Any Question Answered

[Donw]

I find that for a brass dome a torch with a small flame works well. Tin the boiler where the dome will sit, tin the underside of the dome place the dome in position and heat the dome not the boiler it should just settle nicely into place. If not quite in posistion heat the dome until the solder melts then move it slightly. Obviously do not try this with a whitemetal dome. As the torch is not touching the dome I find I do not move it as I might with a soldering iron. Other than that a resistance soldering unit may be your best bet.

Don

[Nig H]

Does anyone have good advice on fitting steam domes? 

First there's the problem of holding it in position while soldering it.

And the second problem is how to solder it.

1st - Holding it seems to require some sort of screw from below, if you can access it, but is it best to have a tiny screw through a tiny hole  or a larger hole in boiler with a smaller screw through a rectangular washer so that it sits better and can be soldered from below while being held in position. Seems quite difficult also to have the undersurface absolutely fitting the boiler curve, and a large hole might help here.

2nd - Is it better to solder from within boiler or around the top (edge of dome) with a soldering iron. There are some fittings soldered into the top of the dome so a blowlamp will certainly disturb them and a even a large iron might if the brass dome gets too hot.

And finally it needs to be done so that everything underneath can be removed thus allowing the weights in the boiler to slide into position.

What methods have people found works.

Many thanks for any tips.

I always araldite dooms and chimneys in place. You can make small adjustments before the araldite sets. I usually fit domes etc after all soldering work on the boiler has been done. And I have never had a dome etc fitted this way get knocked off, or come loose.

 

Nig H

[oily]

I always araldite dooms and chimneys in place. You can make small adjustments before the araldite sets. I usually fit domes etc after all soldering work on the boiler has been done. And I have never had a dome etc fitted this way get knocked off, or come loose.

 

Nig H

Thanks for that experience of its reliability, I did think of that possibility, but I wondered how Araldite would tolerate strong cleaning and degreasing agents prior to painting.

[2mm Andy]

Hi, I've a couple of questions, if you'd be so kind..

 

Does the 'ram' mentioned in buffers 2-064 to 2-068 refer to the distance from the head to the piston casing, i.e. the distance the head can move back before hitting the piston case?

 

I'm looking for the right buffers for the association's 24.5t mineral wagons, and wondering which ones are suitable as the 2-425/2 turned head ones suggested use the old codes.

 

Paul

 

I think it's the diameter of the ram, not the length that is quoted.

 

I'll dig out an old product listing when I get home - then I should be able to give you the direct equivalent in the new numbering system.

 

Andy

[2mm Andy]

I think it's the diameter of the ram, not the length that is quoted.

 

I'll dig out an old product listing when I get home - then I should be able to give you the direct equivalent in the new numbering system.

 

Andy

 

Further to the above, the new number for 2-425/2 is 2-065 (1'4" head, 3" ram)

 

Andy

[oily]

Can anyone who has made the Worseley Works GWR 2-8-0T or 2-8-2T please tell me what is the smallest diameter curve it will run around? That's without making special arrangements in the chassis such as removing flanges or cutting away the back of the cylinders etc. Many thanks.

[2mmMark]

Thanks for that experience of its reliability, I did think of that possibility, but I wondered how Araldite would tolerate strong cleaning and degreasing agents prior to painting.

Provided it's fully cured and the surfaces to be joined are clean, the original slow-setting Araldite makes a very strong bond.

[-missy-]

Can anyone who has made the Worseley Works GWR 2-8-0T or 2-8-2T please tell me what is the smallest diameter curve it will run around? That's without making special arrangements in the chassis such as removing flanges or cutting away the back of the cylinders etc. Many thanks.

 

Hi.

 

I built mine with 7mm wide frames and it goes around 2ft radius curves without any problems. I did engineer in a bit of sideplay on the wheels though, they have around 1mm of sideways travel. In a previous life / chassis it was built to standard 2mm standards and it couldnt manage a 2ft radius curve.

 

Missy

[54Strat]

Further to the above, the new number for 2-425/2 is 2-065 (1'4" head, 3" ram)

 

Andy

Thanks Andy, I'll put some on my next order. And thanks for the explanation, it makes sense.

 

Paul

[cornish trains jez]

Hi,

 

Does anyone know whether the wheel sets on the Dapol A4 would need turning down to 2FS standards as they look very fine as they are? I would like them to run smoothly over 2FS easitrac turnouts.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[richbrummitt]

Does anyone know whether the wheel sets on the Dapol A4 would need turning down to 2FS standards as they look very fine as they are? I would like them to run smoothly over 2FS easitrac turnouts.

 

I cannot answer this question directly but I remember someone telling me that the RP25 and 2FS profile was very similar. I don't remember whether they are similar enough to be compatible one or both ways. 

 

That aside you will need to re-gauge the wheels regardless. In my opinion the most cost effective route is to package the wheel sets up and send them to the Association Wheel Turning Service. They will be returned such that they fit straight back in and work on the Easitrac you ordered recently 'out of the box'. The downside is that you won't be able to go back - but who would want to do such a silly thing as that? 

Edited September 24, 2013 by richbrummitt

[oily]

Just having a radical clear out and found "Almark Practical Guides - N Gauge Model Railways by Michael Andress" 1972.

Free to anyone who'd like it. Not sure what it would cost to post these days so hope I'm not risking too much!!

[Chris Higgs]

Hi,

 

Does anyone know whether the wheel sets on the Dapol A4 would need turning down to 2FS standards as they look very fine as they are? I would like them to run smoothly over 2FS easitrac turnouts.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

Almost certainly they will not be fine enough. The key dimension will be the the flange width. I believe when N-gaugers talk about RP-25 they mean RP-25 Code 72 - see the following

 

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/pdf/RP-25%202009.07.pdf

 

In the RP-25 wheel profiles the flange width (T) and depth (D') are pretty much the same (as it is on a real wheel), in this case 0.5mm (20 thou to our American cousins). Whereas for 2FS the flange depth should be 0.5mm, but the width only 0.3mm. So those wheels are going to get stuck in the checkrail gap, which is also 0.5mm. At the least you will need the back of the large turning down a bit.

 

And as pointed out you will need to regauge the back-to-back.

 

Chris

[cornish trains jez]

Thanks guys for your advice. I'll have to carefully remove the wheels and send them off for wheel turning. I was considering laying my easitrac with N gauge clearances but I think it will be too much hassle trying to widen all the checkrails so I'd rather rewheel the stock. To be honest I will start a program of rewheeling my stock bit by bit anyway as I am no longer modelling in N gauge.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[garethashenden]

The LNWR society website says that 2mm transfers for LNWR are made by a man named Phil Smith. Does anyone know him or how I can get any of his transfers? I'll need both wagon and locomotive transfers. Thanks!

[Pyewipe Jct]

The LNWR society website says that 2mm transfers for LNWR are made by a man named Phil Smith. Does anyone know him or how I can get any of his transfers? I'll need both wagon and locomotive transfers. Thanks!

 

There's contact/ordering info on the 2mm SA website under the 'Small Suppliers' link in 'Products':

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/philsmith/index.htm

 

I've had quite a few sets & can vouch for their quality.

 

 

HTH,

 

Kevin

[garethashenden]

There's contact/ordering info on the 2mm SA website under the 'Small Suppliers' link in 'Products':

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/philsmith/index.htm

 

I've had quite a few sets & can vouch for their quality.

 

 

HTH,

 

Kevin

Excellent, Thank you.

[Nigelcliffe]

Hi I've been on the Fencehouses site but I can't seem to find out how you order a kit

Anyone know

Regards. John

 

Find the email address for Bob Jones in the 2mm Yearbook (at the back).  Email him, or write to the address given. 

 

( I'm not putting Bob's email address on a public forum ).

 

- Nigel

[Crosland]

Hi I've been on the Fencehouses site but I can't seem to find out how you order a kit

Anyone know

Regards. John

There is a price list with ordering details buried on the blog, but it is certainly not easy to find.

 

Andrew

[Hendreladis]

Been fiddling about with a batch of Whall style motors (or maybe 'Hine' style motors to be more accurate) and would like an opinion on the end plates. I am unable to track down any 3mm Carp Tufnol and the Whale just won't take a decent thread. I hacked one out of perspex as in the photo attached. Obviously it takes a thread etc. and ought to be tough enough for the job in hand but I wonder if anyone has any experience of perspex in this application long term? Will it degrade or embrittle so as to cause a problem?

I'd like to crack on with all of the motors as a batch before I am diverted by something more compelling but if perspex is not up to the job I'll consign them to my gloat box.

Alternatively does anyone know of a supply of 3mm Carp? I can source 4 foot square sheets but I don't want to have to build that many motors.
Please note that I am not concerned about the electrical properties of perspex - v - tufnol.

 

 

 

 

[Alex Duckworth]

Been fiddling about with a batch of Whall style motors (or maybe 'Hine' style motors to be more accurate) and would like an opinion on the end plates. I am unable to track down any 3mm Carp Tufnol and the Whale just won't take a decent thread. I hacked one out of perspex as in the photo attached. Obviously it takes a thread etc. and ought to be tough enough for the job in hand but I wonder if anyone has any experience of perspex in this application long term? Will it degrade or embrittle so as to cause a problem?

 

I'd like to crack on with all of the motors as a batch before I am diverted by something more compelling but if perspex is not up to the job I'll consign them to my gloat box.

 

Alternatively does anyone know of a supply of 3mm Carp? I can source 4 foot square sheets but I don't want to have to build that many motors.

Please note that I am not concerned about the electrical properties of perspex - v - tufnol.

 In my experience Perspex has excellent long term stability and does not degrade - as long as it's real Perspex and not a cheap substitute like the acrylic sheet sold for double glazing. Offcuts are often available from local plastics stockists and fabricators.

 

Alex.

[cornish trains jez]

Hi everyone,

 

Does anyone know which 15ft 2FS chassis would be most suited as a replacement for the Peco one on their china clay CDA wagon? I've checked on the products page but there are about 2or 3 different variations and I'm not super clued up on wagon chassis.

Many thanks in advance.

 

Jeremy

Edited October 16, 2013 by cornish trains jez

[Etched Pixels]

There are a couple of versions of the CDA, and the brake arrangements differ between them. In addition you've got clasp brakes on two corners and disc on the other two (ie each axle has one of each type of brake). The wheels should be 7mm diameter.

 

Not sure any of the wagon etches will help you.

[cornish trains jez]

There are a couple of versions of the CDA, and the brake arrangements differ between them. In addition you've got clasp brakes on two corners and disc on the other two (ie each axle has one of each type of brake). The wheels should be 7mm diameter.

 

Not sure any of the wagon etches will help you.

Thanks Etched Pixels. I may have to move to plan B in that case then and just try and enhance the current chassis. Replacement brass buffers, remove couplings and add chain link etc.

[Crosland]

 In my experience Perspex has excellent long term stability and does not degrade - as long as it's real Perspex and not a cheap substitute like the acrylic sheet sold for double glazing. Offcuts are often available from local plastics stockists and fabricators.

 

Alex.

Perspex is a trade name. I have always though it is acrylic. Anyone know for certain?

 

Andrew