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Marcs RTR bodges


Marcyg

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Andi, Is the underbody equipment possible by using the Hornby and Lima items and cutting and shutting them? Nice 86 by the way :sungum:

The undergubbins on mine is the Hornby stuff with one compressor replaced with a box made from plasticard, and a slight tweak to the boxes on the electrical conduit run above the compressors. Beware if doing 101 that her underframe gear changed at some point after my era and was not the same then as it is now.

 

(Oh and that's a handbuilt pan assembly using a Lima pan head)

 

Andi

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I make no excuses for using Lima and Hornby roof items. The pantograph is pretty close to the original and the roof insulators are from Hornby. This is a budget build and seeing as Baccy won't sell their panto as a seperate item, I'm limited.

 

 

Baccy now sell their pan as a spare at £12 a chuck plus postage. Well worth grabbing one.

 

Cav

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  • 2 months later...

The latest batch of locos, 4 Lima 47's. All sprayed by aerosol. Yellow is Vauxhall mustard yellow, Blue is Railmatch Blue and the grey is Rustoleum dark Grey

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Guess which 47 this will be

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  • 4 weeks later...

A further update on these locos. The main painting has finished, apart from a few touch ups. Need to do the cant rail stripes, I havn't got a bow pen, and no idea how to use one, so thinking the transfers from fox, and maybe free-hand the cabs?

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I also picked this up on the Bay. The colour seems a bit suspicious, but with a tidy up, it could look quite good...

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Now on to transfers...

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Great work regarding the Class 81, i've just bought a bodyshell on thiefbay so I've read your thread with interest and picked up a few hints, tips and ideas along the way.

                                                                                        Regarding

                                                                                                                          Simon

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  • 5 months later...

A Yeoman 59 conversion with a 66 chassis. Same as what Pugsley done to his, but mine will be no where near as advanced.

 

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Old and new chassis. By this point I'd already adapted the Bachmann chassis to fit the Lime one. The front light clusters need filing down to match the profile of the rest of the front panel. If it were an ARC or NatPower loco, the lights could stay and I'd probably use the Bachmann lights. I do have another chassis here, so if I extend the 59 fleet, a 59/1 is probably next.

 

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Adapting the fuel tanks. I did consider using the Lima model, but Lima plastic can be a pig to glue. On Pugsleys machine, he cut the 66 tank into various slices then reattatched them to get a perfect match, I cheated. I cut enough off to get a reasonable representation. It still looks the part, and the filler caps are in pretty much the correct places. The battery boxes are again the Bachman items, adapted to have the master cut off switch the other side of the box.

 

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The air tanks. These had to be the Lima items, but only the ends. They were filed to the correct shape then glued to a suitable diameter tube.

 

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All in place. Now I need to attack it with a bit of filler just to smooth it out a bit.

On a side not, my donor 59 didn't come with any of the seperatly attatched pipes that fit to the air tanks and sole bars. If someone has a spare set PLEASE let me know! :telephone:

 

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Next up came the bogies. Cut Bachmann frames off, fit Lima ones, right? Wrong... I firstly attatched the Lima frames so the axles boxes are in line with the axles. Then I found the bogies wouldn't turn. The 59 frames are taller than the 66 ones, so they foul the body work. A bit of adjustment and so filing and they're getting there, still not perfect, a bit more work to do with a file, but a lot closer than the first attempt

 

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The bogies attatched to check for clearances

 

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Final pic so far. This is the front air dam. A LOT thicker than it needs to be, but a lot stronger too, and it matches the plate above it. Unlike Pugsley, I've left the light boxes in place on the sole bar. I cut the sand boxes off, but I felt the effort to cut the other bits off was too much, so the buffer beam is still the original thickness still. I have however, fitted the strengthening pieces to the back of the buffer beam.

 

That's pretty much it so far as I need to get some filler to tidy things up. I'm still undecided whether to fit the 66 roof grills to the 59 body yet. They look good, but I'm not sure I won't screw the body up doing it, I don't want to repaint it

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Nope, still not letting me. I used to Ctrl V the image code from Photobucket and it worked every time. It's not even letting me paste things now, even plain text. I tried the image editor and it edited the image ok, but won't let me upload it either. I give up. Hope the restriction is lifted soon or this thread will go pretty quiet :cry:

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Appears Chrome isn't affected. On a side note, imagine if Airbus or Boeing forced untested and totally unrealiable products on people (I know there's been a few issues, but not to bring a plane down).

 

 

Anyhoo, the 47's. I havn't forgotten them, I just forgot to update this thread.

 

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47322

 

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47401

 

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47326

 

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And lastly 47220, which still needs a chassis. 

All still need buffer beam and final detailing, but that won't be for a little while now

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Now for the 59 update. It's finished as far as I can go at the mo. I'm still needing the side pipes, unavailable from Hornby, so the search continues.

 

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The front deflector plate fitted and finished. I'm not sure if 002 ever had white lined buffers, but 001 did, and I thought it looked very smart, so I decided to take a liberty and add them to the model.

 

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Father and son? The 66 chassis will eventually go under an ARC body. Before anyone asks, the 66 body won't be for sale as it looks like it's been dropped and is covered in huge cracks.

 

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I've kept the tension lock this end as what it pulls has these awful things still. Good things is, the 66 has NEM pockets, so soon as the wagons get converted, this can be changed too

 

So, from the outside, she looks like a boggo standard 59, until she pulls away with a scale load, which is well beyond what it could do before!

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Hi, looks like they're coming on well, I like the 59, I've wondered about doing the same, but since a) I have 5 of them and b) they rarely ever get used and spend most of their lives on a shelf, its not a high priority!  I do, though, have quite a few 66s too, and one thing which always irritates me is the lack of deep bufferbeam where tension locks are fitted - even some nicely detailed/weathered examples at exhibitions are still lacking this, and to me, it spoils the look.  I don't know if you're planning on leaving it like that or not, but it IS possible to make one and still have room for the coupling to swing.  Basically the same as you did on the other end, but an elongated U shape with just very thin ends, I have done this on my 66s and they can still traverse reasonably sharp curves without a problem.  Obviously, you have to be careful, as they are quite delicate, but I think it makes a big difference, they get rid of the 'open' look around the coupling.

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  • 4 months later...

Wow, long time since I updated this too. The 59 project went well, and it works-some of the time. It hops, skips and jumps it's way down the track. Anyone had running problems with Bachmann 66's? I'll put up some pics of other things I been up to when I get a chance, but this is all I got so far

 

Wasn't happy with the way the headlights looked on the Hornby 91 and its DVT, so I bought some class 90 headlights, and set to work swapping things about and grafting them onto the DVT.

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I think the last photo shows just how rubbish the printed lights look. Even though my first attempt isn't perfect, I think it makes the front look loads better. I learnt a few things about it too, so the next go should be a lot better

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Found some more! Knew they were somewhere...

 

Been attacking HST's. The Swallow ones look strange, the headlamp rear is the same bright yellow as the warning panel. A bit of black helps improve it.

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I also painted the headlamp surrounds silver. Sharpe paint pens are great for this, and when dry, they're quite hard wearing

 

Second was a DVT conversion.

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Home made again. The beam itself is from a Vi 47 that I'd robbed the guts from. The rest is plasticard and tubeing.

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Maybe a bit rough and ready, but it's hardly visible from normal viewing angles. I still need to repaint the front into the full yellow and renumber it. Just realised I slipped with the silver pen too. And I will be cleaning the wheels before it goes back on the rails :O

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  • 4 weeks later...

Done some kit building this time. Seeing as Silent Hill is supposed to be a cross London line, I thought a Thames Link 319 would be needed-in NSE livery of course! The kit was purchased from Bratchell, and though rather expensive for what it is, the kits fit together well and are quite easy.

 

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The kit as it comes, and the donor motor/chassis next to it. I believe the kit is designed for a Black Beetle, but I prefer the all wheel drive Bachmann units, even if they are a little intrusive into the passenger compartment.

 

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All the parts slot together, with a little plastic cement on the inside of the joints, they went together well. A dry run is recommended, and is advisable as one of the cars needs a small mod before final assembly

 

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This was done in an evening!

 

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Next up was the bogies. I bought the wheel and bearing kit to go with it. First time I'd built anything like this (the Wessex was based on RTR kit), so I thought a good idea to build as Bratchell intended, apart from the motor.

 

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The assembled item. A nice little unit, if not as 'open' as some of the RTR stuff. Like the bodies, they have a sort of tab and groove set up, so you can't really get them wrong.

 

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One of the assembled cars

 

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Now to making it move. Bachmann 158 chassis, with class 66 drive shafts. They're almost the right length, but I ended up having to lengthen one by 2mm

 

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The trick is to get the UJ's lined up, or it'll rattle it's head off, as I found with a previous conversion.

 

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I cut the Bachmann chassis into 3 parts, using the bogie mounts as intended. I had to narrow the metal chassis to fit into the cut out Bratchell frames.

 

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Resting on it's bogies. Was quite lucky really, got the ride height spot on first time

 

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The set up in full (but before I altered the drive shaft). The original motor mount is bonded to the Bratchell floor, makes it nice and solid. Without the body attatched, the floor really bows.

 

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Driving car with the windows fitted. They're almost press fit, so a small dab of liquid poly secured them. Left the body up-side-down without the floor, so the fumes could escape and not cloud the windows

 

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Coupling method. Don't know if they're at the correct height, but it doesn't really matter, as nothing else will be coupling up to it.

 

Need to take a few more finished photos as it is now with a pantograph. Just a Hornby one, but cut about a bit.

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  • 11 months later...

Wow, nearly a year since last update. Been doing things, but never get round to uploading pictures of it... Anyway, thought I'd share some of my latest projects. Beware, the camera is very, very cruel. The wonky bits all look straight in reality! Honest!

 

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47382 Fiona in RfCoal livery, allocated to Stewarts Lane depot for running local coal workings. EH? Ok, I wanted to do something different. A few years ago I saw a loco that had been named after the builders wife. A nice gesture I thought, my wife however wasn't so convinced but humoured me anyway. Seeing as it was going to be a fictional name, I invented a fictional history for it too. I think it came out ok, and confuses the heck out of anyone who knows their 47s :jester:

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The plates were from the 'Bay. Originally red, but the vendor very kindly changed them to black for me as it fitted in better with the coal livery

 

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Next up, I finally finished the painting on my DVT conversion (and renumber) so it fits in better with the 1990ish theme I'm going for. I'm still after an aerosol colour that matches the lower white if anyone knows

 

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Eventually will have Port Of Tilbury nameplates, and have just bought a new chassis for it so it will be getting proper power soon. I still think with a bit of detail the older Lima stuff can look quite good. Apart from the awful motors, the biggest problem in my eyes is the toy like yellow colour on the front. So some wire hand rails and a better colour really helps them IMHO

 

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The current project, a Hornby DVT. Bought from eBay cheap, it looks like the paint had been put on with a stick, it took 3 coats of Model Strip to get shot of it. Now I got a nice base to repaint into Swallow colours (if I can ever find the right shade of white!)

 

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The moulding is very fine, and thin, especially round the lower window edge as I found out. It's not too bad as it'll be covered by the lower window spoiler.

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