LongRail Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Ian they look correct recognise them straight away, amazing what can be achieved these days. That cutting mat has seen some action by the look of it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2014 Thanks Gary Thats my original cutting mat so yes it had a lot of action on it - about 5 layouts worth of building and associated stock. It is fiddly painting these little lights even under an illuminated magnifier but its going to be worth it. As of this morning I have completed about 20 of them ready to fit tonight. The rest will follow in the next week or so. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2014 Hi Ian, The lights look great. A shame they're not on a sprue though - would make painting them a lot easier!! Cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted February 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2014 Are they going to work? In that semi-clear FUD(?) I would guess that a bulb below the baseboard would produce realistic light through the unpainted pit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Easy to put them on a spruce, but it doubled the cost, such are the joys of stereolithography economics! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2014 Not being on a sprue made them a little trickier to clean but painting was just as easy individually and also meant that there was no risk of breaking them cutting them off a sprue so didnt make any real difference. It possibly has been slightly easier individually when painting the thin black areas as I could just rotate them in my fingers ot a suitable angle. I would like to light them up by drilling right through the boards but for now they will not be illuminated. I will glue them in with canopy glue rather then superglue so that I can always remove them later. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted February 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2014 I enjoyed seeing this layout earlier today. Excellent modelling. Well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post roundhouse Posted February 15, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted February 15, 2014 Thanks a Budgie It was a very pleasant relaxing day where we ran quite a few different trains to the normal, had a good chat and sorted a few glitches out. A great day for us made even better by being so close to home. In the pub before 6pm! The Arbel car carriers ran without a hitch. However I didn't get the semaphores working after relocating and retiring the circuit board probably due yo me incorrectly reprogramming it. We did have a colour light working for the first time. The carriage siding walkway lights installation is progressing well but still many of them to paint and then install on the layout. Some photos taken today. Ian 25 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 16, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2014 I kept looking at the newly installed carriage siding lights as something just didn't seem right. Turns out that The spacing was too close, so checking Longs plans a few posts back I had incorrectly set them just over 20mm apart when they should be about 32mm apart. Luckily, I hadn't installed too many of lights, so this afternoon I relocated some of them before continuing the installation further along this board. There are now just over 20 in place with a similar number to do on the next board. Next outing for the layout is Abingdon in a couple of weeks time. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GWRPhil Posted February 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2014 I kept looking at the newly installed carriage siding lights as something just didn't seem right. Turns out that The spacing was too close, so checking Longs plans a few posts back I had incorrectly set them just over 20mm apart when they should be about 32mm apart. Luckily, I hadn't installed too many of lights, so this afternoon I relocated some of them before continuing the installation further along this board. There are now just over 20 in place with a similar number to do on the next board. Next outing for the layout is Abingdon in a couple of weeks time. looking good there mate. another great addition to a great layout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 I love the detailing of this layout Ian. Those lamps look great and bring even more realism to the layout. Superb! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 17, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2014 I love the detailing of this layout Ian. Those lamps look great and bring even more realism to the layout. Superb! Thanks. They really do start to fill in some fairly bland areas. Its just a shame that you cant really see all the detail on these little 3D prints as the lamps face towards the operator and you really need a magnifier to see the lamp, wiring box etc. - its the only way I could see them to paint them!! There are also the surface mounted low level lights on the black / yellow walkway further along but I can make them out of microstrip and rod as there is not too many of them. Yesterday I also fitted one of the new Digitrax DZ126 decoders into a Colas 66. Not had chance to test the performance on these sightly narrower decoders compared to a DZ125. The Shanks 66 which had failed blowing the circuit board and decoder has now had the circuit board removed and the decoder hard wired to the motor.. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Farish LED light boards so that I can hard wire these directly to the decoder? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian b Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 An even littler decoder?! Are these generally available yet- they don't appear to be on Digitrain's website yet. Oh, and yes please- second dabs on the wiring diagram! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 17, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2014 An even littler decoder?! Are these generally available yet- they don't appear to be on Digitrain's website yet. Oh, and yes please- second dabs on the wiring diagram! I hadn't heard about these being released but when I saw them on Coastal DCC's stand I had 2 of them. They did have a few left at the time. They are narrower but still about the same depth and length as a DZ125. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloucester Road Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 That last photo above is very very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 18, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks Stephen. Further photos to follow as I install more of these lights. This morning I noticed that one was not vertical so tried to adjust it but it snapped so the remainder was removed, hole redrilled and a new one inserted. Will have to be more careful! A truck purchased second hand last year has now been sprayed with Dullcote to get rid of the high gloss. It looks much better now but does need a driver added. His along with another truck will not be permanently fixed down so that we can vary their locations each time the layout is set up. We will have to watch out for little e fingers though. It's amazing how many times the other vehicles have been touched but luckily they are pinned and glued into place. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hi Ian, It's probably been explained in a previous post, but where did you get the mesh from which you have used for the cages around the gas cylinders? Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 18, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2014 Jeremy Its from N brass. I was hoping that these signal guards (where there is overhead) would do as etched but they were too big and had to be cut down to suit. Nice etch though. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks Ian. I may need some of this for some fencing along the station platform on Par. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2014 This afternoon I have completed installing the 3D printed walkway lights. There are about 40 of them. The remainder of the 60 printed are also painted in case any get broken. More static grass can now be installed next to the walkways hooefully one evrning before next weekends outing to Abingdon. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 24, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2014 The latest task in hand is to try and build the platform seats. These are the old Network South East red ones with the tiny slits in the seats. In N scale these slits can't be seen. So far I have tried using very thin brass sheet bent to shape but with the sheet measuring only 12mm by 8mm this hasn't been achievable so far. My next option is to make them out of paper and use the paint yo make them stiffer and add the brass rod for the frame and legs later. We shall see if this method works. Last night I started making the sky lights that are on the canopy at the South end of platforms one and two. These are profiled out of styrene and each one consists of three pieces, the dome, the frame and the upstanding that the roof felt is dressed onto. The photo shows three out of the nine required temporarily placed into location prior to painting. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GWRPhil Posted February 24, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2014 theyre looking good. good luck with the platform seats Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hello Ian, I'd previously considered how to replicate the distinctive NSE seats in N for another project that never came to fruition. It depends how structurally strong you need them to be (i.e. how likely are they to get "knocked" accidentally!) but my plan was to create a wooden former then to shape strips of thin plasticard sheet over it with hot water. Fine wire or styrene rod would be similarly shaped for the outer edges, then fixed on. I did worry about the slits - I wasn't sure if they'd look horribly over scale if represented, or would look worse by being absent as the eye "expected" them to be there - and had toyed with replacing the plasticard with suitably formed fine brass etch, or alternatively with printing out self adhesive labels computer printed red with a representation of the slits that would be stuck onto the styrene seats that would have been pre-painted with red car paint from a rattle-can. Cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 24, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2014 Ben The .33 wire is very fragile so they will be inherently very delicate. Luckily where I need to put them they should be out of touch in most circumstances. I was having the same dilemma regarding the slits but after looking at these seats from a distance, you cant see the slits. I am considering doing a decal with thin black lines on them and being home one, the black will not be to heavy when put on the red seat. I will have another go this week once I get the roof lights completed. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GWRPhil Posted February 24, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hello Ian, I'd previously considered how to replicate the distinctive NSE seats in N for another project that never came to fruition. It depends how structurally strong you need them to be (i.e. how likely are they to get "knocked" accidentally!) but my plan was to create a wooden former then to shape strips of thin plasticard sheet over it with hot water. Fine wire or styrene rod would be similarly shaped for the outer edges, then fixed on. I did worry about the slits - I wasn't sure if they'd look horribly over scale if represented, or would look worse by being absent as the eye "expected" them to be there - and had toyed with replacing the plasticard with suitably formed fine brass etch, or alternatively with printing out self adhesive labels computer printed red with a representation of the slits that would be stuck onto the styrene seats that would have been pre-painted with red car paint from a rattle-can. Cheers Ben A. dunno if this might help whether it would not be finescale enough but if made out of plasticard or shaped metal once painted couldnt the surface be very lightly scored using fine scalpel blade to create the impression of the slits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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