3 link Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Ask Labour...... That's one thing I totally agree on, but we better not go there........ Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 No......I did look at it a bit askance when I posted it...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Have I set a record, btw: onto the fourth page and I haven't ACTUALLY started yet.....? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Is this going to be one one of those ghost builds? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Have I set a record, btw: onto the fourth page and I haven't ACTUALLY started yet.....? Have we to start a sweepstake? Probably aiming low here but I'll put mine on post #217 for the first build photo! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Have we to start a sweepstake? Probably aiming low here but I'll put mine on post #217 for the first build photo! Indeed! Come on Jeff - cut metal! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Hello JeffP, I've just had a quick look on Slater's web site insulated horn-blocks £8.50 for six. If your still going to make your own. I'd leave a bit more in the bore, drill them to about 4.6mm (most drills will cut big) and them ream them to 4.8mm. OzzyO. PS. you have a PM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Have we to start a sweepstake? Probably aiming low here but I'll put mine on post #217 for the first build photo! I'm going to the local Paddy Power to see if they'll offer me odds on Jeff going no further than opening the box (which he has technically already done). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I've come to this topic a bit late - already on page 4! But already am getting a bit impatient .... the title said "Coming Soon" .... my fingers are drumming, waiting, in anticipation of some progress ;) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Kenton speaks...and I obey! (well, a couple of days later, anyway....) The build finally got under way today with me making eight square slotted bearings. The first one took about an hour to do, the next seven, another hour. Expert I am NOT! Ozzy had kindly offered to make me some bearings, but having already ordered the 5/16th bar, a couple of 4.6mm drills and a 4.8mm reamer, I was determined at least to have a go at making some. Anyway, first off I chucked some 5/16th bar in the 4-jaw chuck. THAT took about 30 minutes before I was satidfied it was running true. Having no idea what I was doing, I decided to copy as far as possible, Martin Finney's bearings, so first off the brass was faced and then centre drilled 2mm, before drilling to about 15mm depth with a new TiN coated 4.6mm drill. I used some cutting compound bought from Screwfix years ago to keep it all cool and running smoothly. Then I reamed it 4.8mm as per Ozzy's instructions, (why do it my own way when I have experts offering help? Thanks Ozzy). The reamer I bought was £10 all but 1 penny, but is one I can use in the lathe tailstock. I did so, but turned the chuck by hand while advancing the reamer, so as not to have it go too fast, and maybe snap the reamer? Once I was satisfied that I had reamed far enough, the parting tool was set up and used first to cut a slot 1mm deep in the outer face of the bearing, measured from the flat edge. In the first photo you can see the slot and the start of parting off the bearing. The lathe is not running at this point, just posed for the camera. In the second shot, I have moved out to show the reamer in the tailstock. I'm not sure it would be a good idea to use the reamer with the lathe under power in a lathe this small, since it's lowest speed is s till over 100rpm. In the third shot, the lathe is running, but the camera has stopped it. This is actually parting off the last bearing. And lastly, we have my eight bearings: I am reasonably proud of those. Tomorrow I will begin looking at how to make some brackets out of L-shaped brass to suspend the tender using continuous springy beam, (csb), with which Miss Prism is helping me. I hope to get the tender inner frames cut out and started too. Sorry this isn't much, but it's a BIG step for me, especially using the lathe to make something accurate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Miss Prism, can I just check, please? I've looked at the CSB plot page for the LNER eight-wheeled tender, and have simply multiplied each dimension by 7/4. I assume that's OK? Now, I've also weighed the tender etchings and castings and they come to around 650 gm, (0.65kg). Can you give me some input about setting the height of the beam, and what sort of beam diameter I should use, please? Thanks, Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Nicely done! My own preference would be to initially drill 3/16" so the bearings are a tight fit in the jig as you build the frames and then only once you're sure all is square ream to 4.8mm for the running clearance. However there are as many ways to build a loco as there are to skin a cat...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Jeff It's nice to finally see some progress in this build I can see a couple of things that may give you problems in the future. 1, I'm surprised to see that you have no guard protecting the drive motor on your Lathe as all of the small metal shavings from the items you have been turning will in time find there way into the motor and play havoc with the bearings and brushes of the motor. 2, Reaming out the bearings to size before fitting them to the built chassis rather than fine tuning each bearing to there respective Axles could cause you alignment problems later in the build. 3, It would make better sense to mark and drill the holes for the CBS beam pivots before you part off each bearing as they can be held in a vice for drilling with a pillar drill much more safely and at right angles to the axle path without damaging the faces of each bearing. These are just my observations of the project so far, good start as you are new to machine tools. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Lovely to see a start and REAL engineering too. I'm afraid to say it is all too easy to buy off the shelf the components required (as I would) and to miss out on all the excitement and satisfaction. Perhaps one day, meanwhile, nice to be shown. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Good to see you have bit the bullet and got started Jeff. I am looking forward to seeing this progress especially how you spring the LNER tender as I have a couple in the pile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hello JeffP, Now your set up for making the bearings why not make the bearings for the loco as well? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Wow. OK, to answer in order: Adrian: Hadn't thought of that. See answer below. Pete: 1. There is a fan guard and a fine filter inside it. I periodically remove it and clean it, but nowt seems to get through. 2. I hadn't thought of that. the first one was reamed after parting off and what a kerfuffle THAT was...... I shall have to solder the frames together and file up while they are together. If they are too far out, I shall have to turn up some more. 3. The CSB beam pivots will be drilled "L" section brass soldered to the tops of the bearings. No drilling. On this build, anyway. I couldn't find suitable handrail knobs and didn't want to just buy any old ones. The L section WILL be marked and drilled before cutting. Ozzy: Too late: I fell for some of the lovely Meteor hornblocks. I know you cant really see them, But I'll know they are there...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I've looked at the CSB plot page for the LNER eight-wheeled tender, and have simply multiplied each dimension by 7/4. I assume that's OK? Yes. Now, I've also weighed the tender etchings and castings and they come to around 650 gm, (0.65kg). For a 100 ton prototype loco weighing a model 2.5kg, its 60 ton tender should perhaps weigh a lot more than 650g... Anyway, I'm thinking 0.9mm to 1mm deflection for the wheels, in which case: for 650g, use 0.016" for 800g, use 0.017" for 1000g, use 0.018" for 1200g, use 0.019" Suggest the frame fulcrum points could be bits of wire or rod (1.5mm, say?) across the inner frame, which could then constitute (most of) your frame spacers. Make the inner tender frame detachable from the rest of the tender. You'll need a keeper plate, but this can be a simple wire frame running just beneath the blocks or axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Glad you managed to make the bearings without too many problems. As a suggestion for the future, for the cuts you were doing it looks as if you could pull that parting tool back into its holder a bit. Parting tools are flexible whilst, ironically, parting probably requires more rigidity to do it safely than any other lathe operation. Consequently it makes sense to have the absolute bare minimum of tool overhang that you can, commensurate with actually achieving the necessary depth of cut. Whilst it can be a bit nerve racking, you only need a hair's breadth of clearance between rotating and stationary parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hello JeffP, spotted a four jaw self centring chuck on Ebay for the Emco compact 5, nice and cheap only £156. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hello JeffP, spotted a four jaw self centring chuck on Ebay for the Emco compact 5, nice and cheap only £156. OzzyO. Hmmm. Do I continue with the Emco, now I've got it going OK, or do I sell it on and use the funds towards a nice Myford ML7, or Super 7? Reason: parts for the Emco are VERY rare and VERY VERY expensive compared to those for Myfords etc. Thanks for the idea Miss Prism, saves me making another ten L-shaped bits...... I assume I simply set the height of the brass rods at normal height minus the deflection I expect to get? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I assume I simply set the height of the brass rods at normal height minus the deflection I expect to get? The dimension you want Jeff is that between the axle datum line and the centreline datum of the brass rods: Your x is 7.9/2, your deflection is say 0.95, your b is say 1.5. So, (7.9/2) + y - 0.95 + (1.5/2) = 3.75 + y Factor in half the thickness of the beam (0.2) and let's call it approximately 4 + y Clamp the inner tender frame sides together to drill the brass rod holes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hello all, why do computer key boards not have a divide symbol on them? That is a dot above a line and a dot below it? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 why do computer key boards not have a divide symbol on them? That is a dot above a line and a dot below it?What, like this ÷? It's an historical legacy and you can probably blame it on IBM for not including it in their EBCDIC character encoding (the E stands for "Extended", so earlier ones were even worse). Ever since, we have been accustomed to use the slash symbol so that a/b is read as 'a over b'. How big would your keyboard be if it included all the symbols that folk would think useful? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks Miss Prism. I went to make a real start this afternoon, and first off got bogged down tidying the work area, then noticed that the next door neighbour was having work done on his gutters, so went out to get the blokes to repair mine while they were in the area. At least I now have a tidy table to work at/on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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