Kev's 7mm Workbench (Scorpio M2 Shunter's Truck)

[2ManySpams]

Spam's laws of kit building:

 

1. Don't assume the instructions will be correct or indeed instructive.

2. Don't assume the parts provided in the kit are correct for the prototype you're building.

3. Don't assume any of the dimensions are correct.

4. Don't rely on drawings being correct either.

5. Don't forget that the condition of preserved stock may not be representative of it's original condition.

6. Don't assume that aftermarket parts for a prototype are correct.

7. Just because you have a photo of one item of stock it does not follow that it is representative of the whole class.

8. Research can be informative and fun but there's a point when obsessiveness can take over.

9. After completing one element as a best guess, the photo you could have done with turns up.

10. For every given task there are multiple routes and ways to getting the job done, none is perfect, all have pros and cons.

11. The bit you can't find will turn up after you have made / bought a replacement.

12. What you produce may not be perfect but it's your personal bit of imperfection and you have gained much experience on the journey.

 

I think that covers the learning from my 12month introduction to building brass kits. And we do this for fun ;-p

[Norwenglish]

I think those laws need to be carved in stone somewhere...or maybe etched in brass?

[Kev_Lewis]

Spam's laws of kit building:

 

1. Don't assume the instructions will be correct or indeed instructive.

2. Don't assume the parts provided in the kit are correct for the prototype you're building.

3. Don't assume any of the dimensions are correct.

4. Don't rely on drawings being correct either.

5. Don't forget that the condition of preserved stock may not be representative of it's original condition.

6. Don't assume that aftermarket parts for a prototype are correct.

7. Just because you have a photo of one item of stock it does not follow that it is representative of the whole class.

8. Research can be informative and fun but there's a point when obsessiveness can take over.

9. After completing one element as a best guess, the photo you could have done with turns up.

10. For every given task there are multiple routes and ways to getting the job done, none is perfect, all have pros and cons.

11. The bit you can't find will turn up after you have made / bought a replacement.

12. What you produce may not be perfect but it's your personal bit of imperfection and you have gained much experience on the journey.

 

I think that covers the learning from my 12month introduction to building brass kits. And we do this for fun ;-p

 

Ah, learned much, you have young padawan.

[Kev_Lewis]

I had a couple of big spraying sessions on the BSK Saturday and today.

 

Firstly the body exterior has received it's maroon. This is actually Halfords Vauxhall burgundy red and is usually a good match of BR maroon. I think the white primer has caused it to come out a little on the light side, but it is acceptable. It has also received a coat of Halfords clear lacquer to give a nice gloss surface ready for the lining.

 

 

The underframe is now black.

 

 

As are the bogies.

 

 

I've also sprayed the seats. These are just placed in the compartments, I now need to paint the floor.

 

[Kev_Lewis]

In other news. The BG is now finished after re-assembly and fitting of couplings.

 

[steve fay]

You have done a lovely Job Kev, wrong time of year for me I'm afraid but I'd have that BG no problem, I don't think you'll have any problem selling them.

[Kev_Lewis]

Thanks Steve.

 

They should go a long way towards some nice Colletts.

[Kev_Lewis]

Well, I've decided to put the BSK away until I pluck up the courage to do the lining.

 

So, next job is to clear the workbench of the nearly finished rolling stock that has built up. Here they are:

 

 

A pair of Connoisseur Macaws, 

Connoisseur 16ton Toad,

Parkside Mica Tevan,

Scorpio Siphon C and,

Metal Models Siphon F.

 

There's also a Connoisseur Loriot M knocking about somewhere. 

 

All just require transfers, couplings, and a little bit of tidying up.

[Guest Isambarduk]

"All just require transfers, couplings, and a little bit of tidying up."

Very nice but beware the "just" - there's quite a bit of exacting work involved there :-) David

[Kev_Lewis]

Crikey, it's been a while. I'd better post something.

 

Well, I have been spending a lot of time getting the layout up and running, so I've not been at the workbench much. I have built a couple of kits though.

 

Over xmas I built this Meteor Models crane and match truck. I shortened the back of the crane because I didn't like the big over hang. It's only a generic design so I think I can get away with it. I also replaced the buffers because I didn't fancy drilling out the solid whitemetal castings.

 

 

 

Then in between work on the layout I've managed to built my xmas present from my parents; a Parkside GWR N13 Horsebox. I get the impression with this kit that they are really pushing the limit of what can be moulded in plastic. There are so many fiddly bits. Not sure how well the footsteps and lamp brackets will stand up to handling. Oddly, the only part I've broken was one of the whitemetal steam heat pipes. So I replaced both with brass ones from the spares box.

 

 

Both are now in the queue for painting which won't happen until the weather improves considerably.

 

Next on the bench, inbetween playing with testing the layout, will be a D&S GWR N11 Horsebox.

[Kev_Lewis]

Finally, I've gotten around to nearly finishing the Meteor Models crane and match truck. It's been given a coat of matt black and the teeth of the gears picked out with oily steel. The supplied copper coated chain was dunked in Gun Blue, lightly polished, and has taken on a nice slightly rusty look.

 

 

I replaced the supplied scribed thin ply for the planks with cut down coffee stirrers. These were epoxied in place, and given a couple of coats of Light Oak Colron wood dye, before being attacked with some weathering powders.

 

 

 

I couldn't posing it on the layout. Just a bit more general weathering and some retaining ropes, and it's finished.

 

[Rob Pulham]

The crane looks the business Kev,

 

My Telford bargain was one of these cranes with 2 match wagons and wheels for £50. Whoever had it for sale must have had similar thought to you on the buffers because there seem to be enough for 5 wagons...... not that I am complaining of course, once I had looked in the box to see what it was no way was I putting it back.

[Kev_Lewis]

Thanks Rob,

 

I shortened the rear, where the balance weight box is, to reduce the over hang on mine. But with two of them you won't have to.

 

The buffers in the kit are pretty poor. There was no way I was going to attempt to drill out the solid whitemetal bodies.

 

I will look forward to seeing your take on the kit.

[Kev_Lewis]

This evening I've also finally finished the pesky Parkside GWR horsebox. This has got to be one of the most difficult of their kits by far, there are just so many fiddly bits.

 

 

That's now all of the plastic kits off the workbench, so the plan for the winter us to alternate between some of the brass kits I have lurking around and scratch building some of the buildings for Inglebourne.

[mswjr]

Kev,nice work mate,Im glad someone else found this horsebox kit pesky,so did i,Ive built loads of wagon kits before,this one i found very pesky as you say,then when i was drying the black paint on the underframe (with her hairdrier ) i melted the steps,so i fabricated some more,Then i could not live with myself ,so i got another one,and found that just as hard,so im not having a rake of these unless they are brass,Regards Garry

[Kev_Lewis]

Thanks Garry, I'm glad it's not just me who found the horsebox difficult. What's amazed me is that I've not broken any of the ridiculously fragile footsteps. I'm usually such a clumsy sod! I'd quite happily pay a bit more for brass castings like Slaters supply in some of their kits for similar components.

 

My next project will be a D&S Models N11 horsebox, which thankfully is brass. Just one problem, I cleaned up and bent an the etches ready for assembly back in February. So no they're all tarnished again and I've just spent the evening cleaning them up again. D'oh!

[Guest Isambarduk]

"So now they're all tarnished again and I've just spent the evening cleaning them up again"

 

Tip: Just spray them with Viakal, leave for a few minutes and then rinse in cold water.  That wouldn't take all evening ... and you could gain brownie points by giving the sink/wash hand basin a quick doing over whilst your at it :-)

 

David

 

 

 

[3 link]

"So now they're all tarnished again and I've just spent the evening cleaning them up again"

 

Tip: Just spray them with Viakal, leave for a few minutes and then rinse in cold water.  That wouldn't take all evening ... and you could gain brownie points by giving the sink/wash hand basin a quick doing over whilst your at it :-)

 

David

 

 

 

 

 

And it smells quite nice .

 

Martyn.

[Kev_Lewis]

D&S Horse Box Part 1.

 

So on with the brass horsebox. All the detail added to the first side.

 

[Craigw]

D&S Horse Box Part 1.

 

So on with the brass horsebox. All the detail added to the first side.

 

20151022_224439.jpg

 

Kev,

 

Can I make a suggestion? (I will anyway!)

 

The flat section of ironwork at the bottom of the drop doorway is in fact a hinge and is half round. To me, it sticks out like the dogs proverbials. I am currently building a D&S N8 (in 4mm scale) and have soldered a section of half round brass section (From Eileens) across there and I think it looks much better.

 

I can post a photo of the N8 if you wish to see what I mean - or have a look at a photo of a real N11.

 

Regards,

 

Craig W

[Kev_Lewis]

Well spotted Craig, I hadn't noticed!

 

I've actually got a half decent photo of a N11, so I will consult that when I get back to the workbench tonight.

 

Many thanks

[Kenton]

 

the pesky Parkside GWR horsebox. This has got to be one of the most difficult of their kits by far, there are just so many fiddly bits.

Anything in particular other than the steps and those hand rails?

 

 

I'd quite happily pay a bit more for brass castings like Slaters supply in some of their kits for similar components.

I'd agree but that is the main (only) advantage of the Slaters kits so perhaps price does matter to too many modellers?

 

 

Just spray them with Viakal, leave for a few minutes and then rinse in cold water.

Few minutes yes but NOT overnight - made that mistake with a particularly tarnished etch and came back to find it black. It also needs very thorough washing as the spray seems to contain lots of additives that get in the way of paint spraying.

[Kev_Lewis]

Kenton,

The steps are particularly fragile and I'm amazed I've not broken any of them. Further issues I've numbered on a photo and will list below. 

 

 

1. Roof vents moulded in two pieces. I can't work out why and the top thin, round parts are poorly moulded,

2. & 3. End lamp brackets are very vulnerable and likely to get broken,

4. Whitemetal steam heating pipes were very weak. I broke one after fitting, so I changed them for brass replacements,

5. Plastic door handles under sized and poorly moulded. Replaced with brass.

6. These round parts on the bottom of the J hangers are moulded separately. I can't work out why, on other kits they're all part of the moulding. I lost one during construction and had to make a replacement.

 

Which brings me on to something else. Despite there being over 50 parts smaller than a pea in the kit, there are no spares.

 

Hope this helps.

[Kenton]

But otherwise an interesting test of the builder and still looks like a lovely model fit for use display.

 

(NB. I'm not sure the supplier can be blamed for providing detail (small) parts, or for the builder losing them)

But the point about spares, especially given the space available on most sprues/etches there never seems to be enough consideration on that.

[Kev_Lewis]

(NB. I'm not sure the supplier can be blamed for providing detail (small) parts, or for the builder losing them)

But the point about spares, especially given the space available on most sprues/etches there never seems to be enough consideration on that.

 

 

Indeed.

However, it would make things a heck of a lot easier if smaller parts were made as parts of larger mouldings (points 1 and 6 above), and made from more suitable materials (points 2, 3, 5, and the footsteps).