Grasshopper John Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Fantastic pipework Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieS Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) Thanks Bob - I actually enjoy making up the pipes. One of the bits missing from the kit is the distinctive bracket off the frames that supports the side chimney. It's not 100% accurate, as it has to fit in with the castings in the kit, but I made up the pair and soldered them to slots cut in the frames. It looked a little empty there otherwise.. P1030106.JPG Fantastic detail, Tony. Is it coming up to Wolverhampton Model Railway Exhibition with you? If so it's going to be a bit of an 0 feast! With Stodmarsh - 0 Gauge Penrhiwceiber TWLCH - 0 Gauge Lough MPD - 0 Gauge Millend - 0-16.5 Gauge Longnor - 0-16.5 Gauge Madelenia (South American) - 0-16.5 Gauge I am going to take the liberty of posting Mac's photo of Lough MPD here as it's a relation to your project. Best Regards Edited October 13, 2015 by RonnieS 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Thanks Ron - that's a nice picture that Mac has taken! The Crostie might be at the show - I'm not sure yet. It's been one step forward and two back. Everything is painted now, and whilst that's been going on I've been working on the valve gear. Only to discover that the weighshaft bearings don't line up and the return crank pivot is 3mm too far forward. I'm not sure if it's my mistake, but I should have checked rather than assumed.. So some rework is taking place on the left hand motion bracket. I also broke off one of the exhaust support brackets ( insert suitable swear word here ) and had to make a new one. It's all completed now, and the valve gear is all working, but here is work in progress. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Tony I have built no where near the amount of 7mm kits that you have completed - but I should have kept a record for every time I have completed a running chassis then got on with the body only to find at a later date that the chassis has somehow mysteriously developed a problem which inevitably requires a strip down of one sort or another. So I feel your frustration Just part of the joy !!!! of modelling (in any scale) Regards Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks Bob - yes - I never seem to learn! Today, stripping down and painting all the bits, then attempting to re-assemble.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Thanks Bob - yes - I never seem to learn!Today, stripping down and painting all the bits, then attempting to re-assemble.... Never seem to learn. You must be a teenager. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I am a teenager. A successful first run with the Crostie on Curzon Street. Only a loose tender wheel to report. 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Very nice. Now for the dirt? Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Oh yes Jim - coming soon! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Whilst I've been waiting for the last few bits for the Crostie ( which actually came very quickly this morning ) I though I'd get on with some DCC conversions, starting with putting MX696's in my Heljan 20s. Rather than have floating connections, I thought I'd utilise the Heljan pcb to distribute the connections taking advantage of the screw terminals. The 696 has ribbon cable to connect to the outside world, that is easy enough to strip apart the wires to connect them. I had to hacksaw a chunk off the central chassis tower to allow the decoder to sit under the Heljan pcb. I also managed to reconnect the lights and get them working. I've got the fan connected to F1, but not sussed out how to config that yet. My NCE Procab couldn't read the MX696 on the program track, so I had to dig out the Sprog 2 to config the cvs and loco number from the computer. So that's the 20s done, next up ( in the background ) is a rather nice scratchbuilt Battle of Britain class. This is the birds nest, it just about fits back inside the loco body:- Edited October 27, 2015 by dibateg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Whilst I've been waiting for the last few bits for the Crostie ( which actually came very quickly this morning ) I though I'd get on with some DCC conversions, starting with putting MX696's in my Heljan 20s. Rather than have floating connections, I thought I'd utilise the Heljan pcb to distribute the connections taking advantage of the screw terminals. The 696 has ribbon cable to connect to the outside world, that is easy enough to strip apart the wires to connect them. I had to hacksaw a chunk off the central chassis tower to allow the decoder to sit under the Heljan pcb. I also managed to reconnect the lights and get them working. I've got the fan connected to F1, but not sussed out how to config that yet. My NCE Procab couldn't read the MX696 on the program track, so I had to dig out the Sprog 2 to config the cvs and loco number from the computer. So that's the 20s done, next up ( in the background ) is a rather nice scratchbuilt Battle of Britain class. This is the birds nest, it just about fits back inside the loco body:- P1030116.JPG i genuinely had no idea what you just said but it did sound dead clever. Might be why i get the wife to do the electrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Once you get to the weathering, the engines begin to come alive. Here we are part way through, there is more spraying to do yet and then hand finishing. It's beginning to look the part though... 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Once you get to the weathering, the engines begin to come alive. Here we are part way through, there is more spraying to do yet and then hand finishing. It's beginning to look the part though...IMG_20151030_145635871.jpg Yes but when is the do not move sign getting fitted as it sat in the back sidings on welling bough shed awaiting conversion? Come to think of it you could have built it up motorized and saved yourself a few quid. ( they do still have pounds in Wales? ) Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Sadly the loco is not for me Richard, and my client wants a runner! I'm midway through the weathering at the moment, it looks a little flat at the moment, hand finishing will add more variation in texture. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Meanwhile 90115 is under repair - new slidebars to replace the original Oakville whitemetal ones. My Oakville WD still has them and because the running plate is soldered to the frames, the cylinders are impossible to remove... and interesting challenge. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) Meanwhile 90115 is under repair - new slidebars to replace the original Oakville whitemetal ones. My Oakville WD still has them and because the running plate is soldered to the frames, the cylinders are impossible to remove... and interesting challenge.P1030126.JPGHi Tony, Ahh the Oakville WD, I replaced the w/metal slidebars on mine during the build and if I remember rightly I used steel bullhead rail as a replacement material albeit filed and fettled ! I was not brave enough to fit the w/metal slidebars because of it's frailty and longevity in my opinion, but obviously some have lasted well and proven me wrong. ATB, Martyn. Edited November 4, 2015 by 3 link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Tony, If you asked really nicely, it ought to be possible to obtain a pair of the brass slidebar and crosshead castings, along with the rear cylinder covers, from the Snowhill WD. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) Thanks for your kind offer Jim - the loco owner had already obtained those parts for me - just above the detached wheel.. Martyn - my Oakville WD still has the whitemetal fittings - it's over 20 years old now.... Regards Tony Edited November 5, 2015 by dibateg 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 And.. its mended... 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 I'm now on a Black 5 chassis rebuild and whilst I'm waiting for bits, I thought I'd get on with some wagons. At the Wolverhampton show I picked up some well built bargain Parkside wagons that just needed a bit of finishing. That's what I like about the small provincial shows, there are often bargains to be found. I like the Parkside kits, the only thing with the 21 tonners is that the springs re a bit puny. So I bought a batch of 3D printed springs from Simon Thompson. It's a little difficult, but it's possible with a bit of care to retro fit them to the wagon - with the temporary loss of a couple of door bangers.. New spring on the left. old one on the right:- 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Whilst tinkering with the wagons I though I's knock up a couple of ABS Iron Ore Tipplers. I like these kits, they are an enjoyable build, although the drawing pin buffers are a bit strange, so I'm using Parkside ones for this one. The Derby line will need a rake of them, so it's a case of knocking up a few at a time. It's put together with 145 degree solder with 70 for the white metal parts. Rocks by Rail in Rutland is always worth a visit, and although the wagons there are late in life and you never know what changes have been made, it's worth getting some prototype photo's. It doesn't look as though B383560 has changed much since the 1960's.. There is a whole variety of types:- 9/10ft wheelbases, different heights, brake gear and buffer variations. The fun of wagon picking... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 I have built some drawing pin buffers recently they are very affective. Ian G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 I'd like to see that Ian, have you got a photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I will take a few when I fit them to the wagon later. Ian G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 There is an article in a Gauge O Guild mag on the wagon I am building, that has better instructions on how to build them. Ian G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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