'CHARD Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I scaled over width from an end-on cess shot of Sandholm/ Hermitage in one of the standard works, probably Siviter from memory. I was surprised how relatively narrow the NB made the deck, with barely a walking route worthy of the name alongside the ballast shoulder. I judged the width of mine from an approximation of this, as there are no equivalent end-on shots at track level of Stobs, at least not that I have seen. I'll measure when I am in the garage later, just out of interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2012 I scaled over width from an end-on cess shot of Sandholm/ Hermitage in one of the standard works, probably Siviter from memory. I was surprised how relatively narrow the NB made the deck, with barely a walking route worthy of the name alongside the ballast shoulder. I judged the width of mine from an approximation of this, as there are no equivalent end-on shots at track level of Stobs, at least not that I have seen. I'll measure when I am in the garage later, just out of interest. It will be interesting to get your dimensions. Don't get me wrong - I'm more than happy with the structure I've built. As long as it looks half-decent and is functional, that's enough for me! Jeff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 OK folks, here's another of my plans with a redirected river crossing from left-to-right and out through another viaduct. Comments? Over-the-top? Silly? Jeff I like the viaduct. My concern with running the river from one end to the other would be that it may destroy the illusion of distance travelled by the train and may look a little "toy train" rather than real location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2012 I like the viaduct. My concern with running the river from one end to the other would be that it may destroy the illusion of distance travelled by the train and may look a little "toy train" rather than real location. Thanks Paul. Good points there. I'm just looking for ideas at the moment and appreciate what you've said. To be honest, I'd like to have a longer river, but it does restrict the space I have to construct the hillside. So it may not be viable practically and the last thing I want to do is "toy train" the layout. Cheers, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Just as a thought, loose the river on one side and make a canal for the other viduct, I see a small pub below the viaduct, with a lane leading to it and a car park and a couple of narrow boats moored up for the night. Just an idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2012 Just as a thought, loose the river on one side and make a canal for the other viduct, I see a small pub below the viaduct, with a lane leading to it and a car park and a couple of narrow boats moored up for the night. Just an idea That's not a bad idea Andy as it provides detail at several levels: top of viaduct, road/path and canal level, with the opportunity for cameo scenes. There is about 3 feet to work with in the corner, so plenty of space around the proposed viaduct. Good stuff! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2012 Update on progress. Rear fascia drawn out on 3mm MDF. Will start cutting it out tomorrow evening. If I feel inspired I may get the whole thing finished. Then it's a case of fitting inclined walls between the front and back walls - now that could take a while... Jeff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2012 Rear fascia cut out and temporarily attached (as is the front one) to gauge correct positioning. Photos enclosed... Jeff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2012 Here's a more oblique angle view... The mdf is only fixed for positioning at the mo - I will have to fine-tune that and rub it down - especially round the arch curves (they've only had a first cut, so far). Stanley knives are extremely useful!! Jeff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 11, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2012 Time to start rubbing down the fascias, especially around the arches. Then the interior of the piers. I was going to try and be clever with more woodwork here, but I've decided to follow the KISS principle and go for simplicity. I'm going to fill the spaces with polyfilla. This will guarantee a very smooth join between the fascias - which is so important when it comes to sticking-on the plasticard. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 11, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2012 Time to start rubbing down the fascias, especially around the arches. Then the interior of the piers. I was going to try and be clever with more woodwork here, but I've decided to follow the KISS principle and go for simplicity. I'm going to fill the spaces with polyfilla. This will guarantee a very smooth join between the fascias - which is so important when it comes to sticking-on the plasticard. Jeff I'm sure weight wouldn't be a problem with the sturdiness of your layout's main framework Jeff but would foamboard be an alternative for at least part of the infilling of the piers - otherwise you're going to use quite a lot of Polyfilla I suspect and that will add a lot of weight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 11, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2012 I'm sure weight wouldn't be a problem with the sturdiness of your layout's main framework Jeff but would foamboard be an alternative for at least part of the infilling of the piers - otherwise you're going to use quite a lot of Polyfilla I suspect and that will add a lot of weight. Mike, you are quite right. I'm going to fit some plywood and mdf off-cuts (polite word for rubbish) into the spaces before I add the filler. Weight shouldn't be a problem, but the easier the damn thing is to move around, the better! Ironically, having fitted all that foamboard insulation into my walls, I haven't got a single piece left! Cheers, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 11, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2012 Change of plans... In consultation with my modelling guru (aka Schubert), I'm reminded (how could I forget - I've used tons of the stuff over the years!!?) that mdf is good at soaking up moisture and might swell in proximity to wet filler. So I'm going for a lighter card/mdf framework - I'll try the idea and see how it works. New to me - no doubt some of you old hands will be shaking your head and thinking "when is he going to get it right?" Photos will eventually follow - even if what I do is disastrous! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 11, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2012 Surely things wouldn't be so bad if you first seal the mdf with (neat) pva on every exposed edge and face and in all the cracks (if there are any) between the separate pieces. (And no, I don't worry about using liberal quantities of pva as I buy it in 5 litre cans for use in things like concrete ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 12, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 12, 2012 Surely things wouldn't be so bad if you first seal the mdf with (neat) pva on every exposed edge and face and in all the cracks (if there are any) between the separate pieces. (And no, I don't worry about using liberal quantities of pva as I buy it in 5 litre cans for use in things like concrete ) Thanks for the advice. I have already coated the mdf in pva on the back of the front fascia and may concoct a ply barrier to avoid direct contact. I will try it behind one arch and see what happens! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 13, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2012 Interior 12mm ply barrier fitted inside arches and sealed with COPIOUS amounts of PVA. Mike, you'd be proud of me. When the whole thing is completed I'll take some pics. I KNOW some people are aware of these things, but for those who want to see each step - I'm happy to oblige! Other than that, nothing exciting (Andy - I AM considering your canal suggestion). Jeff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2012 A few pics of ply fittings into arch area. Filler being added now - more (exciting) later. Jeff 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2012 Interior of pier pillars now filled with filler. No ingress into the mdf - pleasing, given the amount of PVA I used to seal it. The viaduct is getting heavy, but I can still move it around - just!! Bit of a break now, then I'll think how I'm going to set-up to fill the arch sections... Jeff 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 14, 2012 then I'll think how I'm going to set-up to fill the arch sections... Jeff Invert the whole thing perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2012 Hi Mike, I've had a look at the arch sections and how to "do" them. It's not feasible to fill them with filler - well, it is, but it would take a hell of a lot of filler and the viaduct is heavy enough as it is. So I've cut some card formers that fit around the arch and I'll then overfit the card with plasticard. The card former is for support. I've just cut a piece to the calculated length and width and it fitted perfectly - beginners' luck? Will fix the card arches on tomorrow. Photos, as usual. Plasticard to follow later. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2012 Well, I couldn't resist. Here is how the card fits into the pier structure... Jeff 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Wow! I go on holiday for a week, come back and you've built a viaduct! Very impressive stuff. I particularly like the thick plywood base piece to space all the piers out correctly, I'd never have thought of that. I would also never have thought to use filler in the piers, but that will automatically give you nice smooth edges. By using sandpaper wrapped round a piece of wood which straddles both sides of the pier, you should be able to get it dead flat too. Excellent stuff! Cheers, Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 15, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2012 Thanks Will. It's been great fun - a few problems to solve, making it even more enjoyable!! The filler seems to have worked well, but it does add a certain "solidity" to the structure (should I say "weight"?). I'm fitting card arch formers today, evening-up the filler and in a couple of days, when the filler is bone-dry, I'll sand it down. I think I'll then move on to the smaller branch viaduct. When that's built I can then do the plasticard bit - probably with Slaters 7mm stone facing. Anyone who thinks railway modelling is boring needs to have a closer look!! Best wishes, Jeff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 15, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2012 Card formers attached to all 6 arches. Plasticard (probably 20thou) will be fitted over the top of these. Pillars need rubbing down and I need to acquire some square cross-section plastic for the boundary between lower pillar and arches. Jeff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 16, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2012 I am going to base my branchline viaduct on Lunds (S&C). This has a much wider archspan and thicker piers. Lunds is double track, my branch will only be single. My viaduct will also (hee hee) be curved... Hopefully the different style will contrast with the one I've just built. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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