm flangeways it is better to use 16.2mm track gauge (00-SF) for that reason.

 

The check span would then be 14.2mm, and wheels at 14.25mm BTB would run through, although the minimum normally recommended for 00-SF is 14.3mm BTB.

 

Current production of RTR models tends to be 14.4mm BTB in accordance with the NMRA requirements, as standards improve.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[hayfield]

Ron

 

I can understand that you want 1 mm flangeways, as it not only looks much better but also running characteristics will be much better. The problem that gauge is not supported by the RTR trade, you will end up having to re-gauge every piece of RTR stock.

 

I am certain you must follow ET on this site, Gordon has proved that by using 16,2 mm gauge through the crossings only (which gives you the 1 mm flangeways) works perfectly with both  modern RTR stock and items with finescale wheels.

 

Both ends of turnouts and crossings are 16.5 mm gauge, but the crossings themselves are set at 16.2 mm gauge, the additional benefit is that the gap between the point Vee and the knuckle is slightly shorter thus reducing possible wheel drop. I am more than happy to knock you up a turnout so you can evaluate it.

[Ron Heggs]

Ron

 

I can understand that you want 1 mm flangeways, as it not only looks much better but also running characteristics will be much better. The problem that gauge is not supported by the RTR trade, you will end up having to re-gauge every piece of RTR stock.

 

I am certain you must follow ET on this site, Gordon has proved that by using 16,2 mm gauge through the crossings only (which gives you the 1 mm flangeways) works perfectly with both  modern RTR stock and items with finescale wheels.

 

Both ends of turnouts and crossings are 16.5 mm gauge, but the crossings themselves are set at 16.2 mm gauge, the additional benefit is that the gap between the point Vee and the knuckle is slightly shorter thus reducing possible wheel drop. I am more than happy to knock you up a turnout so you can evaluate it.

 

Hi, John

 

Have been off modelling for a few days due to work at the local charity shops and store ready for the forthcoming Xmas Bazaar next weekend - (Mr Shifter is my name)

 

Thanks for the offer of a sample build. It is much appreciated. I have just that build underway (slowly, little at a time) at the moment to test how the gauging differences work out. Will obviously report back on this

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[Ron Heggs]

Following on from much appreciated help from Pete Harvey - PH Designs, have been investigating the production of a number of items employing 3D printing

 

Already run suitable CAD software to produce 2D & 3D designs which enable output of files in various formats, including those suitable for 3D printing

 

Items which could be produced by 3D printing are signal heads, dummy switch motors, canopy columns & gussets, decorative brick & stone work, and the decorative viaduct pier heads, to name but a few

 

Sample costings - even at the revised Shapeway pricing structure - are very attractive

 

This approach with such detailing items would allow more time to progress the layout builds including the track, structures and electrics - The really important parts of the layout

 

Will post designs and details, as they progress

[hayfield]

Hi, John

 

Have been off modelling for a few days due to work at the local charity shops and store ready for the forthcoming Xmas Bazaar next weekend - (Mr Shifter is my name)

 

Thanks for the offer of a sample build. It is much appreciated. I have just that build underway (slowly, little at a time) at the moment to test how the gauging differences work out. Will obviously report back on this

 

Cheers

 

Ron

 

Ron

 

You should be able to just use a digital calliper to set the gauge but really its the check rail gauge that will be the most important at 15.2 mm. The knuckle will be about 2 mm nearer the Vee with the size of turnouts you are using. What Gordon S has taught me is that the 16.2 track gauge is just through the crossings and you can flare out the gauge at both ends of the turnout to match up with flexi track. If building a formation you can keep to 16.2 through it but remember on curved track you will need a 3 point track gauge.

 

I look forward to seeing the progress