RBE Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Lee You could also save yourself some wiring by wiring the LED's in series. This would mean only one power feed cable. Duncan You only need 1 power feed in parallel Duncan with the tower as the common return (or feed, whichever you choose). If you went series you would need to daisy chain the LEDs meaning that you couldn't use the tower as a soldered fixing for every LED only the first and last in the chain. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hi Lee, The tower's looking very impressive. I must admit I whimped out and got mine from Express Models. The 20s are coming on nicely too. I'm not convinced by those blue doors though. It's a great idea, but I think it would be better to give the impression of battered old faded blue doors, with no grey. If you take the doors as they are and imagine what the donor loco would have looked like at the time the doors were taken off, assuming it was much the same, it would have looked very strange with so little grey left and nothing like anything I've ever seen, with so much of the grey having rubbed off. I'd go for a couple of nice, faded and streaked blue doors with no grey. Just my opinion though and of course there's a prototype for everything so someone will probably now come along and prove me wrong with a nice photo or two! Cheers, Dave PS Love the faded 08 a page or two back! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hiya. Large logo is favourite at the moment! Nice... I was to get one repainted but now Hornby is doing one. Good choice, I'm also waiting for a Colas Rail version soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 You know what Dave, your'e absolutely spot on with that, I couldn't quite put my finger on what wasn't quite right with the blue doors, but I was thinking last night 'would a not terribly run down railfreight grey loco' really have faded grey doors with lots of blue showing through? Definately yes to a replacement complete blue door, albeit faded. Out with the faded blue and paintbrush again Hi again Lee, That to me is one of the things that is so good about RMWeb, bouncing ideas off each other in the spirit of improving each other's skills the whole time. I must admit though, I'm envious of some of the airbrush results you've achieved. My latest Mk 2d's have been a bit of let down in that department. I've needed too many coats to get good paint coverage sometimes, which has obscured the details. You don't seem to have suffered that problem. I'm not really sure what I'm doing wrong. If I thicken the paint, it doesn't spray well. If I thin it too much, I need too many coats. It seems to be about getting the thickness of the paint just right. Looking forward to seeing your next posts. Weathered 20s, Large Logo 56s, bliss... Cheers, Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hi. It is good that Hornby are finally releasing one, but the rrp of nearly 150 notes makes me glad I can do them myself! Much cheaper at hattons and rails...! I'm picking up an Arriva Class 67 and LL Class 56 from there as it's quite cheap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Cheers Dave. Believe me, I've had my ups and downs with this spraying lark! What sort of equipment are you using, air pressure, paint and thinner type, and rough mixture ratio? Most of my issues were down to pressure and correct paint viscosity.I'll check those details and get back to you, Lee. I have an Iwata airbrush which is a good one, but my compressor is a fixed pressure one, which is maybe a bit limited. Cheers for now, Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melly Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Hi Lee - I have to be honest and when I saw the Blue doors on the 20's, like Dave, I thought it just didn't look right. I had a go at this on one of my 20's ages ago and opted for railmatch faded BR Blue. I tried various methods but eventually settled on dry-brushing the faded blue on in vertical strokes. It was left to go almost dry before I addedd MIG weathering powders to further highlight the faded / distressed nature of the paint but also to add some dirt. Can't find the picture on my HD but linked here the one that was on my WB thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=25848 Cheers Melly Edited April 18, 2013 by Melly 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Ahhh yes. Mr Melly I remember your old thread well. Some lovly examples of thornabys finest. Great work. Hwve you modelled thornaby TMD buildings yet :-) Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 That yard light looks cracking mate. Very well done. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Looks very nice Lee. I also know the woes of introducing masking tape too soon! It would have been nice to see wire tdm cables though mate. Cav Edited April 23, 2013 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Well you either paint or use lining transfers. I prefer paint myself. Its just a case of good masking and the right order of colours. I am painting a farish mk3 at the mo in the livery so Ill post pics of that as I go although you will probably get it done before me as I have limited time at the mo. The colours want to be done exec light grey, white, red, exec dark grey. Makes for easier masking and colour coverage that way. Just make sure you let each coat dry between masking as you say. You done want tape pull when youve done all that work. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Yeah you could do it that way. Its not really a problem either way. Its just when doing coaches there is a exec light grey stripe at the top so easier to do first as a full undercoat. Not an issue with locos though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 They are looking very good. You dont need to hint at any eye colour from 4mm scale range or else it will either look like a weird blob of colour or the most surprised person ever. Just shadowed skintone on the eye sockets will suffice. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 How about giving their faces a wash with some diluted black paint. Looking forward to seeing the 86 progress. Did you have any problems removing the cab interiors? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Heres a good guide. I used to paint warhammer stuff so although 4mm scale is a bit smaller the ideas are the same. forums.relicnews.com/showthread.php?99163-How-to-paint-faces-and-skin Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Not with the cab interiors this time, the last ones I did had to have them ripped out the glue was so strong! Its the same with the headcode marker lenses....they will not budge, even after a good few hours soaked in Phoenix Superstrip. That is some strong glue. Thanks Lee, I think my 86 will be my nemesis !! I have Virgin liveried one also but am looking to repair it not repaint it. (It fell of my layout after I caught it with my controller . Very minimal damage but all the windows fell in and now rattle about inside the cab also I lost an insulator for the pantograph and having no joy in finding one. Perhaps I will tarp it and plonk it on a siding. Regards Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 For figures like yours I would paint flesh wash with thinned black and then once fully dry a little dry brush of flesh again to pick out highlights. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hi Lee. Unfortunately, I don't have a link, but for your eyes, try googling "Archers rivet strips". I used them on my DP2 model and have some waiting for my O gauge class 27 roof, but I did notice they did "eye balls" too which was a suprise to see, but very innovative. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I've made insulators by using some plastikard rod in a drill then match a razor saw blade as close to the original insulators. Spin rod, place blade against it and away you go! Cheers, Mark 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Thanks Mark, Never even though of that. Regards Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted April 24, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2013 Meet these two unsavory characters. I'm happy with the overall look, but not with the faces. I'm not sure how to get some hint of eye colour and facial expression in, more prototype observation required! The seated character looks a right miserable s*d! Cheers, Mick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Think id be too if I had what looks to be a green face NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm81 Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I actually think a figure with a green face could make a nice little cameo, hunched over, bit of "pavement pizza" infront.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 What figures are those? I need to populate my locos more as theyre looking bare without drivers NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Looking good. Glad to see you just painting the stripe area which is the way I do it. I would do the exec light grey next myself though a s the red will go over that better than the grey over red. Cav Edited April 25, 2013 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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