Hornby P2

[robmcg]

Slightly Weathered? Only to happy to oblige     

 

cotn_lhfan.jpg

I didn't mean to do it your honour...

 

Edited September 6, 2014 by robmcg

[robmcg]

another photo 'straight out of the box'. The chimney is dead-level with top-of-boiler too.

 

 

 

[Barry O]

For someone who asked for a Bugati version and Turbomotive, while by using quantum looping, I have managed to send back photos from 5 years into your future of the future Hornby ones :

However did we manage when we had to build Ks kits???? That P2 looks just like the one I have....

Edited September 6, 2014 by Barry O

[zep75]

Hi. I've done a bit more with the tender of my P2. The white-black-white lining has been added on the tender sides. A start, just a start for today, has been made on some of the red framing lining. On the rear of the tender, handrails and lamp-irons have all been added as separate items. For the lamp-irons I used number 16 staples. Again, Alan Gibson handrail knobs -small. The handrails being made out of 0.45mm nickle-silver wire.

100_6070 - Copy.JPG.

 

More is to come...

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

Very impressive I am keen to do similar

 

As a matter of interest what glue do you use

Presumably drilled holes for both handrails and lamp irons?

 

Any chance of a straight on pic of the tender rear?

 

Thanks

[pete55]

Very impressive I am keen to do similar

 

As a matter of interest what glue do you use

Presumably drilled holes for both handrails and lamp irons?

 

Any chance of a straight on pic of the tender rear?

 

Thanks

 

Also, any tips on removing the Hornby handrails without damaging the paintwork?

[railroadbill]

For someone who asked for a Bugati version and Turbomotive, while by using quantum looping, I have managed to send back photos from 5 years into your future of the future Hornby ones :

Really like that K's  P2, nice model. There's something kind of art deco about the styling of these engines. Does your model have romford driving wheels or are those the K's ones? Reason for asking is that I've got a partly built K's princess in the to-do pile. Your pics and the k's kits comments have encouraged me to dig it out. I'd come to a halt when I couldn't decide to make the k's chassis  with probably a different motor/gearbox, or go for something like a comet chassis kit with romford/markit type wheels. However. looking at the k's wheels in the kit, they look the same profile anyway and look ok. (Think they are steel tyres?)  Any advice on using the  K's wheels? (These have the D shaped hole.)  Thanks.

Edited September 6, 2014 by railroadbill

[melmerby]

I notice that Model Railways Direct has revised it's "expected" date forward from 2/10/2014 to 20/09/14 for R3207

 

It's arrival is getting closer.

 

Keith

Edited September 6, 2014 by melmerby

[Market65]

Very impressive I am keen to do similar

 

As a matter of interest what glue do you use

Presumably drilled holes for both handrails and lamp irons?

 

Any chance of a straight on pic of the tender rear?

 

Thanks

Hi, zep75. Thanks. The glue which I use is good old super-glue, and I did indeed drill holes to put the lamp-irons in. The drill bit used being 1mm, with a bit of 'wriggling' of the drill bit to help make sure that the holes were correctly sized. There are two of the number 16 staples to fit into each hole. One staple is used for the 'top' of the lamp-iron, and one staple for the lower 'projection'. And, before I forget, holes were also drilled to accommodate the handrail knobs.

 

A little bit more red lining has been done today. See photo's.

.

.

 

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

[Market65]

Also, any tips on removing the Hornby handrails without damaging the paintwork?

Hi, pete55. All I really did was to use a curved blade in the modelling knife. Using the blade, keeping it level, I very carefully, carved one thin layer of the moulding away, then repeating this as many times as needed until just short of the body. At this point, I changed to a 'used' curved blade, and carefully scraped off most of the remainder of the handrail moulding. To finish with, I then used some wet and dry and just worked it up and down until there was nothing left of the moulded handrail. I must quickly add that about halfway through this procedure, I used what was left of the handrail, so that I could use where the knobs had been to mark out where the replacement Alan Gibson knobs where going to go by using a 0.4mm drill bit. I hope that this makes some sense, and please do remember to only remove a little of the plastic at a time! Also do be careful to try and not carve into surrounding details that are to be kept.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

[robmcg]

I notice that Model Railways Direct has revised it's "expected" date forward from 2/10/2014 to 20/09/14 for R3207

 

It's arrival is getting closer.

 

Keith

 

Great..   that will make it even harder to avoid being the kid-at-Christmas.  Again!

 

Soon people will be saying, "what shortage of Hornby products?"   I think selling sets of Hornby teak Gresleys on Ebay will be quite easy, too. 

[robmcg]

Hi, zep75. Thanks. The glue which I use is good old super-glue, and I did indeed drill holes to put the lamp-irons in. The drill bit used being 1mm, with a bit of 'wriggling' of the drill bit to help make sure that the holes were correctly sized. There are two of the number 16 staples to fit into each hole. One staple is used for the 'top' of the lamp-iron, and one staple for the lower 'projection'. And, before I forget, holes were also drilled to accommodate the handrail knobs.

 

A little bit more red lining has been done today. See photo's.

100_6071 - Copy.JPG.

100_6075 - Copy.JPG.

 

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

 

Superb work again.  I have a pleasant few hours ahead adding some lining by digital editing to my last pic but stand in awe of your work.

 

Maybe I will add some steam and smoke to my pic so people won't mistake it for excellent real modelling. I am so impressed by R3171 I cannot believe they got this model on the market at such a nice price. 

[JSpencer]

Reply to post 1359 as my PC won't let me quote it!

 

I built this K's kit 20 years ago to this year, it was my second kit so if it looks odd in parts, then that is my lack of experience back then.

 

I originally used the K wheels. The problem is most of the drivers rusted and they came off of their plastic inserts within the first 6 months. They are still there for the tender and pony wheels, they are really awful and I never got round to replacing those but as you spotted I did replace the drivers.

 

These were replaced by Romfords. As the chassis frame on a Ks is quite think, I grounded back the bearing faces to as thin as possible. The wheels are the correct diameter, however you will find the flanges overlap, so for the centre 4 wheels I turned the flanges down a bit (just fix one to an axle, place it in a chuck of a dremel, turn at high speed and touch it with a file).

 

Forget the Ks motor. Despite being a big loco, there is little room for a motor. I went through 3 motors before setling on a DC10 and single stage box. This is underpowered, so the loco will either pull a load or burn itself out trying! I intend to replace it at some point with a branchlines 40/1 2 stage gearbox and biggest of their can motors that will fit in it (forget the flywheel, there is no room!). When/if I ever get time......

 

The Turbomotive, which must be similar to your Princess was an easier model.

 

I look forwards to my TTS sound P2 to see how it compares....

Edited September 6, 2014 by JSpencer

[melmerby]

I think selling sets of Hornby teak Gresleys on Ebay will be quite easy, too. 

The teaks seem to sell well enough now!

 

I've been told by a couple of retailers who deal in S/H stock that as soon as the get some in they are sold!

 

Keith

[railroadbill]

Reply to post 1359 as my PC won't let me quote it!

 

I built this K's kit 20 years ago to this year, it was my second kit so if it looks odd in parts, then that is my lack of experience back then.

 

I originally used the K wheels. The problem is most of the drivers rusted and they came off of their plastic inserts within the first 6 months. They are still there for the tender and pony wheels, they are really awful and I never got round to replacing those but as you spotted I did replace the drivers.

 

These were replaced by Romfords. As the chassis frame on a Ks is quite think, I grounded back the bearing faces to as thin as possible. The wheels are the correct diameter, however you will find the flanges overlap, so for the centre 4 wheels I turned the flanges down a bit (just fix one to an axle, place it in a chuck of a dremel, turn at high speed and touch it with a file).

 

Forget the Ks motor. Despite being a big loco, there is little room for a motor. I went through 3 motors before setling on a DC10 and single stage box. This is underpowered, so the loco will either pull a load or burn itself out trying! I intend to replace it at some point with a branchlines 40/1 2 stage gearbox and biggest of their can motors that will fit in it (forget the flywheel, there is no room!). When/if I ever get time......

 

The Turbomotive, which must be similar to your Princess was an easier model.

 

I look forwards to my TTS sound P2 to see how it compares....

Thanks very much for that, I'll abandon the k's wheels. I'd always used romfords in the past on kits because of the positive quartering. I'd had this kit a long time (came from Hadley Hobbies near Liverpool st station in, must be the late 1980s, sale price £25 says the label). Now I've got a temp controlled soldering iron I thought I'd do some more to it!

 

Your P2 does make me think that that a later streamlined P2 would be rather good...

[JSpencer]

Thanks very much for that, I'll abandon the k's wheels. I'd always used romfords in the past on kits because of the positive quartering. I'd had this kit a long time (came from Hadley Hobbies near Liverpool st station in, must be the late 1980s, sale price £25 says the label). Now I've got a temp controlled soldering iron I thought I'd do some more to it!

 

Your P2 does make me think that that a later streamlined P2 would be rather good...

You are welcome. With hindsight I wish I had superglued mine, much easier to correct mistakes.

[Legend]

Saw the Model for sale at Maclaren models at swap meet in Falkirk. Looks very impressive especially for £72.50. What's the difference between this one and the full fat version. It looked to me that the Railroad one had white black white lining on boiler but not tender, so I take it the full fat version will have a fully lined tender?

Edited September 7, 2014 by Legend

[will5210]

Saw the Model for sale at Maclaren models at swap meet in Falkirk. Looks very impressive especially for £72.50. What's the difference between this one and the full fat version. It looked to me that the Railroad one had white black white lining on boiler but not tender, so I take it the full fat version will have a fully lined tender?

Cab, wheel & bufferbeam lining too & also shaded gold numbers/letters.

[bluebottle]

Cab, wheel & bufferbeam lining too & also shaded gold numbers/letters.

 

For the extra £50 or whatever, it'd be nice if they surprised us with a few more improvements besides. Would getting the smokebox door hinge right be too much to ask for?

[Bon Accord]

For the extra £50 or whatever, it'd be nice if they surprised us with a few more improvements besides. Would getting the smokebox door hinge right be too much to ask for?

 

In addition, I wonder if there's any chance of there being a representation of the linkage to the mechanical lubricators.

[melmerby]

You are welcome. With hindsight I wish I had superglued mine, much easier to correct mistakes.

If you use low melt solder it is easy to dis-assemble and start again without any damage.

 

Keith

[toboldlygo]

For the extra £50 or whatever, it'd be nice if they surprised us with a few more improvements besides. Would getting the smokebox door hinge right be too much to ask for?

I know from taking the wheels off of the tender for painting on the Railroad version, it's been tooled up for both sound and pick ups.

[robmcg]

In addition, I wonder if there's any chance of there being a representation of the linkage to the mechanical lubricators.

Would it be easy to adapt the lubricator crank arm from an A4 rear driving wheel and add a wire arm to the lubricators?

Edited September 7, 2014 by robmcg

[robmcg]

In any event here is the quasi-fully-painted P2 done with digital editing. Apologies if you have seen it elsewhere.  New photos starting today.

 

 

 

[robmcg]

and here is an unadorned l/h side view one of several to come, basic R3171.  Steps and cylinders drain pipes are supplied but not yet fitted.

 

 

Rob

Edited September 7, 2014 by robmcg

[railroadbill]

Would it be easy to adapt the lubricator crank arm from an A4 rear driving wheel and add a wire arm to the lubricators?

Your pics of the prototype in posts 1095 and 1181 show a long rod running almost vertically from a crank on the  left hand third driving wheel to the lubricator drive. If this is fitted to the "full fat" version then it could look rather impressive when running and as you suggest a similar arrangement could be a retrofit to the railroad model. Although I've knocked the "lubricator drive" moulding off mine twice, well, second time it just dropped off on the track and took ages to find. 

 

Apart from that - it's the loco I've always run each time I've spent some time with the layout - and it just purrs along, no problems after over 10 hrs running so far.