ozzyo Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hello all, Julian, I noticed in your photo of the grit blasting cabinet that it had no gloves/ gauntlets in the arm holes, the Clark one that I have also came with it's own gun If it doesn't have gloves you could use some heavy duty washing up gloves fastened on with Jubilee clips. Steve, now all we have to do is build the locos to show off them very nice plates. The crest for 4037 looks very tasty.. Martyn, not a problem. Got the F.R. Baltic running OK but it still has some strange things with it, I'll post more a bit later on. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Hello all, Julian, I noticed in your photo of the grit blasting cabinet that it had no gloves/ gauntlets in the arm holes, the Clark one that I have also came with it's own gun If it doesn't have gloves you could use some heavy duty washing up gloves fastened on with Jubilee clips. OzzyO. Hi Oz, Yes, mine came with all the same paraphernalia. I removed the gloves as they were just too ‘stiff’ – I guess that they were intended to protect hands from grit being blasted out at a considerably higher velocity than what I need or use. Also, the vacuum cleaner that I use is very powerful. When I first turned it on, the booth nearly imploded and the gloves were pulled rigid, such that I was unable to move my hands or arms! Therefore, I removed them and now use washing up gloves, as you have suggested. I've found the vacuum powerful enough to still efficiently maintain negative pressure inside the booth. Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Hello Julian, all, when reading your reply about the gloves going very ridged and the booth nearly imploding. Have you removed the plug from under the cover at the top left of the booth? You can see the cover in the photo below. As your using the Badger grit blaster you wont be using as much air as I do. Have you set the gun up to pick up the grit from the bottom of the cabinet? Or are you using the bottle and just refilling as and when. I do hope that your not using the grit once and then binning it. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hello Julian, all, when reading your reply about the gloves going very ridged and the booth nearly imploding. Have you removed the plug from under the cover at the top left of the booth? You can see the cover in the photo below. As your using the Badger grit blaster you wont be using as much air as I do. Have you set the gun up to pick up the grit from the bottom of the cabinet? Or are you using the bottle and just refilling as and when. I do hope that your not using the grit once and then binning it. OzzyO. Hi Oz, No, I’m afraid that I didn’t remove the plug. How embarrassment... I don’t have the Badger set up to recycle the grit, but I have thought about doing this. I have been recycling the grit – it’s too expensive to throw away after one use! In fact, I side stepped the little bottles of grit offered by Badger and went for the economy size of a 55lbs bag...! The local supplier offered me a special deal on five bags (ie 275lbs of grit), until I told him that it would take me several years to get through that much! Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hello Julian, all, I use the gun that came with the cabinet with the smallest nozzle (3 or 3.5mm) the down side is the amount of air that it requires 10 cubic feet per min. At about 50 - 60 P.S.I. Well I bit the bullet on Tues and bought myself a new ultrasonic cleaner, the tank is a good bit bigger than the old one. It's also quite a bit more powerful and has a built in heater. Well it turned up on Fri so three days from Belgium not bad at all. All I now have to figure out is what to do with the old one? New one at the back With the built in lid closed The basket in place, I may see about a metal one at a later date The tank holds about 6 litres, the old one about 2 litres. I am itching to give it a go. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 You selling the old one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hello JeffP, have a look in your PMs. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hi OzzyO. a great build, where did you get your new Ultracleaner? Len Cattley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hello scot6p, all, I got the ultrasonic cleaner off that well known auction site £150 + £15 P&P. I've still not had a chance to have a play with it yet. Some more photos of the F.R. Baltic tank to be posted soon, I've been working on the lead shielding for the nuclear reactor. Up to now I've got about 1LB of lead in the firebox, and still trying to get more in. I would have liked to get some in the side tanks but they have full insides to the tanks and as it's fully painted I don't want to use my normal method of liquid resin and lead shot. If the resin leaked that would be a paint job fubared. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 ...I've been working on the lead shielding for the nuclear reactor. Hi Oz, What method do you typically use to secure your lead shielding so that it doesn’t break up on re-entry etc? Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hi Oz, What method do you typically use to secure your lead shielding so that it doesn’t break up on re-entry etc? Julian Hello Julian, I don't think that lead shielding would be that good for heat proofing for re-entry! But to fix it in place I normally use epoxy, but I have also used carpet fitters double sided tape. As I only use a small reactor of about 1Kw I don't need that much lead shielding. But getting hold of the Uranium is getting to be a bit of a job! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 .... getting hold of the Uranium is getting to be a bit of a job! You could look in the tail space of a 747 freighter.... or the nosecap of some AP shells.... or maybe Yellow Pages? regards,(T-in-C) Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 You could look in the tail space of a 747 freighter.... or the nosecap of some AP shells.... or maybe Yellow Pages? regards,(T-in-C) Graham Hello Graham, all, not that many 747s around my neck of the woods. The Uranium on the ends of the AP shells is not any cop for the reactor as it is depleted Uranium not the good stuff. Better be careful we don't want the men in black suits and shades knocking on our doors, do we? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 I don't think that lead shielding would be that good for heat proofing for re-entry! Oz, Oh, so you're 'old school' then...? Ha. I recently purchased a large role of lead sheeting (~1mm thick), which is intended for roof flashing. My intensions are somewhat different... Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 ..... I've been working on the lead shielding for the nuclear reactor..... I bet the Iranians are pleased! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hello all, just a quick up-date on the F.R. Baltic tank. All six wheels and plunger pick-ups in place, some of you will know that the centre wheels should be at the front. These have now been moved One of the bus bars in place, I have also cleaned up the edge of this since the photo was taken The first parts of the lead shielding cut out ready for gluing together, this added just over 1Lb to the weight When I first fitted the side pieces the motor would not fit so back onto the mill and cut out two rebates to clear the motor All the lead in place, I have made up two more pieces for the front and rear of the firebox that are not shown in the previous photo of the lead been cut out I would have liked to get more weight in the loco but I didn't want to start cutting the boiler or tanks with it having a full paint job on it. So on to the couplings. As you can see the coupling hook hole is almost square and a (not sure if this is in the kit?) bracket has been fitted to help keep the coupling hook central in the hole. This could have worked, but the bracket is not deep enough to keep all the hook shaft in place. If it had been deep enough to keep the shaft in place it would have allowed the hook to swing as well. I may try to reuse them with a n shaped plate fitted on the inside so that the spring will help to hold it in place and let the hook swing a bit. On the rear one the coupling hook could rotate around so I may have to look at it a bit more to get it all to work I hope to see some of yous at Wigan show on the Sat. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hi OzzyO, you've got an interesting project going there. You mention milling. I was thinking about buying a Proxxon mini milling machine. What do you use and have you any thoughts to share about the Proxxon? Regards Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hi OzzyO, you've got an interesting project going there. You mention milling. I was thinking about buying a Proxxon mini milling machine. What do you use and have you any thoughts to share about the Proxxon? Regards Simon Hello Simon, I can't say any thing about the Proxxon mill as I have not used one. All I can say is that it seems a bit small for 7mm work, The one that I have will cut up to 300m long and 80mm wide and about 300mm from the table. We did have a thread about lathes and M/C tools in kit building & scratching on the forum that may help you. All I will say is that I did work on BIG mills for a job. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 Hi OzzyO, you've got an interesting project going there. You mention milling. I was thinking about buying a Proxxon mini milling machine. What do you use and have you any thoughts to share about the Proxxon? Regards Simon Hello Simon, all, I've had a quick look through some of my machine catalogues for some milling machines and these are some that I would consider. 1st, from machine mart, table size 585 X 190, but it doesn't tell you the travel of the table, down side is the cost £940 2nd, from machine mart, table size 400 X 92, travel 235 X100, the cost £540 The next four are from Axminster tools. These two look to be about the same machine apart from one having a 500w motor. Table size 390 X100 (92) travel 180 X 100. The cost £513 (£454) All of the above machines use a No. 3MT, for holding the cutters I would use the ER type of collet and holder. The next two are the smallest that I have looked at. The bigger one first, Table size 240 X 145, travel 180 X 90 . The cost £338. No2 MT. The smallest one now. Table size 300 X 70, travel it says 100 X 160, this seems wrong I would expect the longitudinal travel to be 160 , The cost £318 No. 1MT. If I was in the market for a new mill I would probably go for one of the two Machine Mart ones. Then you have to think about things like a machine vise jaw width between 4" & 6", some sort of chuck for holding the cutters, don't use the Jacobs chuck for this if it is only held on the Morse taper as it will work loose. One thing I will say is go for the biggest one that will fit in your workshop, it's easer to do a small job on a big machine than to do a big job on a small machine. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_t Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 ...and don't forget that the price of the mill is only half the cost, you'll need collets, cutters, vice's, etc. etc... ask me I know! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 ...and don't forget that the price of the mill is only half the cost, you'll need collets, cutters, vice's, etc. etc... ask me I know! That's why I bought my mini-lathe secondhand. Probably cost the same as a new one but then I got a load of extra kit with it, additional chucks, tools, drills etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I was lucky when I bought my Emco Compact 5 lathe, I got the milling/drilling machine complete with their co-ordinate table for £100, and the guy threw in a FULL set of 25mm collets free. The mill isn't the biggest, but the co-ordinate table is about 300mm x150mm. Shame it's only ever been used as a pillar drill. I don't even own a mill yet, only had it 15 years, and was put off trying by reading about the dangers of "climb milling" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hello all, the owner of the F.R. Baltic tank came and picked it up last week, the look on his face was worth it to me (the money was good as well) when he seen it running on my test track. The work involved, New plunger pick-ups, New couplings front and rear, New turned brass whistle, About a pound of lead around the motor, and some T.L.C. So I'm now on with the G.W.R. 4-4-2T. When I striped the body off the frames, I found that all the weight was in the boiler and smokebox, and that the loco was scratch built with all the tank side rivets drilled and soldered in place. Then I started to look at the frames, then I noticed that the front bogie wheels were up and down by about 1mm. and only held together by one screw on ether side I decided to lock them in place. So it was onto the loco frames, as this loco had rigid frames and had approx. 0.5mm rock from front to back of the drivers some of the problems may have come from the pick-ups. As luck had it the back end of the frames had screwed in frame spacers. So the first job to unscrew them and then wheels back on the track. The first spacer was OK. but the next one pulled the frames out of place. So out with the Dremill and move the hole a bit. Photos to follow later, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi OzzyO, sounds very interesting. I'm looking forward to the photos; I hope to scratch-build one of those, one day! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David the Toolman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Going back to the discussion on milling machines for a moment, I would like to add a note of caution: on any machine from east of Suez, be very careful about machines with electronic speed controls. I have had several through my hands (both lathes and mills) as a retailer of used tools and machines where the circuit boards can give problems. Sometimes they are easy to replace, but on others it's not so straightforward. Caveat emptor! The mill-drills (such as the first one - Clarke - mentioned by OzzyO) are very basic machines, but really very reliable and generally pretty accurate. They come on the second-hand market for between £300 and £600 dependent on size/age/condition. Don't forget cost of tooling - vices, collet chucks etc. - to get the thing fully operational. Get in touch if I can give more advice - info@thetoolbox.org.uk David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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