asa Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Too nice to leave out.I fancy one myself now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Too nice to leave out.I fancy one myself now. "Too nice to leave out"? I agree. It was built from a Connoisseur kit, and like all Jim's stuff it went together very well. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 (edited) Leaving Rule One aside for a moment I think I want nothing on Dock Green that would jar, that would stick out as wrong - so a blue diesel is out, but what about.... It's an ex-NER 10T brake van. I read that some of these did indeed survive into BR days, and it looks at home but what's it doing in North London....? Why leave out rule number one? It looks great anyway. Edited November 9, 2013 by Ruston Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Leaving Rule One aside for a moment I think I want nothing on Dock Green that would jar, that would stick out as wrong - so a blue diesel is out, but what about.... It's an ex-NER 10T brake van. I read that some of these did indeed survive into BR days, and it looks at home but what's it doing in North London....? It's pre-TOPS Chaz so anything could happen, after all there were GWR designed pannier tank locos on the Dornoch branch and ex-GER B12s on the former GNOSR. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 (edited) Yes OK, I bow to the inevitable. The 10T brake goes to Warley! I never intended to include many figures on the layout but I have added a couple of blokes. Static poses of course. First a shunter.... He's posed in front of a couple of vans in (grimy) BR crimson. The LH one is a Gresley 4 wheel pigeon van from a D & S kit and the other is an ex-GWR Fruit D from a WEP kit. Both kits were good to build, the parts fitting well and giving an accurate, well detailed result. I'm not sure what the other bloke's role is, he may be a guard taking the opportunity for a mug of tea before his next duty. This low viewpoint unkindly reveals the crude structure supporting the platform canopy - a view not normally available. Once again the camera betrays a couple of problems - the office under the canopy needs fixing down to eliminate the gap under that skirting and the handrail mounting on the canal bridge also has a gap under it. Chaz Edited November 9, 2013 by chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 "Once again the camera betrays a couple of problems ..." But it managed a shy self portrait in your second photo :-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudley Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Crikey! This is going to take a while..... Had my first go at doing stone setts using DAS today and I must say the results are most encouraging BUT it takes an awful long time to do a small area. I fixed a spare piece of Peco O gauge track to an offcut of foamboard. To economise I glued card between and over the sleepers so that the DAS would only need to be about 1.5mm thick. I coated the card with PVA and then applied the layer of DAS. I used a straight edge to make sure that the surface of the DAS was a little below the rail height - to avoid any potential problems later with the running of stock or locos. First picture shows my setup for scribing in the setts. From left to right.... old paint brush to clear the scrapings away - otherwise you can't see what you have done pencil the track/DAS sample scriber steel rule and engineers square to aid marking out (under the steel rule) a scrap of embossed brick sheet to help measure out the rows And behind... a print of some of the snaps I took at Amberley - I don't intend to follow these too closely but a bit of reality always helps... a table lamp - provides oblique directional lighting, emphasising the incisions A couple of hours with the scriber got me this. No doubt I will get quicker but when I realise that this is a couple of inches of track done and the siding I want to inset is about three feet long, it's going to be a slow job. I think I may have made the flangeways too wide. I will put a wagon on the sample and see if they can be narrower. I thought it best to use water based paint on the DAS so I mixed up a light (!) grey with artists acrylics. Whilst the paint was still wet I washed some of the colour off the setts with a brush loaded with just water. The result is (I think) very encouraging. However I now realise why you don't see stone setts modelled very often! Chaz Chaz, You could do with a 'random patch' template of some sort - think wire mesh/ copper wire/ soldered construction (= too fiddly?) - just like your 'patch' in the photo. Or even get your patch 'negative' moulded in resin and stick this to a piece of ply with handle, and stamp your setts into the DAS modelling clay. The retaining walls in this shot were made by laying kerbstones on their back and level and coating with a thin layer of concrete, then carefully pressing a clingfilm-wrapped thin plastic stone wall moulding into same. This doesn't help I guess but maybe it might help with the creative ideas process... Dudley http://www.dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 I did consider some sort of press or jig for the setts, Dudley but experience (I use to teach art and hence some pottery in the days when dinosaurs roamed the earth) suggested that something pressed into the surface would always look like exactly that. Also with such a large area to treat it would be difficult to avoid the repeating pattern effect. The wall in your photo is very effective - could you say how big it is? I would guess that the live steamer is bigger than 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 "Once again the camera betrays a couple of problems ..." But it managed a shy self portrait in your second photo :-) David Yes David, should have used a polarising filter . The camera is a Panasonic Lumix compact - it must be feeling rather smug at the moment as my "big" Nikon is misbehaving and has gone back to Nikon UK to have its futtocks fettled. Most of the snaps I have taken of Dock Green have been with the compact, it's so much easier than "faffing around" with a DSLR and the quality is certainly up to the standard required for the forum. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudley Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I did consider some sort of press or jig for the setts, Dudley but experience (I use to teach art and hence some pottery in the days when dinosaurs roamed the earth) suggested that something pressed into the surface would always look like exactly that. Also with such a large area to treat it would be difficult to avoid the repeating pattern effect. The wall in your photo is very effective - could you say how big it is? I would guess that the live steamer is bigger than 7mm. Chaz, My plastic stone wall mould came in A4 which I sliced up the length and taped end-to-end = 23". IIRC the kerbstones are about 5" high, the top 1' or so being tapered over. I had to do quite a bit of remedial work where the sheets ended/joined, to get any kind of continuation of the 'stonework'. The steam loco in-shot is 16mm-ft narrow gauge and running on the same gauge as 7mm. It measures 8.5" long (- and weighs 3lb 10oz). Your practice patch of stone setts with a thin grey wash look absolutely superb, but perhaps there is no easy way to such a high level of modelling. Like the fine artist/craftsman in any medium if you require that level of finish then you have to put the time in... (I'm looking for an Emoticon of a man breaking rocks...) Dudley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudley Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Yes David, should have used a polarising filter . The camera is a Panasonic Lumix compact - it must be feeling rather smug at the moment as my "big" Nikon is misbehaving and has gone back to Nikon UK to have its futtocks fettled. Most of the snaps I have taken of Dock Green have been with the compact, it's so much easier than "faffing around" with a DSLR and the quality is certainly up to the standard required for the forum. Chaz Rather than thinking polarising filter just ensure that whenever you point any camera at a reflective surface such as glass - or in this case transparent Plastikard - that you position the camera slightly off centre. Angle of incidence = angle of reflectance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Rather than thinking polarising filter just ensure that whenever you point any camera at a reflective surface such as glass - or in this case transparent Plastikard - that you position the camera slightly off centre. Angle of incidence = angle of reflectance. Well yes Dudley, I take your point. But for a quick snap like this it hardly matters..... does it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) Your practice patch of stone setts with a thin grey wash look absolutely superb, but perhaps there is no easy way to such a high level of modelling. Like the fine artist/craftsman in any medium if you require that level of finish then you have to put the time in... (I'm looking for an Emoticon of a man breaking rocks...) Dudley I think you have that spot on (and thanks for the appreciative comment) - that's what I felt when I was experimenting. In any case the week or so I spent scribing up the setts doesn't look like much when I reflect that the project was started in November 2010. My original hope, when I thought Dock Green would be a joint effort with two of us contributing equal amounts of time and energy, was that we might complete the layout in a year. That might have been somewhat optimistic but it was well and truly scuppered early on when my partner in crime cut his association with Dock Green entirely. Credit where it's due though, my good friend Peter stepped in and contributed significantly; for instance the cassettes and the road bridge at the right hand end of the layout are all his excellent work. It does seem a long time ago that I spread out 16 feet of lining paper on the kitchen floor (it wouldn't fit on my workbench) and started fiddling around with Peco point templates and long strips of paper with the rails of plain track drawn on them. I think one of the reasons why Dock Green has come together as well as it has is that it was planned from the start as a whole and this plan has been followed with only minor adjustments or changes. Chaz Edited November 10, 2013 by chaz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 10, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2013 I like your work on the setts. Chris Nevard used a biro (or similar) to make rond looking cobbles but it never cut the mustard for me far too regular. Have you seen George Tait's work on here scribing bricks and stones in Das looks really good. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 I like your work on the setts. Chris Nevard used a biro (or similar) to make rond looking cobbles but it never cut the mustard for me far too regular. Have you seen George Tait's work on here scribing bricks and stones in Das looks really good. Don "Have you seen George Tait's work" No, Don. I'd be grateful if you would post a link. When my next project - On30 US NG - gets underway I will want to produce some stonework bridge abuttments so any technique tips will be welcome.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I'll second that about George Tait's work, there are some videos by George in this thread of Andy's Trebudoc layout. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54364-trebudoc-in-o-gauge-videos-page-28-29-31-to-33-36/page-46 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) When my next project - On30 US NG - gets underway I will want to produce some stonework bridge abuttments so any technique tips will be welcome.... This may be of interest when you start your next project :- http://www.nmrabr.org.uk/forum/index.php As well as :- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/155-usa-canadian-railroads/ Edited November 10, 2013 by fatmac Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) This may be of interest when you start your next project :- http://www.nmrabr.org.uk/forum/index.php As well as :- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/155-usa-canadian-railroads/ Thanks for those links. Had a quick look and will spend more time later. I am already a user of the Narrow Gauge forum and did have a topic up and running on the Furness Valley Railroad. http://ngrm-online.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3998-furness-valley/ My original version which was dismantled is dealt with in this topic. I will start a new one shortly on the same forum called "Furness Valley v2" but this will not be until after Warley (not long now) when Dock Green will be finished and stored, ready for the next show..... Edited November 10, 2013 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 I'll second that about George Tait's work, there are some videos by George in this thread of Andy's Trebudoc layout. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54364-trebudoc-in-o-gauge-videos-page-28-29-31-to-33-36/page-46 Thanks for the link, no time now but will certainly have a look later.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Two boards up so that I could finish adding the trim to the baseboard edges and the Velcro just below it. Jill (who is making the curtains) suggested that the Velcro be a little below the trim so that the top of the curtains will tuck in snugly against the trim. I have been working on the other two boards for a while (the room is only big enough for two at a time) and swapping them over and seeing these two finished and ready to go I was quite bowled over and more than a little proud of what Pete and I have achieved. That's Pete's excellent bridge at the far end of the canopy. This is the first model railway I have ever finished - I have never bothered before - just shows what a motivation taking a layout to a big show is. Publishing details of the layout on this forum has also been a great encouragement to get on with it. I think I can allow myself some of these. :boast: :boast: :boast: 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 This is the first model railway I have ever finished - Congratulations! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 10, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2013 Chaz there is some good tips in George's work on this thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65362-abbots-bridge-72g/?hl=georget Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Chaz there is some good tips in George's work on this thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65362-abbots-bridge-72g/?hl=georget Don Thanks Don, I will have a look later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 That 10t brake van from the previous page. Who made ot and can I get one? That 10t brake van from the previous page. Who made ot and can I get one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Looks like a Connoisseur model...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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