Horsetan Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 (edited) Looking forward to this: I have one to build sometime this century! Same here, but mine's the Finney version and somewhat smaller! Edited June 15, 2016 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 This thread is like a works visit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks Jeff - The rain has brought me back to the workbench, I have progressed the chassis to the cylinders. The rear covers seemed far too small, they should really come to the edge of the casing. I wonder if they are from something smaller. After some deliberation, I decided that wrapping 1mm brass section wound round would do the trick. Not perfect, but improves the chunky look of the cylinders. CPL ( Paul Bambrick now ) crank pin nuts complete the job. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 "Not perfect, ..." I cannot disagree but that's not bad! I had the same problem - see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110275-reworking-a-san-cheng-tower-gwr-1361-0-6-0st/&do=findComment&comment=2350460 We could do similar? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 I've been away a lot, but in between I've been soldering on with the 4700 in between times. There was the usual smokebox/boiler/firebox/cab relationship exercise, and it took a good few hours to sort that out. Yes, there is a little gap at the back there, but I'll sort that out, it's not fixed on yet. The motion bracket and boiler support were a distraction, so it was easier to get the whole assembly to fit between the cab and smokebox saddle first. The motion bracket and boiler support could then be tweaked to suit. I didn't use the half etched boiler bands, electing to use Slaters phosphor bronze strip instead as it was half as thick. My poor old lathe has languished in storage since I acquired it, but I'm indebted to David Smith for a refresher tutorial on using it ( O level metal work was a little while ago in my past ). I'm not sure the previous owner used it. Now it's having a clean up and some TLC. So as a trial run, I needed to make new cylinder covers for the 4700 as the cast ones were too small, and here they are produced on the Hobbymat. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Hi Tony, I always look forward to your updates, especially when it's one of my favourite locos being built. Regarding the relationship between the boiler/firebox I think you have got it spot on, over the years I have seen many fire boxes sloping backwards at a much too severe angle. I look forward to the next installment. Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Looking good! if only I knew: I might have asked you to turn a couple for me! A lathe must be on my shopping list. I spent last night turning buffer shanks in a mini drill........... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 "if only I knew: I might have asked you to turn a couple for me!" Well, dibateg did have some stock material left over ... :-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 I do and it would be an excuse to practice... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) I've not documented this build very well, the trouble is I've been away every weekend for 6 weeks or so. One thing I didn't like about the ejector brackets was that the handrail knobs stuck out a long way. So I cut them off with a piercing saw. Replacement handrail knobs has a 1.3mm shank, so that would not work with the brackets. So using my new lathe skills ( !) I turned down the shanks on 3 handrail knobs to 0.75mm so that they would fit in to a suitably drilled hole... I had to use a file to clean up, but in principle the idea worked.. Edited July 17, 2016 by dibateg 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 There is always the background task of weathering jobs to do, and it's very useful having a separate spray shop, although it is a little weather dependant being away from the house. Passing through last week have been a couple of Heljan Warships, oh I do like them. They remind me of childhood holidays at Goodrington sands.. D801 has a northern visit and is ignored by trackside workers... Hmm, my thread seems to getting more GW as time goes on.... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Martello (via Warren Shephard) did an excellent set of castings for both the four cone ejector and the special pipe/handrail brackets. As far as I am aware they are still available, but, according to Warren's website (which may not be up to date) there are some uncertainties over supply since the original proprietor of Martello passed away. Hobbyhorse also list a similar set of csastings, including the brackets, in their Tony Reynalds range, all of which would have saved messing about with modifying handrail knobs. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Hobbyhorse also list a similar set of csastings, including the brackets, in their Tony Reynalds range, all of which would have saved messing about with modifying handrail knobs. Jim Yes but then Tony would not have an excuse to play with his lathe. ; ) Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 (edited) ... all of which would have saved messing about with modifying handrail knobs. Jim But where is the fun and satisfaction in that! "Yes but then Tony would not have an excuse to play with his lathe. ; )" Just so! And fun he surely is having, and will have :-) The argument of 'You could have just bought a casting.' was levelled at me for pressing out a new smokebox door for my GWR 1361 class (www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110275-reworking-a-san-cheng-tower-gwr-1361-0-6-0st/); I would have learnt nothing from that but, as it was, I learnt quite a bit. It's not always about the most expedient solution. David Edited July 25, 2016 by Isambarduk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Thanks Jim - never thought to look there! I'll remember next time. I'm sure there will be plenty of things for me to make that are not available off the shelf! Regards Tony 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) I've been a little tardy regarding the updates and I am on to the tender now. The chassis was assembled using the Hobby Holiday jig, it just made it easy to assemble the inner chassis up square. We always worry about flared tenders. Geoff Holt always preferred forming them cold, but it was like trying to bend a spring. The instructions suggest annealing, and I'm always cautious about that as I worry about distortion. Dikitriki would be horrified by my avant garde way of annealing just the top edge. Anyway it seemed to work. But how to bend it? After considering various options, it was by using my home made bending bars, one edge of which is rounded off. Because the sides and back are one piece, the whole etch has to go in the bars at once. So the top edge went in, only about 1-2 mm was actually gripped and basically the side was pushed over against the edge of the bench. It seemed to work... The cylinder unit sports my homemade covers, the valve covers are tucked away behind the valences, which is just as well as they could be a bit tidier - but I am still developing my turning skills.. That is a wine glass nearby, sometimes in the evening, I just spend half an hour cleaning up or cutting out the next days parts...I've found that generally late in the evening is not a time to put things together... Edited July 31, 2016 by dibateg 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I've been a little tardy regarding the updates and I am on to the tender now. The chassis was assembled using the Hobby Holiday jig, it just made it easy to assemble the inner chassis up square.P1030679.JPGWe always worry about flared tenders. Geoff Holt always preferred forming them cold, but it was like trying to bend a spring. The instructions suggest annealing, and I'm always cautious about that as I worry about distortion. Dikitriki would be horrified by my avant garde way of annealing just the top edge. Anyway it seemed to work. But how to bend it? After considering various options, it was by using my home made bending bars, one edge of which is rounded off. Because the sides and back are one piece, the whole etch has to go in the bars at once. So the top edge went in, only about 1-2 mm was actually gripped and basically the side was pushed over against the edge of the bench. It seemed to work... The cylinder unit sports my homemade covers, the valve covers are tucked away behind the valences, which is just as well as they could be a bit tidier - but I am still developing my turning skills..P1030687.JPGThat is a wine glass nearby, sometimes in the evening, I just spend half an hour cleaning up or cutting out the next days parts...I've found that generally late in the evening is not a time to put things together... Well not after a glass or two of wine anyway. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Something I use most days when I am working, is my soldering iron and I've had an Antex variable temperature one for 30 years and its been great until recently, when Antex changed the design of the tips. The old ones used to have a collar that gripped the tip to the element. The new ones have a sort of internal spring to hold it in place and they just don't get the heat transfer. So a move to modern and German technology, an Ersa Icon 1, it's excellent... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) The Ersa Icon 1 is great, I'm very pleased that I purchased it. This is rather a loco fest than informative constructional work, but there is great pleasure in examining model locomotives. The 47xx is now ready for it's track test after a couple of days finishing off and pushing it up and down on my test 6' reverse curve. Then it is off to Warren Heywood for painting and lining. I'm not really a GW fellow, but it is a rather magnificent machine:- Passing through the weathering shops are: An upgraded far east Patriot 45506 The Royal Pioneer Corps. These named loco's are quite poignant given we are at the 100th anniversary of WW1. A nice model, slightly clean, but with plenty of everyday grime around:- And a little more humble, 41528, I'm not sure the origin of the kit, but looking very workday:- In for a new MSC JH motor/gearbox to replace the original set up is this Leinster Q 30543. I think its either tinplate or steel, either way it is showing genuine rust in places! It is of it's age, but I rather like it:- Also in for some minor repairs is this rather nice Northstar King Arthur 30799 Sir Ironside. Very nice.. Edited August 15, 2016 by dibateg 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 The big Churchward 47 is a mighty impressive looking locomotive. Great job. Great weathering as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 The 48xx smoke box looks very long in its bare picture . Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 They did have a long smoke box 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 image.jpeg They did have a long smoke box Never doubted its accuracy, the builder would not allow an inaccuracy to creep in, just an observation that it's length was highlighted by the brass picture.Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 No I know that, I just thought I would pop a real picture up to show it for real 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I just hope this build will reach completion one day in the not so far off future http://www.4709.org.uk/ Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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