Kev_Lewis Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 As I have next week off and the weather may actually be decent, I plan to try and get as many of my current projects painted as possible. So tonight I added something else to the paint queue, Here I have a Scorpio GWR F2 Steamroller wagon, with Duncan Models Aveling and Porter Roller and water cart. The wagon has been assembled using my usual soldering methods. But I have to admit that I wasn't confident enough to take the 25watt soldering iron to all that whitemetal, so the roller and cart have both been built using Roket cyano. The roof and wheels of the roller haven't been glued on yet to make it easier to paint in five parts. And the chimney has since been straightened. I wasn't planning keeping this, but now it looks like it'll be staying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I do like that steam roller wagon. I may be tempted myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Evening all, The BG and Siphon G have gone back in their box until I can get outside to do some painting. So over the last couple of nights I've cracked on and finished a couple of wagons, which will now join the painting queue. I really need to get the spray booth finished. Here we have a JLTRT BR Fruit Van and a Slaters Midland Long Cattle Wagon. DSCF1809.JPG The fruit van only arrived in the post two weeks ago. I wasn't something I was planning to purchase quite yet, but as they are on offer I though I might as well take advantage. I also have a Banana Van with clasp brakes to do. This was a joy to build. I used some nice turned wheels that I purchased from Peartree Engineering (http://www.modelrailwayparts.com/) at the Bristol Show. A little tweaking of the W irons was required because the ends of the axles are slightly different to Slaters wheels, but at £1.80 per pair of ales cheaper it was definitely worth it. The issue with the buffers being too close together was easily fixed by a little work with the Dremel. Overall while not perfect this is still a very nice kit. The resin body being very impressive. The cattle wagon I picked up last year. The instructions give a vauge reference to some of these being vacuum braked, so I've made the necessary modifications. Vacuum pipes, brake cylinder and tie bars. Like a lot of the Slaters 7mm kits, this has been about for a while. But it was easy to build. The only change I made was to use brass wire for the bars instead of the supplied plastic rod. No chance of me breaking them now. I did the cattle wagon last year too. It is very basic compared to modern equivalents, but no worse for that. Funnily enough, I did the same with the bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Looking good Kev, good luck with the painting, keep the pics coming. George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I did the cattle wagon last year too. It is very basic compared to modern equivalents, but no worse for that. Funnily enough, I did the same with the bars. I only have to look at plastic rod and it snaps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I do like that steam roller wagon. I may be tempted myself. Looking good Kev, good luck with the painting, keep the pics coming. George. Thanks gents. My research suggests at the roller should be black and GWR brown. Plus in the period I model it will certainly have been absolutely filthy, so well weathered too. I'll post some more photo's during and after painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi Kev, That steam roller and the F2 wagon is and absolutely cracking bit of kit - a real signature sort of item for a goods train! The CROCODILES with the covered over wheels look really fascinating, almost as if they have the side skirts on for high speed running like an A4! When I do Little Didcot's CROCODILE F, I think I might put a loco boiler on it - just like the real thing! All the best, Castle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 That looks superb Kev, and what an unusual prototype. He says extremely tempted by one...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Thanks Castle and Rob, The F2 with it's skirted side is a bit different from the typical GWR Crocodiles. I can't imagine that these ever ran at high speeds though, Castle. Rob, I reckon I shoild be on commission. Peter (N15Class) is tempted too. I wish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 My research suggests at the roller should be black and GWR brown. Plus in the period I model it will certainly have been absolutely filthy, so well weathered too. Kev - Ted Kanas deliberated about the livery with his model, and went for a heavily-weathered black: http://gwr.org.uk/gallery3/kanas101.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Kev - Ted Kanas deliberated about the livery with his model, and went for a heavily-weathered black: http://gwr.org.uk/gallery3/kanas101.jpg I was going on an article written by Mikkel of this parish. "Most trailers and flat wagons had all-over brown sides throughout, as were steam rollers and steam tractors." Half way down the page here: http://www.gwr.org.uk/noroad1.html In GWR Wagons Before 1948 Volume 1, plate 22 shows roughly what I'm trying to create. The photo being dated 1958 is spot on for my period. Although it's a black and white photo, the roller is considerable lighter than the black wagon. Also, supported by the photo referenced above, surely the wagon would have been black with white lettering, in GWR and BR days, as they belonged to the Engineering Department. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 In GWR Wagons Before 1948 Volume 1, plate 22 shows roughly what I'm trying to create. The photo being dated 1958 is spot on for my period. Although it's a black and white photo, the roller is considerable lighter than the black wagon. I haven't seen that picture, but I think there is one in one of the Russell books, from which it is not possible to tell what colour either the wagon or its load is. Also, supported by the photo referenced above, surely the wagon would have been black with white lettering, in GWR and BR days, as they belonged to the Engineering Department. Yes, I would certainly agree with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ianmaccormac Posted February 3, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2013 Put securing chains pointing forward and aft on your model please! It looks like the painted one could slide backwards easily! Cheers Ian in Blackpool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Evening all, With the weather being too cold and windy to do any painting outdoors and my spray booth still not up and running, I've actually managed to get something somewhere near finished. Today I've put all the details on the ends of the Ian Kirk Siphon G. Buffers are from Invertrain, corridor connectors from Just Like The Real Thing, brake and steam heating pipes are Slaters castings from the spares box, with silicon tubing instead of the usual springs, and couplings from Tower Models. Just transfers (which I need to purchase) and weathering to go. Tomorrow I'll put up some photo's of something very, very different that I've been working on and I'm quite keen to get painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Very Nice Kev, I am going to have to look at the Kirk offerings a bit closer. I built a few of his 4mm coaches in the past but I haven't really looked at the 7mm stuff and there seem to have been some nice builds lateley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Very Nice Kev, I am going to have to look at the Kirk offerings a bit closer. I built a few of his 4mm coaches in the past but I haven't really looked at the 7mm stuff and there seem to have been some nice builds lateley. Thanks Rob. The Kirk 7mm kits provide an excellent foundation for you to add all the extra details to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I hinted yesterday that I'd been working on something different. Well, rather that clog up this thread, I've decided to start a new thread in the Scenery, Structures & Transport section. If anybody happens to be interested progress on buildings for my future layout can be found here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68048-buildings-for-my-un-named-7mm-layout/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Last week I suggested to David Siddall that I would post photo's of my build of my Conniosseur Models GWR Macaw F. Well, here goes. I hope this is helpful David! First we have the etched parts. I've given the etch a rub over with a medium grit Garyflex block just to polish it up a bit. Next is the castings and other bits. Jim very kindly includes lots of spares. First job is to push out all the rivets, not many to do on this kit. I like to do this job before removing anything from the etch. Wagon body, sole bars and buffer beams removed from the etch. All the parts ready to begin assembly. The solebars and buffer beams were folded up in the Hold and Fold. I've formed to shape the shackles (a fiddly job) and threaded them on to a peice of wire for safe keeping. There are lots of spares on the etch incase you loose any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 I was hoping to post some more progress last night but I was hampered by the forum problems. So here we go. The fiddliest part of this kit is the shackles. I'd like them to be free to move, which will involve some careful soldering. To help I chemically blackened (browned!) the brackets. An extreme close up of one of the successful shackles. The first solebar done. Just to prove that they're not all solid! The second sole bar completed. I've also added the spring stops too. I've ended up with six out of the ten shackles moving, not a bad result. Coupling plates added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Hi Kev, I do enjoy building Jim's kits they might not be the most detailed but there is never much fettling to do. I have built the Macaw C and a couple of the A's and I will be interested to see how you get on as the Macaw F will be next on my work bench, well when I have a work bench that is as SWMBO wanted the spare room back now that I have a layout room. ATB, Martyn. P.S. You have the same tweezers as me , good aren't they . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Neat work Rob, looking forward to seeing the finished item! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Hi Kev, I do enjoy building Jim's kits they might not be the most detailed but there is never much fettling to do. I have built the Macaw C and a couple of the A's and I will be interested to see how you get on as the Macaw F will be next on my work bench, well when I have a work bench that is as SWMBO wanted the spare room back now that I have a layout room. ATB, Martyn. P.S. You have the same tweezers as me , good aren't they . Jim's kits are always very good. I think I've built six or seven kits from his range. I can't imagine that you'll have any problems with this kit. They are very good tweezers. Infact I have two pairs, the straight ones which you saw above and the angled ones, which I find useful for getting into awkward places. I don't drop small bits as often I as I used too with them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 All looking very professional Kev, I'll be following keenly :-) Do you reckon it could be done without the 'Hold 'n' Fold and what type of solder do you use? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 All looking very professional Kev, I'll be following keenly :-) Do you reckon it could be without the 'Hold 'n' Fold and what type of solder do you use? David Thanks for your kind words David. I found the bends for the solebars tricky even with the Hold 'n' Fold. You probably could do them with smooth jawed pliers, but it would be difficult to get a consistant bend along the whole length. For soldering brass and nickel silver I use Carrs 183 degree solder (with Carrs Green flux). It comes on nice big rolls and it reasonably priced. Any soldering involving whitemetal I use Carrs 100 degree solder (with Carrs Yellow flux). The 100 degree solder flows much better than the 70 degree solder usually used for whitemetal. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 More of the Macaw build. I folded up the main body when I did the solebars and buffer beams. To fold this up I used the Hold 'n' Fold and my home made bending bars. I sweated the four corner strapping plated in to place and have tacked the buffer beams into posistion. The solebars were tacked on next. Everything soldered up making sure al is square as I go. Right way up. Now off for a good wash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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