Tillton Station - Modern Era N Gauge

[Guest]

THIS LAYOUT NO LONGER EXISTS DUE TO SPACE RESTRICTIONS IN NEW HOUSE, A NEW BOARD HAS BEEN USED AND I HAVE CREATED A NEW THREAD FOR THE LAYOUT PLAN. PLEASE SEE HERE: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/59949-modern-era-n-gauge-track-plan-help/

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone. As some of you may have seen I have a thread on my new layout already, but I have now dedicated that thread to the planning. This thread will contain the actual building of the layout and all the layout progress / updates.

 

 

 

 

Regarding the baseboard it will be resting on 2 Ikea units put together

 

The actual board is 1 piece of chipboard, measuring 155cm x 85cm. I am hoping to fix some battens across ways along the bottom - room for wires - tomorrow or Sunday.

 

Any tips are welcome, although if it is to do with layout design or changing the track plan please make a post in this thread: (http://www.rmweb.co....713#entry676713)

 

 

 

Thanks, MNG

[Guest]

Hey everyone, how are things?

 

Finally! An actual update on the layout lol. 3 battens have been placed along the bottom of the board to support it and raise it for wiring. It is not the best, most complicated framework ever but it is fine for what I need.

 

 

 

As you can also see there is 6 rubber pads attached to the battens (2 on each). This is to stop the battens from slipping (the IKEA unit has a very smooth surface)

 

 

And here is my "practice plank". Fancy name really - all it is is an off-cut from my main baseboard and then I just sanded it down. It will using this to practice all my techniques on before applying it to the 'real' layout.

 

 

Thanks very much, all feedback welcome, MNG

[philiprporter]

I might be being pessimistic here, but I would add more by way of a frame/bracing beneath your chipboard - that stuff twists and warps like crazy if its not braced/supported well. On my previous OO layout I had 4 foot by 18 inch boards and originally framed the outer edges with 2" x 1" timber and that wasnt enough to stop warping, so I had to add cross-bracing every 12" - that cured it. Loads of info on here and in the mags on baseboard framing etc. Hope this helps,

[devondynosoar118]

I agree with the above too. Just put batten round the edge joined to the existing supports, screw and glue them then put a bit of cross bracing diagonally if possible. Sealing and painting or varnishing it will help too. I scrapped one board and had another bow, despite my best efforts.

[shreives]

Hi MNG love the plan looks really interesting and will be watching with interest. I agree with the above though mate i would suggest putting an outter frame round aswell to save any problems in the future. great start and keep up the great work

 

stu

[Guest]

Hi MNG love the plan looks really interesting and will be watching with interest. I agree with the above though mate i would suggest putting an outter frame round aswell to save any problems in the future. great start and keep up the great work

 

stu

 

Thanks Stu, loving your layout Stuarts Lane, it is brilliant - one of my favourites, just shows what you can fit into 4ft x 2ft in N gauge, can't wait for those pics - will be really interesting to see the overall track plan.

 

And the track plan has changed, yet again - I am terrible! Well I say changed, it's just another idea really, but a really different one.... see the last post (#107) on this thread for more detail: (http://www.rmweb.co....t/page__st__100)

 

Regarding the boards they seem fine at the moment, no sagging or warping at all. And to be honest putting on an outer frame and adding lots of cross bracing etc. is going to be very hard work for me and going to cost money - which I don't have..... but then I know you are going to say that it will be worth it because if the board warps at a later date when everything is on it then it will cost more money. To be honest I am shooting myself in the foot here, it seems I have a dilemma on my hands.....

[Heinz57]

Liking the new track plans!

 

With regards to the board you would be best to 'bite the bullet' and add the extra framing. The board will seem fine now, but over time it will start to sag and warp. Another problem you may face is the edge of the board getting damaged (particularly the corners) from wear and tear. The framing around the edge will stop this happening. Too add this extra framing you will only need one maybe two more strips of timber, if you visit a timber yard they will cost you a couple of quid each. Infact the total cost of both from a timber yard will be equal too or less than one purchased from somewhere like B&Q.

 

You'd be best to do it now, rather than leaving it and risking the layout getting damaged - after all the hard work you put into it. It will also be significantly harder to add the framing later after you have done sceninc work than it will be to do it now.

[Guest]

Liking the new track plans!

 

With regards to the board you would be best to 'bite the bullet' and add the extra framing. The board will seem fine now, but over time it will start to sag and warp. Another problem you may face is the edge of the board getting damaged (particularly the corners) from wear and tear. The framing around the edge will stop this happening. Too add this extra framing you will only need one maybe two more strips of timber, if you visit a timber yard they will cost you a couple of quid each. Infact the total cost of both from a timber yard will be equal too or less than one purchased from somewhere like B&Q.

 

You'd be best to do it now, rather than leaving it and risking the layout getting damaged - after all the hard work you put into it. It will also be significantly harder to add the framing later after you have done sceninc work than it will be to do it now.

 

Thanks for the kind comments and advice Heinz, in my personal opinion I think I should add some extra battens around the edge at least, because even though it looks fine at the minute like most of you say - it may warp over time. But I have got to ask my dad as he is the one who has all the tools and actually does most of the work, but it's all a bit busy at the moment as we are moving house. I will either have to just continue and begin laying some track or wait a while until we have moved and then add some more battens on.

 

Don't suppose anyone knows any decent timber yards in Northampton or around that area....? Because like you say Heinz - B&Q are very expensive and the wood isn't that amazing, one of my bits was slightly curved. Oh and as for Homebase - they are ridiculous prices on some things...!

 

Thanks again chaps for your sound advice - I guess just being young I want to get some track down and get my new controller and finally 'play some trains' but I need to learn to be patient and do the right thing lol.

 

 

 

Oh and regarding track plan think I am going to go for this one:

 

- FRONT

 

- FIDDLE

 

I know it might not have the same effect as the 'curved plan' seen in the first post but this new plan is what I would prefer more - lots of stations and platforms lol! Plus I quite like the idea of being able to run three trains continuously - the very outer loop for freight (running round the back of the station - I think this is what happens? Because when I used to pick my dad up from Wellingborough Station the freight line used to run round the back - 'out of the way' type thing) And then the next one in for HST passenger services with the station platform. And then the inside loop for DMU's and maybe some more freight - all part of the fun really deciding what goes where and I suppose that's why I want to get started on it all lol.....

 

 

Thanks again, MNG

[Guest]

Hey guys, sorry about the lack of updates. I am waiting till we move house then I can get the extra supports on the board, wont warp in the next few weeks will it lol?

 

(I know I don't know much about wood but if I just screwed the pieces I've got wouldn't that be enough...? I can't see how the board can warp if it is being held rigid and straight with 3 pieces of wood... my dad agrees as well.)

 

--------------------------------------------------

 

 

Did want to ask a quick question about points.... Because they cost so much I was trying to keep the amount of them to a minimum. Well basically my Grandad told me the other day that he is going to give me all his Model Railway stuff because he is too old now. Amongst all these things are some N gauge medium radius points, but they are electrofrog and my layout is going to be DC and I was planing on buying normal insulfrog points.....

 

So obviously to save money it would be good if I could use these electrofrog points that my Grandad has (there is about 5-6 of them - about £40 worth) they may be more in other boxes (I only looked in one!) So my question is can I use these? From my understanding of reading a few other forums and interent pages (Brain Lambert being one of them - thanks Devondynosoar118) is that I would need to add some IRJ's and add extra wires to the sidings that I would be using them on...? Is this correct? And if I was using them for the front scenic side where the purpose of the points is to connect the loops then would I need extra wires or just the 2 from the controller...? :scratchhead:

 

 

Thanks guys, MNG

[porkie]

With electrofrog points u have to isolate the frog as it is always live and will short out.

 

Their is plenty of onfo on the net on how to do it, basicly use the plastic fish plates on the two inside rails

Of the point. And then solder the correct feed wire to the track you conect.

 

Heres a power feed plan to my layout which should make it look easyer than it sounds

 

 

Hope this helps

[Guest]

Thanks porkie, that helps a lot. Will talk to my Grandad about it when I next see him.

 

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I am going to visit my model shop after school tomorrow to get some bits for my "practice plank" which will have all the necessary track work and scenic items that will need to be used on the proper layout so I can test it out first to save costly mistakes.

 

Here is a rough track plan for it:

 

 

As you can see there is most things that can be practiced and then used on the real layout. Like connecting streamline points to flexitrack and setrack, and also connecting flexitrack with setrack. There will also be retaining walls used so I can practise putting them up and a station so I can see which is the best method (at the minute I am leaning towards peco lineside platform edges, any recommendations on how to make the platform surface for this method?)

 

 

Thanks, Oli

[Guest]

Hi, how is everyone?

 

Popped into the model shop after school today, purchased:

 

x3 Peco Code 80 Flexitrack

Peco Medium Radius R/H Point

Xuron Vertical Track Cutters

Needle File

UHU Glue

 

Then printed off the templates from anyrail, condensed it down to 3 pages of A4....

 

 

Then I began laying the track - was very nervous for some reason, plus my hands were sweating because it is so muggy today! But surprisingly I thought it went quite well and before I knew it I had laid everything apart from the curved piece. Now I have a few questions about the track being a newbie!

 

 

1) I removed one sleeper to allow room for the rail joiner, but now I have added the rail joiner how do I get the sleeper back on, or don't I? Do I just leave it off....? Because there is now a gap that doesn't look very good...

 

 

 

 

2) How do I get around this...?

 

 

Do I just trim the outside of the sleeper on the flexitrack or a bit off both....?

 

 

 

3) Because this last piece is curved do I have to do anything different? Remember reading something about having to trim inner or outer rail....? Sorry, probably sound like a right idiot but I've never done this before lol!

 

 

 

Thanks very much, Oli

[shanks522]

Hi Oli,

 

Glad to see you have taken the plunge and started a practice plank, In answer to your questions the track connecting to the point will need the sleepers trimming like you say, just trim a little off at a time and you'l be fine, As for cutting the rail you probably won't have to in this situation. The other question about the gap which needs filling with a sleeper is a little trickier, personally i use a stanley knife to cut out the chair (where the rail threads through) enough to slide underneath and fill the void. Hope that is of some help.

 

Cheers

 

Graham.

[Guest]

Hi Oli,

 

Glad to see you have taken the plunge and started a practice plank, In answer to your questions the track connecting to the point will need the sleepers trimming like you say, just trim a little off at a time and you'l be fine, As for cutting the rail you probably won't have to in this situation. The other question about the gap which needs filling with a sleeper is a little trickier, personally i use a stanley knife to cut out the chair (where the rail threads through) enough to slide underneath and fill the void. Hope that is of some help.

 

Cheers

 

Graham.

 

Thanks Graham, that has helped a lot - that last bits seems very fiddly lol! But I have managed to trim the sleepers so they don't collide now but my only problem is the rail length. Can't seem to get it right, next to the point the outside rail is too long and at the other end the inside rail is too long. So tried to trim the down using the cutters - very good by the way - but still can't seem to get it too work.... getting frustrated lol! So hot as well, definitely not going to be able to get to sleep tonight!

 

 

Thanks, Oli

[devondynosoar118]

That can get annoying, use your needle file to fine tune engths. Peco do packets of sleepers that fit around the joiners. You can also carefully cut off the chair but leave the sleeper attached to the plastic web on code 80, the joiner will slide underneath and there I'll be no gap.

[Revolution Ben]

Hello MNG,

 

With your siding, I suspect that as you curve the track back to parallel you are finding that the outer rail wants to pull away from the point.

 

There are various ways round this, and you should experiment, but the good thing about Code 80 track is that the rail slides fairly freely in the chairs, making this part a little easier.

 

I would be inclined to fit the track joiners, fix the siding in line with the point, then gently curve the track into position while pushing the outer rail from the other end, to ensure the butt join where the rails meet the point stay snug. Once you have curved the rail to shape, and fixed it down, depending on the length of flexi track you are using you can either continue it to make the straight section, or cut it there ready to accept a length of straight track to cpmplete your siding.

 

It can be a bit fiddly and learning how track behaves under tension (and how to get it to stay where you want it!) is part of the learning process. That's the beauty of making a practice "plank" first - it means you can master this sort of thing before you start on your "proper" layout!

 

Good luck!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

 

One the

[Guest]

That can get annoying, use your needle file to fine tune engths. Peco do packets of sleepers that fit around the joiners. You can also carefully cut off the chair but leave the sleeper attached to the plastic web on code 80, the joiner will slide underneath and there I'll be no gap.

 

Certainly is annoying lol! Please could you send me a link of these sleepers that Peco do? The only ones I have seen so far are these:

 

http://www.gaugemast...?code=PESL-308F

 

Or are they what you are talking about?

 

Thanks, Oli

 

 

Hello MNG,

 

With your siding, I suspect that as you curve the track back to parallel you are finding that the outer rail wants to pull away from the point.

 

There are various ways round this, and you should experiment, but the good thing about Code 80 track is that the rail slides fairly freely in the chairs, making this part a little easier.

 

I would be inclined to fit the track joiners, fix the siding in line with the point, then gently curve the track into position while pushing the outer rail from the other end, to ensure the butt join where the rails meet the point stay snug. Once you have curved the rail to shape, and fixed it down, depending on the length of flexi track you are using you can either continue it to make the straight section, or cut it there ready to accept a length of straight track to cpmplete your siding.

 

It can be a bit fiddly and learning how track behaves under tension (and how to get it to stay where you want it!) is part of the learning process. That's the beauty of making a practice "plank" first - it means you can master this sort of thing before you start on your "proper" layout!

 

Good luck!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

 

One the

 

Thanks Ben, that sounds like a good idea - will try it out later.

 

You're right - it is very fiddly lol - just found my Peco catalogue and there is a two page spread in there about laying N gauge track so I am currently reading through it.

 

Yes, that is the beauty of having a "practice plank" - great for trying out lots of different techniques.

 

Thanks again, Oli

 

P.S Posted this on my planning thread (#105), not sure if you saw it....?:

 

"Anyone coming to the big annual Northampton and Corby District model railway exhibition on the 21st of July out of interest? Really looking forward to it, being opened by Chris Leigh from Model Rail I think. Will you be there Ben? I know you are part of this group, or am I thinking of someone else lol....? Uh....... "

 

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EDIT: Quick questions regarding gluing the track down, I bought some UHU but thinking about it I am going to use loads, it will be very costly and the stuff is terribly messy. Could I maybe use PVA? If so what ratio regarding water... 1:1, or no water at all? Thanks guys, Oli

[-missy-]

EDIT: Quick questions regarding gluing the track down, I bought some UHU but thinking about it I am going to use loads, it will be very costly and the stuff is terribly messy. Could I maybe use PVA? If so what ratio regarding water... 1:1, or no water at all? Thanks guys, Oli

 

Hello Oli.

 

I would suggest using PVA to stick the track down. I wouldnt dilute it at all but use it straight from the pot, spread it over the area you are laying the track down with a paintbrush (you can wash it out afterwards). Dont forget some weights to hold the track in position until the glue is dry.

 

Missy

[Guest]

Thanks -missy- I went with your method, PVA straight from the pot - also used some double sided sticky tape though for extra strength.

 

Just glued one piece to start off with to see how it goes, then if all goes well will hopefully do all the rest tomorrow.

 

Have decided to leave the sidings out for two reasons, number one being that I don't wont to use a point in case I damage or ruin it during the ballasting process and can't get it back up and the second reason being I can't sort out that bl**dy curve!

 

Oh and I managed to sort out the sleepers and fill in the missing gap, might put a picture up later - doing some english homework and the minute though...

 

 

Thanks, Oli

[Heinz57]

Glad to see your getting on well with your track laying. Your making a cracking job of it, very impressive. Especialy because its your first time laying it. The first time I laid it I made a complete mess. I've laid it several times since and I'm still no better!

 

With regards to the UHU, you will deffinatly find 10001 uses for it during construction. I use UHU to stick people and buildings to baseboards and other simaler uses. But your right, it is messy. I tend to go for the 'Solvent Free' version For two reasons, not only do the walls not start to melt after a couple of minuites using, but its less stringy - so not as messy.

 

I like the track plan for your main project. Nice and busy, plenty of interest - just the way I like them. Am I correct in understanding that 'grayed out' area in the corner there is like a town scene built above the tracks hidden below?

[Guest]

Here is that picture that I promised:

 

 

These were the only weights I could find lol, everything else was too light and didn't do the job so I just used a couple of these! Seems to be going good, I keep moving them around every couple of hours...

 

 

Glad to see your getting on well with your track laying. Your making a cracking job of it, very impressive. Especialy because its your first time laying it. The first time I laid it I made a complete mess. I've laid it several times since and I'm still no better!

 

With regards to the UHU, you will deffinatly find 10001 uses for it during construction. I use UHU to stick people and buildings to baseboards and other simaler uses. But your right, it is messy. I tend to go for the 'Solvent Free' version For two reasons, not only do the walls not start to melt after a couple of minuites using, but its less stringy - so not as messy.

 

I like the track plan for your main project. Nice and busy, plenty of interest - just the way I like them. Am I correct in understanding that 'grayed out' area in the corner there is like a town scene built above the tracks hidden below?

 

Thanks very much about the track plan - although, being me, it has changed again! Took on board some peoples comments about it being too crammed so got rid of the TMD to make it more realistic, back to the original now lol. Yes that grey area is going to be a town scene above the tracks - gives the illusion that the station goes on for longer. Have made a new design illustrating my scenic intentions so it's a bit easier to understand, hope it helps....

 

* It should say "station building" not just "station" lol :S

 

May be a bit early on here but thinking of calling the layout "Tillton Station" because the very first layout that got me into railway modelling was called "Brenton" and the layout that gave me so many ideas and persuaded (didn't take much ) me to go N gauge was "Tillotson Road" by Oggy1953. So Tillotson and Brenton = Tillton and then station on the end becaue the main focus is the station... ;D

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Oli

[MrSimon]

Hey,

 

Looking good Mr - keep practicing with the old flexitrack, its a pain but there's now real way round it other than practice and take your time (some days, all you can lay is a few inches but its still an achievement when its right and looks good) In the bits marked as 'unsure' have you thought of good old-fashionned waste land? Its always good and sets modern trains off a treat. Theres a thread on here, I've forgotten its name but he says its very average - excellent modern run-down scenery

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[oggy1953]

Like the name, LOL. Thanks for the plug, will have to set it up again soon for a play in the garage but havn't got an exhib booked with it till November 2013. You are doing fine so far, as i said before no rush take your time it isnt a race. Any questions just ask as someone always comes up with an answer on here....Peter

[Guest]

Hey,

 

Looking good Mr - keep practicing with the old flexitrack, its a pain but there's now real way round it other than practice and take your time (some days, all you can lay is a few inches but its still an achievement when its right and looks good) In the bits marked as 'unsure' have you thought of good old-fashionned waste land? Its always good and sets modern trains off a treat. Theres a thread on here, I've forgotten its name but he says its very average - excellent modern run-down scenery

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

Thanks very much Simon, means a lot coming from you - I have seen your layout, Gresby isn't it? Fantastic modelling!

 

Hmmmm, wasteland, that's a good idea - the only layout I can think of is Widnes Vine Yard (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6775-widnes-vine-yard/) - is this the one you were thinking of?

 

Thanks again, Oli

 

Like the name, LOL. Thanks for the plug, will have to set it up again soon for a play in the garage but havn't got an exhib booked with it till November 2013. You are doing fine so far, as i said before no rush take your time it isnt a race. Any questions just ask as someone always comes up with an answer on here....Peter

 

Yeah had to have something with Tillotson incorporated somewhere into it lol - such a great layout! November 2013, blimey that's a while! Where will it be if you don't mind me asking...?

 

Yep, definitely not going to rush it - that's why I am doing this practice plank first - got the other line glued down this morning, it is drying as we speak....

 

Thanks, Oli

[MrSimon]

Hi - Yeah mines Gresby - thank you its all self taught so just give it a go and dont be afraid of making mistakes (I make loads and have to patch them up haha) it wasn't Widnes Vines Yard I was thinking about (although that's also excellent and wastelandy) it was Elwood East http://www.rmweb.co....c-very-average/ which is amazing, and pretty derelict but in a really cool way - its what I was aiming for with Gresby and didn't quite manage...!

 

Cheers

 

Simon