3 link Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks Miss Prism. I went to make a real start this afternoon, and first off got bogged down tidying the work area, then noticed that the next door neighbour was having work done on his gutters, so went out to get the blokes to repair mine while they were in the area. At least I now have a tidy table to work at/on. Can I put a tenner on post # 279 . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 What, like this ÷? It's an historical legacy and you can probably blame it on IBM for not including it in their EBCDIC character encoding (the E stands for "Extended", so earlier ones were even worse). Ever since, we have been accustomed to use the slash symbol so that a/b is read as 'a over b'. How big would your keyboard be if it included all the symbols that folk would think useful? Nick Hello Nick, it would not extend your keyboard as the pads are there on it they only have the wrong things on them. / = divide, * = multiply . Have I got that right? What's up with the old ones. Them two were off my number key pad. At least + and - seem to be the same for now. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Can I put a tenner on post # 279 . Martyn. You lose....I made a start, I just haven't cut anything on the kit yet, just some brass for bearings. You can Paypal me the tenner? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hello JeffP, I don't think that that counts, as you've not built anything just yet? We all want to see bits of metal soldered together. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I am with OzzyO here it is not started until frets are cut and Brass and Nickle are soldered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 6 pages of waffle! I think I'll unwatch this until something actually happens... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 ... EBCDIC... I remember seeing this acronym inscribed on the insides of 1959 Tube stock, and wondered what it meant... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 You lose....I made a start, I just haven't cut anything on the kit yet, just some brass for bearings. You can Paypal me the tenner? Can I pay you in installments?, or would you like to hire a "working" soldering iron off me instead Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 This thread started two weeks ago today, and five pages back, not a bit of the kit cut from the fret. I know that JeffP did say in the title the build begins.. but slowly. But did we expect it to be this slow? If it had been Jazz the job would have been done. So come on JeffP lets see some action get your files and soldering iron out and get cracking. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Just enjoy yourself, Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Jeff - does the loco bogie have 3/16" axles, and what level does the bogie stretcher lie in relation to the bogie axle centreline? (I couldn't make out what was going on from your etch pics.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Miss Prism, I'll measure tomorrow when I'm up there again. it's getting chilly up there now. Onwards, as they say. The tender inner frames, etched in nickel silver, were removed from the fret, the bearing holes opened out gently with files, (I MUST buy a tapered reamer to suit, the one I have is far too small), until the round bearings supplied were a tight fit, and the round bearings pushed through to hold the frames together, insides facing out. they were then sweated together. The above shows them sweated together with the two round bearings used to hold them together now pushed out again. Next, the required slots were marked out carefully and cut inside the lines using....yes...it's a hacksaw! difficult photo: the camera is HEAVY and not easy to use one left handed! Once all were sawn out, it was ready for filing. The eagle eyes among you will note that I have left myself a fair bit of filing to do, but, working on the principle that you can't put metal back on, I thought it prudent. The slots were filed with needle files and finished with a fine flat file. they were filed to be a tight fit on the round bearings....I had already measured and found that the round bearing smaller diameter is the same as the inner slotted diameter of the bearings I made. A bit of luck, really, I OUGHT to have designed it like that...but I didn't. Here are the slots filed up: Next, a piece of "L" shaped brass was mounted on the milling table and drilled 1mm at 3.25 mm intervals. I did it on there after finding that I couldn't get the holes accurately the same distance from the edge of the angle by eye. The milling table has a co-ordinate table so it was easy to set it parallel to one edge, place the drill where I wanted it and advance it in one direction only, the "x" direction, for you mathematicians. Spot the two "trial holes". That's it for tonight. A bit more engineering, some drilling, LOTS of filing, and YES, some bits have been cut out and soldered together...albeit, only temporarily. Tomorrow I'll have a go at cutting off the angle with a slitting disc..... ....and we shall see what we shall see. I shall wear eye protection so that when I'm finished, I can still see. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Hello JeffP, well I think that we can now say that you have now started! One thing that I would do if your clamping any thing down is to put some packing under the free (R/H) end of your clamp, make it a bit higher than the job (about 10 thou will do) and try and get the bolt as close to the work end of the clamp as poss. I'd cut the L angle with a piercing saw if you have one. Your first two holes on the right are your trial holes. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks Ozzy. I didn't drill it stuck up slightly like that, I pressed it down onto the wood packing with a piece of thick alloy bar. I had visions of it lifting with the drill...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Today, I have mostly been trying to get the tender base erected. First off, I cut off the eight "L" shaped CSB brackets with the slitting disc and didn't lose any...success! They were filed up to remove burrs and tinned on their bases. The photo shows one being held for tinning in a pair of self-grip tweezers. Next, I knocked up a simple jig from bits of timber, to hold the bearings and brackets in the right position for soldering. the bearings were also tinned on one face, so it was just a case of touching a hot iron to the parts once they were positioned correctly. The two inner sides were then marked out and drilled for CSB supports before being separated over a gas flame and finally cleaned up. The frame spacers were also cut from the etch and cleaned up. The two shown at the top are for compensating the inner two axles so will be left off this build. Finally, the whole lot was soldered up with the aid of a small try-square. I hasten to add that the photo shows the tender frames soldered together BEFORE cleaning up. That's where I am at now. Tomorrow, it can have the wheels fitted.....yay!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Miss Prism, I hadn't forgotten your question. Here is a photo I took of the front bogie side frames and their associated parts. I won't be using the centre spacer, I have bought one from Gladiator which does side control. the kit can have side control added, but I like the self-contained Gladiator unit. The wheelbase seems to be as close as dammit is to swearing, 43.5mm. I'm assuming the parts B5 and B7 to be the front and rear bogie cross members. Certainly their width would appear correct. but I didn't feel like looking right through the loco instructions, sorry. Sorry it's a bit dark, but it was the best I could get to show contrast and all the parts clearly, it was taken without flash, under a daylight fluorescent lamp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=254719 There should be five brass rods across the tender chassis, Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Sorry it's a bit dark, but it was the best I could get to show contrast and all the parts clearly, it was taken without flash, under a daylight fluorescent lamp. I know not everyone has a scanner but if you do have access to one, I've found that scanning etches is easier than getting a good, legible photograph. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Miss Prism: The two spacers front and rear have turned down bits which exactly match the position of the brass rod. I have drilled a hole through at the correct point to act as another "rod" and also a keeper for the wire. PatB...I do have one, and hadn't thought of it, but will do so in future. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Looking at the at the chassis the brass rods would be centrally positioned between the wheels not where the spacers are? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Miss Prism: The two spacers front and rear have turned down bits which exactly match the position of the brass rod. Ok, clear now, Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Jeff - which is the more intrusive - the overslung or the underslung? (The downside of the underslung is that the solder between the brackets and the blocks will be under tension, and I'm thinking a monster 500g on top of this bogie.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 I can see problems with both: where do the central pivots go? Can the wire be bent at all to make it less intrusive? Otherwise, I may have to go with a different method of suspending the bogie...or none at all. On with today: So today I began by threading the bearings etc onto a bit of brass wire to see how it hung, so to speak. problem: I couldn't get the wire to thread properly, because nothing was stopping the bearings rotating...so they did...and the wire bound up. I could see this being a problem, so I cut 15 pieces of 3mm square brass "L" section, filed up, and set about soldering them, one each side of each bearing to make horncheeks (??). NOT an easy task, but finally got it done, only one bearing soldered in place , and now freed off and cleaned up. To keep the horncheeks parallel, I placed TWO square bearings into each hornguide, fluxed, placed the horncheek in position up against the bearings and soldered it. This is the result: Maybe TOMORROW I can see what it looks like on wheels....... N15 class: I just followed the directions on CLAG site. The wheelbase isn't the same across all four wheels, but IS symmetrical about the centre. It also gives you more weight on the outer two wheels, apparently. Once it's sprung tomorrow, I can see about going to my local music shop for some guitar wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Next time, Jeff, put the horncheeks on before getting the frames up. I can see problems with both: where do the central pivots go? Can the wire be bent at all to make it less intrusive? Don't know where the central pivots would go yet, other than being on the inside of the frame. In theory, the beam could be bent, but the only place it would not be intrusive is through the plane of the bogie stretcher, and that is a non-starter. Got a good prototype picture of the bogie? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 No, not really, plus the Gladiator side control unit is a closed box almost the height of the bogie centre. here's on of a large scale model: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1440&bih=775&q=A1+bogie&oq=A1+bogie&gs_l=img.3...2299.4753.0.7208.8.6.0.2.0.0.73.302.6.6.0...0.0...1ac.1.5.img.hRZQuh-DblE#imgrc=2H5kCeChessnHM%3A%3BWzJUdeUCWwmwTM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.modeng.johnbaguley.info%252Flocos%252F25inch%252FA1%252Fbogie1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.modeng.johnbaguley.info%252Flocos%252F25inch%252FA1%252FA1-2.htm%3B700%3B525 if I'd realised I was going to NEED horncheeks, they would have been there, trust me. Idiot man thought he could get away with it..... Have you any idea what METRIC diameter wire I might need, my micrometer is metric...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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