RMweb Premium Baldyoldgit Posted September 29, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 29, 2017 I imagine that even real experts sit in armchairs from time to time, Larry. Andrew's expertise goes way, way beyond the comfort of an armchair, as illustrations of his modelling on this thread clearly show. I rate him among the top contemporary builders in 4mm, especially as he weathers everything he makes, giving it the most natural, realistic appearance. To be fair, I don't think any manufacturer 'mutilates' anything they make (that's usually left to the likes of me in the way of cutting, sawing, carving and altering). It's a great shame that Hornby's gangwayed Gresley carriages have such a poor body shape (does the firm make Thompson corridor stock?), though the non-gangwayed LNER stock is first class. I've made Comet kits to the same diagrams as these shown below, but I haven't matched the RTR excellence. Hornby Gresley non-corridor 3rd R4516 weathered.jpg This is the LNER all Third, weathered down employing the dry-brush technique with a range of colours including matt brown, matt grey and matt black. Hornby Gresley non-corridor 3rd R4520 weathered.jpg And the same diagram, this time in BR ownership. weathered Hornby Gresley 02.jpg The same weathering techniques were applied to the LNER Semi Corridor Lavatory Composite. weathered Kirk Gresley 01.jpg Though pretty grotty now in comparison with the current RTR and etched equivalents, old Kirk kits can be 'brought to life' with a touch of weathering. I built this one some time ago and painted it in (wartime) unlined teak, weathering it lightly. With the other LNER vehicles, it'll be used for the LNER weekend scheduled for LB next year. Though nowhere near the standard of your coach-building, as layout carriages, used on a big layout, they have their place I think. As everything I've made with regard to locos and rolling stock is weathered to one degree or another, then these fit in quite well in my view. Others have recently posted examples of their weathering - my most grateful thanks for those. Regards, Tony. I made this from a Kirk kit. I had a go at flush glazing it, luckily the windows have square corners. Regards Tony. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium New Haven Neil Posted September 29, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 29, 2017 I was going to post some photos of my mucky US diseasels, but the amount of dust on top of the weathering is embarrassing! Garage layout..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Does anyone use the weathering "kits" that are available? These seem to contain packs of paints to create rust shades, dirt, oil, smoke etc and I think are mainly aimed at military modellers. Just wondering if they are worth acquiring. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglian Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Consider Cassettes? For trains that are at least 12' long? They would work for locomotive changes to avoid handling but beyond that I can't see how they would help in a practical sense. The fiddle yard arrangement that Tony has created and extended is the optimum design, in the space available, considering the very long formations that are a feature of LB. Edited September 29, 2017 by Anglian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 A more appropriate apple green appearance than the spotless fairground livery so often seen on LNER models... WEB Thompson Tank.jpg Very nice! But bullhead chairs would have made it even more appropriate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Risky remark..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 30, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) Does anyone use the weathering "kits" that are available? These seem to contain packs of paints to create rust shades, dirt, oil, smoke etc and I think are mainly aimed at military modellers. Just wondering if they are worth acquiring. Jon If you have a pristine out of the box collection of stock that you want to tone down a bit and no suitable paint in stock, they are a very good starting point, but most of us that weather have all sort of pots and containers full or part full of foul and disgusting mixes of varying opacity and gloopiness which we can use for weathering and don't need this sort of 'shot in the arm' investment. A minor drawback, and one rooted in my own opinion rather than any researched factual information, is that, being aimed at military modellers, they tend to concentrate on mud, dust, and faded colours to an extent that I am less convinced is suitable for UK railway modelling especially steam era. I am critical of much factory applied weathering for this as well. It is my belief that steam age weathering should be of a much darker overall tone, due to the colour of steam clag and filth which was very heavily contaminated with coal dust. I have recently weathered a Hornby 42xx which is allocated to my coal train using very dark media indeed, and have had several favourable comments about it from people whose opinion I respect in the matter, which is gratifying; this is a loco which spends it's working life in coal mines, coal sidings, coal unloading facilities, coal washerys, and running around in coal dusty enviroments; brake block dust is not the primary colour! Edited September 30, 2017 by The Johnster 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Risky remark..... Indeed !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob94 Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hello all I thought I would show what I consider to be my best effort at weathering. The model does have issues such as wheels that are the wrong size and no crew or lamps. I think I went over the top with the handrails and footsteps in retrospect, maybe a little bit too much bare metal showing that probably would have rusted. Now I really ought to get on with some modelling after I fixed my Mini got quite the stockpile of engine and wagon kits to get through before I can buy some more! Appologies for the rubbish mobile phone pics Cheers Robin 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted September 30, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) For trains that are at least 12' long? They would work for locomotive changes to avoid handling but beyond that I can't see how they would help in a practical sense. The fiddle yard arrangement that Tony has created and extended is the optimum design, in the space available, considering the very long formations that are a feature of LB. Off layout storage Cassettes that hold 3/4 coaches are used on a railway I know very well and the owner can create different 'trains' in less that two minutes. He keeps several types of Brake Diagram as singles on spurs so that they can be added too. It means he doesn't have to have many duplicates of the same Diagram vehicle. Maybe think outside the 'cassette' Anglian? Philth Edited September 30, 2017 by Mallard60022 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglian Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Robin, whatever failures you see in your own work I think it looks fantastic as does the stone walled building behind the locomotive. The windows, the colouring and the degree of relief of the stone courses looks very effective. Phil – ah I understand now – I can appreciate how that would work very well in many cases – thank you for opening my eyes! I always liked the turntable system on Buckingham until somebody pointed out to me that in essence it's 'wrong' since a train wouldn't be turned at the end of the line, only the locomotive. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Cassette storage can be really useful. I would advocate separate loco cassettes and I wouldn't make them too long. At the moment I use aluminium angle cassettes no more than a metre long, most are shorter on one part of my main layout and simply use cut down scouring pads to stop trains shooting off the end, simple but it works. If a train is slightly shorter the sponge can be moved up the cassette which as I have to put my cassettes away at the end of a session is really useful as stock can't slide around. I've also used cassettes with track on my micro layout as well as per the photos below, elastic bands are used to stop runaway stock. I have to be especially careful, our garage floor means things don't bounce. These photos were taken with a phone so aren't great but give an idea. I find aluminium angle gets dirty quicker Martyn 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted September 30, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 30, 2017 I had problems with Aluminium angle that would not conduct at all. It was cleaned and worked for a few minutes and then running became stuttery with lots of sparks and then everything stopped again. Cleaned once more and then coated with electrolube - same result. So I switched to brass angle. Heavy as hell but it works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post PMP Posted September 30, 2017 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) Two blue and one green in the weathering corner, Heljan 26, flush glazed, bogies with Pete Piszczek bogie spring mods, and door windows filled, headlights fitted Bachmann 08, brassmasters rods, shawplan glazing and Tim Horn springs, scratch built pipework Bachmann late 64xx. Cab and bunker modified, flush glazed, top feed removed, renumbered Weathering is a mix of acrylics, enamels and artists pastels. Edited September 30, 2017 by PMP 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstock Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 l Sometimes, less is more. Img_0363.jpg OK so both need detailing, sort that van roof, .....couplings.....maybe a bit of matt rust on the UFs? Phil A billion times more merit in having built it yourself painted it, lettered it, then weathered yourself in in my opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 92220 Posted October 1, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Morning Tony, I hope that you and Mo are well. Further to the examples and discussion on the last couple of pages, there are a few weathering examples below: A Comet/Hornby ex LMS Restaurant Composite Bachmann mk1 BG A much-modified Airfix ex LMS non-corridor BTL Somewhat overdone Hornby/Brassmasters Black 5: (This one should have a part-welded tender) Hornby/Brassmasters Scot Weathering techniques I've used have been largely derived from watching Tim Shackleton's Right Track dvds. I still have a lot to learn in many areas, not least subtlety, but I'm enjoying the process. With so much packed away in boxes ready for Camden Shed mk2, there hasn't been anything done on the painting, lining and weathering front of late, but I look forward to starting again when the time comes. With best wishes, Iain Edited October 1, 2017 by 92220 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post coachmann Posted October 1, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Even if put regularly put through a carriage wash, the chassis and roof will still turn the same colour as all other stock whether weathered or not. I built a few GNR coaches to add variety to my early 1950's Liverpool-Newcastle workings some years ago. I could not bring myself to weather this 7½ compartment corridor third coach after applying the teak finish, so I settled for differing the shade of the panels.... This photo was taken of a GNR 'toplight' brake compo to compare the tumblehome with a Hornby coach which only had the tumblehome at the extreme ends. The flush-windows didn't help the RTR product either... A Gresley 1930's end-door corridor third, the style I hope Hornby will visit one day. (Mousa Models etched sides)... I should add that lining (and white roofs) was reintroduced at the end of the LNER period and the early BR period while teak was still going through works. The 'E' suffix was added around 1952. Edited October 1, 2017 by coachmann 29 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Sim Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Count yourself a founder member of the pre-War Bytham team. August next year it will be then, probably over a weekend. We'll accommodate you, of course, and two others. The Willoughby will see to the rest if we all pool resources. It should be a great time, and I can report on it when I'm in the 'land down under' some six weeks later. Sorry the lateness. Excellent, i cant wait. I'll have to build some stock up to bring it over for the event. Thank you for the accommodation as well, just send my parents the bill. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Sim Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Please, Jesse, just let me know which C2 you want me to build (at mates' rates). Look at your last sentence, please. I could 'of' sworn.............. Sir! I shall Tony, thanks again. So the first weekend will be pre-dating LB, the next will be English lessons for me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Sim Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 They bring back some memories Tony... it was in fact coming up to four years ago I believe, since those photos were taken by your good self on my first visit to Little Bytham. Since then the majority of locos have been sold (I've around 4 left that I'm going to get sold before Christmas). Most kind of you Jesse. Here's some more examples of my work over the past year or so. mg_8498.jpg mg_8505.jpg Finally one taken by Alan Buttler, on Geoff Taylor's glorious Barmouth Junction. The Pannier and stock are mine. P1200714.jpg Sadly with everything that went on with my Dad, I've done little modelling this year, however.... I've just given the layout it's last coat of paint (after trying out some different base colours). This weekend I'm going to add a layer of Treemendous ground earth as a literal soil layer, before begging the grass work with static grass and some teddy bear fur. IMG_8347.jpg IMG_8346.jpg Lovely work Tom, I am truly sorry to have read of your loss. Hopefully get to meet you next year sometime. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
glo41f Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Wow the weathering shown here is just awesome. It certainly enhances the models. The Royal Scot looks so real and purposeful. They really are handsome locomotives. The coaches too are really super and look so much better for a bit of dirt and a "lived in" appearance. I never cease to be amazed at the talent and abilities shown by contributors to this topic. It is a wonderful spin off from a wonderful layout subject and it certainly helps me get some bright thoughts on these dark and dismal autumn days when there is not much else to cheer the spirit. Thank you all. Martin Long Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 This photo was taken of a GNR 'toplight' brake compo to compare the tumblehome with a Hornby coach which only had the tumblehome at the extreme ends. The flush-windows didn't help the RTR product either... I should add that lining (and white roofs) was reintroduced at the end of the LNER period and the early BR period while teak was still going through works. The 'E' suffix was added around 1952. An interesting point about the re-introduction of lining. I don't think I was aware of that before now. Should the visible edge of the gutter on that GN brake compo be "dirty teak" rather than pure roof colour? Good to see some models of GN coaches, either way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstock Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 I got the third coat of teak ( basically the darker panels ) on to the brake composite from up the thread, After uming and ahing I decided I will not be weathering it down, instead I shall swap it out for an already weathered example of the same diagram from another rake, thus keeping a variation in finish appropriate to both rakes.. Having photographed the little beasty, I noticed that I've soldered one of the panels in to the double doors slightly cockide, oh well, perfection is but a dream. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Accurate model of a door that should never have got past the workshop foreman? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 You will "loose it" with the Door handle fitted , it will then never be noticed. Nice Teak effect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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