Chrislock Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 John, I have just picked up on this thread and read it pretty well through. I think you deserve a medal for your perseverance, and it is plain to see the experience and knowledge you have gained on the way through. When the others were joking about you tackling something new - a modern kit WITH all the right parts, I think you would find it a breeze compared to this build! Great stuff, and you have given me the encouragement to get out that 2mm chassis which has been sitting on my shelf part finished for some time... this is a no excuses sort of thread!! Can't wait to see that loco completed and running. Stay with it! Regards Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 John, I have just picked up on this thread and read it pretty well through. I think you deserve a medal for your perseverance, and it is plain to see the experience and knowledge you have gained on the way through. When the others were joking about you tackling something new - a modern kit WITH all the right parts, I think you would find it a breeze compared to this build! Great stuff, and you have given me the encouragement to get out that 2mm chassis which has been sitting on my shelf part finished for some time... this is a no excuses sort of thread!! Can't wait to see that loco completed and running. Stay with it! Regards Chris Chris, Its posts like yours ( and many others ) that have kept me going, I could not have got this far without the invaluable help i`ve recieved so far from the pro`s this is a quest which i intend to complete. Many Thanks for your post, much appeciated. PS 2mm ? i`m having enough trouble with 4mm John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 John Looking good, won't be long before I send you a set of transfers and a turnout. I have let those who know better answer your last few questions but keeping an eye on the build Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 LOL, Flaws john, what flaws do you think my cyliders would be ok in the above photo as far back as they can go i cant progress without your input you know. Regards John. I think I'd go with Mike's advice - separate the cylinders (a little bit of work with a junior hacksaw right down the middle, or two cuts - not sure which would be best) and spread them apart a little; it probably only needs a mm or so of extra space, and you use the Milliput to fill the gap and hold them together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I think I'd go with Mike's advice - separate the cylinders (a little bit of work with a junior hacksaw right down the middle, or two cuts - not sure which would be best) and spread them apart a little; it probably only needs a mm or so of extra space, and you use the Milliput to fill the gap and hold them together. John The cylinders are just a push fit and screwed together, if its only a mm or so just don't push them fully home. I would take them off and once the correct positions were found just solder up with low melt solder. I guess you could glue them in place as well but I would keep the T plate the cylinders go on to in 1 piece as it is part of what holds the chassis to the body / bogie pivot, (that is unless I have got the wrong end of the stick and missunderstood the advice) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Cheers John just saw your post, been working on the little bggrs all morning, you would not believe the amount of tools i`ve used,ended up using a router on my mini drill, the result isnt bad though let me know what you think. I also filed down the slidebars to approx half width from the inside to give more clearance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 John Sorry its a bit late but I have found my K's instructions (minus the tender ones), I do have instructions for the tender from a GWR Mogul kit (the latter version you have) and an additional instruction sheet (Modifications) to cover the newre motor and other plastic parts in your kit. Happy to make a set for you if you want one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 A Triumph, after aches and pains over these cylinders I have got them in situ, what a nighmare though. I cut the piston rods to size and guess what, they are exactly the same lenth as the K`s so dont be fooled into thinking they have snapped like i did but i prefer the copper ones anyway. All running and free, time for the bogie now. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 John Great that its running, sorry to put a fly into the ointment, but the slide bars should run parallel with each other, photos are so cruel, The middle photo shows the casting bent down, may be the angle of the photo as the third photo it looks straighter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 I think its a trick of the camera John, Attached to the body it looks ok, Got to dissasemble again i`ve left the worm unatached Ho Hum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrislock Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 John, do I assume you are adding some improved knobs and handrails? The kit ones looked a bit like lengths of lead pipe...! It's not difficult to drill and fit some scale ones and thread some wire through. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Yes Chris i bought the brass hanrail knobs and nickle wire from Markits so just got to get around to pluck up the courage to tackle what i envision a difficult job, here she is with completed bogie all running fine now. ( had to take it all apart i used a small bit of superglue on the inside on the cylinders to add strenth, only managed to glue the piston rod solid thats why it would`nt go earlier ) Ho Hum. PS do you paint the brass handrail knobs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 ...The kit ones looked a bit like lengths of lead pipe...!... Chris, The 'lead pipe' is meant to represent an ejector and associated pipework. The handrail is attached to it. Nick edit to add "meant to represent", the K's part does look more like a bit of lead pipe... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Now that really is looking very much better! You do deserve a medal for getting it to this stage, so consider yourself duly decorated! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted April 10, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10, 2012 Now that really is looking very much better! You do deserve a medal for getting it to this stage, so consider yourself duly decorated! Full agreement here , well done John , tenacity and determination have won the day . So are you hooked now and going to try something else or is this the final frontier ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Now that really is looking very much better! You do deserve a medal for getting it to this stage, so consider yourself duly decorated! Thanks John for all your support. Full agreement here , well done John , tenacity and determination have won the day . So are you hooked now and going to try something else or is this the final frontier ? Thanks Mike, i had a chat with Hayfield yesterday and he told me about southeastern finecast who appently make up to date white metal kits so i think maybe one of their kits in the near future or if anyone can reccomend something similar, i`ve really enjoyed this build, have to finnish the tank and painting, my wife none to impressed with my language at times though never had so many ups and downs over something you would ( and i did ) take for granted as being quite straightforward, Far from it. I think etched kits look a bit flimsly if thats the right term, and my soldering isnt by far good enough to tackle one. Will keep you all posted. Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 SE Finecast do indeed make very nice kits; here's one of their Buckjumpers which I built a couple of years ago. It's only a rather grotty phone picture, but it will give you some idea. As you can tell, I've long had a secret love affair with little Victorian tank engines! These kits have an etched brass chassis which has to be soldered - and which has a decent amount of detail - and I promise you that with the right gearbox / motor combination they do run very nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 SE Finecast do indeed make very nice kits; here's one of their Buckjumpers which I built a couple of years ago. It's only a rather grotty phone picture, but it will give you some idea. As you can tell, I've long had a secret love affair with little Victorian tank engines! These kits have an etched brass chassis which has to be soldered - and which has a decent amount of detail - and I promise you that with the right gearbox / motor combination they do run very nicely. Cheers John, for some reason i have never liked tanks but yours is impressive whats the Loco in your avatar i like it, I`m a big engine fan TBH. was looking earlier at SE and they are not cheap, i get the impression you buy the body, chassis,wheels all separate, what about engine and gearbox though. Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Interesting t hat you mention Westward kits , in the to do pile I have a Scott Atlantic waiting for me , there is also a De Glenn in there so any photos and build details of yours would be much appreciated . DeGlehn thread here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54888-the-gwr-deglehns/ Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Cheers John, for some reason i have never liked tanks but yours is impressive whats the Loco in your avatar i like it, I`m a big engine fan TBH. was looking earlier at SE and they are not cheap, i get the impression you buy the body, chassis,wheels all separate, what about engine and gearbox though. Regards John. Motor and gearbox are really a matter of choice, though in my opinion - no doubt shared by many others on here - the best are respectively Mashima and High Level - neither of which are cheap, but then I prefer to have fewer locos that work well than a lot that make me wince whenever I run them! The old Portescap motor / gearbox combinations are still around on eBay, but expect to pay upwards of £50 each for them; very high quality, and exceptional for their day, but nowadays probably not really worth the money given the alternatives. Mind you, I still have a strategic reserve! The loco in the avatar is a Canadian Pacific Royal Hudson, complete with the golden crowns on the skirting to commemorate the work the class did on the 1939 Royal Tour of Canada. Smashing locos, they'd run all day and all night and then all the next day with trains far heavier than anything the UK could offer and could still go like the clappers - a Royal Hudson at speed with 20 heavyweight coaches up really is quite a sight! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Cheers John, for some reason i have never liked tanks but yours is impressive whats the Loco in your avatar i like it, I`m a big engine fan TBH. was looking earlier at SE and they are not cheap, i get the impression you buy the body, chassis,wheels all separate, what about engine and gearbox though. Regards John. ohn Morning (on lates again) Yes brand new and with all the parts a tender loco will set you back the best part of £150, a tank loco will not be much less, However selective buying on Ebay will reduce the cost greatly. Dearest will be the new un-touched kit, I have just brought a pannier RRP £80 I paid £38. I have wheels motor etc all from Ebay at decent prices. Middle of the road a part built kit, quite often very easy to undo whats been built and start again (if you are lucky may have wheels motor etc) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-BUILT-CORNARD-LNER-BR-CLASS-B17-Sandringham-FINISH-/150793229282?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item231bfa13e2 This one needs a RTR chassis but looks clean. Cheapest is to buy an old kit built loco, take it to bits and re build it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OO-GAUGE-LOCO-SCRATCH-KIT-BUILT-METAL-0-6-0-TENDER-LNER-1267-SPARES-/220997043774?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item337473463e This is a Wills J39 (common therefore will be cheap) designed to fit Triang Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. A dunk in Nitromores or caustic soda will remove the paint and glue (just uope its not soldered). Southeastern Finecast will sell any broken/lost parts, you could just re-use the chassis as it is, replace the wheels for Romford or Gibson. Southeastern Finecast do a chassis to fit but so do Comet at half the price, but you will need to make new fixings in the body for the Comet (not to hard). Sometimes these kits come re-wheeled, its just a case of keeping your eyes open and of course knowing what to buy Here is I think a Wills Saint http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GWR-460-Loco-Tender-Lady-Lyons-No-2903-/200742204471?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item2ebd2af437 certainly not a K's, coments as above but SEF still only do a whitemetal chassis (think the Comet Hall/County chassis will fit) but a re-wheel and decent motion set will make all the difference. On second looks may be a M&L whitemetal loco body, with a Hornby loco chassis and tender. Still just to illustrate a point Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Cheers John, I thought my problems were behind me how wrong, just to assemble the tender was hard enough but trying to fix the brakes tool boxes and an oversized plate was a pain, i had to drill and ream most of the holes, thats after rubbing it down because i had primed it, broke one of the brakes ( but i prefer how it looks TBH ) now i have to file down the sides of the plate then re prime and carry on. HO Hum, or should that be OO Hum Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 John Re text Phoenix Precision http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/precision-paints/railway-colours/colours-for-the-big-four/great-western-railway.html GWR 1928 to 45 may be better than the 45-48 This site may help to show the colours http://www.gwr.org.uk/ Show case may give you a better idea. Also show you the different lettering styles Hand painting get a decent sable brush, decent art shop is the favourite. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Well anothe spend, i bought a couple of fine sable brushes and some humbrol paints from an artist shop local to me the only concern i have is that the k`s instuctions said Brunswick green which i have bought but its Gloss , does it matter ? Thanks John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 ...its Gloss , does it matter ? No, its actually an advantage as the transfers will sit better on gloss and you'll want to varnish the loco after applying the transfers anyway, partly to protect them and partly to tone down the finish. Satin varnish can be had in aerosol form. More expense though I'm afraid! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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