Grasshopper John Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 No, its actually an advantage as the transfers will sit better on gloss and you'll want to varnish the loco after applying the transfers anyway, partly to protect them and partly to tone down the finish. Satin varnish can be had in aerosol form. More expense though I'm afraid! Great Many thanks `halfwit' still got some priming to do but at least i know im prepared the shop ass told me humbrol satin clear shouldnt be applied to gloss so i never bought any. Thanks John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 The cylinder issues may have been partly due to you having them vertical rather than angled outwards. This picture shows the outward effect well http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:6830_%22Buckenhill_Grange%22_at_Bristol_TM_1959.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Great Many thanks `halfwit' still got some priming to do but at least i know im prepared the shop ass told me humbrol satin clear shouldnt be applied to gloss so i never bought any. Thanks John. John Let the gloss paint dry at least for a few days, from what I know the Humbrol satin varnish is acrylic so should be OK. I use it over Phoenix which also are enamel paints without any issues Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 The cylinder issues may have been partly due to you having them vertical rather than angled outwards. This picture shows the outward effect well http://en.wikipedia....tol_TM_1959.jpg Aaarh, I spent all that time getting them vertical as well craig, it was a pita but got it working John Let the gloss paint dry at least for a few days, from what I know the Humbrol satin varnish is acrylic so should be OK. I use it over Phoenix which also are enamel paints without any issues Thanks John, just run out of primer so will be a few days until painting comences. Would you believe that the tender in the box i`ve been using to prime fell off its perch and like a piece of toast fell upside down so now i have grass marks all over the bloody top, sometimes you cant win. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 John Better having grass marks than dents. I have just noticed you have gone on to the 9th page. Coachman would have built and painted 2 rakes of coaches in this space !!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted April 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2012 John Better having grass marks than dents. I have just noticed you have gone on to the 9th page. Coachman would have built and painted 2 rakes of coaches in this space !!! And modified a RTR loco to pull them . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 John Better having grass marks than dents. I have just noticed you have gone on to the 9th page. Coachman would have built and painted 2 rakes of coaches in this space !!! It`s because of all the help i`ve received John and 94 are my posts on this thread. And modified a RTR loco to pull them . LOL sidecar, i pressed the like button but an error occured ? The way things are going will probably reach 10 anyway Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted April 13, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2012 It`s because of all the help i`ve received John and 94 are my posts on this thread. LOL sidecar, i pressed the like button but an error occured ? The way things are going will probably reach 10 anyway Well at least you are getting your name well known Jack . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 John I am looking at a plan I have in a GWR loco plans book I have by CJ Freezer,some say they are not 100% correct but it should be better than the K's diagram The plan is of the right hand side with the steam pipe and clearly shows that the handrail knobs are fitted to the steampipe. I have a M&L Grange, whilst the steampipe is a much better casting, their plan also shows this. I have 2 pictures and a plan in my Russells book. M&L casting Left hand side, the 5 handrail knob holes seem to be in the correct places, as is the one over the front smoke box door. Right hand side. The first hand rail knob next to the cab is wrong, none shown on the plan, all the following measurements are taken from where the cab joins the firebox, first three on the steampipe 11.5mm 42.5mm 72.5mm 114mm (not on steam pipe) Just to chear you up, 3 short handrail knobs on the steam pipe (thin Fuse wire might be better, long one on the smoke box and either long or mediun ones on the other side http://en.wikipedia....-Brooksbank.jpg nice shot of the front bends you have to make. I think heating the brass wire first softens it . No doubt someome more knowlageable will confirm both rhe details and process Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 John I am looking at a plan I have in a GWR loco plans book I have by CJ Freezer,some say they are not 100% correct but it should be better than the K's diagram The plan is of the right hand side with the steam pipe and clearly shows that the handrail knobs are fitted to the steampipe. I have a M&L Grange, whilst the steampipe is a much better casting, their plan also shows this. I have 2 pictures and a plan in my Russells book. M&L casting Left hand side, the 5 handrail knob holes seem to be in the correct places, as is the one over the front smoke box door. Right hand side. The first hand rail knob next to the cab is wrong, none shown on the plan, all the following measurements are taken from where the cab joins the firebox, first three on the steampipe 11.5mm 42.5mm 72.5mm 114mm (not on steam pipe) Just to chear you up, 3 short handrail knobs on the steam pipe (thin Fuse wire might be better, long one on the smoke box and either long or mediun ones on the other side http://en.wikipedia....-Brooksbank.jpg nice shot of the front bends you have to make. I think heating the brass wire first softens it . No doubt someome more knowlageable will confirm both rhe details and process Many thanks once again john, i cant envisage drilling a no 68 hole through the steampipe like you said someone may know a solution, thanks for that link john, oh the joys ahead . I`ve seen on a few models that there is a `Nameplate' above the center splasher, this wasnt in the kit do you buy them seperately? Regards Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 John I am looking at a plan I have in a GWR loco plans book I have by CJ Freezer,some say they are not 100% correct but it should be better than the K's diagram The plan is of the right hand side with the steam pipe and clearly shows that the handrail knobs are fitted to the steampipe. I have a M&L Grange, whilst the steampipe is a much better casting, their plan also shows this. I have 2 pictures and a plan in my Russells book. M&L casting Left hand side, the 5 handrail knob holes seem to be in the correct places, as is the one over the front smoke box door. Right hand side. The first hand rail knob next to the cab is wrong, none shown on the plan, all the following measurements are taken from where the cab joins the firebox, first three on the steampipe 11.5mm 42.5mm 72.5mm 114mm (not on steam pipe) Just to chear you up, 3 short handrail knobs on the steam pipe (thin Fuse wire might be better, long one on the smoke box and either long or mediun ones on the other side http://en.wikipedia....-Brooksbank.jpg nice shot of the front bends you have to make. I think heating the brass wire first softens it . No doubt someome more knowlageable will confirm both rhe details and process Beware. the handrail knobs are NOT attached to the injector pipe. on the real thing there are special cradle type hand hangers similar to gutter mounts on a house. On the end is a hole for the handrail to pass through. These two shots at barry illustrates this better as it has the handrail attached but the injector pipe missing. The shots are of a Hall but the boiler is basically the same standard no. 1 as a Grange. I have made my own or used split pins and bent the cup shape for the pipe to sit in. Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 How many 'cups' do you have to make Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted April 14, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 14, 2012 Firstly this build is a great demonstration of why this site is so good at encouraging members and you are making a really good job. Mike is right that the handrail is above the ejector pipe (steam pipe is a good description as steam rushes down the pipe coming out of the ejector at the left hand end and so dragging the air out of the train pipe). The injector pipe visible on the boiler is the feed delivery running up to the saftey valve area (where the clacks are) However there are a couple of points at which the ejector pipe is supported. Kind regards Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 John I said I would be corrected by someone and they will be easier to fit than handrail knobs. With regard to the next kit I have taken a photo of the Southeastern Finecast GWR 1854 pannier tank kit parts, just to show you what you can expect with newer kits Just needs wheels, motor and gears. Nicely turned brass handrail knobs etc Castings nice and crisp, sorry they are still in packs. Was going to sell the body, and use the chassis on the 1804 Saddle tank, as I have 2 panniers with cast chassis. But with the extra body details on the chassis etch I have decided to build ie, as it will make up into a more detailed loco. Will sell one of my built ones The chassis has screw spacers as well as etched ones with tabs, So can be built either screwed or soldered, however as other details need soldering, the latter is prefferable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thats a nice kit John, ( you have PM ). With regard to the mounts along the steampipe i am experimenting with this, sorry its not clear the camera wouldnt focus, i have stripped down a piece of coaxe ( aerial lead ) for the copper inner and am flatening it wil try to make a 'u' shape and glue to body, may glue the handrail as well. What do you think. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Found a good pic on flikr where the light has been kind and shows up the mounting points. I make the two mounts on the boiler side. The smokebox end can be attached to the smokebox as the pipework does through a hole and into the smokebox on the prototype. At the firebox end, the prototype has a larger mount arrangement to allow for the large casing. On the model I mount this end first by drilling a hole through the casing and inserting either wire or a split pin through both casing a boiler. Now you have a starting point. Using one of my son's school rulers, I can run a pencil line along the boiler to ensure the steam ejector pipe is level and parallel with the running plate. The two 'cup' mounts/cradles can then be positioned as appropriate. Good idea using copper cable. I use it all the time for various pipes. Offcuts of mains cable come in very handy. Makes good topfeed pipework as well. I used 45 amp mains cable for outside steam pipes on my DeGlehn. Not far to go know. I can confirm John's recommendation of the Wills Pannier. I have built the Metro tank, that is of the same upgraded style and it went together in no time at all. Good luck. Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Well my copper coax seems ok as was pliable I flattened down one end and cut off excess then turn 90deg and flattened again made a 'u' shape and cut of excess again you can see the result have left enough room for a small hole for the handrail, swine on a job putting them in situ dry but you can see how it looks err Crude, ho hum. PS Cheers once again Mike i was`nt sure how may but three did`nt look right. let me know what you think. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 it will do the job nicely. Good work Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 This is an outstanding topic and thread. Warmest thanks to everyone concerned, especially John Fla for sticking at it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted April 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 15, 2012 Or you could spend some more money and get these , http://www.cometmode...tpic.php/3/1097 , plus you get nice whistle shields too . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 This is an outstanding topic and thread. Warmest thanks to everyone concerned, especially John Fla for sticking at it. Many Thanks for climbing aboard Tren. Or you could spend some more money and get these , http://www.cometmode...tpic.php/3/1097 , plus you get nice whistle shields too . Sidecar i sent you a pm. want your opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted April 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 15, 2012 Sidecar i sent you a pm. want your opinion. Reply sent earlier . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 I thought a bit of refinment was needed so i scaled them down a bit as they looked too big on the body. here is the final result. should look a lot neater from the front just have to drill out now. dont forget these are smaller than the pic John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Reply sent earlier . Not received 'Sidecar' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Final result, although i woud`nt have them on my model ready for fitting, My eyes arnt what they were. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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