Havenhouse - the reboot

[ChrisN]

Hmm, no. I can't do much tonight because I don't want to wake the guests up, but I'll have a look in the morning. I'm going to use Hornby wheels on the test as that's all I have without cannibalizing something.

 

Still no post. I've not heard that Canada Post are on strike, so I'm assuming everything is being delivered via the Yukon.

 

On the frosted glass. I was thinking of printing onto paper, then sanding it down as thinly as possible. Glueing it face down onto some clear plastic and seeing how much of a mess I make. An alternative will be to print back to front onto a decal, then facing the back with white tracing paper. That's down the line though.

 

Jason,

Frosted Glass- sorry a bit late, only just caught up.

 

The ratio station kit suggests that you dip clear plasticard into cellulose thinners for about 30 seconds and then dry with a hair dryer.  The effects are quite good

[Rail-Online]

My uncle who was loading and unloading in the '60's told me a couple of days ago that the goods shed wasn't in use towards the end of freight on the line, and that all the agricultural produce was loaded either lineside or on the ramp beside the Boston platform. As a result, it seems that almost nobody knows what the loading side of the goods shed looks like. As this will be away from the viewing side I'm going to leave it until I can find out a bit more about it.

 

In the meantime I've been on Ebay again and bought this LNER shipment label that was used in the yard into BR times. Unfortunately I don't know whether the label was put on the side of the waggon or the produce itself. The potatoes to be loaded in Wainfleet were destined for Somerstown near King's Cross.

 

potato-label.JPG

I believe these were usually put on the solebar in the spring clip provided. Occasionally they were pinned/nailed on the wagon side

Tony

[steadtheimp]

You layout is looking good JCL, hoping to get my own layout under way soon, hopefully get my boards within the next month or so then I can get things going, mine is going to be based on Lincoln St Marks as I think it would of been if central had closed and tracks changed to come into St Marks instead hope you mite have a look and let me no what you think.

 

Bye for now 

 

Adam

[JCL]

Hi everyone, thanks for the messages while I've been over on the cutter thread. I've one more tutorial to put up concerning a "dare" MikeTrice gave me. It pretty much worked out, so watch out for that.

 

In the meantime I'm back on the Barnum plugging away at the carriage ends. Nice idea about the opaque glass Chris, I might try each of the suggestions and see which looks the best. Ideally I'm going to try to incorporate the engraving on the actual coach.

 

Tony, that's good to know as my uncle couldn't remember where they went! Thanks for reading through and posting up. He'll be dead chuffed.

 

Adam, the hardest bit is starting, so it'll be really interesting to see how you get on in your thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66209-lincoln-st-marks-re-work-oo-gauge-layout-project/page-2 I'll have a proper read through later

[JCL]

I'm sure this is only interesting to me, but these are the ends of the Barnum carriage. Because of the vestibule area I'll be putting in two end pieces on each end as it were. The ends will be .010" card laminated as four sheets. The bottom row shows the outer end. I'll make the buffer beam separate on the outer layer, but it will be incorporated into each of the other layers for strength.

 

The top four designs show the inner end of the carriage. There is a cut out section .040" deep in the bottom so that the ends slot over the floor of the coach.

 

As I'm looking at this, I'm going to put a score line in on the outside layer of the inner end that is the shape of the outer end. This will help me when I'm lining things up.

 

 

All this talk of inner end and outer layer of inner end and inner layer of outer end. I think it's time for a cuppa.

[JCL]

I've also made a change to the bogies and added a tab in the top plate (insert correct name here) so that it will fit the notch into the bogie bolsters.

 

[MikeTrice]

I am really looking forward to seeing this cut and laminated.

[JCL]

Finally, and I realise I'm double and triple posting, finally, here's an overview of my workspace at the moment. I'm not bothered about the size and orientation of the page right now. So Mk1 bogies and ends are done. I have to separate out the sides and floor next. Unless anyone tells me that I shouldn't, I will to use .040" for the floor, so I'll probably cut that by hand after scoring the size. I think there may be a fair amount of fettling going on. The rest of it will be layers of .010".

 

[JCL]

I am really looking forward to seeing this cut and laminated.

 

Cheers Mike

 

I'm going to put the bogies together first as Jim's bearings have arrived. I'm going to wait on the sides until Andy G (of coach bodging fame) received his scriber. If it turns out that this scriber is better than the blade then I'll do the matchboarding with that.

 

I must say I'm a bit nervous about the thing, but slowly forging ahead.

[Alister_G]

I must say I'm a bit nervous about the thing, but slowly forging ahead.

 

Nervous! :nono: :no:

 

Now look, you need to take a deep breath...

 

You've already tripled sales of the Silhouette Cutter, thanks to your thread   (And, joking apart, you've introduced us to a revolutionary new method of modelling which is, simply, tremendous).

 

If this doesn't work, then you've wasted the price of a couple of sheets of plasticard, and probably will learn something from why it didn't work anyway!

 

You absolutely must not feel pressured into producing yet another stunning model, just because you've already done so more than once

 

 

So, to sum up... Stop blathering and get on with it!!

 

:D

 

 

 

 

 

PS. Nice work mate!

[uax6]

Question Jason: What are you going to use for the gangway connections? Are you going to make your own up? The reason I ask is that end door. I would actually leave it out as unless your gangway is going to have an open end you just won't see it. Even if you use the Ratio ones, if you 'spring' them like I did in my bodging thread, you need to have the ends covered so that they don't get hooked up!

 

BTW I am using two layers of 20thou for my floor. The top layer the correct width to go inside the sides, the lower layer the right width to go inside the solebars. The lower layer had the centre line scored on it, along with marks for batterybox, dynamo, brake cylinder and truss rod locations. The most important locations marked are the bogie pivots!

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Nervous! :nono: :no:

 

Now look, you need to take a deep breath...

 

You've already tripled sales of the Silhouette Cutter, thanks to your thread   (And, joking apart, you've introduced us to a revolutionary new method of modelling which is, simply, tremendous).

 

If this doesn't work, then you've wasted the price of a couple of sheets of plasticard, and probably will learn something from why it didn't work anyway!

 

You absolutely must not feel pressured into producing yet another stunning model, just because you've already done so more than once

 

 

So, to sum up... Stop blathering and get on with it!!

 

:D

 

PS. Nice work mate!

Ooer! After that telling off I set to and cut out the first bogie. The bearing holes are 2.00mm, the bearings are 2.04mm. You wouldn't think the .04mm would make that much difference, but it's enough. Instead of recutting I'll just put a round file in there and give it a turn, send I'll change the next set. They look cool though! I'll look at them again in the morning and post a photo.

 

I've not thought about connectors yet Andy. At the moment I've got as far as the cowl that the connectors will fit on to. I'll have a good look at bodge corner.

 

I was going to do something similar with the floor. Or at least I think I was. I'm going to score them and do a lighter score to show where to drill the holes for the bogie pivots.

[MikeTrice]

They look cool though! I'll look at them again in the morning and post a photo.

You tease!

[uax6]

Jason for the bearings the trick is this: Drill your hole 2mm, and then wet it with solvent and push in your bearing. The solvent will soften the edge of the plastic and allow the bearing to slide in, and it will also grip the bearing so it doesn't fall out.

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Well that's just great! I hadn't thought about that.

[JCL]

Here you go! Two bogie side frames, and not too painful in the end. They were a combination of Mike's w-iron trials, Andy's weld thought, and Al's kick up the backside. There are a few more cosmetic bits and pieces to add, but I'm pleased with how they came out. I think that having four bearings means that there's very little chance of skewing the layers. They've also turned out to be absolutely flat!

 

With regards to the rivets, I thought that, at that size, it probably wouldn't make much difference if they jutted out or if I represented them with holes. To me it looks just as good. If I were really bothered I'd open them out and stick some v thin rod in there.

 

Things I did wrong were as follows:

 

- Making the struts joining the two sides together symmetrical, and so not remembering which was the front and which the back.

- Trying to force the plastic over the bearings.

 

I've some L shaped styrene on its way, so I'll use that to make sure the sides are perpendicular to the top when it's all glued together. I'm also going to use two sheets of .020" for the top ad I don't want it bending. I'll remember to put holes in one of the sheets.

 

 

Anyway, I'm chuffed. I'll make a couple of changes to the cut file and upload it.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[Jaz]

I agree wit htthe earlier comment, not every piece of work has to turn out as a master piece, as long as you learn and move on. Sometimes - especially on computers - small mathematical errors can kill the final product...not a problem. The process is still important. Love the thread. 

[JCL]

Cheers Jaz.

 

Here's the file that I created in svg and dxf formats. You should be able to import the dxf format into Silhouette Studio without changes. I'll have a go to see if I can add any more detail with Mk3, but I'm pretty pleased with these.

 

• fox style bogie mk2.dxf
• fox style bogie mk2.svg

 

 

cheers

 

Jason

Edited January 15, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

Here we go, one bogie. I'm going to file the burrs, add a couple of pieces of strip and I'm done. I'm very pleased that all four tyres touch the rails

 

In the end I cut the top from two sheets of .020" as per Ron's instructions in the cutter thread and they've come out well. I didn't used any L brackets in the end, but it seems very stiff without it.

 

The wheels are standard Hornby 4 hole coach wheels.

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

Have you seen this pic?

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/26286-suburban-coach-with-fox-patent-bogie/

 

Mike.

[uax6]

Fox type bogies were (I belive) a patent product of the Leeds Forge Company, they were widely used across the Uk.

 

Jasons bogies are looking really good. How about putting some Archers transfer rivets on it? I'm going to try both the plastic rod and the archers rivets on my coach underframe.

 

Who fancys drawing up some Midland pressed steel 4 and 6 wheel bogies??

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Who fancys drawing up some Midland pressed steel 4 and 6 wheel bogies??

 

Andy G

 

Hahaha. Tell you what, if you can hang on until I've done the Barnum and you can supply a plan I'll sort them out for you.

 

I did think about the plastic rod, but there are so many in such a small space that I didn't want to weaken the sides. Almost done the bracing a middle strip, and a representation of the weights then I'm done. I'll put up a picture in a bit.

[MikeTrice]

Things I did wrong were as follows:

 

- Making the struts joining the two sides together symmetrical, and so not remembering which was the front and which the back.

Now you know why I put the small "pips" on my cuttings to act as registration marks. Putting them off centre works best then there is no doubt about which way round, or up, the lamination goes.

[JCL]

Absolutely Mike. I wish I hadn't missed them first time around.

[MikeTrice]

Even if the laminations are symetrically identical they don't actually cut symetrically identically so I find they make a considerable difference and would not go without them now.