Metropolitan Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 A friend gave me a carrier bag full of model railway parts and junk which he found when he moved house. Sifting through the mess I found what appears to be a complete K's LNER P2 which had fallen to bits. It had been glued together and the old glue had failed with age. The castings look to be fine however so I thought I'd rebuild it which is a first for me. Nowt wrong with the old K's stuff if you replace the motor and wheels no matter what anyone says. Valve gear is still servicable although the slidebars need re-fitting. All ready for the Nitromors bath. Bits outside the tub are for the dustbin. (Wheels, motor and tender chassis. All truly grim. How did K's ever get away with them??): Nitromors doing its stuff. ( I would swear it isn't as strong as it used to be!!!) Replacement parts are ordered as follows: Comet - First time they have ever failed me! They don't do a P4 chassis so I've got to make do with the K's one. They do a chassis for the tender which I've ordered. Markits - Superb wheelset. Pricey but sensationally good. HighLevel - Roadrunner+ gearbox with a 1424 Mashima. I am going to need to hack at the boiler in order to incorporate the motor as the kit was designed for the tiny K's standard motor ( It must have gone at a scale 200mph!!!!) Biggest problem is that there are no brakes. And on this loco there is no room between the drivers to fit any in! I do not know what to do about this yet. Does any one sell plastic ones? . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 All ready for the Nitromors bath. Bits outside the tub are for the dustbin. (Wheels, motor and tender chassis. All truly grim. How did K's ever get away with them??): I think my first kit was a K's. The motors wren't that bad! Many were using the XO4 or the Romford Bulldog if you could afford it. I think they got away with it on price. Most others were body only (wills) or needed motor, gears and wheels. The K's with everything was about the same as many needing motor and wheels. Hanblings wheels looked good but needed a press and there was the fear of quartering. The early Romfords were pricey and nothing like they are now, The bogie and tender wheels needed inserts to make them look half decent. So a kit with everything except glue and paint was good value. Kim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 We've been having a discussion on the LNER forum about modelling P2s. The following links may be of some help. My P2 build (Nu Cast) - LNER Forum My P2 Build (Nu Cast) - RMweb Blink Bonny's K's P2 Build - LNER Forum The K's is a bit of a basket case the more I look at it. The Cab has a lot of details missing compared to the prototype, though the front end looks much better than my Nu Cast P2 purely on the basis of the rivets. It's interesting that so many P2 projects are surfacing at once! EDIT: Also, that model appears to be of Thane of Fife - the only single chimney P2, but the model has a double chimney. Whichever of the P2s you decide to model in the final form, they all had detail differences which has led me down the path of trying to research as best as possible which one suits the kit best with minimal changes (though I'm making lots of changes to mine to try and bring it up to scratch). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 I think my first kit was a K's. The motors wren't that bad! Many were using the XO4 or the Romford Bulldog if you could afford it. I think they got away with it on price. Most others were body only (wills) or needed motor, gears and wheels. The K's with everything was about the same as many needing motor and wheels. Hanblings wheels looked good but needed a press and there was the fear of quartering. The early Romfords were pricey and nothing like they are now, The bogie and tender wheels needed inserts to make them look half decent. So a kit with everything except glue and paint was good value. Kim Actually I completely agree with you. The concept of the K's vacuum packed kits where you got everything you needed in the box was excellent. No hunting around for wheels and motors etc. A pity they never got the quality quite right and tended to manufacture down to a price which, in the end, never pays. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 EDIT: Also, that model appears to be of Thane of Fife - the only single chimney P2, but the model has a double chimney. Whichever of the P2s you decide to model in the final form, they all had detail differences which has led me down the path of trying to research as best as possible which one suits the kit best with minimal changes (though I'm making lots of changes to mine to try and bring it up to scratch). Thanks for that. I'm discarding the name plates anyway and will choose a double chimney one. As for riivets: Archers to the rescue again!!! How can anyone model without Archers rivets!!!??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Looking at that <cough> 'chassis' reminds us just how far we've come in 35 years or so, doesn't it? Yes, I agree; the idea of everything being there was a good one, and in fairness some K's kits weren't bad efforts either. The smaller models weren't so affected by the small motors, for obvious reasons. It was the bigger 'lumps' that suffered more. I managed, as a spotty teenager, to get a Kirtley 0-6-0 to run properly, so the concept wasn't bad! John, I have the same opinion of Nitromors - the modern 'mix' is more, shall we say, 'environmentally friendly' - in other words, not as effective Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 brake fluid is an excellent alternative if ever you want to give it a try and is safe on plastics . cheap and easy to get hold of too my uncle uses it to rescue old scalextric buildings that have been bladdered in humbrol by kids and ive used it on brass and whitemetal kits aswel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 brake fluid is an excellent alternative if ever you want to give it a try and is safe on plastics . cheap and easy to get hold of too my uncle uses it to rescue old scalextric buildings that have been bladdered in humbrol by kids and ive used it on brass and whitemetal kits aswel. Nice tip. Will try next time as a small tin of Nitromors is now a tenner!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted August 31, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 31, 2012 Brake fluid isn't cheap either. I'm not sure that brake fluid is safe on all plastics. Best to check on some small and unimportant part before dunking anything important. Is a NuCast P2 not actually the same as a K's P2? A lot of the NuCast range is ex-Ks. For plastic brakeshoes, your best bet may be a spare part from an RTR product. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 I have just stripped a Nu cast J26 using brake fluid. It was glued together and the glue came away as well which was a bonus. Loco body now soldered (tender still to do). Small bottle was about £3.50 in Halfords which was more than enough to do the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 ...How can anyone model without Archers rivets!!!??? Quite easily, actually. I get by with tiny styrene cubes and dots, kept in place with solvent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Brake fluid isn't cheap either. it is if you siphon it out of someone's car who you dont like very much Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Would appear 2012 is the year of the P2. I know of at least 4 being built (not including my planned two) and at least another one planned. Won't be long until the entire class is with us again. As for names, Lord President and Mons Meg are probably the best for this kit, as these were the closest to being two of the same in the class, as all the others have various detail differences. Edit: Manley Trains do some etched brass brakes for both loco and tender: http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/4mm-loc-cha-par-brakegearbrakeshoes.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 it is if you siphon it out of someone's car who you dont like very much I've just tried your suggestion but the wife caught me at it. Just about got away with it by telling her I was just checking the levels for her and found that the brake fluid was on the high side. Still, I got enough into the syringe to give the parts a coat of brake fluid as the Nitromors was only partially successful. (Is it just me that finds this "New" Nirtromors much feebler than the old brew?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 It is probably like a lot of things and dumbed down on the grounds of health and safety. After all most of the great unwashed are too stupid to take precautions and need to be protected from themselves. At least thats what they tell us. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted September 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 1, 2012 it is if you siphon it out of someone's car who you dont like very much Love it! Scouse nous rules ok! Reminds me of the old railway trick if someone parked illegally, in the days before locking petrol caps. Pour granulated sugar into the tank - it will dissolve, but then crystallize again in the very low temperature of the carburretor venturi, rendering the car dead some distance from the scene of the crime! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I suppose that if you did siphon out the brake fluid, it would actually be a kindness to nick the wheels as well Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I suppose that if you did siphon out the brake fluid, it would actually be a kindness to nick the wheels as well Ed thats a dying art now, but my dad who's a mechanic has turned his skills to other uses by getting off locking wheel nuts when people loose them.theres not a car yet that he hasnt been able to get off. also handy knowing a mechanic as you they can dispose of nasty brake fluids in the proper way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 John - your driving wheels look to be the same as mine. If the nu-cast and keyser driving wheels are the same, how have you removed them from their axles? I have found what seem to be the same type of wheels from a long defunct nu-cast A2/1 kit and can't work out how to remove the driving wheels to replace them! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted September 1, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1, 2012 I can't find my EM GS leaflet to check and can't log on to their site either but they may do frames for a P2? (They do frames for a huge range of loco's). That's a start. P @ 36E Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Alan Gibson do frames LM1 - 231 LNER P2 2-8-2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 John, use Celolose Thinners, will remove the paint in one go, and also get rid of the old glue and gunge. DONT use it on PLASTIC. Mick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 John - your driving wheels look to be the same as mine. If the nu-cast and keyser driving wheels are the same, how have you removed them from their axles? I have found what seem to be the same type of wheels from a long defunct nu-cast A2/1 kit and can't work out how to remove the driving wheels to replace them! Hi The old K's wheels are 'orrible steel rimmed plastic things which wobble all over the place. When NuCast took over the old K's range they started supplying Romfords which were a lot better but not really prototypical. Markits, however, now do gorgeous spot on NS rimmed all-metal LNER wheels together with sensational stainless steel axles for this loco and it is these that I have ordered. If you have Romfords you need a special screwdriver to get them off. If they are the old K's jobbies they have a cheesehead screw. All other wheels just simply prize, cut and yank them off and discard. And, yes, in 00 that includes Ultrascales which are plastic as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I suppose that if you did siphon out the brake fluid, it would actually be a kindness to nick the wheels as well Yes, but then you'd have to supply bricks as replacements. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Use wood! Safer in that it give you a warning when it's about to fail while you're under the car errr aquiring further parts... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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