Wright writes.....

[Chas Levin]

2 minutes ago, Northmoor said:

I recall that motor racing teams sometimes start their weekends at the circuit by thoroughly cleaning and painting the floor of the garage with quick-dry paint.  It can save so much time finding that small circlip that pinged off over there somewhere, when you can just lie on the floor and look across it.

Lovely idea... for those with a team of eager young wannabee racing drivers on salary, but I don't think that would 'scale down' to the likes of us: who here fancies re-flooring the workshop / spare bedroom / den before each new project? 😁

I don't think my current room has had much done to it since some of the things I model could actually be seen running in prototype on the full sized railway...

[Barry Ten]

The best way to find something you've dropped on the floor is to drop something else and go looking for that instead. Works for me every time.

[Bucoops]

16 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

The best way to find something you've dropped on the floor is to drop something else and go looking for that instead. Works for me every time.

 

I find that simply attaching any small parts to a piece of lego makes anything findable within seconds.

[BMacdermott]

Hello everyone

 

I'm not sure if I have told this tale here before but it seems a good time...

 

Some years ago, I was servicing a Hornby County 4-6-0. The tender to loco coupler arrangement has a small spring inside. I guess from memory that the size is about 6mm long  by about 3mm diameter.

 

The spring 'pinged off into the atmosphere' never to be seen again...or so I thought!

 

A couple of days later, I was operating my layout and brought a freight train out of the hidden sidings (not actually 'hidden' but 'off stage').

 

As the train trundled past me I noticed something unusual...the spring had landed dead upright on a bogie bolster stanchion! 🙂

 

Brian

[Dunsignalling]

40 minutes ago, BMacdermott said:

Hello everyone

 

I'm not sure if I have told this tale here before but it seems a good time...

 

Some years ago, I was servicing a Hornby County 4-6-0. The tender to loco coupler arrangement has a small spring inside. I guess from memory that the size is about 6mm long  by about 3mm diameter.

 

The spring 'pinged off into the atmosphere' never to be seen again...or so I thought!

 

A couple of days later, I was operating my layout and brought a freight train out of the hidden sidings (not actually 'hidden' but 'off stage').

 

As the train trundled past me I noticed something unusual...the spring had landed dead upright on a bogie bolster stanchion! 🙂

 

Brian

Truly, the model railway equivalent of a hole-in-one.😃

[billbedford]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Bill,

 

So, was the 'wrong' resin used on that Refrigerator Van? Or, is it my clumsiness which caused the axle box/'W'-iron to break off when inserting the wheels?

 

Probably the wrong type of resin, but some feeling for the material is needed. You would try and force white metal in the same way you force brass, would you?

 

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

I have no idea what type of resin was used, but every model I've built using the material (some cast resin, some 3D-printed resin) has displayed the same characteristics - that of being extremely brittle and showing a susceptibility to crack/break. Of course, this could be down to my inherent clumsiness, and, I concede, it's probably not the medium for me; especially since every resin model I've built, I've managed to break in some way - your ex-GNR non-gangwayed Brake Third, three carriages/vans from Isinglass, two V2s from Graeme King, two V2s from Mike Trice, the Barnum and the Refrigerator Van.  That said, all have been relatively easily repaired and completed.

 

The problem with all resins, both for casting and printing, is that the 'standard' ones have an inert filler which makes them brittle. The cheaper the resin, the more filler there is the more brittle it is. 

 

All materials have an elastic limit, and it's useful to understand what the limit is, and how the material will fail. For instance hardened steel will break if you try and bend it, while brass wire will bend in such a way the it is difficult to restore it to it's original shape. Resins are similar, some will break, some will permanently bend and others will creep, ie take up a new shape under constant load. Choosing a resin that is not in the easily obtainable range is expensive, time consuming and not helped by the technical information being fairly opaque.

 

I have access to a range of about 30 resins, most of which I would never dream of using. They range from glass fill rigid, which is really good under compressive loads, to soft flexible (shoreA 50, if you are interested) similar to silicone. The resin I've used for the last 2-3 years has no filler and if a cured piece is bent past it's elastic limit the the bend will be permanent. Since starting to use this resin and with recent improvements in the printer and software I've been able print open brake lever guides and safety loops together with more or less scale handrails, though vertical ones are easier to print than horizontal ones. 

 

PS. With that refrigerator van, is it acceptable to have the brake in line with the axle guards? or have the maker just used an old Peco chassis as a pattern for casting from?

 

[gr.king]

I have an open mind on the matter of printed resin items. If the surface finish does not require extensive manual smoothing before application of paint (or the dodgy alternative of trying to bury the faults under filler-primer), if ALL of the things that are supposed to be dead-straight and square are definitely as they should be (which has not always been the case on printed items I've received) and if fine/slender bits don't snap off at the slightest provocation, then I don't have many objections.  That ShoreA 50 resin that Bill mentions above sounds like the right sort of stuff for printing corridor connectors, so long as it allows fine rendition of surface detail and accepts normal paints. Far more useful than rigid corridor connectors...

Edited August 1, 2022 by gr.king
Clarification

[nsl714]

A few months ago I shared a 7mm GWR Star that I had recently built. At the time it was unpainted, but now painting and lining have been completed. The engine is finished as 4019 'Knight Templar' in late 1930's condition.

 

 

 

 

-Zach

[polybear]

 

5 hours ago, billbedford said:

 

A few years ago Rails of Sheffield introduced a SECR goods van that was 3D printed. I believe a few thousand were produced. I have not noticed RMWeb being filled with complaints about bits of this model were any more likely to break or fall off than normal injection moulded RTR models. 

 

This leads me to believe that your attitude to resin should be up dated. 

 

In fairness that's a RTR item and not a kit that is being subjected to the various handling processes that are required during construction, so not a very fair comparison.

[Compound2632]

3 minutes ago, polybear said:

In fairness that's a RTR item and not a kit that is being subjected to the various handling processes that are required during construction, so not a very fair comparison.

 

Many 3D printed "kits" - including some of Bill's more recent ones - require very little work doing on them - almost just putting the wheels in!

[JamesSpooner]

On the matter of offerings to the great god carpet, I saw a short video clip recently of a jeweller at a workbench and he was wearing an apron, the bottom of which was attached to the workbench.  Obviously, it’s not a good idea to get up and walk away, but I guess it is a useful way of saving and recycling precious metals.  I was thinking that a Velcro base to an apron, with the other side of Velcro stuck to the workbench might reduce the offerings being made to the aforementioned great god…

 

Nigel

[gr.king]

I find that the tiniest items dropped on the floor, carpeted or otherwise, can almost always be found - but in most cases only a long time after you've stopped actively looking for them and either used, bought or made a replacement part. I am sure that this is fully consistent with a well known law.

[john new]

53 minutes ago, JamesSpooner said:

On the matter of offerings to the great god carpet, I saw a short video clip recently of a jeweller at a workbench and he was wearing an apron, the bottom of which was attached to the workbench.  Obviously, it’s not a good idea to get up and walk away, but I guess it is a useful way of saving and recycling precious metals.  I was thinking that a Velcro base to an apron, with the other side of Velcro stuck to the workbench might reduce the offerings being made to the aforementioned great god…

 

Nigel

I have also bought a magnetic catch tray from Halfords. It helps catch all parts when dismantling etc., and any of the small chassis screws which are iron or steel don't then bounce. This gives a secondary bonus over using something like a recycled plastic biscuits box or similar as a catch tray.

[Tony Wright]

Just a little snippet with regard to losing items......

 

As is well-known, I use Romford/Markits driving wheels. The 'usual' procedure for, say, a six-coupled is to buy three axles and six crankpins/retaining washers (along with six drivers, which are harder to lose). I learned long ago that at least one axle nut would twizzle into oblivion, as would one (or more) of the washers. So, years ago I bought such items in bulk - 50 axles, 100 washers, 75 crankpins and so on. I've done it several times. 

 

Would you believe that since adopting that practice, I hardly ever lose and axle nut, crankpin or washer? 

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, billbedford said:

 

Probably the wrong type of resin, but some feeling for the material is needed. You would try and force white metal in the same way you force brass, would you?

 

 

The problem with all resins, both for casting and printing, is that the 'standard' ones have an inert filler which makes them brittle. The cheaper the resin, the more filler there is the more brittle it is. 

 

All materials have an elastic limit, and it's useful to understand what the limit is, and how the material will fail. For instance hardened steel will break if you try and bend it, while brass wire will bend in such a way the it is difficult to restore it to it's original shape. Resins are similar, some will break, some will permanently bend and others will creep, ie take up a new shape under constant load. Choosing a resin that is not in the easily obtainable range is expensive, time consuming and not helped by the technical information being fairly opaque.

 

I have access to a range of about 30 resins, most of which I would never dream of using. They range from glass fill rigid, which is really good under compressive loads, to soft flexible (shoreA 50, if you are interested) similar to silicone. The resin I've used for the last 2-3 years has no filler and if a cured piece is bent past it's elastic limit the the bend will be permanent. Since starting to use this resin and with recent improvements in the printer and software I've been able print open brake lever guides and safety loops together with more or less scale handrails, though vertical ones are easier to print than horizontal ones. 

 

PS. With that refrigerator van, is it acceptable to have the brake in line with the axle guards? or have the maker just used an old Peco chassis as a pattern for casting from?

 

Good evening Bill,

 

'You would try and force white metal in the same way you force brass, would you?'

 

I don't fully understand your question. Do you mean, do I adopt different techniques when working in white metal or brass? If so, then the answer is yes. But, neither are as brittle as any resin I've worked on. I accept, because of my clumsiness, it's not the medium for me. 

 

'PS. With that refrigerator van, is it acceptable to have the brake in line with the axle guards? or have the maker just used an old Peco chassis as a pattern for casting from?'

 

In answer to your further questions; no, and I don't know, though the Refrigerator van is 3D-printed in resin, not cast.  

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited August 1, 2022 by Tony Wright
typo error

[Tony Wright]

Today saw the usual monthly visit from Geoff West.

 

And, as usual, he brought some really interesting models along..........

 

Most of the following were made/painted by John Houlden and are ex-Gamston. Geoff has detailed/weathered them further.

 

 

A DJH A1 in the form of 60145 SAINT MUNGO. 

 

It's passing an O4/6, built from a modified K's kit built/painted by Rob Kinsey and weathered by me. It's ex-Stoke/ex-Charwelton. 

 

 

A nearer view of the O4/6.

 

 

A PDK A2/1 representing New England's 60508 DUKE OF ROTHESAY. Originally built for Tom Foster, Geoff bought it when Tom changed era/region. 

 

 

A modified Hornby B1 with a Nu-Cast O2/2 passing. 

 

 

And, a nearer view of the O2/2.

 

 

Another look at the O2/2, this time with a Crownline V2 overtaking it. 

 

All these locos ran superbly, as expected.

 

As did this further pair.....

 

 

A Mallard/Blacksmiths D16/3 (builder/painter unknown).

 

This is the property of David Rae, who'll now been joining Geoff on our monthly LB running sessions (as well as George Stevenson). I've given David the correct-sized bogie wheels to replace the too-small ones on the 'Claud'. 

 

 

David also brought this ex-LT&SR 4-4-2T (Cotswold, we thing; again, builder/painter unknown). We weren't sure if this livery was correct, but it's very well-done. 

 

It's a wonderful privilege to have such dear friends visit, bring such interesting items and operate LB. 

 

Thanks Geoff (particularly with helping me to fix two wall cabinets in place - Mo is very pleased!) and thanks to you, David and George for making railway modelling such a friendly pastime.  

 

 

 

 

[Barry Ten]

4 hours ago, nsl714 said:

A few months ago I shared a 7mm GWR Star that I had recently built. At the time it was unpainted, but now painting and lining have been completed. The engine is finished as 4019 'Knight Templar' in late 1930's condition.

 

 

 

That's a great looking model, Zach. Nice to know there's an  outpost of the GWR developing in Indiana.

[Barry Ten]

Some plastics can be unhelpfully brittle as well. This Prestwin wagon, just peeking into view on the right, was built from the Dapol kit (the ex-Airfix/Kitmaster moulding). When I tried to prise apart the axleguards to remove a wheelset, one of the mouldings snapped in two, which would never happen with the equivalent Parkside or Ratio chassis. All was fixed in the end but it won't be possible to change the wheels in the future without a high chance of damage.

 

[billbedford]

4 hours ago, polybear said:

In fairness that's a RTR item and not a kit that is being subjected to the various handling processes that are required during construction, so not a very fair comparison.

 

Are you saying that the people who assemble RTR models are more skilled that yer average modeller?

[polybear]

7 hours ago, billbedford said:

 

Are you saying that the people who assemble RTR models are more skilled that yer average modeller?

 

Let's see now:

1.  For a particular model they've had the opportunity to find the best assembly sequence.

2.  It's likely that they're doing it day in, day out - so have had the opportunity to learn what manipulation a part can - and more importantly can't - withstand without damage.

3.  If the worst happens and a part breaks then they can reach into the parts bin containing 500 more and grab another one....whereas a modeller is left with an "oh sh*t, how can I fix that?" moment.

There's a start.

[Jesse Sim]

9 hours ago, billbedford said:

 

Are you saying that the people who assemble RTR models are more skilled that yer average modeller?

More the fact that 75% of people who buy RTR stuff don’t touch them after taking it out of the packet. 
 

But the rest of us would alter/weather etc

[dibateg]

22 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

Nice job Doug! 

I pinged an Alan Gibson buffer spring off onto a red background patterned carpet a few days ago and was likewise smiled upon by the floor gods: it only took me a mere 20 minutes to find it!

Its alright for you! I have lost a complete O gauge J11 backhead, that seems to have disappeared in to outer space...

 

I think it's going to be easier to give up looking and buy a new one....

 

Tony

[APOLLO]

13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Just a little snippet with regard to losing items......

 

As is well-known, I use Romford/Markits driving wheels. The 'usual' procedure for, say, a six-coupled is to buy three axles and six crankpins/retaining washers (along with six drivers, which are harder to lose). I learned long ago that at least one axle nut would twizzle into oblivion, as would one (or more) of the washers. So, years ago I bought such items in bulk - 50 axles, 100 washers, 75 crankpins and so on. I've done it several times. 

 

Would you believe that since adopting that practice, I hardly ever lose and axle nut, crankpin or washer? 

 

Sod's law in action !!!!

 

I once "lost" a 15" long O scale hopper car after a derailment in one of my tunnels. Fishing out the train the errant car was clear of the track and not noticed for a couple of months, found when track adjustments were made !!

 

Brit15

[Andy Hayter]

1 hour ago, Jesse Sim said:

More the fact that 75% of people who buy RTR stuff don’t touch them after taking it out of the packet. 
 

But the rest of us would alter/weather etc

 

And that ignores the 80% who never take them out of the packet.

[Bucoops]

19 hours ago, billbedford said:

 

Probably the wrong type of resin, but some feeling for the material is needed. You would try and force white metal in the same way you force brass, would you?

 

 

The problem with all resins, both for casting and printing, is that the 'standard' ones have an inert filler which makes them brittle. The cheaper the resin, the more filler there is the more brittle it is. 

 

All materials have an elastic limit, and it's useful to understand what the limit is, and how the material will fail. For instance hardened steel will break if you try and bend it, while brass wire will bend in such a way the it is difficult to restore it to it's original shape. Resins are similar, some will break, some will permanently bend and others will creep, ie take up a new shape under constant load. Choosing a resin that is not in the easily obtainable range is expensive, time consuming and not helped by the technical information being fairly opaque.

 

I have access to a range of about 30 resins, most of which I would never dream of using. They range from glass fill rigid, which is really good under compressive loads, to soft flexible (shoreA 50, if you are interested) similar to silicone. The resin I've used for the last 2-3 years has no filler and if a cured piece is bent past it's elastic limit the the bend will be permanent. Since starting to use this resin and with recent improvements in the printer and software I've been able print open brake lever guides and safety loops together with more or less scale handrails, though vertical ones are easier to print than horizontal ones. 

 

PS. With that refrigerator van, is it acceptable to have the brake in line with the axle guards? or have the maker just used an old Peco chassis as a pattern for casting from?

 

 

Bill knows my prejudices with resins :)

 

I am slowly coming round though - this is the underframe detail for an ex-GE vehicle.

 

When I saw the truss rods and other fine detail I instantly started thinking about replacing with brass - but when I had a poke at it I was pleasantly surprised at its strength. I don't suppose it would survive a full blown collision and derailment but then neither could the original.

 

 

I'm still not totally convinced but getting there...