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Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.


gordon s
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  • RMweb Gold

You ever stood next to the track when they are passing? It's like an earthquake.

 

Best, Pete.

 

 

Especially when there's a diamond involved...this is the video that Pete posted on my crossing thread - the pounding that that diamond must take. Must be mureder living close to something like this.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLa29vZnX5E&feature=player_embedded#!

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Good to see you back in the groove.

 

For my scrub areas I break up the basic grass using Woodland Scenics light and medium green foliage netting. Teased out well it can easily look like brambles and weeds. I do sometimes spray the teased out foliage with a mist of mat black on the bit that'll be on the bottom to increase shadow detail. Small bits of rubberised horsehair works too when sprayed with a fixative and ground scatter added. I will then use a greyish brown very light overspray from the airbrush to tone all colors. In the real world only a very few will stand out, the color pallete will be a bit like your weathering one, don't go too far from the median and you'll be fine. A single small piece of sea moss can be used as a sapling, and if you put cameos like the old dumped mattress or oil drum make sure that it could be got there easily. If you're going to dump something its got to be fast, no one will waste time trying to get a double mattress over a nine foot fence, they'll find a lower one.

 

I use international models tufts for grass strands where they can be easily seen eg on concrete, Pete P showed how to 'roll yer own' on his fotopic site too

http://ardleybridge....t/c1412580.html

 

Thanks for the tips Paul. I've ordered some of the foliage from Hattons and that should be here today. I'll give it a go later in the week and see how it goes. I really need to build up a stock of bits and pieces as I go along. It simplifies a job no end having these bits to hand.

 

When you say you 'tone' the colours down with an airbrush, is that a very light spray with say Flat Earth colour, or something more involved. Are you using a broader colour palette?

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  • RMweb Gold
When you say you 'tone' the colours down with an airbrush, is that a very light spray with say Flat Earth colour, or something more involved. Are you using a broader colour palette?

Hi Gordon,

 

It's a long time since I did any scenic work, but I remember getting good results by spraying cold tea with the airbrush, which costs nothing. Also coloured drawing inks, which cost lots. The advantage of both is that they are dyes rather than pigments, and can be diluted very thin and built up gradually as a mist.

 

There are lots of different herbal tea bags, green teas, fruit teas, etc., in the supermarket which produce various shades of rusty, browny, greeny, dusty, colours at different dilutions. You can get a selection box of different flavour tea bags. Not tried any of those for scenic work though.

 

rusty

 

dusty

 

leafy

 

:)

 

regards,

 

Martin.

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  • RMweb Gold

Good to see you back in the groove.

 

For my scrub areas I break up the basic grass using Woodland Scenics light and medium green foliage netting. Teased out well it can easily look like brambles and weeds. I do sometimes spray the teased out foliage with a mist of mat black on the bit that'll be on the bottom to increase shadow detail. Small bits of rubberised horsehair works too when sprayed with a fixative and ground scatter added. I will then use a greyish brown very light overspray from the airbrush to tone all colors. In the real world only a very few will stand out, the color pallete will be a bit like your weathering one, don't go too far from the median and you'll be fine. A single small piece of sea moss can be used as a sapling, and if you put cameos like the old dumped mattress or oil drum make sure that it could be got there easily. If you're going to dump something its got to be fast, no one will waste time trying to get a double mattress over a nine foot fence, they'll find a lower one.

 

I use international models tufts for grass strands where they can be easily seen eg on concrete, Pete P showed how to 'roll yer own' on his fotopic site too

http://ardleybridge.fotopic.net/c1412580.html

Gordon,

 

I use pretty much the same methods as Paul, albeit using Heki foliage matting instead of the Woodlands Scenics stuff. I'd agree with the suggestion for rubberised horsehair - check out Re6/6's brambles on 'Matford' using the horsehair, sprayed with a combination of matt black and red oxide aerosols and then covered with Noch leaf material (very fine stuff) - the result is excellent.

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  • RMweb Gold

I'd agree with the suggestion for rubberised horsehair - check out Re6/6's brambles on 'Matford' using the horsehair, sprayed with a combination of matt black and red oxide aerosols

 

Don't use the stuff on the right, it's the usual thickly glued up sort available at shows, but use the stuff on the left, which is very fine antique restorers type available from Greenscene. They're the only 'scenics' trader that I've been able to get it from. (usual disclaimer)

 

post-6728-048093000 1287600907_thumb.jpg

and then covered with Noch leaf material (very fine stuff) - the result is excellent.

post-6728-047422200 1287600623_thumb.jpg

 

Available from Gaugemaster (Noch mid green flock 07304)

 

PM me Gordon if you'd like a sample.

The Grasmaster was used with the horsehair 'brambles'

 

post-6728-036911900 1287602302_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the input John, I have ordered some from Modelmasters. Pound to a penny it will be the stuff on the right....:(

 

I'll wait until it arrives and then probably have to order from Greenscene.

 

Thanks for all your help and guidance guys. You'll be pleased to know that none of it has gone to waste. Still tons to do, but I must say I'm really enjoying it and it's coming along nicely....

 

The Woodlands Scenic foliage arrived today and rubberised horsehair should be here by the weekend, so a few more enjoyable days ahead.

 

post-6950-087876400 1287602846_thumb.jpg

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Guest Max Stafford

A nice blacky browny grey for the cess will set it off perfectly now Gordon. In the days of steam it was very common for ash to be used in that area of the trackbed.

Looking marvellous so far though!

 

Dave.

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A nice blacky browny grey for the cess will set it off perfectly now Gordon. In the days of steam it was very common for ash to be used in that area of the trackbed.

Looking marvellous so far though!

 

Dave.

 

Thanks for that tip Dave. I've used a mix of grey, grey blend and cinder N gauge ballast for the cess and really wasn't sure what colour it should be. I've given it a very light overspray of the chocolate brown I use, but will experiment with your suggested colouring tomorrow.

 

I've got one eye on Tottenham at the moment. Down 4-0 at half time and down to 10 men, they've got back to 4-1, so this could be the comeback of all comebacks.....:)

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Can't take the credit for that one, CK...

 

It's one of the job lot I bought from Great Northern's Peterborough layout, that were built by Alan Downes. I've weathered it a bit and added a coal/tool shed on the back and it's now Eastwood Junction box.

 

post-6950-057358400 1287607122_thumb.jpg

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Evenin' all. :)

 

Been beavering away and reasonably happy with the grass and weeds, but a little uncertain about the bushes I have planted on the lower level. They've turned out a little like gorse bushes of which there were plenty on my golf course, but I'm not sure they are right for this position.

 

Pleased to have your views, but somehow I feel that old rail and piles of sleepers and trackwork may look better in this particular location. Feel free to critique the work so far as it's a great learning process for me..

 

post-6950-090664800 1287763612_thumb.jpg

 

post-6950-005422100 1287763616_thumb.jpg

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  • RMweb Premium

Hi Gordon,

 

I'm not sure that there would have been bushes in that sort of position at all back in the good old days.Far more pride was taken in general appearance than is now the case, when just about anything is allowed to grow anywhere so long as it isn't actually obstructing running lines.I think the sort of rough grass you have already tried is more appropriate, particularly for a very urban location. As you say, some track related stuff about to be used, or just having been replaced, might be the answer. In any event, it will be a lot easier and cheaper to change than the tender detail on a very expensive A4 :(

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Gordon

 

Looking good to me. If you are going to use large amounts of the rubberised horsehair substitute may I suggest buying a whole sheet from:

 

www.woolies-trim.co.uk

 

Look under trimmings > padding.

 

You should find it much cheaper buying it in bulk this way. As I understand it real rubberised horsehair has straighter fibres but the curly stuff is a natural fibre substitute – it works just as well though.

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  • RMweb Gold

Gordon what you've done looks good - but as you say, maybe not right for this position.

 

You know the prototype location you are emulating, I know you have or have access to photos and books with photos of these locations, so maybe just see what was on the prototype?

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Hi Gordon,

 

I'm not sure that there would have been bushes in that sort of position at all back in the good old days.Far more pride was taken in general appearance than is now the case, when just about anything is allowed to grow anywhere so long as it isn't actually obstructing running lines.I think the sort of rough grass you have already tried is more appropriate, particularly for a very urban location. As you say, some track related stuff about to be used, or just having been replaced, might be the answer. In any event, it will be a lot easier and cheaper to change than the tender detail on a very expensive A4 :(

 

:D :D

 

That was my first though GN and the more I think about it, I can visualise a few lengths of sleepered track and other debris because as it stands, there is no way of getting in or out of that particular area. I'm probably going to add some access to the signal box via a small tunnel through the wall, wider enough to take a trolley or bike, but not much more. A few bits of track and maybe some discarded iron work would be more in keeping with the industrial/urban area I'm going for.

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