Douglas G Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I am not sure if this has been covered already - I couldn't find anything with the search and there doesn't seem to be a topic for photography on the forum. I was wondering what people recomend for lighting their models for photographs for posting on RMWeb and for use in magazine articles. I am thinking about close-ups showing models being built rather than layout photos. I knocked up a couple of bayonet light fittings on a wooden frame with two 60 W daylight bulbs, but found that even with another angelpoise light with another daylight bulb added in, the pics weren't as bright or clear as I would like. Can anyone recommend a specific type of bulb to use or reasonably cheap lighting equipment that would do the job please? Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod5 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Douglas the photography area is here. It is within the Special Interests list which is a bit full and you do have to look for it. Without doubt this sort of thing has been covered before and if you have a look in there you may well find something to help you. If not I am sure others will be along later to help. We do have some excellent photographers amongst our members. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Douglas the photography area is here. It is within the Special Interests list which is a bit full and you do have to look for it. Without doubt this sort of thing has been covered before and if you have a look in there you may well find something to help you. If not I am sure others will be along later to help. We do have some excellent photographers amongst our members. Thanks for that. I was sure I had seen a topic for this but I couldn't see it in the Special Interests section. The topics there seem to be in alphabetical order all apart from this one on "Photography", which appears among topics beginning with "R", so I missed it. Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 As Richard has said you can't beat daylight but it's not always practical to take the whole workbench or layout outside. I use a couple of 65W (energy saver type) daylight lamps which equate to 325W in traditional bulbs if I need to light bench content well, e.g - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x10-inch-Photo-Studio-lighting-kit-2x-Lamps-2x-Stand-/360403874441?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item53e9beb289#ht_3214wt_1396 Sometimes the subject matter doesn't merit dragging those out so I just make sure I use a tripod and long exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted October 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2011 Some of the finest (non-professional) photography on here is by Ben Alder in his Kylesku & The Mound thread and blog. He waits for the sun to be in the right position for his indoor layout, with stunning results. Not so easy if your layout is in a window-less loft! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thanks all for your comments. My modelling area gets little daylight so that is a problem, especially now autumn is here. We have a conservatory, but it is north-facing so not as light as it could be. I had wondered about replacement bulbs for my home-made lighting rig, but the two light fittings I used are bayonet fit whereas all the energy saving photo bulbs seem to be screw fit. Andy, the prices of the daylight photographic bulbs alone make that lighting set you link to seem to be a very good price. Food for thought... Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Douglas, I achieve some quite reasonable close up pictures putting the camera into A for aperture mode, setting the aperture to as large a setting as possible (gives best focus) and then sticking the camera on something solid and using the self timer to set it off. There are some close ups on my Blog taken in the loft illuminated by fluorescent fittings. Good luck Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trevellan Posted October 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2011 Douglas, I would echo the comments about daylight giving the best effects. My "studio" is currently a corner of my kitchen where I can set up a plain backdrop (lining paper) near a window. The camera is placed on a tripod and shots are taken on aperture priority using the self-timer and, usually, macro mode. A good reflector is a must and a sheet of bright white card does the trick for me. A sample shot is reproduced below: Since this image was taken I've been experimenting with the CombineZP software recommended by our Beloved Leader in Modelling Inspiration #1. Definitely worth a try! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Some of the finest (non-professional) photography on here is by Ben Alder in his Kylesku & The Mound thread and blog. He waits for the sun to be in the right position for his indoor layout, with stunning results. Not so easy if your layout is in a window-less loft! :blush: ; the daylight is a welcome bonus when it is at the right angle, but I found that I could get acceptable results with the existing lights as well- full spectrum strips- see here for details-. I have two 4' tubes and they provide enough illumination for both working and photography, although Andy's suggestion would be needed, I think, for printed work, which requires more "oomph" than needed for publishing on RMw. The daylight tubes do provide a comfortable level of light though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 setting the aperture to as large a setting as possible (gives best focus) I presume by this you mean the largest f number which actually refers to the smallest hole. Normally when referring to apertures we talk about the size of the hole, not the number, to avoid confusion. Sometimes the use of the smallest aperture (hole) can lead to diffraction which reduces sharpness; optimum optical performance with most DX/FX format lenses is around f11. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Yes Richard - pin holes. I see from the notes on Flickr that most of my loft pictures are taken at F8: Regards Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I use either a 500w security light or the daylight fluorescent tube above the layout. It also helps to have a camera that can colour balance off a white card, or adjust each image afterwards with your favourite photo editing software. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I ignore the textbook 'loss of sharpness through defraction' and put depth of field first using the smallest aperture possible. Post-processing will deal with sharpness and contrast etc. I shoot outdoors even at dusk (extended exposures aren't a problems if the camera is supported). In fact I prefer overcast skies for some colours and to show detail on the bogies. However, I also shoot indoors when doing a workbench on coach construction and often use wide apertures to throw the background out of focus when shooting detail items. Just a simple 60 watt desk light set low, self-timer and a white paper backdrop. Colour casts are corrected afterwards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Thanks everyone for your useful comments. I have put in an order for the photographic ights that Andy linked to as I will be doing photos in a quite a dark area. Nevertheless, I will try to get models outside for natural light wherever possible. When my model of Dulverton is constructed I hope to light it with a couple of daylight fluorescent tubes, which will help photography. Cheers, Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Put the camera on a tripod or use a pile of books to make a firm base that it can stand on and set the camera on f8 or higher. Then use the camera self timer so that there is no blurring caused by pressing the shutter release. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixteen 12by 10s Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 :blush: ; the daylight is a welcome bonus when it is at the right angle, but I found that I could get acceptable results with the existing lights as well- full spectrum strips- see here for details-. I have two 4' tubes and they provide enough illumination for both working and photography, although Andy's suggestion would be needed, I think, for printed work, which requires more "oomph" than needed for publishing on RMw. The daylight tubes do provide a comfortable level of light though. Hi All I can back up what Ben Alder commented on the use of “full spectrum lighting”. I have just changed 750 tubes, in a machine shop to 6500K spec lamps. The light quality is much better and is worth the extra few pence a lamp. Go to your local wholesaler, but ask for 865 colour, the man behind the desk will give you a funny look if you start quoting Kelvin spectrum to him. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 But its important to note its not all about getting the light right. There can be other things that can help get you decent model images. I created the following image using combineZP as recommended by Andy Y. I set my camera up to fix the ISO, and took lots of photos changing the focus points. The light I used was simply this http://www.argos.co....3EDESK+LAMP.htm (desk lamp). I did build a small light box from white foamboard, ( very crudely a base, 2 sides and a back board, and a few sheets of paper to hide the joins ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Sunlight....? What sunlight. I'd heard of a particular trick by setting the white balance on the camera for the daylight white fluorescent tube on the layout, then using a 400w security light at a fairly low angle to warm the scene up. This also gives the advantage (if you want it) of reducing high contrast shadows that you'd normally get from a single light source but are shunned in model photography and illumination. I also used CombineZP (does exactly what it says) and a little correction in Photoshop elements. Santa will have to think of something else to bring as it seems there's plenty of life left in my 8mp camera just yet, it's never been too good with depth of field and model distances but a little processing and the use of CombineZP has restored my faith in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 6, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2011 Some of the full spectrum tubes include quite a bit of the ultra violet range and can cause colour fading if used for normal lighting. Mind you so can sunlight! Learn about your camera it is interesting to take the same shot with aperture priority and with speed priority an see the difference this is cheap to do with digital. One of the principal reasons for usuing a small aperture is that it increases the depth of field usually a good idea on models. Fast speeds are especially needed for movement. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted November 6, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2011 Hi All Whatever lighting you are using the shadows are also key to realism For that reason you cant beat natural light - take a look at this clip filmed in a low evening sun with the layout in the garden and you will see what I mean. Sorry about the dead cows! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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