RMweb Gold 30801 Posted April 23, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23, 2010 64650 gtfc Try and see if you can get hold of some Loctite 601 (red bottle) from Eileens Emporium or another supplier. This is a "retainer" fluid (green) which, unlike "superglue" would alllow you to remove the retaining screws in the future whilst locking them in place under normal running. I got a set of Slaters axles for mine. They fit the wheels much better and also the retaining screws are better formed. I found the socket in the Hachette screws tends to round off easily making it difficult to remove. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I also had the problem with the soft screws. I have tightened them up so many times they have rounded. I have some slaters wheels for a Bulleid pacific kit I am going to build after this one. I will try these and get some spare screw at a later date. I had thought about Loctite too. Once I have got the chassis painted and the valve gear on I may try it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevelner Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 hi gents. wish i,had issue no 104 still waiting newsi guy is sick of me asking .and guess what this weeks 121 missing. any way will have to wait to fix the pickups.later on when 104 comes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Hi Steveiner,I had exactly the same problem with McColl,s who in turn blamed Menzies after 110 issues,I phoned Hachette and am now getting them once a month(a bit slow but none the less!!----ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hi Everyone, Just thought I'd let you all know there's quite a lot of photo's of the Flying Scotsman on flickr.com some are official pictures, others seem to be taken by adventurers and enthusiasts. There are also some that are historical in nature cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Can one ask where do you get these replacement screws for the wheels, and are they better than the ones we have now, and is it necessary to keep removing wheels and putting them on again.. Excuse me for asking.. Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Can one ask where do you get these replacement screws for the wheels, and are they better than the ones we have now, and is it necessary to keep removing wheels and putting them on again.. Excuse me for asking.. Ted Pecksniff and all, Items mail order, Phone 01427 848880. You want 6BA X1/4" Counter sunk socket (Allen) screws, £3.26 for ten, 0.050" (1.27mm) Allen key .33p. These are the same size as used by Slater's and Walsall. Down side min. order of £10.00 (blame the banks for the bank charges for that one). Have dealt with him for a good number of years, phone order in on Tues. normally on my mat Wed. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hi Ozzyo Thanks for the reply all fully noted.. Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotblack Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Pecksniff and all, Items mail order, Phone 01427 848880. You want 6BA X1/4" Counter sunk socket (Allen) screws, £3.26 for ten, 0.050" (1.27mm) Allen key .33p. These are the same size as used by Slater's and Walsall. Down side min. order of £10.00 (blame the banks for the bank charges for that one). Have dealt with him for a good number of years, phone order in on Tues. normally on my mat Wed. OzzyO. A word of warning to anyone thinking of buying these screws; the Hachette axles are tapped with a METRIC thread and BA screws will not fit. You will need to replace both screws and axles with the Slaters equivalent. Regards Donald Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 A word of warning to anyone thinking of buying these screws; the Hachette axles are tapped with a METRIC thread and BA screws will not fit. You will need to replace both screws and axles with the Slaters equivalent. Regards Donald So what your saying Donald you have to invest in slaters wheels, is this a ploy by Hatchette and also if I dont get proper Flying Scotsman Named plates and they try to fob me off with transfers it will go where it belongs down the local tip.... Regards.. Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted April 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 25, 2010 So what your saying Donald you have to invest in slaters wheels, is this a ploy by Hatchette No, you just need the axles & screws part no X78002 . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotblack Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Slaters actually do a set of 3 axles (part no X78002G) which are machined to give 120° "quartering", which is correct for 3 cylinder locos such as the Scotsman. As it is impossible to see both sides of the loco at one time it is not essential to use these, but anyone who wants their loco to be as accurate as possible might be interested. Donald Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 To all the gurus of railway models Should this be in the 5 oclock position or the 6 oclock position as in the front cover its all beyond me.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 Hi Guys, I really don't like the way we're supposed glue these cylinder covers onto the zamac bit that we screwed onto the chassis in previous issues! is anybody doing anything different? I don't see those covers staying on there very long! I'm definitely not going that route it's rubbish! ( and that's being polite ), just trying to come up with a better way of putting these things together. When I do I'll post it Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotblack Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Should this be in the 5 oclock position or the 6 oclock position as in the front cover Hi Pecksniff The five o'clock position (and seven o'clock on the opposite side) is correct going by photographic evidence. Regards Donald Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 A definitive answer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Thank you Donald and John I have looked at several pics and at different eras they seem to be at 5 or 6 or is it just me..lol seems strange they publish a photo on the front cover with them in 6 oclock position again thanks.. Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hudsonrobert49 Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Hi all, any one got any tips on how to spray the boiler once its bolted to the foot plate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 Hi, Hudsonrobert69, I personally would'nt go that road! if you can take off the boiler and seperate it from the foot plate you'll end up with clean lines,that's the way I'm going-also I'm leaving the hand-rails off as well,remember the "Lining still to go on",hope this is of help.---ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hudsonrobert49 Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Hi, Hudsonrobert69, I personally would'nt go that road! if you can take off the boiler and seperate it from the foot plate you'll end up with clean lines,that's the way I'm going-also I'm leaving the hand-rails off as well,remember the "Lining still to go on",hope this is of help.---ROB Blue Peter, yes was helpful, i had forgot about the Lining still to go on, they would be best done after painting the boiler. thanks mate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Hi Guys, I really don't like the way we're supposed glue these cylinder covers onto the zamac bit that we screwed onto the chassis in previous issues! is anybody doing anything different? I don't see those covers staying on there very long! I'm definitely not going that route it's rubbish! ( and that's being polite ), just trying to come up with a better way of putting these things together. When I do I'll post it Mark Hi mark, "ARLDITE" WORKS OK!!---ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 I have to say I do think some of you have a remarkable lack of faith in modern adhesives. Provided the surfaces are clean, the adhesive suitable, and of reasonable quality, you can stick most things successfully. Most things in modern industry glued together these days. In any case, worst thing is that you have to stick back on again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 Backhead,empty cab Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 Slowly comng together now,("Ican see a light at the proverbual end of TUNNEL")excuse the pun --ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 These were the cross heads I made from Brass! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.