Wright writes.....

[andytrains]

I use clock oil, (Microtime) for most things and a thicker oil (Archer), for gears.

Eileens Emporium used to do a range of oils, but they have gone.

[MJI]

Some advice please. Restarted my wagon detailing.

 

Still waiting on some Parkside lms chassis.

 

Anyway i am putting VB and 10ft conversions on some kits.

 

Using Dart MJT w irons as solebars are integral to body.

 

I would like to use brass or ns wire for the tie bars, who does flat narrow thin strip please?

 

As all my previous conversions have been clasp or plastic, not sure.

[31A]

11 minutes ago, MJI said:

I would like to use brass or ns wire for the tie bars, who does flat narrow thin strip please?

 

Try Hobby Holidays:

 

https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=67&pg=2

 

I should think A61 0.8mm x 0.2mm would be about right for wagon tiebars.

 

[Steamport Southport]

20 minutes ago, MJI said:

Some advice please. Restarted my wagon detailing.

 

Still waiting on some Parkside lms chassis.

 

Anyway i am putting VB and 10ft conversions on some kits.

 

Using Dart MJT w irons as solebars are integral to body.

 

I would like to use brass or ns wire for the tie bars, who does flat narrow thin strip please?

 

As all my previous conversions have been clasp or plastic, not sure.

 

Cambrian do etched tiebars.

 

https://www.cambrianmodelrail.co.uk/store/Etched-Tie-Bars-c25693290

 

 

Jason

[coronach]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning,

 

Since most of my stock runs in brass pin-point bearings, lubrication is only necessary in small amounts (though regular lubrication is an absolute necessity if RTR plastic bogies are retained; otherwise the bearing holes travel 'northwards' over time and the coach's floor pan eventually catches on the wheels' flanges! I was surprised at this at first, until I noticed that the original wheels' pint-point ends weren't perfectly-machined. Thus, I substitute Jackson/Romford 14mm discs - I bought loads and loads of these years ago. Not only that, it removes dodgy back-to-backs and wobbly wheels, though more-recent RTR wheels have been much better than in the past). 

 

Oil? I buy it in a sort of 'syringe' dispenser (though it's not a sharp point) from Hobby Holidays or Squires. It isn't labelled. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

Thank you Tony

[Nicktoix]

20 hours ago, Barry O said:

Notice you have some transfers for @Nicktoix old model of Windermere. The unloading point for the Elterwater gun powder  wagons was next door to the engine shed ash pit.

 

Baz

And tha wagons horse drawn from Langdale with wheels and horse shoes wrapped in sacking.

Different kind of 'elf and safety

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, dibateg said:

I can't quite make 50 years seperation in models of the same class, but I can do about 30! 90674 was built as a one off in the '90s, long before I moved from 4mm to 7mm scale. 90437 was built in 2017 . Oakville and JLTRT kits respectively - although the Oakville one has had two rebuilds..

Good evening Tony,

 

I remember photographing 90674 on Woden Road all those years ago. Impressive then and still impressive.

 

I've rummaged through my pictures of locos I've built over the last near-50 years, and found a V2 from each decade. Here they are.......

 

 

A Jamieson one from the mid-/late-'70s, running on Stoke Summit in the mid-'90s. All my work.

 

I'd built a previous Jamieson V2 in 1974, and an earlier Nu-Cast one in 1975, but don't have pictures of those; they were given away. 

 

 

A Nu-Cast V2 from the '80s, again running on Stoke Summit not long after the layout started on the exhibition circuit. All my work.

 

 

I built this one at the end of the last century from a Crownline kit, which Ian Rathbone painted. 

 

 

Another Jamieson kit, built in the noughties, painted by Ian Rathbone. 

 

 

And another Nu-Cast V2 from the late-teens of this century, this one painted by Geoff Haynes. 

 

 

And just into the '20s, a 3d-printed body by Mike Trice on Comet frames, towing a South Eastern Finecast tender. Another one painted by Geoff Haynes.

 

What do these show? Consistency or (apart from the painting) no development in my modelling 'skills' over the last near-half century? 

 

Will I live long enough to build a V2 into the '30s? I've got three more kits!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[MikeCW]

Hello Tony

 

In an earlier post you asked for examples of tatty RTR models which had been brought back to life.  I can’t help you there I’m afraid. My RTR models have been through a kind of reverse process: starting in pristine condition and then “devalued” with some extra details, weathering, coal, crew and fire irons. (I must confess that I am less virtuous than I should be in the matter of train indication lamps.)

 

But I can’t seem to pass up the chance of rebuilding a poorly assembled and/or non-running kit-built engine if it is cheap and if it fits within my layout time-frame. Sometimes this isn’t all that cost-effective if new motor, gearbox, wheels and other parts are required. Furthermore, it often takes me longer to carry out a rebuild than to assemble a new kit, particularly if I have to dunk an epoxy-glued engine and tender in paint stripper to reduce them to a collection of white-metal parts, some of which may need repair or replacement or may even have been mutilated by the original builder. But there is immense satisfaction to be had from a successful rebuild.

 

I bought this M&L “Coal Engine” on the local internet auction site a few years ago.

 

It was a non-runner for three reasons that I could establish. The worm wasn’t anywhere near centred over the gear wheel – in fact they barely touched; the motor wasn’t getting a steady supply of power; and even out of the chassis and with power leads applied directly to the brushes, the K’s motor ran erratically - not uncommon I believe.

 

On further investigation I discovered that the brass bearings on the “live” side of the chassis had been held in place with some form of epoxy resin.  How could power get from the wheel rim, to the axle, through the bearings and to the frame through a barrier of Araldite? I felt sorry for the original builder. He or she must have had a frustrating and ultimately disappointing experience.

 

I reduced the whole ensemble to a kit of parts and started assembly afresh, with a new motor and gear cradle from my own store.

The cognoscenti on this thread will note that the engine had incorrect wheels, generic Romfords rather than the distinctive Crewe “H” spoke types. I used the original wheels to test the rebuilt chassis until I had sufficient of the correct pattern available.  You may be able to make out in the following photo that "H" spoke wheels are fitted on the other side of the chassis.  Rather than order new (and expensive) wheels I turned the flanges off some old uninsulated "H" spoke Mazak Romfords and pressed on the tyres recovered from the wheels originally fitted to the Coal Engine. 

 

I could take a thousand or more words to tell the full story but, in summary, this rebuild took a long time and, eventually, the job was done. 

I dispensed with wiper pick-ups and used the "American" system by breaking the insulation on the plastic-centred tender wheels on one side.  In the photos below 28091 is almost complete (red buffer beams, coal, crew and couplings needed)  but is plodding satisfactorily around the layout. Perhaps my greatest achievement was getting the numbers on the cabside aligned.

 

Mike

 

 

Edited September 18, 2023 by MikeCW

[Chas Levin]

On 11/09/2023 at 18:12, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Chas,

 

There might well be Genesis Warwell kit when I go over to Market Rasen next week.

 

If there is, I'll let you know. In fact, I'll prepare lists of everything. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Good morning Tony, I meant to reply to this sooner and to your later post that there hadn't in fact been the quantity of Genesis kits you'd hoped for when you visited Market Rasen.

By a welcome coincidence, I found an unstarted Warwell kit on Ebay, from a seller who'd been selling them - and some unstarted Warflats - in lots of 4 and 5, but who kindly agreed to relist a single Warwell for me to buy.

He still has some listed if anyone else is looking, under the username of mrpickles225 - usual disclaimer, no connection, and if you're reading this mrpickles225, hope you don't mind me posting this here!

[Tony Wright]

7 minutes ago, Chas Levin said:

 

Good morning Tony, I meant to reply to this sooner and to your later post that there hadn't in fact been the quantity of Genesis kits you'd hoped for when you visited Market Rasen.

By a welcome coincidence, I found an unstarted Warwell kit on Ebay, from a seller who'd been selling them - and some unstarted Warflats - in lots of 4 and 5, but who kindly agreed to relist a single Warwell for me to buy.

He still has some listed if anyone else is looking, under the username of mrpickles225 - usual disclaimer, no connection, and if you're reading this mrpickles225, hope you don't mind me posting this here!

Thanks Chas,

 

I didn't actually go to Market Rasen (the putative visit was scheduled for today) because there'd be no point.

 

Elaine Harvey (of Elaine's Trains) went over a week ago and offered a fair price for what there was. What there wasn't was any number of Genesis kits, just some odd castings in shoe boxes, plus some casting tools. She also bought the locos which once belonged to the deceased proprietor, but these were nothing particularly special. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

6 hours ago, MikeCW said:

Hello Tony

 

In an earlier post you asked for examples of tatty RTR models which had been brought back to life.  I can’t help you there I’m afraid. My RTR models have been through a kind of reverse process: starting in pristine condition and then “devalued” with some extra details, weathering, coal, crew and fire irons. (I must confess that I am less virtuous than I should be in the matter of train indication lamps.)

 

But I can’t seem to pass up the chance of rebuilding a poorly assembled and/or non-running kit-built engine if it is cheap and if it fits within my layout time-frame. Sometimes this isn’t all that cost-effective if new motor, gearbox, wheels and other parts are required. Furthermore, it often takes me longer to carry out a rebuild than to assemble a new kit, particularly if I have to dunk an epoxy-glued engine and tender in paint stripper to reduce them to a collection of white-metal parts, some of which may need repair or replacement or may even have been mutilated by the original builder. But there is immense satisfaction to be had from a successful rebuild.

 

I bought this M&L “Coal Engine” on the local internet auction site a few years ago.

 

It was a non-runner for three reasons that I could establish. The worm wasn’t anywhere near centred over the gear wheel – in fact they barely touched; the motor wasn’t getting a steady supply of power; and even out of the chassis and with power leads applied directly to the brushes, the K’s motor ran erratically - not uncommon I believe.

 

On further investigation I discovered that the brass bearings on the “live” side of the chassis had been held in place with some form of epoxy resin.  How could power get from the wheel rim, to the axle, through the bearings and to the frame through a barrier of Araldite? I felt sorry for the original builder. He or she must have had a frustrating and ultimately disappointing experience.

 

I reduced the whole ensemble to a kit of parts and started assembly afresh, with a new motor and gear cradle from my own store.

The cognoscenti on this thread will note that the engine had incorrect wheels, generic Romfords rather than the distinctive Crewe “H” spoke types. I used the original wheels to test the rebuilt chassis until I had sufficient of the correct pattern available.  You may be able to make out in the following photo that "H" spoke wheels are fitted on the other side of the chassis.  Rather than order new (and expensive) wheels I turned the flanges off some old uninsulated "H" spoke Mazak Romfords and pressed on the tyres recovered from the wheels originally fitted to the Coal Engine. 

 

I could take a thousand or more words to tell the full story but, in summary, this rebuild took a long time and, eventually, the job was done. 

I dispensed with wiper pick-ups and used the "American" system by breaking the insulation on the plastic-centred tender wheels on one side.  In the photos below 28091 is almost complete (red buffer beams, coal, crew and couplings needed)  but is plodding satisfactorily around the layout. Perhaps my greatest achievement was getting the numbers on the cabside aligned.

 

Mike

 

 

This is terrific work Mike,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

What it illustrates perfectly to me is how high the number must be of loco kits (in particular) which someone has started, yet failed 'dismally' in ever completing to satisfaction; that is a loco which looks like the prototype it represents and, more important in many ways, actually runs well. There must be thousands of such 'basket cases' lying around in dusty/mouldering boxes, most never seeing the light of day ever again. 

 

In my view the main reasons are poor kits at source coupled with an 'aspiration over ability' on the part of the builders. Though I hope I don't fit into the second category, as far as the likes of K's kits are concerned, I've never been able to use their wheels (except as scrap loads in wagons!) nor ever get their motors to work satisfactorily (except as smoke-generating units!). 

 

Last Friday, my old friend Bob Treacher (ex of EAMES of Reading and Alton Models) popped over with his wife to see us. Bob was a great help in my 'earlier modelling days' (how nice, all those years ago to have a bloke the other side of a counter who actually knew about the products he was selling). We spoke about Jamieson kits (the second stage in scratch-building) and of some 'dinosaurs' from the past. Extinct species such as MTK kits, Magna Models kits, Jidenco kits and WSM kits, all of which he would have sold. All of which very difficult to build, though Jamieson ones were marvellous 'learning aids'!

 

I have examples of Magna Models and WSM kits which still run, and plenty of Jamieson ones (though I've never built an MTK kit or a Jidenco kit to my satisfaction). Does anyone else have examples?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited September 18, 2023 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Barclay]

On 09/09/2023 at 12:30, john new said:

Please disregard my painting on this NE van, for example the freehand painted N is clearly a bit off. It was done quickly during a demo stand slot attempting to show that you can push the PVA/watercolour weathering option to cover an original finish. (Hornby's Birds Eye) I am not satisfied with the outcome as it was too rushed on the day and not well packed on the way home. I intend to redo it (hence this post) in the hope the vast knowledge of the LNER modellers who read and post in this thread can answer a livery question.

 

I understand that although the chassis they fitted is completely wrong this Hornby van body also sometimes issued as a Kit Kat van is based on a Hull & Barnsley prototype that was built in two versions - as either a refrigerated version or just a ventilated van. Which version of the body have Hornby modelled? Should it have been grey with white lettering as I have tried to do ( the ordinary van) or white with black lettering (refrigerated)? Does it need any revised roof or end vents? I can’t remember now where I read the note about it being ex-H&B or find a drawing of the prototype to check it.

 

 

This second image is to show the technique can be used to create subtle quite well, although I still need to add some grime to the underframe. This winter's target job is to replace the t/ls with Spratt and Winkles.

 

 

 

Hi John I built mine as a fitted ventilated van, it seems a reasonable model of one of these. New roof vents, and everything from solebars down of course!

 

[BMacdermott]

Hello Tony and everyone

 

I have Bachmann's V2 No.60860 Durham School in lined black livery with early emblem.

 

Could anyone tell me if she ran as this during mid-1959? This is the time-frame in which I run my layout when it is in 'Hitchin mode'.

 

Many thanks

 

Brian

[Jol Wilkinson]

3 hours ago, MikeCW said:

Hello Tony

 

In an earlier post you asked for examples of tatty RTR models which had been brought back to life.  I can’t help you there I’m afraid. My RTR models have been through a kind of reverse process: starting in pristine condition and then “devalued” with some extra details, weathering, coal, crew and fire irons. (I must confess that I am less virtuous than I should be in the matter of train indication lamps.)

 

But I can’t seem to pass up the chance of rebuilding a poorly assembled and/or non-running kit-built engine if it is cheap and if it fits within my layout time-frame. Sometimes this isn’t all that cost-effective if new motor, gearbox, wheels and other parts are required. Furthermore, it often takes me longer to carry out a rebuild than to assemble a new kit, particularly if I have to dunk an epoxy-glued engine and tender in paint stripper to reduce them to a collection of white-metal parts, some of which may need repair or replacement or may even have been mutilated by the original builder. But there is immense satisfaction to be had from a successful rebuild.

 

I bought this M&L “Coal Engine” on the local internet auction site a few years ago.

 

It was a non-runner for three reasons that I could establish. The worm wasn’t anywhere near centred over the gear wheel – in fact they barely touched; the motor wasn’t getting a steady supply of power; and even out of the chassis and with power leads applied directly to the brushes, the K’s motor ran erratically - not uncommon I believe.

 

On further investigation I discovered that the brass bearings on the “live” side of the chassis had been held in place with some form of epoxy resin.  How could power get from the wheel rim, to the axle, through the bearings and to the frame through a barrier of Araldite? I felt sorry for the original builder. He or she must have had a frustrating and ultimately disappointing experience.

 

I reduced the whole ensemble to a kit of parts and started assembly afresh, with a new motor and gear cradle from my own store.

The cognoscenti on this thread will note that the engine had incorrect wheels, generic Romfords rather than the distinctive Crewe “H” spoke types. I used the original wheels to test the rebuilt chassis until I had sufficient of the correct pattern available.  You may be able to make out in the following photo that "H" spoke wheels are fitted on the other side of the chassis.  Rather than order new (and expensive) wheels I turned the flanges off some old uninsulated "H" spoke Mazak Romfords and pressed on the tyres recovered from the wheels originally fitted to the Coal Engine. 

 

I could take a thousand or more words to tell the full story but, in summary, this rebuild took a long time and, eventually, the job was done. 

I dispensed with wiper pick-ups and used the "American" system by breaking the insulation on the plastic-centred tender wheels on one side.  In the photos below 28091 is almost complete (red buffer beams, coal, crew and couplings needed)  but is plodding satisfactorily around the layout. Perhaps my greatest achievement was getting the numbers on the cabside aligned.

 

Mike

 

 

 

Another example of a LNWR Coal Engine from the M&L kit.

 

Built to 18.83mm gauge this one had several modifications. The splasher sides were too thick for P4 wheels (Alan Gibson), so I cut them out leaving just the splasher tops and fitted in thin brass segments for the sides. The chassis is scratchbuilt from a set of AG milled frames with a Mashima 1224 motor. The M&L tender was replaced by a Geo. Norton etched version. During LNWR days they weren't vacuum brake fitted (unlike the Coal Tanks) and used solely for goods traffic.

 

 

This was my third P4 loco build so I was quite pleased with the result. The kit is no longer available but LRM introduced an etched kit to fill the gap.

 

 

[Iain.d]

I have made steady progress with the Roxey Mouldings LSWR 3 carriage set I’m doing over the last couple of weeks. All the major soldering is done. On the brakes there were a fair few horizontal handrails on the sides at the guards end that needed a reasonable level of care to fit as most of the holes for them were etched well over size. And I was quite pleased at how I managed to get the end handrails curved to match the roof profile, only to then look at a photo and see the curve on the brakes was far more gentle! The composite is correct though, I did this one first and just assumed the brakes would be the same…

 

 

And the alarm gear end. I quite enjoy this sort of detailing work. The finesse of the Roxey etchings makes them such a pleasure to work with, well I think so.

 

 

The chassis' are also completed less the lamp irons on the buffer beams.

 

 

And a brake carriage body resting on its chassis. I’ve fitted the brake rigging as I believe it should be, I think the drawings in the instructions provided with my kits are for a different diagram brake.

 

 

Those who really know their LSWR carriages will see that I have assembled the chassis the wrong way round; the other side should have the two battery boxes and this side just one, and the dynamo might be at the wrong end.... So sad, too bad, that is how they’re staying as, yes, I got both brakes wrong!

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

 

Edited September 18, 2023 by Iain.d
add a word

[john new]

1 hour ago, Barclay said:

Hi John I built mine as a fitted ventilated van, it seems a reasonable model of one of these. New roof vents, and everything from solebars down of course!

 

Thanks, informative and a big help.

[jwealleans]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I've never built an MTK kit or a Jidenco kit to my satisfaction). Does anyone else have?

 

I've never tried a Jidenco loco kit - life's too short -  but if you approach these kits with an awareness of their shortcomings and aren't afraid to replace the dodgy bits you can make a decent model from them.

 

 

This is their 15 ton GC van.

 

 

6 wheel GC brake van

 

 

LNER Toad B.   You can see some of the alterations I had to make here.

 

 

GN fish van to the right.

 

 

GC matchboard vestibuled Composite.   This one was hard work as the corridor side needed a picture window replacing with two smaller ones.

 

I wouldn't even say they're the worst brass kits I've ever tackled, now I've built an Acorn BR Grain Hopper.  

[Steamport Southport]

7 minutes ago, john new said:

Thanks, informative and a big help.

 

51L/Wizard do different diagram versions of the H&B vans. But they also do items such as brake gear and axleboxes as separate parts. May be of use.

 

Wizard H&B vans

 

 

Jason

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, BMacdermott said:

Hello Tony and everyone

 

I have Bachmann's V2 No.60860 Durham School in lined black livery with early emblem.

 

Could anyone tell me if she ran as this during mid-1959? This is the time-frame in which I run my layout when it is in 'Hitchin mode'.

 

Many thanks

 

Brian

Good afternoon Brian,

 

According to my sources, Durham School was among the first V2s to be painted in BR green, in 1956 (she probably had the earlier emblem to start with). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Michael Edge]

I've built quite a few Jidenco kits over the years, I still run these two.

LNW 0-8-2T, running on Sharman wheels. This has been the resident gravity yard shunter on Cwmafon for many years and even survived a dive to the floor once.

The first Jidenco kit was this L&Y 0-6-0T, this runs on the MDHB system on Herculaneum Dock after fitting with DCC.

Another early Jidenco kit was the L&Y railmotor, I ran this for many years on various layers but eventually sold it.

Some Jidenco kits were re-scaled to 3mm, this Crab was built to TT gauge with Gibson wheels.

A much later (possibly Falcon Brass) kit was this Ivatt 2MT.

Not Jidenco, this is another M&L LNW Coal engine, Romford wheels on this one.

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

 

I've never tried a Jidenco loco kit - life's too short -  but if you approach these kits with an awareness of their shortcomings and aren't afraid to replace the dodgy bits you can make a decent model from them.

 

 

This is their 15 ton GC van.

 

 

6 wheel GC brake van

 

 

LNER Toad B.   You can see some of the alterations I had to make here.

 

 

GN fish van to the right.

 

 

GC matchboard vestibuled Composite.   This one was hard work as the corridor side needed a picture window replacing with two smaller ones.

 

I wouldn't even say they're the worst brass kits I've ever tackled, now I've built an Acorn BR Grain Hopper.  

 

I purchased one of those GCR carriages at a second hand stall at a very reasonable price a long time ago but I have never plucked up the courage to try to sort out its biggest problem, which is that the sides are mirror images and one side has the door handles at the LH side of the doors. I haven't looked at it in years so my memory could be faulty but I recall that one side is correct. I thought that if I ever see another one for sale at a good price, I could make one correct carriage from the two kits. Then one of the "Retford Mob" started drawing some in CAD with a view to producing some etches, so I even stopped looking for the cheap second kit.

 

Such a detail may not bother many people and your build (or builds as I will include the others) look really nice but once I knew it was wrong, I couldn't bring myself to "unsee" it.

 

I have built a few Jidenco models, including the GN Fish Van and the GCR 6 wheel brake van. They are not 100% accurate but they are, to quote the late Roy Jackson, better than the ones we haven't got.

 

I have told the tale of the Jidenco Claughton before and won't repeat it but we do have, between us (the builders of Narrow Road), the Claughton, a Coal Tank and a MR 800 Class 2-4-0 as completed locos from Jidenco kits.

[ScRSG]

Jidenco J88, it's ok and it was my first attempt at an etched kit (didn't know any better!)

 

 

As stated, better than the one I didn't have!

 

Chas

[Tony Wright]

May I congratulate all those who've made Jidenco kits successfully, and shown them on here?

 

Two Jidenco Claughtons (one original, one large boiler) finished my ever attempting anything like them again. Tony Gee, was the footplate a complete piece on your Claughton, with no cut-out to take wheels or mechanism of any kind? It was on the two I attempted building, before handing them back to the customer.

[Kirby Uncoupler]

I can think of two Jidenco kits, that I built for other people, roughly 30 years ago. One was a LSWR Beattie Well tank, the other was a SR W class 2-6-4T. Both were a challenge, even for a seasoned loco builder, lots of wraps formed things like the smokeboxes, you had to think ahead and make sure the final external wrap, had the join at the bottom, so it could be hidden. 

    The real Beattie Well Tanks had quite large diameter boilers, for a small loco (2-4-0 WT), and quite large driving wheels (originally for suburban passenger use), the result being the flanges were about an inch away from the boiler cladding on the real thing. There was the first problem, the customer wanted it in 'OO'. So after rolling all the etched layers, to make a sound boiler, I then had to carve out false recesses, to accommodate the 'OO' wheelsets. The SE Finecast kit was much easier.

     The really tricky part of the W 2-6-4T kit, were the steps (with foot sockets, to stop 4mm toes being chopped off), which sat either side, over the valve gear. There was just enough room in 'OO', I wouldn't fancy doing the same in EM or P4? Another trait common to both original Jidenco kits, were the instructions, which started off well detailed, then became briefer and briefer as the build progressed. They finished with the immortal lines "assemble brake gear." (full stop), and "assemble valve gear." (full stop) 

      I got the impression, the person test-building/proof building the first kits, had given up halfway through. I managed to avoid other Jidenco kits, and their re-packaged successors, although I was very tempted by their Class 50 diesel kit, before Lima came to the rescue, in those dark old days.

 

                                                                        Cheers, Brian.

 

                                                                                              

      

[Northmoor]

8 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I have examples of Magna Models and WSM kits which still run, and plenty of Jamieson ones (though I've never built an MTK kit or a Jidenco kit to my satisfaction). Does anyone else have examples?

 

A long-running thread on this subject, Tony:

Some impressive builds on show considering the source material, but I think the number of successful MTK builders is dwarfed by the numbers who've either been very disappointed or have opened the box occasionally, looked at the parts then put it away for a few more years.  I have mentioned previously on that thread, my Class 24 diesel where the roof section varies about threefold in thickness and is about 3mm longer on one edge than the other.