Jump to content
 

Please use M,M&M only for topics that do not fit within other forum areas. All topics posted here await admin team approval to ensure they don't belong elsewhere.

Wright writes.....


Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Plenty of those between Toton and Brent!

 

I don't let facts get in the way of prejudice.  Cheers, Robbie.

Edited by rjm
typo
  • Like 1
  • Funny 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, rjm said:

As the lucky buyer of the Garratt Tony sold a couple of days ago, I await its delivery by insured post with delighted seconds anticipation.  Not least because of Tony's superb photographic skills, I pondered for fully ten minutes seconds before making my purchase offer, simply enjoying the qualities of the model.

 

Some may know that I have photographed and enjoyed many Heljan Garratts, I love this class of engine for all its faults. What character, what weight and power, and what artistry and was required by crews for the 25-odd years they brought 1,000+ ton loose-coupled trains over the ex-Midland main line to  London!

 

The  K's model with matched Portescaps and suitable mechanisms will certainly weigh more than a Heljan, and nearly all the detail looks right to me. But one thing stood out in Tony's 3/4-side-on photo.

I have taken the liberty of editing this without permission with hope that it might be granted retrospectively. The error was in the background; buccolic sun-dappled fields with hedgerows?  And a Garratt? In the same picture?

 

I had to give it a proper LMS/Midland background, that is, mist, rain, and fog,,

 

Then added just what Tony abhors and dislikes, some steam and smoke. Mischevious, I admit.. Norman Soloman's track remains in all its beauty.

 

So here below an edited image derived from Tony;s suoerb original photo of BR 47975.

 

47975_garratt_BeyerGarratt_2abcs_r2080.jpg.33f5eabaa7efa7c9c02c81471f691ea3.jpg

 

Thankyou Tony.

 

 

My pleasure Robbie,

 

I don't mind what you've done to my Garratt picture. It certainly adds 'atmosphere'.

 

Regarding the posting of it; It's very well wrapped - in fact, one box inside another with loads of foam/bubble wrap (just as an aside with regard to the latter, never have that directly in contact with a model - always have a barrier of tissue paper - preferably non-acid - or paper towel, because whatever is in the 'bubbles', over time with leave a pattern in the paintwork).  

 

Just be careful when you un-wrap it because the bunker actually rotates (at least partly) and is held in place by gravity, as is the front end of the smokebox/boiler on the leading unit. I've wrapped it in a paper towel, held together with Sellotape, so it should stay together.

 

One purchaser reported a loose chimney (easily re-fixed) and another some loose coal, but (thankfully) everything is getting through unscathed in the main. 

 

Thanks once more for buying the Garratt, and thanks to all the others for buying the locos. Just a handful left now, as well as some kits (part-built or untouched), which I'll list later.

 

The bereaved family is astonished at how much the sale of Paul Bromige's carriages and locos have made. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 6
  • Friendly/supportive 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

My pleasure Robbie,

 

I don't mind what you've done to my Garratt picture. It certainly adds 'atmosphere'.

 

Regarding the posting of it; It's very well wrapped - in fact, one box inside another with loads of foam/bubble wrap (just as an aside with regard to the latter, never have that directly in contact with a model - always have a barrier of tissue paper - preferably non-acid - or paper towel, because whatever is in the 'bubbles', over time with leave a pattern in the paintwork).  

 

Just be careful when you un-wrap it because the bunker actually rotates (at least partly) and is held in place by gravity, as is the front end of the smokebox/boiler on the leading unit. I've wrapped it in a paper towel, held together with Sellotape, so it should stay together.

 

One purchaser reported a loose chimney (easily re-fixed) and another some loose coal, but (thankfully) everything is getting through unscathed in the main. 

 

Thanks once more for buying the Garratt, and thanks to all the others for buying the locos. Just a handful left now, as well as some kits (part-built or untouched), which I'll list later.

 

The bereaved family is astonished at how much the sale of Paul Bromige's carriages and locos have made. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Tony,

 

The Deeley tank arrived this morning, in good aesthetic condition - not run yet - despite being dropped through our letterbox!!

 

Considering that the box was clearly marked FRAGILE and sent Special Delivery, there was no excuse for this method of delivery.

 

Fortunately, the oversize box, packed with paper towel and bubble-wrap, defeated the best efforts of Royal Mail!

 

Thanks for the opportunity to purchase this little gem.

 

John Isherwood.

  • Friendly/supportive 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 09/01/2021 at 09:10, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Andy,

 

Please consider writing something. 

 

Without being disparaging to your photography, why not consider bringing the finished rake(s) over here when restrictions are lifted and we can photograph them on Little Bytham. Or, I could take pictures on your layout (in time). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

After Tony threw down the gauntlet above, I’m pleased to report that 16 months, several drafts and a visit to Little Bytham for photos later, my article is in the June edition of BRM. The digital edition is just out. I believe the paper version will hit the shops next week. I’m pleased with the result, although it was a shame that the CWN extracts and some of my chosen photos of the prototype trains couldn’t be included for copyright reasons. I’d welcome any comments the followers of this thread may have. Thanks to Tony and Robert Carroll for their help.

 

There’s an ECML theme this month so it makes a good read for many people on here.

 

Andy

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

Tony,

 

The Deeley tank arrived this morning, in good aesthetic condition - not run yet - despite being dropped through our letterbox!!

 

Considering that the box was clearly marked FRAGILE and sent Special Delivery, there was no excuse for this method of delivery.

 

Fortunately, the oversize box, packed with paper towel and bubble-wrap, defeated the best efforts of Royal Mail!

 

Thanks for the opportunity to purchase this little gem.

 

John Isherwood.

Thanks for letting me know John,

 

Maybe West Country posties are more 'cavalier' with regard to their delivery methods. Everything delivered here SD is handled with great care.

 

You must have a big letterbox!

 

Best regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

May I make a request, please?

 

Though I always mention that P&P (guaranteed delivery/insured) is £10.00 for a single loco and £20.00 for two (or a Beyer Garratt), as Mo and I have been checking the accounts this morning, it appears that three buyers have sent just the price of the loco (I'm not naming names). That said, may I please thank those who've included the postage payment in their settlements?

 

The minimum postage is £8.00, going up with weight (dependent on the size of the loco(s). One might say, 'Some I win, some I lose!'. I'm OK with that, but I'm not prepared to pay for the complete postage. By the time the cost of brown tape/Fragile tape and a four mile (eight return) journey to our nearest Post Office is factored in............................... I charge nothing for my time. 

 

I've met the postage costs, but may I ask those who've settled up without including the P&P please remember in future? 

  • Like 3
  • Friendly/supportive 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Maybe West Country posties are more 'cavalier' with regard to their delivery methods.

 

Hello Tony,

 

Little 41516 has arrived in the homeland of the prototype, carefully handed over by our regular postie this morning, only the driver having come loose thanks to your careful wrapping.

 

Certainly one of the nicer built versions I've seen, just needing a few touch-ups and only really missing the grime-covered 'LMS' on the tank sides that it carried until the end in 1955 (only the fireman's side repainted at Derby for the withdrawal photographs).  

 

 

On 11/05/2022 at 06:46, Tony Wright said:

(though nothing mechanically K's)

 

The plastic axle gear is! Perhaps one of the few usable drive parts from a K's kit ?

Edited by 41516
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Clem said:

Ah, Guy Mannering, the only English A1 to avoid my eyes back in the days. 

A few more evaded me Clem,

 

Though I last saw 60129 (sadly nameless) at its then home shed of 50A, out of use and probably withdrawn. ST MUNGO was still in steam, but BOSWELL, PEREGRINE, SILURIAN and others were waiting to be towed off for scrap. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

A few more evaded me Clem,

 

Though I last saw 60129 (sadly nameless) at its then home shed of 50A, out of use and probably withdrawn. ST MUNGO was still in steam, but BOSWELL, PEREGRINE, SILURIAN and others were waiting to be towed off for scrap. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hi Tony. Memories eh? The first time I visited Newark probably the summer of 1958 the first A1 I saw was 60116 Hal O' the Wynd - one which seemed to evade many of my friends at the time. I don't think I ever saw it again. I also saw the W1 60700 that day. It stopped at Northgate on a Northbound passenger. (Kings Cross-Doncaster?). Wouldn't it be great to go back in time for a day. 

  • Like 3
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently bought a new Hornby J36 in LNER livery & want to backdate it to NBR livery so first the current numbers, etc need to be removed. What is the "best" way to do this, please? Searching RMweb produced relatively few recommendations with several quite inconsistent & one saying that a complete repaint is necessary if one removes printed numbers from an RTR loco! However, many on this blog renumber their RTR locos so I am optimistic that it can be done relatively easily with due care.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I gently remove the old numbers with a fiberglass brush. Gloss varnish the panel and leave to dry then apply numbers using Microsol. Leave for at least 24 hrs then varnish with Micro Flat.

(Microscale do a range of solutions etc).

 

Edited by andytrains
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

T-Cut usually works for me.  Some printed markings can be more resistant than others (and Hornby ones seem to be more resistant than Bachmann ones), but usually just T-Cut on a cotton bud and keep rubbing until the markings gradually disappear.  If I don't seem to be getting anywhere with that, I sharpen the end of a wooden cocktail stick to a chisel shape, dunk that in the T-Cut and use it as a scraper.  No risk of scoring the plastic with a wooden tool.

  • Agree 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gently lightly sweep/caress across the decal with a new Swann Morton No 10 Curved  Blade.

 

I have used TCut a messy result in the past, and it turned Hornby LNER Garter Blue to a horrid  Green shade and it easily removes the backing paint as well, rub too hard and you will be through to the underlying plastic.

Edited by micklner
  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I use a slightly worn Stanley knife blade or curved scalpel.  Very gentle sideways strokes over the lettering will slowly wear it away, with less background degradation than a fibreglass pencil if you are careful.

 

T-cut also works but can leave a raised ‘shadow’ where the lettering was.

 

However you remove the lettering, as @andytrains says, a thin coat of gloss varnish can be used to smooth over any surface damage and improve decal adhesion, and I finish off with a thin layer of satincote over the replacement lettering after application, using a sable brush.  

Edited by Chamby
Clarification
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Lots of really good advice about removal of decals. Can I add my suggestion?

 

In recent months I have "discovered" that Microscale Micro Sol solution does a very good job on softening decals that can then be gently removed without the need for any abrasive. The solvent is designed to soften decals so that they conform to undulating surfaces such as rivet heads but is equally good at removing them too. Sometimes when you didn't intend to....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 4
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Chamby said:

I use a slightly worn Stanley knife blade or curved scalpel.  Very gentle sideways strokes over the lettering will slowly wear it away, with less background degradation than a fibreglass pencil if you are careful.

 

T-cut also works but can leave a raised ‘shadow’ where the lettering was.

 

However you remove the lettering, as @andytrains says, a thin coat of gloss varnish can be used to smooth over any surface damage and improve decal adhesion, and I finish off with a thin layer of satincote over the replacement lettering after application, using a sable brush.  

I would'nt recomend a Stanley Knife straight blade , they are too large for a confined space and the Blade point will score the plastic very easily unless its used  perfectly flat at all times. I would also recomend a brand new blade to be used at all times for removing printing letters/numbers.

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

Lots of really good advice about removal of decals. Can I add my suggestion?

 

In recent months I have "discovered" that Microscale Micro Sol solution does a very good job on softening decals that can then be gently removed without the need for any abrasive. The solvent is designed to soften decals so that they conform to undulating surfaces such as rivet heads but is equally good at removing them too. Sometimes when you didn't intend to....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

This enquiry relates to factory printed numbering /letters. I agree re use of the above method for waterslide decals, that have'nt been varnished already.

Edited by micklner
  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Gross lamps or no lamps?

 

Discuss...

A tough question.

 

In my case, as has been apparent, gross lamps rather than none at all; for a time. A time when 'biggy' ones were all that were available (in 4mm).

 

Not now, so the question should not arise today. Anything 'big' fitted to my locos in the past (for too long, I admit) has been replaced by the likes of ModelU or LMS lamps (the Springside LNER lamps aren't too bad, especially when weathered down).

 

So, 'no lamps'? No. 

 

There's a piece written by me with regard to lamps in the latest issue of BRM.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...