Kev_Lewis Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 The fruit Ds look lovely Kev, I must get one, I picked one up for my dad a few years back at Telford. I'd rather build the JLTRT with a little modifying as plastic kits don't bother me, I don't have the skills to assemble brass kits. Thanks Steve. Apart from the buffer spacing it's a great kit to build. I do have a bit of a thing for GWR brown stock. There's a Scorpio Siphon C kit under the tree Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Fruit D Part 6. A bit too much guitar playing this evening, but I have managed to fit all the solebar detail to one side of one wagon. First the five solebar brackets. Then I drilled out all the locating holes for the steps to 1.4mm and fitted the brake lever guide and small steps. And next the large steps and brake lever. A view with the body on. Once I add all the solebar details to the other side of this kit and both sides of the other one, they'll be waiting for a couple of breaks in the weather to allow painting. After which the buffer heads can be fitted and the vacuum and steam heat pipes. The pipes are supplied in whitemetal, which I'll probably break! So I'll most likely get some brass ones fro Laure Grifiin at the Bristol shownext month. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Thanks Paul. Go on, you know you want one! I've sent Laurie at JLTRT an email tonight, so we shall see what he says. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 There's a Scorpio Siphon C kit under the tree Ah! Something really solid for us to look forward to you opening Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Well, I had a very quick response from Laurie at JLTRT and can report that they are fully aware of the issue with the buffer spacing. He said that they plan to look into it when the moulds need replacing. Not sure how long that will be though. I also sent him some of the photo's I posted a few days ago of the modifications I made to get the buffers correct, with permission to use them as required. They may be useful to future purchasers of the kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Hi Kev,Ive worked in the plastics industry repairing mould tools,the tools ran 24hours a day 6 days a week knocking out car switchs,They needed servicing and small repairs,but the cavitys that made the mould (the wagon body) would last for ten years or more,I would say someone made a boo boo,and now its too late to change,but they should have noticed it on samples,They will not be in a hurry a plastic mold tool will be about £50.000 or more.For someone who advertises there products as the best on the market that is not good,they should at least tell the customer buying the kit,or even supply a jig in the kit to put the error right, that would not cost much,I also do not think their tenders should be sold seperate either but thats another story.nice work by the way. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 they are fully aware of the issue with the buffer spacing. He said that they plan to look into it when the moulds need replacing. Not sure how long that will be though.Good to have the acknowledgement of a reply but frankly that is equivalent to saying "Never, and get lost! We will ignore it." My view is that the kit is not fit for purpose until and at least they stick a BIG label on the box warning potential purchasers of the fault and the extent of the scratchbuilding required to remedy the fault. They charge, IMO over charge, enough for their kits that this sort of error is completely unacceptable. If it was simply a case of re-drilling the spaced holes then it is something they should be able to set up a simple jig in-house and perform quickly and accurately for customers. It would not take them long to do even going to the extent of filling the old holes. But as you have demonstrated there is more to this. The potential for the customer to damage beyond repair the underframe during gouging out the frame is significant. Are they going to supply new underframes if this happens? I doubt. Besides that gouging out destroys the otherwise good appearance and cannot be covered up. My own view is that this design error should never have happened and therefore should never have been released. It is a lesson, expensive one maybe, they should have learned on the first occasion and before propagating it into other kits. It is a pity as otherwise the kit appears to be very crisply produced and otherwise accurate? of the prototype. Which makes it even worse and if I were them I'd be seriously considering withdrawal of the affected kits and the offer of recall of those kits sold. Protecting the high reputation of the other kits should be high on their agenda. Simply shrugging off the problem is unacceptable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Fruit D Part 7. Well, issues aside, both kits are now ready for painting. The weather is looking awful for the weekend so I may try to get in the garage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 Fruit D Part 8. Today I actually succeeded in getting a couple of coats of Halfords primer on the Fruit Ds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Fruit D Part 9. Today I have been playing chicken with the Weather Gods. Late this morning I easily succeeded in spraying the chassis Halfords matt black. After lunch the sun was still out so I proceeded to give the bodies a few coats of Railmatch GWR brown. Just as I finished the second coat two hailstones landed on the piece of plywood I put on top of the wheelie bins for spraying models. I grabbed the ply, bodies and all, and nipped into the garage. Plonking what I was carrying on top of Mum's car. There then followed about 15 minutes of very heavy hail complete with thunder and lightening! Once it eased I legged it into the house and was able to complete the third and final coat about 45 minutes later. I would have ideally liked to have given then a fourth thin coat but the can was just about empty and it was starting to get dark. Coverage is still very good though. Next, painting the roof and buffer beams. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Looking good. I guess you are using Railmatch cans? Hi Paul, Yes, prefer to stick to rattle cans. The Railmatch ones have been getting more and more expensive, plus postage has gone through the roof, so I'm using the closest match from Halfords quite a lot. I'll try some Rover Russet Brown for future brown stock. In the new year I'm going to investigate to possibility of getting some GWR grey etch primer in a can, could be two birds with one stone. I do have an airbrush, but I've only ever used it for weathering and that can be a bit hit or miss. Hence my reluctance to use it for proper painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Hard to go past Tamiya for the GWR freight grey. The finish is always excellent. Ts48 gunship is the code.Tamiya 100ml TS-48 Gunship Grey # 85048 Our Ref: TAM85048 RRP: £5.99 Our Price: £5.39 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Fruit D Part 10. After a bit of pondering over whether or not the ends should be black, I decided to leave them brown and I have now completed painting. The larger foot steps would be bare wood, so I've painted Humbrol #29 bare earth. I find it looks pretty good for old/dirty wood, especially once weathered. Apologies for yet another poor photo. At some point I'll remember to take a photo of these in natural light. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Fruit D Part 11. Buffers and couplings are now fitted to both wagons. The buffers were simple enough, but the couplings....... well. They are supplied in nice lost wax cast nickel silver, the problem being one or two of the holes were mere indents, which took a fair bit of drilling out. Nearly binned them twice but persevered and they do look very good. Both are sprung and have been chemically blackened. I even managed to get a decent photo. Next problem, the HMRS sheet only has enough transfers for one Fruit D, so that's another item on the shopping list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2014 Very nice Kev.I do like brown vehicles and they suit the shirtbutton logo very nicely.You weren't tempted to do the gas pipe runs on the roof then like the bloaters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Very nice Kev.I do like brown vehicles and they suit the shirtbutton logo very nicely.You weren't tempted to do the gas pipe runs on the roof then like the bloaters. Thanks Rob, Err, well there lies a problem, the kit only includes parts for the electrically lighted version (battery box and dynamo). And I'm currently unable to find any details of the Lots built. I have a feeling that one of the last GWR Lots may have had electric lighting. I hope! I did do the gas pipe runs on my Siphon G. That'll be getting a repaint to GWR brown in the summer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Hi Kev. If you let me know what transfers you require I'll see what I can do for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Thanks Rob, Err, well there lies a problem, the kit only includes parts for the electrically lighted version (battery box and dynamo). And I'm currently unable to find any details of the Lots built. I have a feeling that one of the last GWR Lots may have had electric lighting. I hope! I did do the gas pipe runs on my Siphon G. That'll be getting a repaint to GWR brown in the summer. Hi Kev. For the 2 models you have built they will have to be as Dia. Y11 built in 1939. The earlier ones were built in 1911 to Dia Y3, these have cross bracing on the both ends and no vent bonnets.smaller tapered buffers and several other differences. There is a photo of no.2885 on page 453 of the new GWR Goods Wagons book, this is a 1939 build to Y11. There is also an outline drawing on the following page 454. I have know found another photo of 2885 in GW Coaches Appendix Vol.2 fig. 605. as seen in 1941, this picture is a full A4 size and you can see the gas pipe and gauge on the solebar. Dia. Y11 details as follows Built 1939-40, 10tons, 11-8 tare, Fruit D, Carriage Lot 1649, 2867-2916 (50) There were also two batches of 20 built by BR under Passenger Lots 1755 in 1951 & 1765 in 1952. These were given vacant running numbers in the GWR range 2265-2400, if you need any of the running numbers let me know. There are some of my photos of Fruit C's & D's in the Gallery section on the Western Thunder Forum Site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Hi Kev. If you let me know what transfers you require I'll see what I can do for you. Kev. I have a spare half of a HMRS GWR wagons sheet, all the yellow & red lettering. So PM me your details and I'll post it to you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2014 If these were built in 1939/40, am I right in saying they would have never received gas piping then.Just electric lighting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 If these were built in 1939/40, am I right in saying they would have never received gas piping then.Just electric lighting. No, the 1939/40 batch would have had gas lighting. My models are incorrect. Despite being marketed by JLTRT as being GWR/BR the kit only builds the BR version. I was sure I'd read somewhere that there were further batches built after 1940 by the GWR, but Dave's excellent information above has proved my belief to be wrong. I wish I'd kept the instructions from the WEP Fruit D I built, as these contained very comprehensive prototype information. The two wagons will be staying as they are. In the end it's only a couple of underfame details that are wrong. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Kev. I have a spare half of a HMRS GWR wagons sheet, all the yellow & red lettering. So PM me your details and I'll post it to you. Very kind of you, Dave. PM sent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 And now for something a little less problematic..... As I had a nice early finish at work today, I popped into my local Halfords and picked up a can of Rover Russet Brown. A little while ago I was sent a list of colour matches for Halfords paints to railway colours by mozzer models of this parish. So I thought I'd give the Rover brown a go as I've run out of Railmatch. The weather being surprisingly good today, I got home and masked up my maroon Siphon G. The transfers were easily removed with the nasty glass fibre pen. And now it's brown, with black ends, which look good to me and may possibly be correct. Certainly looking at preserved vehicles those in later livery have been given black ends. The Rover Brown is a bit lighter than the Railmatch equivalent, but it looks good to me. Once the transfers are on I'll give it a waft of Hunbrol acrylic matt varnish to knock off the semi gloss finish. Funnily when in Halfords I said to the teenager on the till that I didn't know which was less embarrassing, buying paint for a brown Rover or the truth being that it's for my model trains. The cheeky little ###### said owning a Rover! Although he did concede that russet brown is a pretty awful colour for a car. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 And now for something a little less problematic..... As I had a nice early finish at work today, I popped into my local Halfords and picked up a can of Rover Russet Brown. A little while ago I was sent a list of colour matches for Halfords paints to railway colours by mozzer models of this parish. So I thought I'd give the Rover brown a go as I've run out of Railmatch. The weather being surprisingly good today, I got home and masked up my maroon Siphon G. The transfers were easily removed with the nasty glass fibre pen. And now it's brown, with black ends, which look good to me and may possibly be correct. Certainly looking at preserved vehicles those in later livery have been given black ends. DSCF2753a.jpg The Rover Brown is a bit lighter than the Railmatch equivalent, but it looks good to me. Once the transfers are on I'll give it a waft of Hunbrol acrylic matt varnish to knock off the semi gloss finish. Funnily when in Halfords I said to the teenager on the till that I didn't know which was less embarrassing, buying paint for a brown Rover or the truth being that it's for my model trains. The cheeky little ###### said owning a Rover! Although he did concede that russet brown is a pretty awful colour for a car. Just be thankful no railway colour you need matches Austin Allegro "Lime Flower" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 In the end it's only a couple of underfame details that are wrong. ... and the buffer spacing and ... oh well what should we expect from a "premium" kit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.