halfwit Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Anyone used the Eileen's unit? http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=eny_fly_default.tpl&product_id=6680&category_id=312&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=9 Judging by the internal dimensions it seems suitable for medium sized 4mm locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) In the recent 'Cleaning brass kits' thread mention has been made of ultrasonic cleaners. A) But just how effective are they? B ) What cleaning agents can be used? C) And do people use them at every stage of a kit build (to remove flux residue for example) or just prior to painting? Hello halfwit, all, I'm not sure if all you questions have been answered, so I'm going to run through them. A), very effective, as they are used to clean surgical instruments, B) Any water based fluid, I use Citranox, it's based on citric acid. A good while back in M.R.J. there was someone using cellulose thinners to clean locos, this is not a good practice as the use of the cleaner can build up the heat and BANG. C) I use mine as and when I think that the kit needs it. But I do it before and after gritblasting so just before the primer goes on. OzzyO. Why have I got an emoticon where it should be B)? B ) Edited March 23, 2012 by ozzyo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Thanks for all the replies so far - it seems like I really ought to invest in one at some stage. A good while back in M.R.J. there was someone using cellulose thinners to clean locos, this is not a good practice as the use of the cleaner can build up the heat and BANG. I have also heard of using cellulose thinners in one - to me that seems like a very bad idea - if only because of the fumes! Two more questions - are they safe to use on glued components? And does anyone use theirs for cleaning airbrushes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Thanks for all the replies so far - it seems like I really ought to invest in one at some stage. Two more questions - are they safe to use on glued components? And does anyone use theirs for cleaning airbrushes? Hello halfwit, all, you can use them with glued components, BUT if the joint is not as good as it could be the bit will be in the bottom of the tank. How do I know this, don't ask! On the old cleaner that I have it's not too much of a problem as I siphon the fluid out, but on the new one it has a drain tap. But as I'm a tight bu99er I will use the fluid till it's taking too long to do the job, so I drain it into a container and then through a 'J' cloth (or kitchen roll) in a sieve. I did at one time try a cheap water filter to do this but after about 2L of fluid the filter was blocked, so I gave that up. I have not give mine ago with an airbrush but it should work as long as you have most of the paint out. I also think that a lot will be to do with the type of paint as to how it will work. OzzyO. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I have also heard of using cellulose thinners in one - to me that seems like a very bad idea - if only because of the fumes! Two more questions - are they safe to use on glued components? And does anyone use theirs for cleaning airbrushes? NO!!! Under no circumstances! Not unless one wants a conflagration of some proportions mon!!! On glued components one should be ok, at least I have not encountered a problem. As for clean ones airbrush? Very highly recommended, especially for the nozzle/needle thingies Sorry but I don't ken the exactitudes of airbrush workings.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted March 24, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2012 I sometimes use a denture cleaner (bought for MIL but she didn't want it). Not sure how effective, but it's shaken the dirt of a number of wheels. The size will fit an O scale bogie and smaller wagons in OO. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I shall dig out the wife's one for jewellery and try it on my old Badger (airbrush). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 YIKES!!! THAT is expensive.............. Not when you know the price of ones that are not cheap Chinese imports Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted March 25, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2012 Interest though this split opinion on whether ultrasonic cleaners are fiendishly expensive luxury or a must have item is I have a question for other established users. Has anyone any experience of using a parts basket with finer mesh than that supplied and/or any suggestions for what the finer mesh container could be? Today's task has been the assembly of all the parts for inside valve gear on three Penrhyn / Festiniog Railway Linda and Blanche models. Assembly to avoid the lot soldering up solid has included grease on the eccentric, flux where soldered and sticky fingers all over the place. At intervals they have been cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and now they're having another swim in it as the next job is to paint the bits before finally pinning it all together. My question comes from the experience that each time i clean these small bits the first burst of vibration causes them to fall through the mesh and I then have to fish them out from the bottom of the tank where they land in the muck cleaned off them. I am wondering if something like a sieve nicked from the kitchen or one of the little bags that the washing concoction is added to the washing machine in would do but my thoughts are that the mesh mush be large enough to let the vibrations in and the filth out. Suggestions encouraged please I am firmly in the camp that now has a cleaner and who wonders how he managed before but then I use mine almost daily which justifies the £190 i paid for it from an outfit in Hull on Ebay 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Has anyone any experience of using a parts basket with finer mesh than that supplied and/or any suggestions for what the finer mesh container could be? Hello ngtrains, all, for some of the small parts I use one of them tea things that have a top and bottom and clamps shut. Any thing that will let will let the fluid for the ultrasonic cleaner work, the cheap washing bags should work, or you could just fit the bottom of the basket with some finer mesh. HTH OzzyO. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 For things like valve gear parts that have holes in them, you can string them on a fine wire hooks that can be suspended from a heavier wire that is laid across the top of the tank. It is a good idea to leave space around each component. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 25, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2012 What cleaning agents can be used? A mate of mine has one for cleaning bike parts, he put a set of my carbs in and they came out like new. He just uses dishwasher detergent as the cleaning agent. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 27, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Try this gents.. http://www.killerink...-for-tattooing/ After reading through this thread the other day I decided to get one and now it's arrived I think it will be getting quite a bit of use. It's the same as the one linked to by Iak but I got it from Amazon for just under £90. The internal dimensions are 245 x 146 x 70mm and is large enough to fit an 4mm NER coach (or two) in it, what more would you need! I also ordered some cleaning fluid but it hasn't arrived yet. I've tried it with warm water and washing up liquid on a 'tarnished' coach body (the one pictured, been on the shelf for a couple of years) and after 6 min it had cleaned it fairly well, hopefully the proper fluid will work even better, I then tried the tank/cab sides of my 2012 challenge F8 and they are now gleaming!!! Lovely bit of kit! Edited March 27, 2012 by Worsdell forever 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hello W.F. welcome to the world of U/S cleaning. If your cleaning fluid has not turned up you can use about four or five squirts of the red Civet Bang in the water. Before using it I run it on degas for about 5mins. I don't know what it does but it seems to help with the cleaning. If you find any staining on the metal don't worry about it as it's only marks on the metal surface. The U/S cleaner looks to be a nice job at a good price. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Hello W.F. I've just had another look at you photos of your U/S cleaner and noticed the the handles are going to be below the surface of the fluid. I like to lift the item that is been cleaned while the cleaner is running, but it's not a good idea to put your fingers in the fluid as we are about 75% fluid and it could case harm to you. On my basket the handles come to above the top of the tank So it maybe an idea to make some extension handles to fit the basket. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2012 Hi OzzyO, I was thinking of adding some extensions, probably just some wires wrapped round the handles. Otherwise something like a loco or coach body could be flipped over with a stiff wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaf2u Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I'm sold (and so is SWMBO once I mentioned that it cleans jewellery too) - compliments to iak and Worsdell, just ordered on Amazon! I have a little brass Mercian Andrew Barclay 0-4-0 st that I am almost finished and is ripe for a trial run...... Will post before and after pictures once unit arrives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hello Kev I hope this thread will help you. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Has anyone any experience of using a parts basket with finer mesh than that supplied and/or any suggestions for what the finer mesh container could be? Hello ngtrains, I think that I did answer this question before, but you could use a nylon / plastic tea strainer. Another way is to use a plastic or metal dish with U/S cleaning fluid in it and pop that into the tank. It doesn't have to be submerged it could float on the surface in the tank. The U/S waves will pass through the walls of the dish.The plastic ones will absorb more of the power than the metal one. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Hello Has any one tried one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200685959518?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1879wt_800 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) Hello Has any one tried one of these? http://www.ebay.co.u...9#ht_1879wt_800 Hello Bulldog, I did mention one of these in Mess #35 but I had forgotten the name of them, it's a tea infuser. Have a look in Tesco etc.. and you should be able to pick one up for about £1,00. It won't be a fiver! Edit. Well it's not a fiver it works out at £7.50 with P&P. I've just measured mine and it's about 45mm dia. I use it a lot in the U/S/C and just for washing small parts with red Cillit Bang. In a small tub. OzzyO. Edited May 5, 2012 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) Hello Has any one tried one of these? http://www.ebay.co.u...9#ht_1879wt_800 may be handy in 2mm scale but will have to bend and crush the 7mm kit up a little to get it inside. Still not quite sure of the point of a basket. Bits really shouldn't fall off, when they have been soldered on and if they  do then filtration of the wash should be suffice. Especially if any basket diminishes the power of the unit to do an effective clean. I always think that we run the risk with some gadgets and dare I say gimmicks that we come to rely on them too much and forget about the old tried, trusted and established methods that have worked perfectly well for decades. But have to admit investing in an upgrade to something that will take 7mm kits - that Maplin one is not going to break the bank, but I promise myself I will not throw away the Cif and toothbrush. Edited May 5, 2012 by Kenton Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Especially if any basket diminishes the power of the unit to do an effective clean. Hello Kenton, the plastic baskets absorb more power than the metal ones. But to overcome that you just give them a bit more time. Have a look at the mess. just before yours. I was writing it as you were writing yours. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) the plastic baskets absorb more power than the metal ones. But to overcome that you just give them a bit more time. Hi OzzyO Yes I appreciate that, but if I read the spec of that Maplin u/s correctly it has a finite time cycle which is somewhat short duration. It could be quite a hassle having to switch it on every 480 seconds. I have seen the results on small kits even in a small bath. The ability to get into those spaces a toothbrush will not reach and around the delicate detail of an underframe is impressive, but I simply can't see myself using one during each part clean, or even for the end of each session flux wash out. Edited May 5, 2012 by Kenton Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Hi OzzyO Yes I appreciate that, but if I read the spec of that Maplin u/s correctly it has a finite time cycle which is somewhat short duration. It could be quite a hassle having to switch it on every 480 seconds. Hello Kenton, how long do you think you have to clean a kit in the U/S/C? If you have to use 480 secs. (8mins.) in one go that is one dirty kit, you may need to do that time on something like a car carburettor, that will be covered in all sorts of muck, oil etc. For a quick clean during a build 3 - 5 mins. is plenty, it takes me longer to set it all up than it takes to do the cleaning. If I could leave it set up all the time it wouldn't be so bad. For the final clean before the primer goes on I do a bit more cleaning, than a during a build clean. I start with the fluid at about 55 deg. (I have my own pan for warming it up, with a sugar thermometer in it), then it's into the U/S/C and degas for three mins., then the body goes in upside down for three mins,, then the L & R sides for three mins. each, then the right way up for three mins..Then it's into degaussed plain hot water for three mins. upside down and right way up. It may not be for everyone but it works for me. OzzyO. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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